well, the proof's in the pudding, as we like to say.

was in a contact 2 days ago and the rifle ran without a hitch. everyone on the side of the angels came out ok.

no care packages as yet - don't know what's going on with the post.

stay safe all

skorp

Originally Posted By skorp: no care packages as yet - don't know what's going on with the post.

4 weeks, 1 day.

I'm not sure if the installation was the problem or the LMT barrel FSB was canted anyway. I'm inclined to think it was the latter. Either way, the problem no longer exists, thankfully

I hear you guys on the post issue - there's no rhyme nor reason to it, it appears.

skorp

Originally Posted By skorp: Guys Rec'd the care package today - 1x large yellow envelope with numerous goodies inside, including o-rings, brushes, muzzle caps, springs, 1/16th punch, amongst other things.

Thats not the one I sent, a week before he sent that one. Mine should be a plain white envelope with 40 O-rings in it, in a priority USPS outer envelope.

CavVet - er, that's a problem. It may still turn up. The APO system is not 100% reliable and other guys have complained of stuff going missing (i.e. never arriving) and this happens for a myriad of reasons. I've never had a problem (touch my wooden head), however, so fingers crossed.

Tweak - we could certainly use some basic gunsmithing tools, since leatherman and improvised stuff is currently the entire toolbox. Some advice on how to best secure the complete uppers in a vice (gotta find one of those too), without damaging them, since FSBs need to be removed, gas tubes and rails changed, etc. would also be appreciated.

Another question - can you recommend a good 'flat top' front gas block. A few of us would like to go to flip-up, detachable front sights?

Thanks again guys

CavVet, I'll keep you posted

Skorp

End date probably around April 06, unless we work ourselves into more work....er, or the place goes completely pear-shaped.

thanks for the improv tips.

skorp

tweak - thanks mate. got your im and have replied

thanks very much tumbleweed and paul, for your generosity - the gear will surely get put to good use as we have a fair way to go here.

CavVet

Got the o-rings yesterday, mate - envelope finally arrived. Thanks very much indeed - they'll be put to good use.

cheers, skorp

tweak

thanks mate - I'm sure all of it will....

will keep you advised on arrival

cheers

skorp

stubbies run just fine when all things are perfect or damn close to it, fiddling with the gas system isn't an option for skorp

You need a chrome lined barrel. If you do not have one you are not going to be 100% unless you are really lucky. The military learned that lesson back in the early days of the Vietnam War. If you now have a chrome lined barrel and are having failure to extract problems then you need to trade weapons and have that one looked at by a qualified armorer. The value of a chrome lined barrel is especially important if when you are going to fire a lot or fast. Good luck.

Failure to eject on a Bushmaster AR15 (model: XM15-E2S 14.5"bbl). Rifle belongs to a friend of mine. He was firing UMC 45 gr range ammo. (I know it's too light for the 1:9 twist and told him so, however I don't think that has anything to do with the issue at hand ... or does it?)

Anyway, I borrowed the rifle a few weeks ago and was firing Black Hills 68gr BTHPs. The rifle was extracting but not ejecting on the last round (it was locking back properly though on the last round). When my friend was firing it the other day, he said it was extracting properly but failing to eject on every shot (causing a jam when trying to feed the next round). At one point he said he had a jam with two live rounds in the chamber.

I have taken his rifle into my care (he knows even less than I do .... quote: "The rifle comes apart?"). I amgoing to start at square one. I am cleaning the rifle exactly like I was taught in the USMC with the added step of removing the ejector pin and spring for a more thorough cleaning.

The only anomally I noted was in the gas rings. While looking straight down the bolt from the rear, I could see daylight between the rings and the bolt while pushing on the rings. Is there supposed to be this much play in the rings? Could this affect the extraction/ejection? I only mention it because there does seem to be more play than the rings in my Wilson Combat M4.

When I fired this rifle a few weeks ago, I gave it a basic cleaning and light lubrication so I didn't think fouling was the cause of my ejcetion problems. Any ideas or suggestions in case the thorough cleaning doesn't help would be appreciated.

Please remember, I am a newbie here (I saw some of the postings about "O-rings" and saw a picture of one on an extractor, though I have no idea how that works or how it helps). I apologize in advance in case this question has been asked a million times before (I am sure it has). I thought this thread would be appropriate enough. A nudge (links?) in the right direction would be appreciated as much as a reply. Thank you.

@Boat_Tail,
I had almost the exact problem your friend is having with a new CMT bolt. The EXTRACTOR spring was way too weak. It would hold onto the case long enough to usually pull it out of the chamber, but it could not hold the brass tight enough against the ejector for it to be kicked out (hence the brass being left in the gun & being double-fed).

Pick up a new extractor spring assembly. It's a small spring with either a blue or black plastic/rubber piece in the middle. I also picked up one of those black rubber extractor rings (D-Fender), and that bolt has been running 100% since. Before switching out that $1.50 spring, my rifle couldn't fire more than a couple rounds before jamming, sometimes it was almost every round. IMHO, you can't have too much tension on the extractor and mine has been running great with both parts listed below.

Brownells Extractor Spring Assembly

(this picture doesn't show the blue rubber insert that goes inside the spring, but it does come with it)


MGI D-Fender Extractor Ring