Photo is too small to see the modified area.

As for the Jard two stage trigger, should not need to modified from the start, so kind of lost why it was modified in the first place.

Hence it going to have the first stage creep take up until you hit the wall that should be right around a lb, then the second stage wall for zero creep before hammer release is adjusted via the set screw on the disco.


As for trigger take up if the trigger does not come with one, kind of a waste, since again it a two stage trigger, and you should have the Trigger creep until you hit the second stage wall.  But if needed, set screw up the pistol grip bolt solves that.


As for trigger over travel if the trigger does not come with one, still need that 1/8" over travel after hammer release since it a Semi auto rifle (to insure a good disco engagement once the hammer does come back), and most are close to that factory set anyways.  Worst case if you do have a country mile of over travel, then set screw in the Selector resolves the problem.


Truth is, if the rig is being set up for CMP, then a Jewel two stage is your best bet instead.  The reason for this, from the start you have to pass the 4.5lbs trigger pull test before a match, and with it spring leg cam wheel system for final break weight, makes short work of re-adjusting the trigger final pull weight isntead.  Hence you going to run the rig in practice, and may need to do a fine adjustment at the time of the trigger pull test to get it dailed back in to pass the test if it comes up light.


Note, don't get me wrong, since I like the Geissele service rifle triggers, but it, like the other trigger systems, requires you to pull the hammer to start tweaking on the hammer spring if it falls short of the 4.5lb pull test.  Hence the whole idea here, is that the trigger can not break short of the 4.5lb mark, so there has to be a quick way of adjusting the tension on the hammer spring that sets the final break weight. So on that note you looking for an adjustment system that allows to maintain that 4.6lbs break weight for the thousands of round the rig will see in practice and matches, without having to pull the hammer to do so.  Hence on the Jewel, you fail the pull test, see how much you failed by, shotgun the action open, set the spring leg up the needed amount of notches to get it back to 4.6lbs, lock the upper back down, and had the rifle right back for a retest on the spot.

It looking a lot more eviler that it really is.

That is the trigger over travel screw, and what you are seeing is the Epoxy that was used to lock it into place once it was set in the old receiver.
Simply, if smith set, then they will use an epoxy, instead of Blue 242 loctite, so the end user does not get a wild idea to go back in and play with the adjustments.

So Heat will break down the epoxy so it can be flaked off, and if the set screw head socket is too marred up once the epoxy is removed, then just replace the set screw with a new one. With the heat and the epoxy removed, you can just spin the  old set screw out  to replace it if needed (read the threads are fine in the trigger channel, and its just the epoxy now that has the set screw locked in place now.

As for the epoxy, its going to break down around 600*, so something like a micro torch will work to break down just the epoxy area, and not transfer so much heat to the sears on the trigger to start annealing them isntead.  If you don't have a micro torch, then solder iron will work just as well.