This is my first build, so maybe my expectations are off, but I would think the roll pin should not be this tight. I have to hammer it just to get it started, I cannot push it in by hand at all. So I tried hammering it in and I couldn't get it past the first hole and into the guard. I don't want to break anything so I tapped it back out and decided to ask for help...

They are suppose to be tight, I have to tap all of mine in, I use a plastic reloading hammer I have to get mine in, check your ears to make sure you don't have any burrs or flash around the inside of the hole, also oil or put a small dab of grease on the pin before you tap in.

I have also had to use a needle file on the roll pin so it will start into the hole easier.

Okay, I got it to squeeze in. Just worried it was too big. (And that's what she said).

Depending on the quality of the lower parts kit or if the lower receiver was made to spec, these can sometimes be tight.

The key is to use a roll pin holder punch, bevel the edges of the pin, and apply a little lube (oil or grease, whatever is handy) and to FIRMLY support both ears.  People break those off by nut fully supporting the little ears.  I have a small block of wood I use for this, then come down sharply with a hammer.  Some are just worse than others.  It is very normal for these to be tight.

If you use a roll pin start punch, or a flat punch, you can often damage the end of the pin before it gets rolling.  This is why I use a roll pin holder punch to drive it the majority of the way, then finish with a properly sized roll pin punch.



Generally - what you care about is the bolt catch.  Before assembling - you should pass the roll pin through the bolt catch.  If it does not pass through easily, it will cause the bolt catch to hang up once installed and require a break in period before it will work as designed.  There used to be lots of LPK's with out of spec bolt catch holes, and oversized pins (Palmetto State Armory in particular) but that doesnt seem as common anymore.

Regardless, I always test this before installing any bolt catch.

For installing the pin, there save a lot of time and limit damage risk:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B3NU46C?tag=vglnk-c102-20

But for years I used this (even though they are really short and having a long punch reduces damage risk and makes it easier:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QO2XGRW?tag=vglnk-c102-20

The idea is that the roll pin will squeeze down on installation and the tension will keep it in place, hence they all feel to big when you start.

I've always having problems with the roll pin on a trigger guard. You can bevel the edge slightly with a file and apply a little bit of oil and it'll ease things slightly.

i give one end a little squeeze with some vice grips and then tap it slightly to start it...add a little oil to it and tap it in with a punch and hammer

Andersen LPK?
Surprised you got it to fit.

I have built 19 guns and have not had any more problems with Anderson's than with any other LPK, the way the pin is designed on the .mil spec LPK makes it a bit difficult to install just like any other roll pin in any other application.

Yup, Anderson. The roll pin was rolled around like three times and appeared welded on the outside edge. It didn't have much give to it like a normal roll pin. I'm surprised it went in too.

I would be interested in seeing a picture of that roll pin from the end, I have never seen one like that..

Attached File


Did it look like these?

Sounds like a coil pin.

I dislike those bastards.

OP, sounds like you have yours installed already.
In the future, be sure to support the ears on the lower  (where the trigger guard pin goes), many end up breaking them off. Bad day.

I always install my trigger guard before I install the LPK that way I can put a small piece of wood in to support the ears on the lower to install the trigger guard.

Yes, exactly like those, but blued. I also bought the Anderson spare parts kit (thank goodness I did), and it has a second one that I could take a picture of, but it looks just like those.

Another interesting thing about the Anderson LPK was the buffer retainer spring was too long (or the hole not deep enough), and I had to trim spring just to be able to screw on my anti-tilt receiver extension (buffer tube). Also, I had to trim the safety selector grip spring because the safety was very difficult to move. The front and rear takedown pins are also difficult and probably could have benefited from trimming those springs too, but they might wear in okay.

I don’t think I have ever had a trigger guard pin that was not relatively difficult.
I hammered them in for many years, but a few years back switched to clamping tool with a roll pin tip.

They can be testy and if not installed properly, you can break the "ear" that it goes into to hold the trigger guard..........I don't have a problem driving them in ......but in the last several builds I just switched to using magpul trigger guards with the brass inserts...............they look better than the standard guard and install without fear of damage

I also just run a 6/32 tap or 8/32 tap through the ears and the trigger guard. I just use the set screws on both sides and have never had a problem.  I also file one end of the roll pin down to the point where it will fit through the trigger guard hole then tap it in when using roll pins.