I'm a newbie to the AR-15 world...great instructions from the Maryland link!  Thanks for taking the time to do it!!  I'm about to perform my virgin stripping now...with that post printed of course!

Being new also just bought my left handed stag arms ar-15 what tools will i need in the future to do a complete strip down field strip is pretty basic

pony

i do that with all my firearms to check for problems usually after the 4th or 5th trip to the range
i do the basic field strip after shooting

Quoted: www.ar15.com/content/guides/maintenance/ Manual cover with a good reason to properly clean weapons: world.guns.ru/assault/m16a1comix.jpg Maryland Shooter's Site: groups.msn.com/TheMarylandAR15ShootersSite/fieldstripping.msnw I'll get a detailed field strip guide within a few days, either from the Mayland site or create it myself.

Great Link!!!

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Quoted: Quoted: Being new also just bought my left handed stag arms ar-15 what tools will i need in the future to do a complete strip down field strip is pretty basic pony The question is, why would you want to do a total strip on a complete rifle?  You don't gain anything on cleaning and maintenance. If you want to learn what makes it go, there are easier ways. I'll ask somebody who knows more than me tomorrow on what you'll need for a complete strip.

Ok... I was thinking on those lines.  If I learn how to disassemble it and reassemble it I will know better how it works, how to care for it, and will be much further on my way to learning how to assemble one on my own from just parts (my ultimate goal).  So the question I have is if there is a better way to simply learn to properly care for it and do basic repairs, what it it?  If there is a better way to learn the nuts and bolts of it (no pun intended) what is it?

If there is a better way to learn the nuts and bolts of it (no pun intended) what is it?

Join the Marines.

Those of us who cannot join the marines are looking for detailed cleaning instructions

Ok, I've read the links and none of them explain in "detail" where and what to lube, not to lube, etc.

I always spray Break Free CLP on all the metal parts, let them sit a few minutes and then wipe them down.  At what points should one put on extra and what areas shouldn't be lubed at all?  I never put any into the trigger housing, but do put a small drop of Tetra on the hammer, and carrier slide areas.

Anything else I should be doing or not doing??

Thanks!  

I've been meaning to get to that.  I'll try this weekend.
Forgot about my edit button -DF

Thanks DF!

Looking forward to your info on my question.  

Yeah, where can one find detailed lube instructions?

Need to update this link:

Manual cover with a good reason to properly clean weapons: world.guns.ru/assault/m16a1comix.jpg

Quoted: Yeah, where can one find detailed lube instructions?

Here's my method for cleaning and lubricating-


Cleaning-

*CLEAR WEAPON
*Good thorough field strip, including all parts of B/CH/BCG

*Hose down FCG, B/CH/BCG, and inside of upper receiver with carb cleaner
*Scrub all above parts with copper and nylon brushes, pipe cleaner, Qtips
*Scrape all carbon off of firing pin and bolt face using homemade scraper tool (formerly coat hanger) and dental picks
*Hose internal parts off with carb cleaner
*Wipe down all parts with rag
*Wipe interior of mag well with rag

*Stick carb cleaner straw into gas tube at front of upper receiver. Spray liberally
*Spray carb cleaner down barrel from chamber end
*Pull boresnake through barrel 3 or 4 times
*Spray out boresnake with carb cleaner. Let dry

*Hose out star chamber with carb cleaner
*Clean star chamber using chamber brush and GI T handle, dental picks, Q tips, and patches
*Rinse star chamber with carb cleaner

*Wipe down buffer
*Insert piece of rag inbetween first and second layer of buffer spring. Twist buffer spring, working rag all the way down to the other end
*Hose out receiver extension tube with carb cleaner

*Clean any mud off of external surfaces. Wipe weapon down with damp rag
*Clean handguards, beneath heat shields, and exposed barrel
*Clean trigger well with Qtips. Drop down trigger guard and clean exposed areas
*Wipe interior of pistol grip with rag
*On A2 models, clean butt plate, drain hole, and trap door
*Clean sights with Qtips, pipe cleaner, and nylon brush. Flip aperture and ensure both sections are clean
*Clean any rust off of front sight post or flash suppressor. Lightly coat flash suppressor using CLP.

------
Assembling/Lubricating-

*Insert buffer and spring into receiver extension tube
*Install handguards
*Squirt a few drops of CLP down barrel from chamber end
*Run now-dry boresnake through barrel once to disperse lube
*Place plastic muzzle cap over flash suppressor

*Assemble extractor onto bolt.
*Align gas rings 60 degrees apart
*Place 2-3 drops of CLP on body of bolt, smear over bolt body with finger
*Place 1-2 drops of CLP on bolt cam, smear over bolt cam with finger
*Assemble bolt into bolt carrier, insert and twist bolt cam, insert firing pin and firing pin retaining pin, grasp bolt carrier group and snap bolt out
*Place 1 drop of CLP on each side of the bolt carrier, at the bottom front, on the raised rails. Smear with finger over entire rail section
*Place 1 drop of CLP on each side of the bolt carrier, at the top front, on the raised rails next to the gas key. Smear with finger over entire rail section
*Place 2-3 drops of CLP into opening of gas key of BCG

*Insert charging handle into upper receiver
*Insert BCG into charging handle
*Push BCG/CH forward, locking CH
*Reassemble upper and lower receivers

*Perform functions check
*Close ejection port cover




If field conditions do not allow for carb cleaner, then I use liberal amounts of CLP to ensure that contaminated CLP when used as solvent is washed/wiped clean before applying CLP as lubricant. Weapon is wiped dry before final assembly/lubrication.




For the official lube order, check out the Technical Manual for the M16/M4 series rifles. I think there's a digital copy on this site under Information/Manuals&Downloads. My method is based on the TM, with some personal modifications that I've found to be effective. YMMV

Very good for this time of day!

excellent post pevrs114

Excellent posts, thanks for the info

anyone ever used CORROSION X?  

Carb cleaner, oven cleaner, brake cleaner etc. all remove oil and carbon well......TOO well.

Detent spring tunnels and roll pins will have their protective oils removed, and may not get any when you re-lube your weapon. This will eventually result in rusting, oxidation and failure of parts.

I know that your Drill Sergeant/Instructor said it was OK. I know that your armorer said it was OK. I know that your Platoon Sergeant/Leader said it was OK....

...but it's not. Really.

Quoted: Could you expound on "protective oils"?

All solid metals have some degree of oil in them. The steel and aluminum used in M-AR15/16 has quite a bit, more so after a good proper cleaning. If you use a oil/carbon cutter, these oils are drawn out of the metal leaving it vulnerable to corrosion.

Yes, your rifle will be clean....TOO clean. The springs in our rifles are, at best, Cadmium plated for weather protection. As we know, Cad plating sucks for that. You need oil to be present on the springs (and in the tunnels too) to repel moisture and its ensuing rust. I've had to pull out too many crumbled rusty springs, and drill out corroded detent tunnels due to "magic" cleaning tricks and chemicals. Not to mention rusty buffer springs.

you sound like you know what you're talking about...thus what would you adjust in the above cleaning list?

You're not saying not to clean at all obviously, so what to clean and howso?

thanks!

Quoted: you sound like you know what you're talking about...thus what would you adjust in the above cleaning list? You're not saying not to clean at all obviously, so what to clean and howso? thanks!

Yes, obviously herever
Toothbrush, CLP (or any quality firearm specific cleaning solution), bore brushes and patches, rags, elbow grease, and time. Clean is when you can, after wiping the part dry, rub the part without leaving any carbon on your finger. Too clean is when the finish gets removedhe
It's not rocket science....nor chemistry...to clean an AR15 M16, or any other rifle, just attention to detail.

Look, if all those carb/brake/oven cleaners were best for firearms, the gun-cleaning industry would be all over it with their own brands and formulas....right? Not too long ago, we billed a M.I. company to replace 5 upper receivers that had the parkerizing "bleached" out from Eazy-Off....from nearly black to Navy gray.  Needless to say, that company no longer takes the "quick and easy" route to clean their M16's.

In the end, simply re-lube all contact points after cleaning, and wipe away any excess.

Caution with 'Break Free CLP'.
I read several years ago that 'Break Free' will become very stiff after a bit of time.
At the time I used it exclusively as a cleaner and lube, including inside the cylinder of my revolvers on the crane.
I checked a revolver that I seldom shoot but kept as a 'house gun'.  It was last cleaned and lubed approximately 10 months earlier.
The 'Break Free' had become stiff and would not allow the cylinder to turn unless it was turned by hand.
After cleaning the tar-like CLP from it, I re-lubed with military LSA.  It has now been sitting for about 4 years without any problem.

Alternatively I use 'Militec-1' which works as well (maybe better?).

I continue to use 'Break Free', but only as a cleaner or external rust preventive on non-moving parts.

Quoted: www.ar15.com/content/guides/maintenance/ Manual cover with a good reason to properly clean weapons: world.guns.ru/assault/m16a1comix.jpg Maryland Shooter's Site: groups.msn.com/TheMarylandAR15ShootersSite/fieldstripping.msnw I'll get a detailed field strip guide within a few days, either from the Mayland site or create it myself.

As an AR newbie... thanks for the link.

Look, if all those carb/brake/oven cleaners were best for firearms, the gun-cleaning industry would be all over it with their own brands and formulas....right? .

They did. Remington Action Cleaner seems to be nothing but Brake cleaner in a Remington can.

you all are going to hate me for this one. I've used it in a pinch and is the most effective. Hot Hot water and soap. works well. But you do have to get it dry and lubed right away. I can hear everyone cringe. If you think about it though doesn't it get wet in  humidity, or when your out in the field and it rains. You ain't training if it ain't raining. Well any way lube and not too much lube is the trick to keep it functioning. CLP or breakfree is all I ever was able to get hold of in the service. never had a problem...

Quite the contrary SSGRob, hot soapy water is the way we clean blackpowder firearms to this day, and have been for some 300+ years (it's great for removing corrosive salts).
When it's all you got, use the hottest water you can touch, as a warm firearm aids in drying when you're done.

Man, thanks so much for this I printed this out and am taking it to pass out to some of our new swat candidates for home study on breaking down their M4's. I noted on the information where and whom it came from and encouraged them to visit this site. Thanks again.

Awesome post

Does anyone produce a good DVD on cleaning and maintenance?

Perhaps a good reason to produce one for AR15.com

Quoted: Does anyone produce a good DVD on cleaning and maintenance? Perhaps a good reason to produce one for AR15.com

I'd buy it.  Especially if it had multiple examples, since everyone seems to have different ways of doing it that they like best. For example... a Hoppes/RemOil clip, a CLP clip, etc.

Quoted: Look, if all those carb/brake/oven cleaners were best for firearms, the gun-cleaning industry would be all over it with their own brands and formulas....right? . They did. Remington Action Cleaner seems to be nothing but Brake cleaner in a Remington can.

Birchwood Casey also makes one, called "Gun Scrubber", pretty much the same stuff....

For a quickie, use GunScrubber in the BLUE can.  I use it extensively to clean mine, especially the barrel.  The new version won't suck out all the oil.  As far as oil amount goes, medium.  Don't run it dry, but you shouldn't drown it either.  I copper solvent only twice a year.  It is kind of dry, but the Bushmaster video is pretty good.  Robert takes a box of parts and builds a gun from the start.  It will give you a great idea of how it is put together.

I read about the comic book type manual issued to the troops in Vietnam and thought it would be interesting to have a copy.

After searching all over, I found a copy from MidwayUSA.com I think it was $6.95 plus shipping, so I went ahead and ordered a copy last week.

Got it in the mail today and it's great! Seems to be a lot of good info in it.

Great info thanks for answering the question.

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Quoted: Manual cover with a good reason to properly clean weapons: world.guns.ru/assault/m16a1comix.jpg

This link is bad.

his. I learn something every time I bring it up   thanks for the info!

Thanks I need all the help I can get

I would try Engine Degreaser like Engine Brite before I would something as acetone like as carb or brake cleaner.  Engine Degreaser has some oils in it but it will cut the gunk pretty good, get rid of excess oils and clean a recently used weapon really nice.  

Also spray some brake cleaner on a painted surface and watch the paint melt, it is way to corrosive.  Engine Cleaner is pretty mild and very paint or surface friendly.  And it is water soluable.  

Tom

Not sure if it's posted but there is a nice free video on: http://www.gunsmokeenterprises.net/ click on videos and go to the bottom.

What about barrel cleaning? I've heard that the 1 piece cleaning rods are best because they don't damage the barrel like the multi-piece rods might. I've also heard that you should be not actually exit the end of the barrel with a cleaning rod. Anyone have a good guide to cleaning barrels?

Check out the Armalite website for there Technical Notes. They have all kinds of information on what to do and what not to do to your AR including cleaning and lubrication.

Quoted: Check out the Armalite website for there Technical Notes. They have all kinds of information on what to do and what not to do to your AR including cleaning and lubrication.

Damn good find!

stmarys, if you go to http://www.ar15.com/content/manuals/ and download the "Unit And Direct Support Maintenance Manual M16A2, M4, M4A1".  I think it will answer a lot of your questions.  There is a lot of other manuals and other information which you might also find interesting.  Hope this helps. Safe shooting

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Quoted: Not sure if it's posted but there is a nice free video on: http://www.gunsmokeenterprises.net/ click on videos and go to the bottom. Great Link.