Hey all I have been thinking about using froglube but wanted to get some opinions.  I have seen some mixed reviews in particular froglube freezing.  Also seen some (very little) recommendation for slip 2000.

Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Mobil 1 and Slip 2k are excellent choices.

So I tested froglube for two years, on a 1911, a CZ and a couple ARs.   Really the first year was just on the CZ, and it worked so well I stripped all petrochemical lubes from the others and started using it on them.

Everything worked well, till two years in.  I had my EDC out for some range time, a 1911, pulled the trigger and got a click.  With my carry ammo.  Ejected the round, it had a small dimple on the primer.  Chambered the next round, same click.  This was with a gun and ammo I need to go bang when needed, not click.

After rechambering the rounds and dropping the hammer repeatedly I got a bang, got a few more to fire then it ran fine.   Seemed to need to warm up.   Tore the gun down, stripped all the froglube and relubed with clp and it ran fine.    When I got home, I checked another froglube gun in the safe that hadn't been shot in months, seemed sluggish too.  This was in summertime temps.

Stripped all the froglube guns and only use that shit for door hinges now.

I really wanted to like it.  No bad odor, non toxic, blah blah blah.  Sent froglube an email about this, asking if it could go bad.  They said it wouldn't , didn't offer to replace it, nor could I ever trust it again.    Back to petrochemical stinky lube and loving guns goin bang.  I am just gonna transition to Mobil 1 though.

IF you go with FL, strip everything bare, apply fl and wipe off excess.  But I'll never use it again.

I love the stuff. I've had it on all my guns now for about a year now. Haven't had any freezing issues, and it seems like all my guns move a lot smoother. I will say the cleaner is amazing stuff too. I never thought it worked at all until i tried it on the piston for my Beretta A300. It's been dirty since the day I bought it. Everything I tried would not clean it. Figured what the hell and threw some of the degreaser (or whatever it's called) and it looks brand new again!

Plant based oils tend to oxidize and leave a gummy mess over time. Heat can accelerate this.

Would recommend a petro based lube over a plant based lube.  Take your pick there are dozens of great lubes out there.

I've used Breakfree CLP, Mobil 1, FP-10, and MPro7 all with excellent results.

Seems to work where you can wipe nearly all of it off, leaving a near invisible film.

If you leave an intact drop anywhere in about six months you have a thick, brownish goop.  A lot like cosmoline in consistency.  No rust inside that goop, again, like cosmoline.

The goop is in no way a lubricant and will gum up any moving parts it has formed on.

Considering the number of parts that need lubricant and cannot easily be detail stripped to remove all but the thinnest film, I stopped using it.

I've still to find a CLP product where C = L = P.  Best I've found is pick two.

Froglube does seem to work best if you're constantly reapplying it and flushing out the old stuff.

Using a dedicated solvent for cleaning and a dedicated lubricant for lube and protection works best for me.  Shooter's Choise and LSA are my preference.

I'm also seeing if Clenzoil works well.  Jury is still out as the test is still young.

I wouldn't use it.

+1 to the slp2000, love that stuff

One try.......the rest of the bottle was used  to oil the tracks on my garage door.....

Frog lube starts out good and then turns to crap. I use Slip 2000 EWL and never ever an issue

My son and I personally had FrogLube turn into adhesive and make an M&P Shield and 2 ARs completely non-functional.

I wiped the BCG with a patch and the cotton fibers stuck to the BCG like it had glue on it. Neither would chamber a round, not even by hand.

The Shield was stove piping almost every round.

I stopped using it completely.

If you put it on and shoot it it seems to work fine. If you put it on and let it sit in a safe for a while, it turns sticky.

SLIP 2000 if I buy gun lube.

I mostly use Shell Rotella synthetic 5w-40 now and it has worked great. I drain the remainder from gallon jugs after changing the oil in ATV's, Cummins and John Deere diesels. Its amazing how much "extra" oil there is in a gallon jug after you set it in the hot afternoon sun for an hour. I've probably got an extra pint of this oil now, which should be a lifetime supply.??

G96 Gun Treatment.  Leaves a film like WD40 when it does dry and never gets bare spots unlike WD40.
I put it on all my guns and use liberally as a cleaner.  
Also doesn't harm finished wood like some solvents.
I left a couple guns at home durring a 3 year tour in GE and they were fine when I got back.

I have been using SLip2000EWL for a couple years now. I am very happy with it. It does not burn off, doesn't evaporate and carbon seems to clean off better than with the sample oils I was using.

I am thinking of trying synthetic motor oil as many use it with great results.

Garbage.

Another vote for slip 2000 regular or the EWL. I used froglube for a while and it worked fine in FL but I tried to use it in the middle of winter in MI and it gummed up and made my rifle non-functional. It made the BCG barely move in the upper and wouldn't allow the BCG to travel far enough back to pick up the next round. I had to stripped it all off with brake clean and use valvoline the rest of the day. I won't be using it again and don't recommend it to anyone anymore.

I personally have no experience with froglube but I can tell you I know a few people who have locked up their AR's using it.
I use Slip2000 EWL or Mobile 1 5w-40 diesel oil. Both work awesome and have had 0 issues.

Thanks for the feedback everyone.  Based on it I ordered EWL and 725 gun cleaner from local distributor of slip2000 today.

You won't be disappointed with Slip 2K.  

I have been using EWL for a few years and have not had any issues.  Slip 2K EWL is all I use now.  I used Frog lube once and it got sticky after a month.

They'll take you a long ways.

I'm pretty sure that's where it came from...

Slip is the better product unless you do very high volume (think range rental) and have some sort of allergy or customers really dig the smell of one over the other or something. Regardless I would not use frog lube unless I was breaking the weapons down and thoroughly cleaning them weekly at a minimum.

I had been using Froglube for well into 2 years. If you follow the instructions on it, you'll find that it works wonderfully. The trick is you put it on everywhere, heat it up, wait for about an hour, and then come back and wipe everything off with a microfiber towel.

The problems aren't apparent at first. If you happen to miss a spot in wiping, you'll leave some residue behind. This is fine for the short term but if you put it in storage, for say a few weeks or a few months, and come back to find a solidly locked up gun that feels like glue was put on it.

I moved on to Slip2000 myself but I really, really, really like the Milcomm grease and oil. Best stuff I ever used. My only requirement was that it was bio safe to use and that it doesn't contain any harmful fluid.

You can use Froglube, but just remember not to have any residue behind. If you clean your guns often, I believe Froglube will work great.

If you're breaking the gun down and cleaning it all the time, any lube will work.

That's a not a good testament to a lube, IMO.

I used FL for a while on 2x guns.  Had issues with both; no longer use it

I didn't have any issues that I attribute directly to it.

Yes it gums up. Take your AR to the range and go through 8 more mags of wolf and now its smelly goop.

The main reason I don't think I'll buy it again is the cost.

Really.  He is correct.

I've been using Froglube paste and liquid on my guns for years with no issues. I have not seen any of this sticky behavior, nothing gets stuck, it stays where I put it, and it has worked great for me. I only clean my carry gun often. All the others still work fine after sitting around for months.

Obviously, not everyone else has had such luck. Unless there's some specific quality Froglube has that you need (non-toxic, corrosion resistance, etc) there are other good products out there without such drastically mixed reviews.

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Best lube available.


Put it on the carrier rails, cam pin, bolt support ring, and the rear of the bolt lugs(tiny bit).

I heard a lot of folks say this. My experience is that if you wipe it off, the more you can wipe off, the better, and better it gets.

However, I think it has everything to do with where you live. It appears if you live in less humid areas, Froglube appears to work phenomenally while living in humid or very cold (or very hot) places cause any residue Froglube to lock the gun up or behave like glue if you store it for a while (until you can heat it again or clean it off with Froglube solvent).

Do you live in a dry, desert place?

Here in VA we have pretty muggy summers and I never had any moving parts lock up. My experience has been that a little bit goes a long way. But as I said earlier,I can't personally justify paying that much for a AR lubricant.

Ironically there is a thread about the guy writes this blog in GD right now. I guess that he is being sued by Fireclean for second time. He might also be a member here, or was at some point.

This same guy took Froglube, SEAL1 another general puropse lube called TrackLube to a lab for comparative analysis.

http://www.vuurwapenblog.com/general-opinion/lies-errors-and-omissions/froglube-tracklube-and-seal1-laboratory-analysis/

Hey I live in VA too and yes it looks up badly here unless I completely wipe it off. I'm talking scrubbing, cotton ball, and every nook and cranny to get off anything excess or else it'll lock up after a while in storage.

I guess I was wrong about my analysis.

I have used Frog Lube on two handguns for 2 yrs with no issues. The only reason I don't use it in my AR is because I use more Oil than anything, and you don't want to mix the two together.
I live in Florida (Central Florida) and it gets super hot and humid, and I have never seen Frog Lube turn into a glue, or get hard enough to lock any action on my handguns. I also have never seen it mold as other have reported. And my container of it is from 2012.
I exclusively used the Paste only, and installed per instructed, and make sure that when finished applying, to wipe down my metal surfaces with the microfiber cloth and you can not see any material (Frog Lube) on the slide or barrel, but can feel it. Now this I am sure can concern some people not being able to see any product on their gun and I can see them using it excessively and it going everywhere.  Even in the dry state (wiped off) the gun will still sweat this stuff, so a little goes a long way.  Even when it is sweating, it is NOT running all over the gun. If it is, you are using too much.  There is no way it's traveling from the rails on my Glock, UP into the striker channel, or from the Top of the Slide, down into the Striker channel. It just wont happen. Is it possible? Yes if you apply too much and sling the gun around after shooting or stand it up on top if it's slide, and that is even a maybe.  When applied right, the liquid stays where it's applied. It doesn't turn to water and drip everywhere.
Now is it a pain in the ass to use Frog Lube to start with, and to only use it exclusively on a gun?  Yes.    
When I first started my collection I researched lubes and protectants, this came in with great rust protection in some backyard tests.  I used to love the "hobby" of cleaning my guns.. but as years get on, I see it as a evil necessity.  
At some point I will strip the Frog Lube off and start using my other oils, on my 1911 and Glock.  I have a collection of lubes and greases that I purchased, but have passed that phase of worry to death over my gun's finish.

Other lubes similar to Frog Lube that I have also tried and have had success with are: (Paste Version Only)
Seal 1 + CLP
Grizzly Grease
From my own experience, the Seal 1 + and Grizzly Grease liquify in much lower temperature than Frog Lube.  But all are the same or similar in make up.  Firm in 75F but liquefy in warmer temps.
I can rub Frog Lube in between my fingers a little longer before it starts to melt, vs  Seal 1 and Grizzly Grease.  I think Seal 1 and Grizzly have more "oil" makeup in them.,

TLDR:   Frog Lube gets a bad rap, I think people either: use way too much, don't use a degreaser before applying, or mix other oils/grease with it.  I've never had an action "lock up" or seen it become glue, and I have owned the paste now since Jan 2012, works the same as I bought it day one. I like the rust protection it provides on the Exterior of my weapons, especially in a hot, humid trunk on rainy Florida 100'F days.

eh' anyway - my 2 cents  AND = This thread made me pull my 1911 outta the safe, (7months in storage on the rack) and there is no sign of "firmness/drag", lockup, mold or anything like that, it looks and the action moves just like it did 7 months ago when I put it in there.

My personal theory is that people inadvertently mix Froglube with whatever lube/cleaner was previously on the gun. Some common combination probably causes the stickiness.

To whoever wanted to know my environment, I've done Southern AZ (hot and dry), MD eastern shore (hot and humid), and Ohio during the winter. Have not noticed any relationship between my environment and Froglube's performance.

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It's kind of tough to argue that Froglube's failure is due to the end user, especially when the end user followed instructions. I've been using froglube exclusively for nearly 2 years and found that it is excellent but turn into gum after a while. No other lubrication was used during this time frame as per the instructions.

With that said, I find it a weak argument that you shouldn't use different chemicals. Froglube wants to enter the military service where there's no telling what sort of lubrication a typical soldier could use. If CLP left over from previous usage affects Froglube, then what value would that have?

I can pretty much mix any combination of Slip2000 with any combination of anything else with no ill effect. Either mixing with other greases or chemical, any other product will never turn into glue like state. The only other chemical I know of that turns into glue would be cosmoline but you want it to do that.

Put some in a small glass (shot glasses work), and set it in your gunsafe. Maybe 3-5 drops equivalent in liquid form. Wait a few months. You'll see what the rest of us are seeing. I have done this with every plant-based lubricant out there, and so far the only one that impresses me is ALG Go-Juice. I have had it in its shot glass for almost 6 months, now, and it has evaporated down and thickened some, but the main thing that impresses me is that there is ZERO hint of tackiness/stickiness to it. It is still slick just like it was when it was new, it's just a higher viscosity.

Why use a product that has such mixed reviews, the majority of which are bad?

From my reading this thread and others over the years it appears you must apply Frog Lube perfectly for good results. If you screw up a little bit it fails. Why use such a product?

Most of us here are not depending on our guns to stay alive so if it gums up it is only a nuisance. What if you did need a gun for survival? Would you still use Frog Lube?

There are so many great products that don't require such detailed application and have only great reviews. Some are even much less costly.

To each his own but for me I rather use something that works no matter what, like oil.

Guess what ? I was excited and hyped up about the frog lube. Ordered a bottle and put it on my EDC and AR (big mistake). After a few weeks I went to range and guess what ? Click and no bang, both the guns. It was a sinking feeling cause if your edc does click instead of bang you are fucked.

Came back home and cleaned both the guns and this time used regular gun oil and went back to range and gun was normal and going bang. I threw that shit away immediately.

Boom. Headshot. This guy gets it.

I'm not going to trash frog lube, as I've never used it, because of the above. Best of luck to you guys that do use it. I do like the selling point that it's non-toxic. I get exposed to enough POL at work.

Hydrophobic grease for me. Generic walmart for <$5/tube (grease gun size). I've used maybe 1 cup (like your kitchen measuring cup) in 2 years between 7 guns, 2-3 getting shot and cleaned every other week.

I even got my glock soaked a few different times with fresh water. Only thing that made it noticeable after drying out was the little pin on the trigger rusted some. No big deal.

Not sure why try to reinvent the wheel. The auto industry has had it down for a while. Buy a quart of Mobil 1 for $7 or so and you will be fine for a long time.

I use it for my sliding glass door tracks and that's it.

Tracklube!

I still use Breakfree CLP here.... don't see any reason to change.  My shit works.

Applied it properly and after a while it turned into a gummy mess.  Stopped using it.

I read a about it and went ahead and used it, after a few months I just looked at the AR it was on, gooey.  Now I only use it on my hunting/back pack knives.  Warm them up and it seems to work on them, thought they don't have any moving parts.

Slip 2k all the way. Ran froglube for about a year and was less then impressed. Seems if you leave it on and don't use for an extended period of time, it gels up. Case in point right here https://www.instagram.com/p/BNVs5TehUPO/

Mpro 7 and Ed's red for general cleaning.

Mobile 1 for lube.

WD40 specialist corrosion inhibitor for long term storage.

ETA: The only thing I would consider using frog lube for would be as a corrosion inhibitor, but the wd40 specialist spray can is just plain easier to use.

Had the same issue as everyone else with it gumming up after a year or so.  Switched back to a 50/50 mix of Mobil 1/ATF (I'll also throw some Breakfree CLP and Slip2K EWL in the mix occasionally) and I've never had an issue.  Never buying into the bullshit snake oil stuff again.

I found a good use for my froglube.  Door hinges and the 6 long bolts on my Christmas tree stand.   Doors work great and the long bolts turn with ease.

I followed the instructions precisely and it did not work well for me, it made my Sig feel all gummy to the point where the slide would stay open without the catch holding it.

 

If I were OP, by now I would be purchasing something else and running far far away from FL.

There was a video a while back where someone at one of the conventions, i.e. shot show? NRA convention? I don't remember, but someone approached the owner and asked them what to do in freezing conditions and he pulled out the FL solvent bottle sprayed down the BCG and wiped everything off and said that is what you do with FL in freezing conditions or to prevent it from gumming up.

I'm thinking really dude?

Like I said before it works really good for my sliding glass door tracks.

I am wondering though when they are going to gum up  and I won't be able to get them to slide open