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Posted: 7/23/2016 5:27:30 AM EDT
[#1]
The diameter of the barrel blocks needs to be slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the barrel.
That being said, no mere mortal is going to crush that barrel. |
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Posted: 7/23/2016 5:56:42 AM EDT
[#2]
See above.
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Posted: 7/23/2016 6:14:05 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The diameter of the barrel blocks needs to be slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the barrel. That being said, no mere mortal is going to crush that barrel. ... but what if you're REALLY strong? Like GD strong? |
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Posted: 7/23/2016 8:18:12 AM EDT
[#4]
It would take a 4 ft pipe to generated that torque
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Posted: 7/23/2016 8:39:20 AM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
I am worried my vise will crush the barrel or change the inner diameter. I am using wooden vise blocks and the barrel has been spinning. I'm going to try powdered sugar or rosin (read this tip on AR15.com) but how tight should the vise be? I only crank it down slightly. sort of afraid the barrel will crush. Thank you for the help! use aluminum barrel blocks and you wont have a problem. (aluminum has better purchase than wood and is softer than the steel..) if you're concerned about the aluminum transfer, a scouring pad will remove it. honestly, you just dont understand how strong that barrel is.. |
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Posted: 7/23/2016 8:40:02 AM EDT
[#6]
I'm no materials engineer, but it seems like the wooden blocks would compress before the steel barrel
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Posted: 7/23/2016 10:21:35 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm no materials engineer, but it seems like the wooden blocks would compress before the steel barrel This ^^^ If you had the actual barrel in the vise and it was a big enough vise, it could slightly deform the barrel if you applied enough leverage. If you are using aluminum, wood, plastic or anything else softer than the barrel, that material will deform. Clean the barrel with alcohol where you will be putting it in the blocks and use a PC of bicycle tube or even one of those grippy jar lid openers to hold the barrel inside the wood blocks. |
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Posted: 7/23/2016 12:36:37 PM EDT
[#8]
No mere mortal is going to wreck a barrel in a vise with block on it, I crank them down hard and have never crushed a barrel, the wood deforms before the barrel ever will, I am using a 5.5 in vise that the handle on is over a foot long, believe me you are not going to crush a barrel, those suckers are way harder than you think!
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Posted: 7/23/2016 5:18:11 PM EDT
[#9]
Wrap it in a bath towel and clamp away. It's not fragile.
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Posted: 7/23/2016 7:00:52 PM EDT
[#10]
Thanks for the advice everyone. I will feel less scared about damaging it now.
I would get the aluminum barrel blocks but one problem is that they wont fit on my 7 inch barrel properly. It's one of the HBAR profile and it has a slight taper / curvature all down it so that normal blocks for a rifle wont fit. |
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Posted: 7/24/2016 8:53:06 AM EDT
[#11]
I would like to add that the aluminum upper and lower receiver of an AR are a completely different situation and in order to properly secure the upper or lower, you should invest in the proper tools.
you can completely destroy an AR's upper and lower receiver with minimal force.. (compared to what it would take to mess up a barrel) |
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Posted: 7/24/2016 9:05:16 AM EDT
[#12]
The flip side is if you don't get it tight enough....you will booger up the finish if the barrel slips in the blocks.
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Posted: 7/24/2016 10:29:04 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The flip side is if you don't get it tight enough....you will booger up the finish if the barrel slips in the blocks. And all it takes is some elbow grease to get the aluminum smudges out of the steel. Been there, done that. I use a special no-slip material called Dycem in my aluminum barrel blocks, but there are all sorts of ways to keep the barrel from slipping in the blocks. |
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Posted: 7/24/2016 9:53:59 PM EDT
[#14]
I've got a rosin bag that I use to help the barrel from slipping.
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Posted: 7/24/2016 11:12:48 PM EDT
[#15]
really? you think you can damage a barrel by squeezing it with wood?
as a example when removing a barrel from a bolt gun, say a Rem 700, steel blocks and a hydraulic press in the thousands of PSI are the norm. you can't hurt your barrel, other than skinning it up, with a bench vise. because I have them, I use motorcycle handlebar clamps, either 1" (the size over most chambers) or 7/8" which is .875" to hold the barrel. in before someone recommends a a reaction rod, don't do it. |
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Posted: 7/25/2016 5:46:57 PM EDT
[#16]
The physics says you'll break your vise (the tightening lever, the screw, or more likely the vise jaw itself) before you do anything the barrel will even notice...
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Posted: 7/26/2016 5:31:30 PM EDT
[#17]
Get a barrel rod:
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Posted: 7/26/2016 5:50:22 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryThere are better options. |
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Posted: 7/26/2016 6:02:45 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
And all it takes is some elbow grease to get the aluminum smudges out of the steel. Been there, done that. I use a special no-slip material called Dycem in my aluminum barrel blocks, but there are all sorts of ways to keep the barrel from slipping in the blocks. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
The flip side is if you don't get it tight enough....you will booger up the finish if the barrel slips in the blocks. And all it takes is some elbow grease to get the aluminum smudges out of the steel. Been there, done that. I use a special no-slip material called Dycem in my aluminum barrel blocks, but there are all sorts of ways to keep the barrel from slipping in the blocks. Thanks for the tip. Ordered a free sample of the Dycem to use. I've used bicycle inner tube and it slips occasionally in my Bushmaster block so I'll try the Dycem. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 7/26/2016 6:48:18 PM EDT
[#20]
I've found that wrapping the barrel in newspaper helps. And yes, you will break the vise before damaging the barrel.
I've got a pair of Brownells blocks, and I'm actually contemplating cutting them down with a band saw so that they will fit the contour of a govt. profile barrel better. |
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Posted: 7/26/2016 7:14:03 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks for the tip. Ordered a free sample of the Dycem to use. I've used bicycle inner tube and it slips occasionally in my Bushmaster block so I'll try the Dycem. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
The flip side is if you don't get it tight enough....you will booger up the finish if the barrel slips in the blocks. And all it takes is some elbow grease to get the aluminum smudges out of the steel. Been there, done that. I use a special no-slip material called Dycem in my aluminum barrel blocks, but there are all sorts of ways to keep the barrel from slipping in the blocks. Thanks for the tip. Ordered a free sample of the Dycem to use. I've used bicycle inner tube and it slips occasionally in my Bushmaster block so I'll try the Dycem. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Thanks 2. I also ordered the free sample of Dycem. |
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Posted: 7/26/2016 7:23:40 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks for the tip. Ordered a free sample of the Dycem to use. I've used bicycle inner tube and it slips occasionally in my Bushmaster block so I'll try the Dycem. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
The flip side is if you don't get it tight enough....you will booger up the finish if the barrel slips in the blocks. And all it takes is some elbow grease to get the aluminum smudges out of the steel. Been there, done that. I use a special no-slip material called Dycem in my aluminum barrel blocks, but there are all sorts of ways to keep the barrel from slipping in the blocks. Thanks for the tip. Ordered a free sample of the Dycem to use. I've used bicycle inner tube and it slips occasionally in my Bushmaster block so I'll try the Dycem. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile You still need to make sure the vise jaw grooves "fit" the barrel. Mine have .75" grooves, so most barrels need some extra "beef" to fill the grooves, even with Dycem. |
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Posted: 7/30/2016 11:03:05 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've found that wrapping the barrel in newspaper helps. And yes, you will break the vise before damaging the barrel. I've got a pair of Brownells blocks, and I'm actually contemplating cutting them down with a band saw so that they will fit the contour of a govt. profile barrel better. |
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