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Failure to fire in most case, is the rifle has not been correctly cleaned to start with, and the bolt is not fully locking up.

But lets just weed this out to start with, take a good look at the hammer spring, and make sure that the orientation of the Hammer spring is correctly.




Now lets gets back to what I think the problem is at hand, being that the bullet is embedding into the rifling on loading, or you have a nasty ring bur at the end of the chamber instead.


So step one, break out some Sweets copper cleaning solvent, a 22 cal brass brush, and give the barrel bore a good cleaning, ending up with pushing clean patches until the come out dry and clean with no hint of blue on them.
Note always work the chamber brush from the chamber to the muzzle and never shove a brush or cleaning rod down the muzzle isntead.

Next, break out a chamber brush with CLP and lets give the chamber a good scrubbing by hand, working the chamber brush not only in and out, but to twist it to get the inside of the barrel extension void a good scrubbing as well.  Once you have scrubbed the chamber clean, now use some Q tip to clean the barrel extension void, the face and what you can reach of the chamber, and then start pushing clean patch through the chamber and out the muzzle until they come out dry and clean.

So it not only the chamber and bore that we are trying to clean, but to knock off any ring burs from the chamber may have from the reamer as well.

Now with the safety on, the muzzle in a safe direction, load a live round into the chamber by pulling all the way back on the charging handle and letting it go, then cycle the live round back out.  Does this round still have the circular rings on the bullet at the base of the bullet ogive still?  

If no rings on the bullet, then the problem of the ring burs was solved with with the brush scrubbing.
Note, the bullet will have a scratch on it tip section, and this is normal since when you cycled the live round out, the ejector will cam the bullet off the right hand side lug edges once the tip of the bullet clears the chamber.  

If yes, then the upper/barrel has to be sent back to have the barrel replaced (or chamber cleaned up with a reamer if its not chrome lined).  The reason, the factory ammo should not embed into the rifling at loading, but instead have a slight jump to the lands when fired isntead. Hence the throat section of the chamber was cut way too short when reamed, or reamer left sharp ring ridges at the end of chamber cut/start of the rifling that is imprinting on the bullet isntead.


So what is happening, instead of the round loading cleanly, it's embedding into either the burs or the rifling, and this is preventing the bolt from fully locking up (face of the carrier tight against the face of the barrel extension).  With the bolt not locked up fully, then the tail of the bolt is not protruding out the back of the carrier for a clean hammer strike to cleanly drive it into the primer, but isntead,  when the hammer comes down to strike the FP, all the force of the FP is used to just try to get the bolt to lock up isntead (face of the carrier tight against the back of the barrel extension).  
Read by the time the  tip of the FP does reach the primer, it not hitting it hard enough to ignite the primer isntead.  

To see this problem, with B/C in hand, pull the bolt forward and look at the back of the carrier just in front of the firing pin and notice that the tail of the bolt is inside the carrier, and now mater how hard you push on the FP forward, your not going to get it to protrude out the bolt face.  Now push the bolt all the way back (how it will be when the bolt is fully locked up, and now you will see the tail of the bolt protruding out the back of the carrier, and when you push the FP forward, it protrudes out the face of the bolt isntead.  Hence this is safety feature of the rifle, being that until the bolt is fully locked up, the FP can not reach the primer.  Without this feature, then the rifle could fire with the bolt unlocked, and with the working pressure of the round being about 55K, would end up with the carrier ripping through the back of the rifle and embedding into your face isntead (out of battery ignition)..

No worries, and if you take a look at the photo I posted, the last of the chamber cut to the start of the throat, I suspect that this is where there is a ring bur/edge left proud at that edge, and where the bullet ring scrap marks are coming from.

If you look at reamer, will notice that is has this flat section that cuts this need of chamber case cut, and if the if the reamer is pushed into the barrel too fast, or gets to be on the worn side with the leading edge not longer sharp, will cause that last of chamber  cut ring bur.  Most of the time just the initial cleaning of the chamber with brushes will solve the problem, while other times the ring material is too thick to allow it to be brush snapped off isntead.




Really, on a production barrel, not uncommon to have small burs at the end of the chamber cut, the beginning of the rifling after the throat (sides of the lands), at the gas port and sometimes even at the crown as well (sides off the lands here as well).  Most of the time they are fine, since just get knocked off during the initial firing, or a few shots once the rifle has a few rounds fired from it.

Keep your eye on the problem and if the rings are still appearing on the bullets after  a box of ammo, then it time to send the barrel back to be corrected or replaced.  We know that the rings are somewhere in the throat of the barrel and with luck, it just a ring bur at the last chamber cut for the case that will knock off on it own, and not a problem in the chamber throat  with high ridges rings there isntead.