I tested FIREClean a while back, and my initial impression was that it performed very poorly against corrosion. The best bio-lube I had tested was Rand CLP. FIREClean insisted in private conversation with me that their product "lasted a month outside on BCG's during hurricane season and did fine", or some such. So, I felt like putting it to the test. Naturally I don't have random BCG's sitting around for destructive testing, but I used stripper clips (had to cut it in 3rds as I only had one), and some bare sanded nails. I left them outside on a utility box. They were rained on. They were baked under the sun. They were frozen. They were thawed. Time/date stamps are on the pictures.

All items from left to right: Control, FIREClean, Rand CLP (current formula)










I would further note that FIREClean's claims about ease of cleaning appear to be true in testing with my severely over-gassed 10.5" suppressed SBR. When the bolt-tail does get build-up on it, it easily chips off using any "sharp" metal instrument, and the rest rubs off with a paper towel. When I say chips off, I mean that it comes off in larger chips, not you have to scour the thing like a dentist. It takes about 0:30-1:30 to have a pristine bolt-tail again. Pretty impressive.

Comparing it to other CLP's on my suppressed .22 pistol, the action does not become gritty nearly as fast. Hundreds of rounds suppressed, and it still feels pretty slick. Not like sand is built up in it.

All things told, I am really starting to like the FIREClean product, and I have tested it to have merit as the company claims in every aspect except on suppressor baffles. My Spectre II doesn't seem to care whether it has FIREClean on the baffles, or something else, or nothing else. FIREClean continues to supply evidence with other suppressors (Sparrows, etc.) showing how well it works, so maybe it's the stainless material + baffle design on the Spectre II. Either way, it has not met their advertising ON MY SUPPRESSOR. In every other aspect, I cannot honestly say that they have not made good on their claims, which are lofty indeed.

I consider myself about as non-biased as it gets, and I have not always been a fan of FIREClean, or my interaction with that company. However, when I expressed interest in further testing to them, even before I told them my positive results, they were very polite and professional with me. Perhaps I had previously caught them on a bad day, or who knows, but I am pleased with how they interacted with me, this go.

*I purchased and paid for every FIREClean product I have touched with my own money, and without FIREClean's knowledge of who or where or when I bought their product from. As with all of the tests I do, I try to be non-biased, and feelings come second to facts. I will happily re-test anything if anyone disagrees, but please understand that the test with the nails is already a re-test of an identical scenario, the original results of which can be seen on the bottom in the second picture, and the initiation of this first test, in the first picture. The second test began in the second picture, as shown.

Conclusion of 90+ days in the elements

Did you do a Rand CLP test?

I use it on my can mount and inside on the threads and ratchet(I have an SDN6) I've found it helps prevent it locking up after a few hundred rounds, the carbon is still loose and slightly moist.

Yes, read the part of the post above the pictures. Single line.

I returned to using FC toward the end of the summer, because I didn't like the other 2 CLP's as much, and I started missing it
Everything will get Fire Clean on it from now on.

Video Update:FIREClean vs. Rand CLP

Very cool. I was using militec, FC and SEAL1 CLP. Fire Clean was the only one that didn't make my SCARs BCG feel sluggish in very cold weather. Besides that it's super easy to clean my parts with just a quick wipe down.

Another video update:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p-yk81_mnZU&feature=youtu.be

Just curious.  

Put a couple of drops of FIREClean between your fingers.
Rub the fingers together,
Wet with tap water.
Rub them again.

Does it feel sluggish or the same?

Astroglide or Wet Platinum work well for this.  It all depends on whether you need lube for your rifle or your gun.

These have been outside for 3 months now, and I have concluded the test.

Rand CLP vs. FIREClean...out in the elements for 3 months

What does this tell you?  i've seen you ask this before and don't understand what it's supposed to mean.

I've been using FIREClean for "a while", now, and it continues to do exactly what I want.

I was coming in here to ask about this.  I have a Gemtech Jake Brake on an SBR and it gets jammed up pretty quickly.  Was hoping FIREClean might provide a solution.

Is it safe to use on the mount portion of the can itself?

What's weird is that my gun isn't made of stripper clips or nails...so there's that...

Well, I have some inbound.  

I'll circle back to report if it helps with my suppressor induced carbon fouling problem.

I use it on my surefire as you describe. I'm not sure it's a solution, but it won't harm anything.

fireclean works great on my ria 1911.

Thanks for the response.  Agree that it's not an elegant solution, but it might make my shooting life a lot easier while giving me an opp to test drive FIREClean.

Robar Specific (NP3) nickel Teflon coatings .... they recommend only fireclean.
I have since then moved over to it and had similar results.

Not a bad wagon jumper.. I still have lots of other lubes and oils but FC is getting all my attention right now.

FC was described and recommended to me by Robar here in AZ because it has enough viscosity to stay on the part applied and not run off.

Just an update. I had put FIREClean on my Dad's M4 that I gave him for Christmas. He has, sadly, been too busy to actually SHOOT the thing yet, but I looked at it the other day (a 4.5 month timeframe). The FIREClean on the rails of the BCG was still wet and had the same viscosity as the day it went on, and that which was "exposed", such as, on the side of the carrier (he left the port door open in the safe), had an oily "sheen" to it. No visible oxidation on the weapon, or oxidation breakdown of the lube (color or texture) was present, nor was it sticky or anything else untoward. It literally could have been lubed up 2-3 days ago and looked the same.

I believe it is good stuff but at $7.50 an ounce it had better be really freaking good.

1 bottle lasts...a very long time. 1 bottle costs...the same as loading 1 PMAG with M193. It does work really freaking good, but I never understood the stress over cost for items under $20 that will likely last a year + even on a heavily used weapon.