I'm building a dedicated 22 upper I expect to see high round counts. Currently I use Gunslick Pro foaming bore cleaner in my 5.56 and 300Blk. Then after bronze brushing out the foam I dry patch it. Then patch it again with Eds Red and dry patch again.
    My question...is the Gunslick foaming cleaner also effective for lead fouling? Or what is a really good lead fouling cleaner?

http://riflebarrels.com/support/22-rimfire-maintenance/

Kroil, let it sit in the barrel 5 to 10 min. It takes the lead out in sheets. I have used it for years. High power shooters also use it, google it up.

Thanks Pat, I ran into that suggestion doing a google search. I will keep it in mind.

It's the best thing to use. It really is amazing to see how it removes lead fouling.

Just run a Kroil soaked patch through the bore? Or do I have to fill up the bore?

Thanks,
Rick R

From what I can tell others are doing to get the lead out is plugging the bore and filling it up and letting sit for a day or two.

Not that long at all.

First try just running Kroil soaked patches through. Do it several times over a couple of hours. Then dry patches. A brush if you want. You'll be amazed at the lead that comes out.

If the fouling is bad then plug the bore and fill up with Kroil and let it sit for a day.

Kroil is amazing stuff.

The Oil That Creeps isn't just a slogan.

Here is how i have been doing it for 15 years now. Put a dripping wet patch with Kroil down the barrel, let it set horizontal on the work bench 5 to 10 minutes. Put a patch on a jag and run it thru the barrel, you will get sheets of lead coming out. repeat as many times as you need to do it. If it is real bad put J.B. bore paste on a Kroil soaked patch, push it thru. Then i put a dry patch on a bore brush, an push that thru the barrel to get rid of the J.B. bore paste. Do that until clean patch comes out (4 to 8 times). Then i spray non-chlorinated brake cleaner down the barrel and dry patch it. Generic brake cleaner $3.69, GunScrubber $12.00, your choice, your money. The brake cleaner removes all lube, you MUST relupe. If you need to soak a barrel for 24 hrs with Kroil with plugs in the barrel, you really neglected you firearm and maybe should take up golf instead. JMHO

Scrubbing the bore of a .22LR is counterproductive. Don't clean the bore until accuracy begins to suffer. Benchrest shooters run many thousands of rounds before scrubbing the bore......and then run hundreds of rounds through that gun before using it again in competition.

Visit Rimfire Central.

I mean I'm not saying you're wrong or anything but following the path of "pros" without actually being one is just an excuse not to take care of your stuff. I think you should take care of your stuff as you please, and nevermind what pros do. They also get sponsors and tons of money invested in their hobby. So that 1000s of round count barrel is probably their 20th barrel they're breaking in. For normal folks, we get a single fire arm and that single fire arm is all we're going to use for the remainder of our lives.

Don't know how folks are getting "sheets of lead" from a rimfire barrel?
All rimfire ammo I know of has a wax or oil lube , speed is fairly slow and with so little powder you are not getting much in the way of temperature

I go with the less is more method , never had much in the way of build up .

My feeling is hit the barrel a couple of passes with a dry brass brush , then a couple of solvent patches and take a peek. If it looks ok send down a oil patch to head off rust .

The high end competition barrel like a Anschutz really shouldn't be cleaned much . It has been highly polished

I don't know what it is about 22 LR, but lead round nose bullets do lead barrels.  On the preventative side, shoot plated ammo.

I have the conversion kit and yes, I shoot Federal Automatch and they're lead. Usually after a shooting session, I shoot a few .223 rounds through the barrel. It should, in theory, blast out all the lead build up.