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Posted: 2/7/2017 8:45:16 AM EDT
Maybe this is a silly question, but should my lubrication (Slip ELW 2000) dry up on the BCG so fast ? I can clean and lubricate my AR, and go to the range a week or so later and the BCG would be practically dry and I would get some FTE's, etc. Maybe I am just used to grease on my other rifles, like the Garand, that just stays there forever, but is this normal ? Or maybe my rifles are just stored in a place that causes this to happen ? I usually just have to re lube my AR's before taking them to the range...
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normal for most oils.
if you want to use grease on your AR try tw-25b or equiv. |
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Try Lucas Gun Oil. Sticks around really well. Not too expensive.
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Maybe this is a silly question, but should my lubrication (Slip ELW 2000) dry up on the BCG so fast ? I can clean and lubricate my AR, and go to the range a week or so later and the BCG would be practically dry and I would get some FTE's, etc. Maybe I am just used to grease on my other rifles, like the Garand, that just stays there forever, but is this normal ? Or maybe my rifles are just stored in a place that causes this to happen ? I usually just have to re lube my AR's before taking them to the range... View Quote Interesting that you have this issue. I use Slip 2000EWL and have not had this issue. I clean and lube after each range trip. Sometimes the guns sit for a month or three before shooting again. They are still wet when I use them. |
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Forget all the snake oil lubes, go with Mobil 1 and forget it.
V |
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Forget all the snake oil lubes, go with Mobil 1 and forget it. V View Quote This. Many "gun oil's" have a cleaner in it (that's why it dries up faster, cleaners evaporate). It's just a machine, not a magical unicorn. Machines run great with synthetic motor oil, so will your AR (and the oil will last a lot longer as well, not even to mention HELL of a lot cheaper). Oh, I know.... someone will chime in and say "well CLP's are good enough for the military!", to which I say "so is GI issue underware. Do you still wear those too?". Point being, as a civi you are not under the rule of a beancounter telling you what to use (as in the 3-for-1 use cleaner/lube/protectant "CLP" type junk). Now, I don't know if EWL is a CLP (no experience with it), I'm just saying that a proper oil's sole purpose is to provide lubricity... and THAT'S the kind you want (not a "do all" wonder junk product). |
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What you seek is grease, OP. Whatever petrol company you prefer will do. Grab some axle/bearing grease and call it a day. Apply somewhat sparingly, gobs are unnecessary.
I recommend that you still use some form of rust protection on the non-contact portions of the carrier. The grease will do, but I find it messy, so I swab some CLP on these bits, just enough to give it the moist look. While grease would still perform in this situation, I find it personally annoying to have the grease all over, user problem, not the product. As others have stated, it's not a magical device, it's a rifle, a basic machine. Snake oil is not necessary. |
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Interesting that you have this issue. I use Slip 2000EWL and have not had this issue. I clean and lube after each range trip. Sometimes the guns sit for a month or three before shooting again. They are still wet when I use them. View Quote Wow. Not for me. I had a spare BCG that was cleaned and lubed and sat on a shelf for about a month. A month later it was bone dry and that was with using the Slip 2000. No lube anywhere. Perhaps where I store my firearms in my basement is just very dry and it evaporates much quicker ? |
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I've been using Slip 2000 EWL and also notice my bolts/carriers dry out.
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I've been using Slip 2000 EWL and also notice my bolts/carriers dry out. View Quote I usually put them away fairly wet. I will do a long term test to see if I can confirm the evaporation. If more than one person has this result I am sure it is happening. I plan to switch to synthetic motor oil when my Slip2000EWL runs out. I can get quarts of it for free. |
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You may not like motor oil either. I know a lot of people use it, but it's designed to be runny and not stay put, which is pretty much the opposite of what you want in a firearm lubricant. Even if it's free, I would use something else.
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I posted this in another thread. Surprised no one else has mentioned it.
Wilson Combat lube They have different ones for different needs, but the universal one is what I've been using. Doesn't seem to evaporate much and stays put. |
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You may not like motor oil either. I know a lot of people use it, but it's designed to be runny and not stay put, which is pretty much the opposite of what you want in a firearm lubricant. Even if it's free, I would use something else. View Quote I am planning to test motor oil soon. I will run it in one gun and see. If it works then I will switch. So far I am happy with Slip2000EWL. In my bolt guns I run whatever gun oil I have laying around. I have a bunch of small bottles that I have collected over the years. I will do a long term test with Slip2000EWL. I will lube and let sit for 6-8 months one AR to see what happens. |
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I agree that tw25 will work but be sure to lube only the contact point. Dot size with a small brush to spread it on the rails. Shot 100s of rounds per session without failure well past any lube I used. Had weapons in storage for a year and it still as fresh as the day it was applied.
As for oil, storage will cause it to migrate into other areas. However even when it looks "dry" the lube is still there. So I wouldn't really stress it. Slip also has grease and the thicker 30 weight oil. I think it's called slip ewl-30 that acts like lsa, similar to motor oil. If you liked your slip2000 try their other products. Edit: I would just use whatever grease you used from your m1 to your ar15. Back when I was el cheapo I would just used automotive grease that I got from my garage, and the only gun care specific was #9. The only gun specific safe product that comes close is milcomm products specifically the tw25. |
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Maybe this is a silly question, but should my lubrication (Slip ELW 2000) dry up on the BCG so fast ? I can clean and lubricate my AR, and go to the range a week or so later and the BCG would be practically dry and I would get some FTE's, etc. Maybe I am just used to grease on my other rifles, like the Garand, that just stays there forever, but is this normal ? Or maybe my rifles are just stored in a place that causes this to happen ? I usually just have to re lube my AR's before taking them to the range... View Quote If you have any you can try, try some LSA. I can clean a rifle, put some LSA on the bcg and throw it in the safe. Come back a week later and it's still on the bcg, doesn't run much. http://surplustodayonline.com/2012/10/23/lsa-still-a-great-gun-oil/ Quarts are pretty inexpensive, the 4oz bottle prices are nuts in most places. In searching, I see Sarco has a qt for ten bucks. And it may not much so much as your lube is drying out, it's probably migrating.... I have some synthetic 20w-50 motor oil that is close I use at range, but it still is thinner than the old LSA. I'd stay away from the grease..... jmho |
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Engine assembly lube you use to assemble pistons and cams etc. It's not grease but it's not oil it's that thick oil in between. The Lucas brand is really nice as well. I put that on my BCG go to the range or let it sit for months it's still oily. Wipes right off as well with the carbon.
If using a heavy oil lube very thin go sparingly don't want to end up with a ton of that stuff floating around everywhere. It's tacky and doesn't run when cold Everyone has there preference and favorite, but this has worked well for me lately. |
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OP, if you're a Slip fan, consider the EWL30 - it stays where you put it and doesn't run. For grease, I've had good luck with Super Lube as well.
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I think there is some confusion with motor oil. If you use a synthetic motor oil, yes... it will run. However, the coating is still there and won't go anywhere. If you use a CLP type of "oil"... it WILL evaporate and will NOT be there (no coating) over time. Running isn't the issue. The issue is: is any coating/lube left behind. Synthetic (such as Mobile 1)- YES. CLP type - very little over time.
I wouldn't use CLP's if you gave it to me for free. Synthetic motor oil is the only thing I'll use in my AR's (and yes, I've tried synthetic grease such as Lithium and it was disastrous for me. Never again). It's your rifle, and you run what you want (you'll be fine with anything, so long as you maintain properly), but everyone will have their different views on "best" for them. |
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I think there is some confusion with motor oil. If you use a synthetic motor oil, yes... it will run. However, the coating is still there and won't go anywhere. If you use a CLP type of "oil"... it WILL evaporate and will NOT be there (no coating) over time. Running isn't the issue. The issue is: is any coating/lube left behind. Synthetic (such as Mobile 1)- YES. CLP type - very little over time. I wouldn't use CLP's if you gave it to me for free. Synthetic motor oil is the only thing I'll use in my AR's (and yes, I've tried synthetic grease such as Lithium and it was disastrous for me. Never again). It's your rifle, and you run what you want (you'll be fine with anything, so long as you maintain properly), but everyone will have their different views on "best" for them. View Quote I've noticed that it takes quite a while, about 2 or 3 months for clp to dry, and another month or 2 for any rust to form on QPQ finishes like your standard m16 sitting on the rack. Cheap bluing like on a m9 takes 2 or 3 months to rust even with clp. M9 barrels will rust in about 2 days with no oil. This observation has occurred in one of the largest armories in 1st mardiv. The neat thing about clp being such a low viscosity, it that you don't have to be perfect with covering the parts, it will migrate if you lay it on thick. It also seems to soak into the metal a bit. Example, I cleaned my rifle in October after range. Haven't touched it since, pulled it out of the armory and went to the field for a week. The clp had dried up and had some dirt held on after a week, but no rust. Personally I like to use CLP as a protectant, as I know it only lasts so long. This forces my hand to pull the gun out every 2 months and wipe them down and function check. IMO that works better than finding out the hard way that my coating which was supposed to last 2 years only made it 6 months... |
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15w40 has been working for me for years on shotguns, lever actions, pistols and rifles (full auto and semi).
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I've been using tw 25 for a couple weeks now. I don't know what rca uses to coat their bcgs but combined with the tw 25 everything literally wipes right off. Thing stays feeling slick. Feels dry to to the touch but it definitely isn't. Stuff even stopped wear on my raptor charging handle. I've owned a couple mur uppers and raptors have always been tight in them but this stuff aopvesthe issue for me.
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For what it worth we used it in the 20 MM Gatling guns in the Air Force on fighters and it stayed put.
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I picked up some Slip EWL30 on Amazon. I shot a 100 + rounds out of my AR yesterday that was lubricated with it and I was impressed. The EWL30 was still there on the bolt. With my regular Slip 2000 or Hoppes, much of the lube would have came off after that many rounds.
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I have just started using this stuff pictured below. It is really pretty nice, but I haven't shot more than 500 rounds without cleaning. After about 500 rounds, the grease is pretty much gone, but the action is still decently smooth. The Bolt/BCG isn't fouled up as bad as when using Mobil 1 or Slip2000 EWL. I've used this Go-Juice grease pretty sparingly on the rails and cam pin and bolt. I think I'll use a bit more on the rails and see how that goes. So far, I like this stuff better than anything I've used in the past and I have tried a lot of "snake oil" - wasted money. This time I think I finally found something I can stick with.
ETA: Bill Geissele made up that "staynacity" word on the label, referring to the grease's tenacity to stay on the greased parts. I believe it does stay on the parts pretty damn well. Attached File |
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Just an update. I got some Slip EWL30 and after a range session of around 100 rounds the grease was still there and no FTE's or jams. A few days later I shot another 100 rounds, no jams. A few days after that I went to the range again, and the BCG was seemed pretty dry and every other round would give me a FTE. I took the BCG out, dabbed some SLIP 2000 on it and all was good for the rest of the session. I read other posts on here about people going thousands or rounds without any cleaning or lubing, yet this 14.5 middy can't go more than 200 rounds over the course of a week ? I would normally clean my AR's after a range session anyway, but I wanted to see how long it would last without doing that. And with this particular AR, not very long it seems...
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Weird, I switched to Slip2000 precisely because it does not dry up after only a week and the others did. Maybe EWL is different.
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Forget all the snake oil lubes, go with Mobil 1 and forget it. V View Quote After a decade of shooting AR's, I finally tried this. I have to agree. Regular 10-30w Mobil 1 that I have on the shelf in the garage works really well. It stays wet longer, and it does not appear to be collecting carbon/dirt while in use. Given that a quart is ~$6, it's a much better deal that most of the dedicated gun lubes. |
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I'm also among those who use and advocate synthetic motor oil. It stays on the BCG longer. But, I use diesel synthetic Shell Rotella T-6 5w40.
Our direct impingement actions run very dirty with a lot of carbon byproduct much like a turbo diesel engine The T-6 diesel formulation detergents do a really good job of keeping the carbon in suspension rather than sticking to the BCG, chamber or inside of the upper receiver. Give it a try. |
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Guess I should buy a lottery ticket cuz I must be lucky.
I use CLP on my guns after they get cleaned and sometimes they sit for 1-2 months before being shot and when I take them out again they're good for 300+ rounds easy. You can see the metal is impregnated with lube. I have Slip 2000, S2K EWL, S2K EWL30, M-pro 7 LPX, Remoil, Rand CLP, Sprinco Machine Gunners lube, Tetra and several others I can't even remember. I'm over the wonder lube stuff. I'm only using Break Free going forward. Motor oil is a good candidate but can't clean. I do have a quart of royal purple 30W I think that is backup. It works well as a lube. |
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I have been using brake parts cleaner and rubbing alcohol for years with great results. Majority of the time the break cleaner works great by itself. TW-25B is a great grease. I recently started using synthetic motor oil for the AR, seems to work great so far. I like its thickness and how slick it spread over everything for a thin but "wet" looking coat on application areas. I haven't shot the rifle with it yet but looking forward to it. My hope is the oil will grab the particulates which can be easily wiped off opposed to getting caked on a typical black phosphorus bolt. I have another BCG that is chrome plated, and even without lube nothing sticks to it.
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I wouldn't use grease. I got an AK to quit running by putting grease in it! I use ATF. The cheap stuff that says "dex/Merc".
Grease is thick and gets thicker and holds crud. Makes your gun sluggish. ATF seems to sort of be self cleaning, I've heard it has a lot of detergent in it. It'll also stay wet for several range sessions. I used Clp and I noticed I could have the gun sopping wet and maybe 1 mag dump later the barrel and bcg had that charred grey dry look to it. |
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I have noticed that sometimes my gun is not as wet as I would expect and I use mpro7. Have no complaints with it and never had any issues with function,but I do notice the parts being more dry after a month or two of storage.
I'm starting to lean toward trying motor oil as well since I have been seeing good things about this. Is there any need to add any protectant or concerns with rust using motor oil? |
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Time to really SF the discussion, but many have suggested Mobil One syn oil, I personally use.
MO Gear lube |
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