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Posted: 7/22/2015 5:35:50 PM EDT
[#1]
you don't put anything on the exterior of the barrel.
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Posted: 7/22/2015 5:58:33 PM EDT
[#2]
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Posted: 7/22/2015 6:23:22 PM EDT
[#3]
I mean for corrosion protection. Obviously you don't lubricate a barrel.
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Posted: 7/22/2015 7:25:41 PM EDT
[#4]
There are high temp lubricants that will stay put, but there's a difference between a lubricant and a rust protection product.
Some high temp lubes offer no rust protection. I just apply a light coat of CLP Breakfree to the steel parts on my AR, including the barrel. It gets hot and smokes very little, but CLP is good up to at least 450 degrees. Unless you have a really cheap AR the barrel is coated with a phosphate protective coating specifically designed to prevent rust, all you really need to do is after shooting is to allow the barrel to cool, then apply a little more CLP. Personally, I keep a clean, soft toothbrush handy with a few drops of CLP on it. After shooting or a lot of handling I "scrub" the steel parts to leave a thin coat of CLP on it. CLP Breakfree is one of the top rust preventing lubes, and since the military use a CLP and don't get rusty rifles I figure I'm good to go. |
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Posted: 7/22/2015 7:32:59 PM EDT
[#5]
I may do a slight rub down during my yearly breakdown inspection, but it's not needed for corrosion prevention. You could always get a nitride barrel. Been looking at them myself. In west Texas I keep the exterior of my rifles as dry as possible. Lots of dust.
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Posted: 7/22/2015 7:34:05 PM EDT
[#6]
And no, don't paint it. Even with the high temp stuff , discoloration will occur.
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Posted: 7/22/2015 7:36:45 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I mean for corrosion protection. Obviously you don't lubricate a barrel. |
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Posted: 7/22/2015 9:07:39 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
you don't put anything on the exterior of the barrel. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I mean for corrosion protection. Obviously you don't lubricate a barrel. A large part of the corrosion resistance of parkerizing is the fact that the porosity of it helps absorb oil as a barrier to moisture. |
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Posted: 7/22/2015 9:08:59 PM EDT
[#9]
I may try the CLP. I don't have any already because there's a lot of better lubes on the market.
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Posted: 7/24/2015 2:05:26 PM EDT
[#10]
I use FrogLube CLP paste on my barrel exteriors. It pretty much sticks where you put it and doesn't evaporate or burn off like other CLP's I have used YMMV.
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Posted: 7/24/2015 10:12:36 PM EDT
[#11]
Fireclean honestly does a great job at preventing rust secondary to water and condensation exposure. Of all the CLP types I have tested, I think barrel exterior is a situation that it is well suited to due to its tenacity when I exposed it to months of the elements as well as its relatively high smoke point.
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Posted: 7/24/2015 10:14:17 PM EDT
[#12]
Fireclean honestly does a great job at preventing rust secondary to water and condensation exposure. Of all the CLP types I have tested, I think barrel exterior is a situation that it is well suited to due to its tenacity when I exposed it to months of the elements as well as its relatively high smoke point.
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Posted: 7/25/2015 3:36:49 AM EDT
[#13]
Whatever you put on it will likely burn off (CLP sucks, being one of the worst choices for such). Just get used to recoating it after every time you shoot (if phosphate outer). I only have ONE phosphate outer barrel (FN CHF/CL) and hate it for that reason (I use Eezox on it after ever range session). I much prefer nitride barrels which require ZERO maintenance. Phosphate is crap. It is a poor coating. It's porous to absorb oils to protect it, but burns it off quickly. Instead consider a coating or treatment (such as nitride) that does not require oil in the first place. Actually, if no nitride, Cerakote would be an excellent outer barrel coating.
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Posted: 7/25/2015 4:30:40 AM EDT
[#14]
my ar has been submerged several times, slept in the back of my truck for almost a year, and has shot several thousand rounds.
i live on the texas gulf coast if it won't rust in a place where EVERYTHING rusts, it wont rust anywhere else no need for extra corrosion resistance |
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Posted: 7/25/2015 1:38:52 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
my ar has been submerged several times, slept in the back of my truck for almost a year, and has shot several thousand rounds. i live on the texas gulf coast if it won't rust in a place where EVERYTHING rusts, it wont rust anywhere else no need for extra corrosion resistance This inspires confidence, thanks. |
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Posted: 7/26/2015 10:11:10 PM EDT
[#16]
And I've seen barrels rust from being dry in less humid places. If the finish gets scratched or worn it's bare steel.
High temp engine enamel works fine. The ceramic based (supposedly) exhaust and header paint is a pain to use since it has to be bake three times at a higher temp each time. And since the barrel of an AR isn't likely to get over 500 degrees the engine enamel is enough.Spray it and let it dry, then it will cure over the next couple range sessions. If you want something that can handle the higher temps, the high temp stuff used for like barbeques works well, but it takes about a week to air cure. |
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Posted: 7/27/2015 4:46:59 PM EDT
[#17]
Quoted:
you don't put anything on the exterior of the barrel. Why not? |
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Posted: 7/27/2015 4:50:53 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Why not? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
you don't put anything on the exterior of the barrel. Why not? It should probably read: "you don't need put anything on the exterior of the barrel." Pretty much any lubricant will burn off given the right firing rate.... |
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Posted: 7/27/2015 4:54:12 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
my ar has been submerged several times, slept in the back of my truck for almost a year, and has shot several thousand rounds. i live on the texas gulf coast if it won't rust in a place where EVERYTHING rusts, it wont rust anywhere else no need for extra corrosion resistance I live on the East coast of Florida and I have seen more than a few rusty guns including AR15's. I just got done putting a Colt back together after Cerakoting. It was Cerakoted due to the pitting on the exterior of the barrel from being neglected for several years. Tell me again how steel AR15 barrels are somehow impervious to rust. |
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Posted: 7/27/2015 4:57:05 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It should probably read: "you don't need put anything on the exterior of the barrel." Pretty much any lubricant will burn off given the right firing rate.... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
you don't put anything on the exterior of the barrel. Why not? It should probably read: "you don't need put anything on the exterior of the barrel." Pretty much any lubricant will burn off given the right firing rate.... Read my post above. If you plan to keep the barrel from developing surface rust that will eventually eat its way into the steel, you NEED to apply some type of oil to the exterior. Parkarizing helps to prevent rust, it does not eliminate it. Just because the oil burns off doesn't mean it should not be oiled. |
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Posted: 7/27/2015 7:50:52 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Read my post above. If you plan to keep the barrel from developing surface rust that will eventually eat its way into the steel, you NEED to apply some type of oil to the exterior. Parkarizing helps to prevent rust, it does not eliminate it. Just because the oil burns off doesn't mean it should not be oiled. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
you don't put anything on the exterior of the barrel. Why not? It should probably read: "you don't need put anything on the exterior of the barrel." Pretty much any lubricant will burn off given the right firing rate.... Read my post above. If you plan to keep the barrel from developing surface rust that will eventually eat its way into the steel, you NEED to apply some type of oil to the exterior. Parkarizing helps to prevent rust, it does not eliminate it. Just because the oil burns off doesn't mean it should not be oiled. Yes. That's why I was trying find a thicker/longer lasting oil/grease to use to minimize reapplication. I wanted to do that Moly Resin stuff, but I don't think it would stand up to the heat on a barrel. 
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Posted: 7/28/2015 12:34:16 PM EDT
[#22]
I am not aware of anything that will not burn off. Reapplication will be necessary with what ever you use.
Get a can of Safari Charlie or some other kind of spray oil with a straw to get under the hand guard. I usually spray the gun down and blow off the excess with my air compressor. |
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Posted: 7/28/2015 4:27:29 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I am not aware of anything that will not burn off. Reapplication will be necessary with what ever you use. Get a can of Safari Charlie or some other kind of spray oil with a straw to get under the hand guard. I usually spray the gun down and blow off the excess with my air compressor. Now there's an idea. Thanks. |
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Posted: 7/28/2015 4:28:17 PM EDT
[#24]
Does anyone know if Norrell's MolyResin would hold up to rapid semi-auto fire heat on a barrel?
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Posted: 8/3/2015 1:02:38 AM EDT
[#25]
Part of the reason most AR barrels are parkerized is to hold oil for corrosion protection. I use CLP for this and so does the military.
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Posted: 8/3/2015 6:44:19 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Does anyone know if Norrell's MolyResin would hold up to rapid semi-auto fire heat on a barrel? Oh I did a little odd ball treatment of Norrells to a way over heated knife blade at one time just messing around. While the color part of the paint did end up flaking, it never rusted as it was prior to the application, so that stuff does become part of the metal. Have shot some pistols treated with it to the point that you couldn't or wouldn't want to handle the business end of the slides and have seen no change. Would have no issue doing a barrel with it. |
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Posted: 8/3/2015 9:40:23 PM EDT
[#27]
Thanks.
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