Pull the spring, and take a file to the tips of the end of coil winds to remove any burs/ slightly flush the end of coil wind tips so they are slightly below the inner and outer flats of the rest of the spring wind surface.  Next check the buffer bumper roll pin to make sure that is not proud of the side wall of the buffer as well (file or if one side of the pine is proud and the other inwards, use a punch to flush the pin to the sides of the buffer).

Next, take some some light grease (Vaseline will work) and every so lightly coat the spring, the outside of the buffer ,and the inside of the tube.

The inside of the tube is a rough, fresh anodized surface that in time will polish out via the spring moving across it, and the grease for now will keep the scrapping noise down as the inside of the buffer polishes out.  Also, since you are lubing with CLP, including the receiver extension parts, don't worry about having to remove the grease down the road.  The cleaning agent in the CLP will dissolve and remove the grease in a mater of a few cleanings.

As for the sprong of the spring during bolt lock up,in-brace it/learn to love it, since it will tell you when the rifle goes dry.  No sprong, and the bolt is locked back on the catch/you have fired the last round out of the mag, and it time to recharge it with a new mag, or now just have a club in your hands instead (spear/lance if you have a bayonet on the barrel instead ) .

Embrace the sproing!

CLP is going to migrate to the buffer parts when the rifle cycles.  As for CLP, it's real lubricating property is dry Teflon (why you need to shake CLP up), so the Wet Cleaning part of CLP will evaporate, leaving the Buffer parts dry and lubed with Teflon  in the end instead.



As for the light grease/Vaseline during break is, the buffer parts are going to self mate to each other during this time to polish out there surfaces, and such grease is only going to be in the Buffer parts short term anyways (read the cleaning agent in the CLP will dissolve the grease, and during cleaning when such parts are pulled and cleaned and re- CLP lubed, any remaining  Grease from break in will be removed pretty much in a few cleanings.


Bluntly, CLP is what you should be using to not only clean the rifle, but lube it as well (short of the bore itself, where Sweets will remove the copper fouling quickly without a lot of needed scrubbing).  And no, I don't call CLP oil, since it's a cleaning/rust protective agent really, with Teflon in it for a dry lube instead (why it does not need to be thick).