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Link Posted: 4/30/2015 5:08:42 PM EDT
[#1]
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Quoted:

Ummmm are you serious?? It means he loves the way that oil works in his AR. Thought it was pretty clear myself.
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For a long time I used Pro Long. But it burns out real fast if used on the BCG. I just use it on the trigger systems now.

Quoted:
Take some Mobil 1, mix with synthetic ATF till red.


Isn't ALL tranny fluid synthetic?



You are correct, had synthetic on the brain.

Though I have recently started using Royal Purple 10w-30 for my AR and am loving it. I want to get some Royal Purple ATF to mix it as I try to avoid mixing different brands.


What does this even MEAN?


Ummmm are you serious?? It means he loves the way that oil works in his AR. Thought it was pretty clear myself.


Pretty much what I meant. So far it performs well, and at $7 per 1qt it equals $240 worth of fireclean and so far it performs just as good.

It also has the benefit of not having the smell associated with Mobil 1 Synthetics that can be overpowering in close confines. Royal Purple has a very mild fragrance that is hardly noticeable. It is also hardly hazardous, worst that can happen is you get diarrhea if you ingest it.
Link Posted: 4/30/2015 6:25:59 PM EDT
[#2]
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Quoted:

Ummmm are you serious?? It means he loves the way that oil works in his AR. Thought it was pretty clear myself.
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For a long time I used Pro Long. But it burns out real fast if used on the BCG. I just use it on the trigger systems now.

Quoted:
Take some Mobil 1, mix with synthetic ATF till red.


Isn't ALL tranny fluid synthetic?



You are correct, had synthetic on the brain.

Though I have recently started using Royal Purple 10w-30 for my AR and am loving it. I want to get some Royal Purple ATF to mix it as I try to avoid mixing different brands.


What does this even MEAN?


Ummmm are you serious?? It means he loves the way that oil works in his AR. Thought it was pretty clear myself.




Sorry, I just can't get emotional about gun lube.  

{Joke.  Just joshin'. }
Link Posted: 4/30/2015 11:42:20 PM EDT
[#3]
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Quoted:


Sorry, I just can't get emotional about gun lube.  

{Joke.  Just joshin'. }
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It's a Southern thing, bro.
Link Posted: 4/30/2015 11:51:34 PM EDT
[#4]
OK.

Here's a little test I did a while back. Pieces of steel were ground and placed on a board, then a paper towel saturated in the oil was wiped over the steel, then a saturate solution water and table salt was sprayed on the board/steel. Here's the result. Triflow, G96, WD40 and Hoppe's #9 were the best. The motor oil was next. Two guncleaner/fouling solvents I made up were after that. Kerosene was about as bad as bare steel {control}.



Link Posted: 5/1/2015 12:15:37 AM EDT
[#5]
Corrosion is the last thing I think about. I mean, what exactly is going to corrode? Aluminum? Stainless steel? A parked bolt carrier/bolt? Chrome plating? What exactly is going to corrode on an AR-15 that doesn't see heavy use/abuse(carried/shot everyday)?

So if there really ISN'T much that is going to corrode, if anything at all, then it boils down to lubrication. Does it not? Lubrication that isn't going to burn out within, say, a couple hundred rounds, and is going to stay put when applied.
Link Posted: 5/1/2015 9:10:49 AM EDT
[#6]

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Quoted:


OK.



Here's a little test I did a while back. Pieces of steel were ground and placed on a board, then a paper towel saturated in the oil was wiped over the steel, then a saturate solution water and table salt was sprayed on the board/steel. Here's the result. Triflow, G96, WD40 and Hoppe's #9 were the best. The motor oil was next. Two guncleaner/fouling solvents I made up were after that. Kerosene was about as bad as bare steel {control}.



http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e115/Skaapskieter/Corrosion%20Test/RangeDaySHTFChallenge04302015%20008%201024x768_zpsi2li61zl.jpg



http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e115/Skaapskieter/Corrosion%20Test/RangeDaySHTFChallenge04302015%20011%201024x768_zps9523bc1v.jpg
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Your test shows preservative value.  Zero value in lubrication.  Thanks for your work though.  

 
Link Posted: 5/1/2015 9:23:06 AM EDT
[#7]
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Quoted:
Your test shows preservative value.  Zero value in lubrication.  Thanks for your work though.    
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OK.

Here's a little test I did a while back. Pieces of steel were ground and placed on a board, then a paper towel saturated in the oil was wiped over the steel, then a saturate solution water and table salt was sprayed on the board/steel. Here's the result. Triflow, G96, WD40 and Hoppe's #9 were the best. The motor oil was next. Two guncleaner/fouling solvents I made up were after that. Kerosene was about as bad as bare steel {control}.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e115/Skaapskieter/Corrosion%20Test/RangeDaySHTFChallenge04302015%20008%201024x768_zpsi2li61zl.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e115/Skaapskieter/Corrosion%20Test/RangeDaySHTFChallenge04302015%20011%201024x768_zps9523bc1v.jpg
Your test shows preservative value.  Zero value in lubrication.  Thanks for your work though.    


+1

I understand that entirely.  I just tossed it up FWIW.
Link Posted: 5/1/2015 11:15:31 AM EDT
[#8]

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Quoted:
+1



I understand that entirely.  I just tossed it up FWIW.
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Quoted:



Quoted:


Quoted:

OK.



Here's a little test I did a while back. Pieces of steel were ground and placed on a board, then a paper towel saturated in the oil was wiped over the steel, then a saturate solution water and table salt was sprayed on the board/steel. Here's the result. Triflow, G96, WD40 and Hoppe's #9 were the best. The motor oil was next. Two guncleaner/fouling solvents I made up were after that. Kerosene was about as bad as bare steel {control}.



http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e115/Skaapskieter/Corrosion%20Test/RangeDaySHTFChallenge04302015%20008%201024x768_zpsi2li61zl.jpg



http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e115/Skaapskieter/Corrosion%20Test/RangeDaySHTFChallenge04302015%20011%201024x768_zps9523bc1v.jpg
Your test shows preservative value.  Zero value in lubrication.  Thanks for your work though.    




+1



I understand that entirely.  I just tossed it up FWIW.
GOT IT!  Thanks again for taking the time to do something and post pictures.  Above and beyond most including me so far.  But I'm working on something...

 
Link Posted: 5/1/2015 11:52:41 AM EDT
[#9]
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Quoted:
GOT IT!  Thanks again for taking the time to do something and post pictures.  Above and beyond most including me so far.  But I'm working on something...  
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Quoted:
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Quoted:
OK.

Here's a little test I did a while back. Pieces of steel were ground and placed on a board, then a paper towel saturated in the oil was wiped over the steel, then a saturate solution water and table salt was sprayed on the board/steel. Here's the result. Triflow, G96, WD40 and Hoppe's #9 were the best. The motor oil was next. Two guncleaner/fouling solvents I made up were after that. Kerosene was about as bad as bare steel {control}.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e115/Skaapskieter/Corrosion%20Test/RangeDaySHTFChallenge04302015%20008%201024x768_zpsi2li61zl.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e115/Skaapskieter/Corrosion%20Test/RangeDaySHTFChallenge04302015%20011%201024x768_zps9523bc1v.jpg
Your test shows preservative value.  Zero value in lubrication.  Thanks for your work though.    


+1

I understand that entirely.  I just tossed it up FWIW.
GOT IT!  Thanks again for taking the time to do something and post pictures.  Above and beyond most including me so far.  But I'm working on something...  


Thanks.

I should add that corrosion protection shouldn't be discounted as if we must use lubrication products, there is absolutely no reason NOT to use a product that protects all ferrous metal parts in the gun mechanism, so in that sense the test sort of has a little relevance to the thread.
Link Posted: 5/1/2015 7:47:46 PM EDT
[#10]
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Pro:  it's cheap.

Cons:

1.  Not really a very good gun lube.
2.  Poor resistance to oxidation.
3.  Poor corrosion protection.
4.  Generally toxic.

But, it is cheap and a lot of people use it.
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This is the dumbest response I have ever read on this forum
Link Posted: 5/1/2015 8:43:41 PM EDT
[#11]
Been using Mobil 1 for over 20 years on my guns. Ain`t changing cause some shit has a fancy label and is advertised as better than xyz. Do you know how long a quart of M1 lasts?  
Link Posted: 5/1/2015 9:21:38 PM EDT
[#12]
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This is the dumbest response I have ever read on this forum
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Pro:  it's cheap.

Cons:

1.  Not really a very good gun lube.
2.  Poor resistance to oxidation.
3.  Poor corrosion protection.
4.  Generally toxic.

But, it is cheap and a lot of people use it.


This is the dumbest response I have ever read on this forum


I'm still looking for all these toxic synthetic oils. Hard to find one.
Link Posted: 5/1/2015 10:25:16 PM EDT
[#13]
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Quoted:


I'm still looking for all these toxic synthetic oils. Hard to find one.
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Pro:  it's cheap.

Cons:

1.  Not really a very good gun lube.
2.  Poor resistance to oxidation.
3.  Poor corrosion protection.
4.  Generally toxic.

But, it is cheap and a lot of people use it.


This is the dumbest response I have ever read on this forum


I'm still looking for all these toxic synthetic oils. Hard to find one.


Lol....well they are generally toxic....whatever that means...
Link Posted: 5/2/2015 2:19:24 AM EDT
[#14]
Worrying about toxic oils is like a motorcyclist worrying about germs from bugs in his teeth (and not the much larger issues such as a 3k pound vehicle ending your life)
In other words.... it's the LEAST of your worries, and not even worth mentioning.
Mobile 1 here. I don't give a damn how toxic it is (even assuming, for one second, that it's more toxic than any other lubricant). But hey... with the risk of hearing damage, ingested lead fumes, "AD's",.... I'll give oil a ZERO on my "worry scale".
Link Posted: 5/2/2015 11:34:25 AM EDT
[#15]
Most synthetic oils will at most give you the runs if you drink it according to their MSDS. So I suggest not doing that, but now days they are hardly what I would consider "toxic".

I've worked with toxic chemicals and they generally require gloves, boots, and a respirator.
Link Posted: 5/2/2015 11:40:19 AM EDT
[#16]
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I know of no downside to use of synthetic motor oils for lubrication of AR15 rifles and plenty of positives.

1.  Direct inpingement gas systems run very dirty and have much higher levels of carbon than piston type semi-auto systems or encountered in bolt guns.

2.  The type of carbon and the manner in which it is deposited is very similar to what happens inside direct injection engines, especially those with turbochargers.

3.  The operating environment of turbocharged direct injection engines, both gasoline and diesel, is very hostile, involving temperatures that approach 1500 degrees at the oil passageway surrounding the bearings in the turbo.  The center shaft being protected by that oil spins at over 100,000 rpm.

4.  Those engines run extremely low air to fuel ratios.  That means the combustion process is super rich.  The oil is much more prone to fuel dilution, and the residue that is left behind is very thick, dark and baked on carbon, if it is not picked up in the oil.

5.  There are detergent additives in this type of motor oil that are especially designed to keep carbon deposits from sticking, or make it harder for them to do so.

6.  The oil has to last a long time under these operating conditions, at least 3,500 to 5,000 miles.  The number of combustion and exhaust cycles in such an engine in one minute of operation is probably more than an AR15 will endure in its entire useful life.

7. The viscosity of the oils, typically 5w-30 or 5w40, is ideal to cling to the parts in our rifles without running off or becoming sticky.

8.  These oils seem to prevent or greatly reduce the tendency of nickel-boron BCGs  to stain, if you elect to run one.

9..  Even the highest grade synthetics, like Mobile 1 or my favorite (a turbodiesel variation), Shell Rotella T-6, are only about $6 per quart.  While that may be expensive for motor oil, it is very cheap compared to the various snake oils offered for our rifles, that may cost that much or more per ounce.


For these reasons, I think that these synthetic motor oils (not dino oil), especially the diesel formulations, are extremely effective at protecting our rifles.

I come from an automotive engine remanufacturing and machine shop background.  I am dumbfounded at the suggestion above that synthetic motor oils so formulated are prone to oxydation or do not provide corrosion protection on steel or aluminum materials used in our rifles.  We don't see these issues in engines, not on the cylinder walls, not on the pistions or other lubricated parts, not on bearing surfaces.  And I don't see it rifles.  Nor do I find any support for the notion that synthetic oils, including the additives, are toxic or hazardous.  I have the MSDS for T-6, and can discuss it at length, if anyone wants to read it and ask questions.  Google and download it.  Read it first to save us some time.  I'l give you one hint:  The toxicity is low even for human ingestion.  I'm not suggesting that anyone swallow it, but it won't hurt you if you do.

I do use Breakfree CLP or some clean up purposes (not lube), but frankly, prefer simple mineral spirits for that.

There are a lot of companies making a killing on selling gun specific snake oil at outrageous prices and profit.  None of these are better than high grade synthetic motor oil for lubrication purposes in an AR rifle, and most are decidedly worse.  Any that perform at close to the same level are probably almost entirely synthetic oil similar composition and viscosity as Mobil 1 or Rotella T-6.

I refuse to buy into the hype of those high priced gun oils.
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This

Magic Gun Lubes are BS and total hype.
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 10:54:47 AM EDT
[#17]
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Quoted:


Organic chemist checking in to say Thank You for posting this.

How I lube:
60% synthetic motor oil by volume
30% synthetic ATF by volume
10% acetone by volume
One olive
Shake lightly

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not sure if you are serious here or pulling our chain??????  If you truly believe this, take up knitting or something safer and by the way,  you will breath in more carcinogens walking in any town/city in one day than a lifetime of firing rounds using any lube......


Organic chemist checking in to say Thank You for posting this.

How I lube:
60% synthetic motor oil by volume
30% synthetic ATF by volume
10% acetone by volume
One olive
Shake lightly



i agree with the syn oil and atf blend but what does acetone do for the mix? just to thin it down?
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 2:00:43 PM EDT
[#18]
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Quoted:


i agree with the syn oil and atf blend but what does acetone do for the mix? just to thin it down?
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Quoted:

not sure if you are serious here or pulling our chain??????  If you truly believe this, take up knitting or something safer and by the way,  you will breath in more carcinogens walking in any town/city in one day than a lifetime of firing rounds using any lube......


Organic chemist checking in to say Thank You for posting this.

How I lube:
60% synthetic motor oil by volume
30% synthetic ATF by volume
10% acetone by volume
One olive
Shake lightly



i agree with the syn oil and atf blend but what does acetone do for the mix? just to thin it down?


Yup. Simply to thin the mix a bit and facilitate running into crags and crevices. But not so much acetone in the solution to be destructive to sensitive plastics or finishes. The acetone evaporates away pretty quickly, hopefully after attaining the desired effect on the viscosity of the solution.
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