Easy problem solve,

On the two problem B/C combos, start with pulling the bolt and dry fitting only the carrier with key to the upper receiver.  Here you want to make sure that the carrier is not binding in the  upper (sides of the key down the upper slot), and the gas tube is correctly aligning with the carrier keys.
Note, if the sides of the keys are binding down the upper slot, you may have to lap the sides of the key to allow it to move freely in the upper receiver track.

If there is no binding and the keys are aligning with the gas tube, then next step,
Since you have one working bolt and carrier, pull the bolt out of that carrier and try it in the other  problem carrier to weed out if the problem is the other bolts or the other carrier.

If the working bolt in one of the carriers is having a problem cycling the rig, then since you weeded out problems with either carrier or gas tube binding, then the problem is that the gas key is leaking from between it base and the top of the carrier, or the bottom of the carrier is slightly lower, and causing the hammer to wedge between the bottom of the carrier and top of the trigger (will have a dent/white lines on the top of the trigger from the tail of the hammer being wedged between the two).

As for the key leaking, since these are new bolts, send them back for replacements if the key is leaking.  Also, to check for key leak, you can just hold the bolt inward, put some CLP around the base of the key to carrier and pressurize the front of the key with an air compressor to check as well.
[youtube]https://youtu.be/ZNAF1nM_g1c[/youtube]

If you don/t have problems with the working bolt in the problem carrier, then you need to use the working carrier, and try the problem bolts in that carrier next.
Note, if you find that one of the bolts is the problem, then send it and its carrier back for replacement.

As for gas rings, just remember that they are stamp cut.  One side edges of the rings will be rounded, while the other side edges will be sharp instead.  
When you install or re-install the rings back of the bolt, ALL the sharp ring side edges need to be facing the tail of the bolt.

In this photo, the top right ring is round side up, while the middle and lower rig are sharp side up instead.
Note, if you can not see it when looking at your rings, you can fill which is which with your finger nail.


As for the gas block, the easy way to double check to make sure its installed correctly, if to first check the distance from the barrel shoulder to the center of gas port, then check the gas block from back of block to the center of the gas port.  Some blocks are produced for the front hand guard ring to be in play while others are not.  By check the two distances, this will tell you if the gas block should be installed tight against the barrel shoulder, or slightly off the barrel shoulder instead.

As of installing the gas block once you have figured if the block needs to be tight against the barrel shoulder or not, use a pencil to make a line on the top of the shoulder dead center of the barrel gas port, and use the center line of the gas tube against the line for your rotation index.  If you are running a float tube, then before you final tighten the gas block set screws, use a carrier with key to double check the alignment of the gas tube against the carrier key.  If the alignment is not correct, DO NOT ROTATE THE BLOCK ON THE BARREL,  but instead pull the block with gas tube and tweak the gas tube to correct the alignment about the center of the gas tube.  If you are using snap on hand gaurds, the you install the block and tweak the gas tube with the block in place. Also to point out to check for gas block leaks against the barrel, this would be a good time to hand tighen the set screws and with a touch of CLP front and back of the block to the barrel and even on the tube to block, use a piece of rubber tubing to pressurize the gas tube and check for air leaks at the gas block.  If you have major leaks of the block to barrel, the pull the block and make sure that there is not a ridge at the gas passage entrance that is not allowing the gas block to seal off tightly to the barrel gas port.

As for the gas block set screws once you have down the above, they have to be 272 loctite (red) in place, or they are going to come loose. If down the road you need to remove the gas block, use a old allen wrench in the set screw heads, and heat the wrench with a torch to heat transfer down the wrench to break the loctite bond (will smell a sweet smell as the loctite bond breaks down. Once the loctite bond has been broken down, the use a new wrench to remove the bolts (the old wrench  hardening will be lost when you glow the wrench to heat transfer down it).

Really, short of some nasty milling burs on the barrel extension or bolt, hot break-in ammo should not be needed if the rig and parts where assemblies correctly.

Granted that the anodized and parkerized surfaces are still in a new rough state that need to self polish in against each other to smooth the action out,  but just having the upper receiver bearing areas correctly lubed to begin with will resolve such.  Plus that fact that as such parts are self polishing against each other (additional powder fouling), the rig really needs to be cleaned a few times until you do reach say the initial 500k round mark.

Hammer wedging is not that common but easy to see if you have this problem since it will leave tell tale marks on the quick side.

Most of the time, its just the tail of the hammer that is too long, and begin wedged against the top of the trigger tail to leave dents or white lines.  
To solve this one, just take .030" off the end of the tail.

The other wedging problem is when the parts or receiver channels are not correctly produced, and instead of the tail of the hammer coming back to kiss the disco tail (acts like a buffer due to it spring), it will strike the back rounded part hook of the disco tail instead.  Here, you will have marks on the back hook section of the disco just before the disco tail isntead.