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Posted: 1/2/2015 11:13:00 AM EDT
[#1]
I pull patches through the bore with slip 2000 carbon killer on them until the come out relatively clean, followed by a patch or two with slip 2000 EWL.
The bcg gets taken apart and wiped down. Then I reapply froglube paste. I wipe out any dust/gunk from the lower with a rag. Wipe out crap inside upper receiver with q-tips. That's about it. cleaning forum |
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Posted: 1/2/2015 11:35:58 AM EDT
[#2]
I use MPRO7 for solvent, SLIP2000 and TW25b grease to lube. I don't soak anything, just spray on solvent and go to town with rags, gun cleaning brushes and lots of Q-Tips.
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Posted: 1/2/2015 11:38:35 AM EDT
[#3]
CLP and elbow grease, but I guess I'm old school.
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Posted: 1/2/2015 11:51:40 AM EDT
[#4]
+1 slip2000
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Posted: 1/2/2015 11:53:48 AM EDT
[#5]
Butch's Bore Shine to clean the barrels and wipe down misc. parts. Light coat of Mobil 1 on everything with a dry patch down the barrel to finish things up.
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Posted: 1/2/2015 11:56:25 AM EDT
[#6]
I use Hoppe's #9 solvent for cleaning the BCG and bore, and BreakFree CLP (Old GI formula) for lube and rust prevention during storage.
For cleaning the bore I use a J.Dewey rod with a brass wrap jag (roll the patch around the jag like a cigarette), soaked in Hoppe's. I'll let it sit for a bit, then run dry patches using the same method until they are dry and clean, then I'll run another wet patch and let it soak for a bit more. Then repeat the process until I feel it's good to go. I also use the J.Dewey bore guide tube, this is VERY handy and helps keep the patch around the jag (you don't have to try to snake it through the receiver, hoping it stays on there). |
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Posted: 1/2/2015 12:06:19 PM EDT
[#7]
we have a huge cleaning section and this topic has been beat to death. http://www.ar15.com/forums/f_3/7_Maintenance_andamp__Cleaning.html IMHO its not so important what you use as it is that clean it and lube it, with at least something marked gun oil or bore cleaner. |
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Posted: 1/2/2015 12:13:20 PM EDT
[#8]
Kano Kroil for the bore. I use a bore brush and run it wet with Kroil about 20 times. Then I get the chamber brush and hit that a bit. Then I run dry patches about 3 times, followed by a wet patch in Kroil about 3-6 times. Followed by a dry patch a few times. Repeat as necessary. I use an AP brush soaked in Kroil and hit the inside of the upper receiver and wipe dry. Followed by Q-tips soaked in Kroil to get the tight spots, followed by dry Q-tips to clean it up. Kroil soaked Q-tips for the barrel extension. Followed by dry Q-tips and my pinky until clean. Repeat as necessary. Kroil and dry Q-tips for the fire control group. I wipe clean the buffer, and use a rag to clean the buffer spring. I sick a rag as far up into the buffer tube to wipe it somewhat clean. I apply a some CLP on my fingers and apply it inside the buffer tube. I apply a liberal amount of CLP on my hand and glide it up and down the spring - install it back in wet. I hit the BCG with a Kroil soaked AP brush until clean - wipe dry. Dental tools are useful for scraping off carbon build up on the Bolt. You could also use the firing pin if you don't have dental picks. Break Free CLP on an AP brush for all external steel parts along with a light coat of CLP on the BCG. My process is proven to be the best way to fully clean an AR, as I have never had an armorer return my weapon for a "slight" smidgen of carbon. If anyone is a Marine....you know how anal armorers are when turning in weapons after being cleaned.... |
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Posted: 1/2/2015 12:25:28 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You could also use the firing pin if you don't have dental picks. "Oh TEH noes..." |
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Posted: 1/2/2015 1:19:16 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Kano Kroil for the bore. I use a bore brush and run it wet with Kroil about 20 times. Then I get the chamber brush and hit that a bit. Then I run dry patches about 3 times, followed by a wet patch in Kroil about 3-6 times. Followed by a dry patch a few times. Repeat as necessary. I use an AP brush soaked in Kroil and hit the inside of the upper receiver and wipe dry. Followed by Q-tips soaked in Kroil to get the tight spots, followed by dry Q-tips to clean it up. Kroil soaked Q-tips for the barrel extension. Followed by dry Q-tips and my pinky until clean. Repeat as necessary. Kroil and dry Q-tips for the fire control group. I wipe clean the buffer, and use a rag to clean the buffer spring. I sick a rag as far up into the buffer tube to wipe it somewhat clean. I apply a some CLP on my fingers and apply it inside the buffer tube. I apply a liberal amount of CLP on my hand and glide it up and down the spring - install it back in wet. I hit the BCG with a Kroil soaked AP brush until clean - wipe dry. Dental tools are useful for scraping off carbon build up on the Bolt. You could also use the firing pin if you don't have dental picks. Break Free CLP on an AP brush for all external steel parts along with a light coat of CLP on the BCG. My process is proven to be the best way to fully clean an AR, as I have never had an armorer return my weapon for a "slight" smidgen of carbon. If anyone is a Marine....you know how anal armorers are when turning in weapons after being cleaned.... Jarhead 03 here telling you to just let go of that over cleaning stuff . Just. Let. Go.
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Posted: 1/2/2015 1:42:21 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Kano Kroil for the bore. I use a bore brush and run it wet with Kroil about 20 times. Then I get the chamber brush and hit that a bit. Then I run dry patches about 3 times, followed by a wet patch in Kroil about 3-6 times. Followed by a dry patch a few times. Repeat as necessary. I use an AP brush soaked in Kroil and hit the inside of the upper receiver and wipe dry. Followed by Q-tips soaked in Kroil to get the tight spots, followed by dry Q-tips to clean it up. Kroil soaked Q-tips for the barrel extension. Followed by dry Q-tips and my pinky until clean. Repeat as necessary. Kroil and dry Q-tips for the fire control group. I wipe clean the buffer, and use a rag to clean the buffer spring. I sick a rag as far up into the buffer tube to wipe it somewhat clean. I apply a some CLP on my fingers and apply it inside the buffer tube. I apply a liberal amount of CLP on my hand and glide it up and down the spring - install it back in wet. I hit the BCG with a Kroil soaked AP brush until clean - wipe dry. Dental tools are useful for scraping off carbon build up on the Bolt. You could also use the firing pin if you don't have dental picks. Break Free CLP on an AP brush for all external steel parts along with a light coat of CLP on the BCG. My process is proven to be the best way to fully clean an AR, as I have never had an armorer return my weapon for a "slight" smidgen of carbon. If anyone is a Marine....you know how anal armorers are when turning in weapons after being cleaned.... I was taught how to shoot and clean my first AR by two Marines. I think I cleaned the gun for a longer period of time than I shot it. I was also super anal about cleaning for a long time, due to that teaching. I still use Q-tips, etc. when I do a "deep" clean on the gun. Now though, I run'em wet and clean when I feel they are ready. Seems to have worked well for me. |
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Posted: 1/2/2015 2:00:14 PM EDT
[#12]
I'm another in the just let it go camp to al the white glove inspectors.
But since it might get wider distribution here I have a bore cleaner that works well (on carbon; not copper fouling). It is called Ed's Red Bore Cleaner. I have modified the mix for modern military times (JP-8 instead of kerosene). 1 part: JP-8 (that new clear diesel, since the Army is on a one fuel program so is America) 1 part: Acetone 1 part: Mineral Sprits 1 part: ATF (automatic transmission oil; Dextron III, et) Yea, Yea... there are so many other mixes out there with the space age products at $12.00 a pint. THIS one is ECOMONICAL. Put in on just after shooting (happiness is a warm gun) let sit a hour(s) to overnight; clean/lube. |
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Posted: 1/2/2015 2:28:39 PM EDT
[#13]
Here's what I use, FWIW: Bore Snake with CLP for field cleaning. At home I use Wipe-Out bore cleaner for the bore and chamber and CLP for everything else. Once or twice a year I give my guns a deep cleaning, including removing old lube with unchlorinated brake cleaner and re-lubing.
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Posted: 1/2/2015 2:54:08 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: "Oh TEH noes..." Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: You could also use the firing pin if you don't have dental picks. "Oh TEH noes..." You act as if something bad will happen.... |
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Posted: 1/2/2015 2:55:15 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Jarhead 03 here telling you to just let go of that over cleaning stuff . Just. Let. Go. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Kano Kroil for the bore. I use a bore brush and run it wet with Kroil about 20 times. Then I get the chamber brush and hit that a bit. Then I run dry patches about 3 times, followed by a wet patch in Kroil about 3-6 times. Followed by a dry patch a few times. Repeat as necessary. I use an AP brush soaked in Kroil and hit the inside of the upper receiver and wipe dry. Followed by Q-tips soaked in Kroil to get the tight spots, followed by dry Q-tips to clean it up. Kroil soaked Q-tips for the barrel extension. Followed by dry Q-tips and my pinky until clean. Repeat as necessary. Kroil and dry Q-tips for the fire control group. I wipe clean the buffer, and use a rag to clean the buffer spring. I sick a rag as far up into the buffer tube to wipe it somewhat clean. I apply a some CLP on my fingers and apply it inside the buffer tube. I apply a liberal amount of CLP on my hand and glide it up and down the spring - install it back in wet. I hit the BCG with a Kroil soaked AP brush until clean - wipe dry. Dental tools are useful for scraping off carbon build up on the Bolt. You could also use the firing pin if you don't have dental picks. Break Free CLP on an AP brush for all external steel parts along with a light coat of CLP on the BCG. My process is proven to be the best way to fully clean an AR, as I have never had an armorer return my weapon for a "slight" smidgen of carbon. If anyone is a Marine....you know how anal armorers are when turning in weapons after being cleaned.... Jarhead 03 here telling you to just let go of that over cleaning stuff . Just. Let. Go. Old habits die hard.... At least my beat up AR will be the cleanest AR  |
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Posted: 1/2/2015 4:19:49 PM EDT
[#16]
Topic Moved
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Posted: 1/2/2015 9:45:30 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Old habits die hard.... At least my beat up AR will be the cleanest AR
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Kano Kroil for the bore. I use a bore brush and run it wet with Kroil about 20 times. Then I get the chamber brush and hit that a bit. Then I run dry patches about 3 times, followed by a wet patch in Kroil about 3-6 times. Followed by a dry patch a few times. Repeat as necessary. I use an AP brush soaked in Kroil and hit the inside of the upper receiver and wipe dry. Followed by Q-tips soaked in Kroil to get the tight spots, followed by dry Q-tips to clean it up. Kroil soaked Q-tips for the barrel extension. Followed by dry Q-tips and my pinky until clean. Repeat as necessary. Kroil and dry Q-tips for the fire control group. I wipe clean the buffer, and use a rag to clean the buffer spring. I sick a rag as far up into the buffer tube to wipe it somewhat clean. I apply a some CLP on my fingers and apply it inside the buffer tube. I apply a liberal amount of CLP on my hand and glide it up and down the spring - install it back in wet. I hit the BCG with a Kroil soaked AP brush until clean - wipe dry. Dental tools are useful for scraping off carbon build up on the Bolt. You could also use the firing pin if you don't have dental picks. Break Free CLP on an AP brush for all external steel parts along with a light coat of CLP on the BCG. My process is proven to be the best way to fully clean an AR, as I have never had an armorer return my weapon for a "slight" smidgen of carbon. If anyone is a Marine....you know how anal armorers are when turning in weapons after being cleaned.... Jarhead 03 here telling you to just let go of that over cleaning stuff . Just. Let. Go.
Old habits die hard.... At least my beat up AR will be the cleanest AR
I've cleaned so much in the Marines that my own rifles stay dirty.
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Posted: 1/3/2015 2:05:40 AM EDT
[#18]
Bore Tech C4 for carbon. Bore Tech Cu+2 for copper. Bore Tech Eliminator for "do it all". Bore Tech"s gun oil is also excellent. IMO, easily the best chemicals going in the industry. Try it for yourself. If they don't work better then anything you've already tried, they will give you your money back.
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Posted: 1/3/2015 4:24:39 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm another in the just let it go camp to al the white glove inspectors. But since it might get wider distribution here I have a bore cleaner that works well (on carbon; not copper fouling). It is called Ed's Red Bore Cleaner. I have modified the mix for modern military times (JP-8 instead of kerosene). 1 part: JP-8 (that new clear diesel, since the Army is on a one fuel program so is America) 1 part: Acetone 1 part: Mineral Sprits 1 part: ATF (automatic transmission oil; Dextron III, et) Yea, Yea... there are so many other mixes out there with the space age products at $12.00 a pint. THIS one is ECOMONICAL. Put in on just after shooting (happiness is a warm gun) let sit a hour(s) to overnight; clean/lube. I've tried it. Cheap way to make your own solvent. |
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Posted: 1/3/2015 6:08:25 AM EDT
[#20]
http://www.slip2000.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=S&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=60372
Buy this set, swab the barrel and and put some on a toothbrush to scrub the BCG of the carbon cutter. let soak 15 mins. bore brush barrel then run patches through it till it comes out fairly clean. hose everything with the 725 Degreaser and wipe dry. relube with the EWL and your good to go. If the gun isn't too dirty, like 50 rounds through it. you can use the EWL for cleaning and relube. it is a CLP. |
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Posted: 1/3/2015 7:09:08 PM EDT
[#21]
Just Ballistol.
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Posted: 1/3/2015 11:15:44 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just Ballistol. |
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Posted: 1/3/2015 11:52:33 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
CLP and elbow grease, but I guess I'm old school. +1 
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Posted: 1/4/2015 6:02:29 AM EDT
[#24]
For the bore start with 2 wet patches of Hoppes 9, sit for 10 - 15 minutes then a few dry patches. I don't have a dropper bottle for the bore guide solvent port so it takes 2 to give it a good soak using the pointed jag. I stopped using slotted tips entirely for my AR-15s except the slotted plastic cleaning rod that came with my Glock to wet the patches before shoving them down the bore guide. Repeat once more but just one wet patch and make damn sure it is dry afterwards. If I want it to be really clean I may follow up with Wipe-Out Patch-Out, it works well to keep the flash hider buildup at bay and for copper.
I don't soak anything else, everything else is wiped down with a rag or with Qtips. Areas I can't reach with the cleaning rag gets a Qtip like the chamber or bolt carrier interior. As far the lower receiver is concerned, I just wipe off and re oil the hammer face. It tends to stay clean. I use Weapon Shield to lube, as thin as possible application in the bore for my one to kept ready and more for the ones I may not shoot for a while. |
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Posted: 1/5/2015 1:07:10 PM EDT
[#25]
Quoted:
So after a round of shooting and it's time to clean your rifle, what are some cleaners you use? Solvents, Lubes, Sprays, Oils? When taking apart the upper or lower assemblies do you put those parts in some kind of solvents to soak? Just like to see what kinds of cleaners everyone uses? If I have a rifle that's chrome bored then I just use oil like Breakfree or Rem Oil. I much prefer Rem myself as it's a nicer material to use but I can't get it in the spray bottle anymore so it's back to Breakfree again. Non-chromed bores needs bore solvent ( I like Birchwood Casey's Bore Scrubber ) and the same as about oil. Impala |
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Posted: 1/5/2015 5:06:23 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
CLP and elbow grease, but I guess I'm old school. I've been trying out frog lube lately though. |
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Posted: 1/6/2015 10:30:45 AM EDT
[#27]
I love the OLD CLP!!
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Posted: 1/6/2015 9:41:30 PM EDT
[#28]
I clean barrels with Butch's Bore Shine and everything else with Weapon Shield. I use patches, rags and a large number of q-tips.
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Posted: 1/8/2015 3:17:29 AM EDT
[#29]
BreakFree Foaming Bore Cleaner for the bore, MPro-7 for everything else. If it's really dirty I'll start with blasting out some of the crap with brake cleaner first.
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Posted: 1/15/2015 12:52:17 PM EDT
[#30]
Was surprised that I could not find any reference to Windex!
The Blue Windex with nothing added is a spray, wipe down, Windex wet patch the barrel, dry patch, then clean the bore as normal! The ammonia and water in the Windex kills the salts on contact. Been doing this in my AKs and 7.62x54R rifles for almost 2 decades and no rust, also been using it to clean my Black Powder guns. KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) principle! |
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Posted: 1/18/2015 7:29:52 PM EDT
[#31]
Ah..... What salts?
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Posted: 1/18/2015 7:30:53 PM EDT
[#32]
Not in an ar15 55.6.
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Posted: 1/20/2015 7:38:58 AM EDT
[#33]
Please don't repeat this urban myth that exists in the shooting community! It's stupid as saying "break" instead of "brake". Ammonia, which is no longer in Windex does absolutely nothing to salts! Ammonia "kills" salts? Salts are not killed or neutralized. Acids are neutralized not salts. Were we sleeping through high school chemistry? Yes I am pissed when this bullshit is regurgitated. Water, which is the main component of Windex, will wash the salts away. Nothing more, nothing less!
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Posted: 1/26/2015 1:51:24 PM EDT
[#34]
I have had great results with Slip products.
Slip 2000 725 Gun cleaner, EWL Lube, and their Carbon Killer/BoreCleaner has worked great for me. I even use these products in my precision Bartlein .308 barrel with great results. For fun, I always try new stuff (breakthrough, Mpro7, fire clean, frog lube, etc.) but always find my way back to Slip 2000 products. I am interested to try the new Lucas oil lube though, looks real nice. |
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Posted: 3/24/2015 4:22:39 PM EDT
[#35]
seafoam is a great bore cleaner/ carbon cleaner, Ive used it for years
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