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Posted: 4/30/2016 4:42:56 PM EDT
[#1]
Have used Modulus Arms with great success. Well designed, Well built. Easy to use. I used a laminate router and it was more than capable. For me, the hardest part was using a handheld drill (vs. a drill prease/ xyz table). Wasn't really hard, just slow going. Good luck.
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Posted: 4/30/2016 7:22:04 PM EDT
[#2]
The newer Modulus all steel jig has a wider table that should help greatly.
I like the idea so much I'm going to sell my current Modulus jig and get the new one. 
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Posted: 4/30/2016 7:26:27 PM EDT
[#3]
Quoted:
First off, they intrigue me. I have watched several videos and done my research....my question...I have a 7 amp Ryobi router(large size) and I have access to a drill press. ...questions 1) Is there one particular jig you have tried personally and with good success you would recommend that would work with the above tools? 2) If using a larger router, do they come with some type of platform to keep the jig level? 3) I would be interested in a universal jig assuming one exists.... Help me narrow.....it seems like there are a multitude of jig companies.... THANKS! I would recommend the Modulus Arms HD Jig. I've completed several lowers with mine and it works well. I have a Makita trim router. They do not recommend full size routers, although it could probably be done. One reason besides it being more difficult to use a big router on the platform that is on the jig, the trim routers come with a 1/4" collet and that is the shank size of the end mill that is normally used. Most full size routers come with a 3/8" collet so you'd have to get some kind of adapter collet to use the 1/4" end mill. |
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Posted: 4/30/2016 7:58:14 PM EDT
[#4]
Here's my vote for Stealth Arms. I've built 4 AR 80% lowers and 3 1911's all using their jigs, a drill press and a router.
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Posted: 5/1/2016 5:08:25 AM EDT
[#5]
I use the Modulous Arms jig also with a Dewalt model 611 router. Both are definitely worth the investment. This jig should work fine with the larger router as well if you can figure out the collet issue or find an end mill in the larger size.
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Posted: 5/1/2016 5:09:34 AM EDT
[#6]
double post fail
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Posted: 5/1/2016 11:21:53 AM EDT
[#7]
Most full size routers come with a 3/8" collet so you'd have to get some kind of adapter collet to use the 1/4" end mill. Actually most full size routers come with a 1/2" as well as a 1/4" collet, many of the cheaper ones come with only a 1/4" collet. I've not seen a 3/8" collet router in my long carreer as a woodworker. |
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Posted: 5/1/2016 11:31:10 AM EDT
[#8]
Another vote for the Modulus jig. But then again I may be prejudice because I work for them :)
If you have any questions regarding our jig, I would be more than happy to answer them for you. HD Jig |
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Posted: 5/1/2016 12:33:29 PM EDT
[#9]
It is a great hobby, but if you are doing it to save time or money.......don't.
I can have a stripped upper in 15 minutes for about $60 Or I can use my 500 dollar mini mill with jigs, end mills, tooling, etc. and have a lower a few hours later...If I don't screw it up! :) |
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Posted: 5/1/2016 9:26:35 PM EDT
[#10]
I thought it would kind of be neat to have a couple lowers under the radar...and a hobby thing...but...
Someone mentioned that the standard size router might be too big...do you all concur? THANKS |
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Posted: 5/1/2016 10:18:28 PM EDT
[#11]
I think a full sized router would be harder to keep square with the top of the jig.
BTW, the reason I'm doing "80%" lowers has nothing to do with flying under the radar or paranoia. I prefer the "clean" look of no markings or logos. |
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Posted: 5/1/2016 10:46:32 PM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
First off, they intrigue me. I have watched several videos and done my research....my question...I have a 7 amp Ryobi router(large size) and I have access to a drill press. ...questions 1) Is there one particular jig you have tried personally and with good success you would recommend that would work with the above tools? 2) If using a larger router, do they come with some type of platform to keep the jig level? 3) I would be interested in a universal jig assuming one exists.... Help me narrow.....it seems like there are a multitude of jig companies.... THANKS! 1) yes, the 80% Arms easy jig. I don't recommend a small trim router for any jig. 2) yes, again I don't recommend the small trim routers 3) see #1 |
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Posted: 5/2/2016 12:19:35 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Actually most full size routers come with a 1/2" as well as a 1/4" collet, many of the cheaper ones come with only a 1/4" collet. I've not seen a 3/8" collet router in my long carreer as a woodworker. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Most full size routers come with a 3/8" collet so you'd have to get some kind of adapter collet to use the 1/4" end mill. Actually most full size routers come with a 1/2" as well as a 1/4" collet, many of the cheaper ones come with only a 1/4" collet. I've not seen a 3/8" collet router in my long carreer as a woodworker. I guess my old full size Bosch is a weird one then. It came with 1/2" and 3/8". The bits that came with it were all 3/8". |
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Posted: 5/2/2016 12:48:32 PM EDT
[#14]
+1 on Modulus Arms. With a drill press and laminate router it takes nothing to get a great result.
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Have used Modulus Arms with great success. Well designed, Well built. Easy to use. I used a laminate router and it was more than capable. For me, the hardest part was using a handheld drill (vs. a drill prease/ xyz table). Wasn't really hard, just slow going. Good luck. |
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Posted: 5/2/2016 2:01:07 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I think a full sized router would be harder to keep square with the top of the jig. BTW, the reason I'm doing "80%" lowers has nothing to do with flying under the radar or paranoia. I prefer the "clean" look of no markings or logos. I can appreciate that given some of the butt-fugly rollmarks some makers use... But the reason I like 80% is the satisfaction of DIY plus just because I can. It is a big FU to the gun controllers. The fact that they hate that there are "ghosts" out in the wild makes me happy. |
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Posted: 5/2/2016 2:56:27 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
1) yes, the 80% Arms easy jig. I don't recommend a small trim router for any jig. 2) yes, again I don't recommend the small trim routers 3) see #1 Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
First off, they intrigue me. I have watched several videos and done my research....my question...I have a 7 amp Ryobi router(large size) and I have access to a drill press. ...questions 1) Is there one particular jig you have tried personally and with good success you would recommend that would work with the above tools? 2) If using a larger router, do they come with some type of platform to keep the jig level? 3) I would be interested in a universal jig assuming one exists.... Help me narrow.....it seems like there are a multitude of jig companies.... THANKS! 1) yes, the 80% Arms easy jig. I don't recommend a small trim router for any jig. 2) yes, again I don't recommend the small trim routers 3) see #1 What don't you like about small trim routers? The Makita I've got works great. I've finished several lowers with it, poly, forged and billet and haven't had a problem. It is a lot lighter and easier to work with than a full size router. |
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Posted: 5/2/2016 5:54:47 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What don't you like about small trim routers? The Makita I've got works great. I've finished several lowers with it, poly, forged and billet and haven't had a problem. It is a lot lighter and easier to work with than a full size router. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
First off, they intrigue me. I have watched several videos and done my research....my question...I have a 7 amp Ryobi router(large size) and I have access to a drill press. ...questions 1) Is there one particular jig you have tried personally and with good success you would recommend that would work with the above tools? 2) If using a larger router, do they come with some type of platform to keep the jig level? 3) I would be interested in a universal jig assuming one exists.... Help me narrow.....it seems like there are a multitude of jig companies.... THANKS! 1) yes, the 80% Arms easy jig. I don't recommend a small trim router for any jig. 2) yes, again I don't recommend the small trim routers 3) see #1 What don't you like about small trim routers? The Makita I've got works great. I've finished several lowers with it, poly, forged and billet and haven't had a problem. It is a lot lighter and easier to work with than a full size router. I've done over a dozen with the easy jig, I used the ridged trim router and the De Walt trim router that all the jig sellers suggest. The depth adjustments on both of those sucked, the motor on the De walt burned up before I could complete one lower. I switched to the large Ridgid that HD sales for 160.00 (1/4" collet and adjustable speed) and went problem free from there.. These things are for cutting wood, why use one with less power when your going to cut aluminum, its doesn't make sense. Why would you think lighter is better? |
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Posted: 5/2/2016 10:09:57 PM EDT
[#18]
Bottom line a normal size router will work....correct?
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Posted: 5/3/2016 12:29:38 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Bottom line a normal size router will work....correct? Will it work...yes, but it's not ideal for the job and if you ruin your jig I wouldn't expect the manufacturer to warranty it as these jigs were all designed with a trim router in mind. Kind of how you can drive a nail with a sledgehammer, but a normal claw works a lot better. |
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Posted: 5/3/2016 12:56:41 AM EDT
[#20]
If you are going to use a normal router I suggest mounting it in a router table. That way you hold the jigged lower and move that instead of trying to move a heavy router around.
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Posted: 5/3/2016 11:33:40 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've done over a dozen with the easy jig, I used the ridged trim router and the De Walt trim router that all the jig sellers suggest. The depth adjustments on both of those sucked... Which Ridgid were you using? What issues were you having with it? I personally use the R24012 and I think that it has one of the best depth controls of any of the routers out there. We (Modulus) have tested many routers and highly recommend the R24012. |
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Posted: 5/3/2016 1:30:02 PM EDT
[#22]
I've completed two lowers with a $35 Ryobi pawnshop router and it helded up enough. Which ever one you go with get one that has a light. I don't know if most have a light but I found the light helped in my low level light garage.
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Posted: 5/3/2016 6:49:38 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Which Ridgid were you using? What issues were you having with it? I personally use the R24012 and I think that it has one of the best depth controls of any of the routers out there. We (Modulus) have tested many routers and highly recommend the R24012. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I've done over a dozen with the easy jig, I used the ridged trim router and the De Walt trim router that all the jig sellers suggest. The depth adjustments on both of those sucked... Which Ridgid were you using? What issues were you having with it? I personally use the R24012 and I think that it has one of the best depth controls of any of the routers out there. We (Modulus) have tested many routers and highly recommend the R24012. The first router I used was the R2412, the collet kept dropping because the depth adjuster wasn't tight enough. I adjusted that ( adjuster nut on the clamp) but it kept failing. We know the end mill wants to pull everything down when its spinning. IIRC, I then took it back to HD, got a credit and used that to buy the DeWalt DWP611PK from HD's online store because they don't stock it locally. I had the same issues with it that I did with the Ridgid, after a couple hrs of using the DW it just froze up, the motor was fried. I took the DW back to HD and bought the Ridgid R22002, so now I have 1/2 hp more power and a lower range RPM. The heavier machine is actually easier to control and I have much less chatter. I wasn't new to power tools but I was new to cutting metal with a tool designed for wood. I'd bet that If you tried it you would agree. then maybe not:) I'm sure some of the new trim routers are better then some of the full size routers so maybe I'm out of line saying the full size routers are better. I should just stick to my own experience. I haven't used the Modulus jig so I might be comparing apples to oranges. I also don't plan on using any of them again. I've completed all the lowers I need and passed all the tools to my nephews. |
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Posted: 5/4/2016 11:33:26 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've done over a dozen with the easy jig, I used the ridged trim router and the De Walt trim router that all the jig sellers suggest. The depth adjustments on both of those sucked, the motor on the De walt burned up before I could complete one lower. Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've done over a dozen with the easy jig, I used the ridged trim router and the De Walt trim router that all the jig sellers suggest. The depth adjustments on both of those sucked, the motor on the De walt burned up before I could complete one lower. I've done a 1/2 dozen lowers with my Makita and the Modulus jigs and it is still going strong. I have no doubt that my trim router will handle all the rest of the lowers I intend to finish. I would suspect that your DeWalt was just defective. You could have just as easily gotten a defective full size router. I switched to the large Ridgid that HD sales for 160.00 (1/4" collet and adjustable speed) and went problem free from there.. These things are for cutting wood, why use one with less power when your going to cut aluminum, its doesn't make sense. Normally I'd agree that more power == better... but the little Makita that I have provides more than enough power. It has no problem maintaining cutting speed with the 1/4" end mill even in 7075. 6061 billet lowers and poly are real easy. Why would you think lighter is better? Easier to handle and control. The old full size router I have would be a real handful trying to manipulate on top of a jig. |
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Posted: 5/4/2016 3:04:31 PM EDT
[#25]
I just finished my second 80% last night with my Dewalt 611 trim router and Modulus Arms jig. I personally have had no issues at all with the Dewalt router and the finish I get is awesome. I love the simplicity of the depth adjustment. It makes these tedious projects move along a little faster. The first one I did I ran the router at a higher speed due to inexperience and it chattered a little causing a slightly rougher finish but it's nothing I'd be embarrassed of. I learned on this second one to run a little slower (#3 on speed adjuster) and generally work slower keeping a firm grasp down low on the router. This gave me fantastic results. Also when drilling the safety selector and trigger/hammer pins I use a small magnetic level on the steel jig side plates to level it before drilling which gave me a super tight fit for said parts when assembled. Patience is key with this, especially when your starting out. Take your time and learn to read your tools and the signs they are giving you.
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Posted: 5/4/2016 10:50:54 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I just finished my second 80% last night with my Dewalt 611 trim router and Modulus Arms jig. I personally have had no issues at all with the Dewalt router and the finish I get is awesome. I love the simplicity of the depth adjustment. It makes these tedious projects move along a little faster. The first one I did I ran the router at a higher speed due to inexperience and it chattered a little causing a slightly rougher finish but it's nothing I'd be embarrassed of. I learned on this second one to run a little slower (#3 on speed adjuster) and generally work slower keeping a firm grasp down low on the router. This gave me fantastic results. Also when drilling the safety selector and trigger/hammer pins I use a small magnetic level on the steel jig side plates to level it before drilling which gave me a super tight fit for said parts when assembled. Patience is key with this, especially when your starting out. Take your time and learn to read your tools and the signs they are giving you. Good post Rdot.. Getting the feel is most important. |
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Posted: 5/5/2016 2:59:52 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I can appreciate that given some of the butt-fugly rollmarks some makers use... But the reason I like 80% is the satisfaction of DIY plus just because I can. It is a big FU to the gun controllers. The fact that they hate that there are "ghosts" out in the wild makes me happy. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I think a full sized router would be harder to keep square with the top of the jig. BTW, the reason I'm doing "80%" lowers has nothing to do with flying under the radar or paranoia. I prefer the "clean" look of no markings or logos. I can appreciate that given some of the butt-fugly rollmarks some makers use... But the reason I like 80% is the satisfaction of DIY plus just because I can. It is a big FU to the gun controllers. The fact that they hate that there are "ghosts" out in the wild makes me happy. I like the clean look of 100% sterile lowers too. I cannot stand most of the gimmicky roll-marks the companies use to stand out. The one I despise the most is the Spike's Tactical "Dueling Dicks" (Spider) I only have three AR's with factory lowers, one is my Truck gun and the other is my bedside HD Rifle and I have a DPMS .308. The rest are completely sterile. |
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Posted: 5/5/2016 3:46:24 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Good post Rdot.. Getting the feel is most important. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I just finished my second 80% last night with my Dewalt 611 trim router and Modulus Arms jig. I personally have had no issues at all with the Dewalt router and the finish I get is awesome. I love the simplicity of the depth adjustment. It makes these tedious projects move along a little faster. The first one I did I ran the router at a higher speed due to inexperience and it chattered a little causing a slightly rougher finish but it's nothing I'd be embarrassed of. I learned on this second one to run a little slower (#3 on speed adjuster) and generally work slower keeping a firm grasp down low on the router. This gave me fantastic results. Also when drilling the safety selector and trigger/hammer pins I use a small magnetic level on the steel jig side plates to level it before drilling which gave me a super tight fit for said parts when assembled. Patience is key with this, especially when your starting out. Take your time and learn to read your tools and the signs they are giving you. Good post Rdot.. Getting the feel is most important. Thank you. It always helps to get little pieces of advice from someone else's learning experience. If I can help one other person to achieve success then I have paid back what y'all have done for me. I purchased my first AR at the end of December and I am now half way through my second build on my first completed 80% receiver. Thank you to everyone on these boards with the intent of helping others. |
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Posted: 5/5/2016 7:53:43 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Snip** Thank you. It always helps to get little pieces of advice from someone else's learning experience. If I can help one other person to achieve success then I have paid back what y'all have done for me. I purchased my first AR at the end of December and I am now half way through my second build on my first completed 80% receiver. Thank you to everyone on these boards with the intent of helping others. Most of us are here to help and to learn more ourselves. You should also check your hometown forum. If you're near the ohio line, hit me up, be more than happy to help. |
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