Rogers Super Stock will work with either mil-spec or commercial tubes. They lock up tight and are fairly light. Also only ~$80. I have 2 and I really like them. Eventually all my adjustable stock rifles will have them (except my IDF and Block 2 SOPMOD clones).

As a member of this forum for quite a number of years, it's been a long while since I posted.  I do have quite a lot of experience building ARs.  And unfortunately for readers of this thread I have quite a lot of opinions concerning AR builds.

#1 Barrel extensions and barrel nuts.  Before you even start torquing a barrel nut down, run down the barrel nut on the upper by hand a few times just to be sure there aren't any anodizing burrs on the upper's threads.  You may use lubrication here, if you desire.  Be assured whatever lube you use will be cleaned off after.  I like to use non-chlorinated brake cleaner to degrease or de-oil parts.  For final assembly, I use LOCTITE LB 8065 Copper Grade Anti-Seize Stick.  Copper works amazingly well as an interface between aluminum and steel.  If you have aluminum wheels on you car, this same anti-seize works well on lug studs. Back to ARs.  Don't use any kind of thread-locker here.  It won't work.  While a quality thread locker will act as an anti-seize for the first round or two.  After that, the thread-locker just liquefies and looses it's thread locking abilities.  Same goes for muzzle devices.   Spread a bit of the LOCTITE LB 8065 (a different product is used for muzzle devices) over the entire surface of the barrel extension that gets inserted into the upper.  Then, put a stripe of the anti-seize on the top and bottom of the upper receiver threads or the barrel nut.  A little bit goes a long way.  Don't forget to put a bit of anti-seize on the barrel extension flange where the barrel nut interfaces with the barrel.  It's important to put something on the barrel extension and the barrel nut.  You end up with a piece of aluminum sandwiched between two pieces of steel.  Typically, aluminum and steel don't play well together without galling or electrolysis or both, especially where high heat is involved.  I used to use a torque wrench to cinch up the barrel nut, but found that considerable adjustment was necessary to get the nut to align to the gas tube hole.  Now I just lightly tighten the nut then cinch it down to the next notch on the barrel nut that aligns well.

#2 Torque wrenches.  Most folks that insist on using a torque wrench for the barrel nut are using the wrench incorrectly.  Folks using a click type torque wrench are at a disadvantage over those other folks using a cheap beam type torque wrench with a "tell tale".  Because the click type torque wrench has a ratcheting head and the beam type has a fixed square head.  Have you ever noticed when you use the proper adapter on a ratcheting torque wrench the adapter wants to flop all around the 360 degrees of the ratchet head.  I don't think I've ever seen a person on YouTube using a torque wrench to torque a barrel nut correctly.  It's easier to envision the proper technique using the beam type torque wrench.  On the beam type torque wrench notice the handle kinda flops around with only a pin attaching the handle to the rest of the torque wrench.  A user must keep the torque wrench handle bearing on the pin for the torque wrench scale to be accurate.  Do not tilt the handle either forward or backward such that the handle bears on the beam, only on the pin.  BTW, beam type torque wrenches are amazingly accurate, when used correctly.  The scale on the wrench is a precise calibration between the center of the pin on the handle and the center of the lug on the head.  When using a socket, you'll have no issues because the center of the socket is the same as the center of the lug.  On the AR, the center of the adapter wrench is not the center of the lug.  It's off by at least a couple of inches.  There's a calculation where a person could figure out the actual torque being applied.  That is if a person knew the actual angle the adapter was at.  On the beam type wrench a user only has 4 choices.  Straight out the top of the wrench.  A user would have to measure the center of the lug on the wrench to the center of the pin array.  Then apply that measurement to the formula to deduce the actual torque being applied.  Straight down won't work because the barrel is in the way.  At either 90 degree angles to the wrench the scale reading will be very very close to actual torque applied.  An error of 1 or 2 percent is probably present this way, but I ignore errors that small.  Using a click type torque, I'd tape the adapter to as close to 90 degrees as possible.  Also, don't choke up or down on the torque wrench, it'll change the torque applied.  Additionally, when the wrench clicks, stop turning.  Not “click” then an extra grunt.

#3 Mil Spec.  I'm not sure just exactly what mil spec means any more.  AFAIK the only instance where any military unit bought semi-auto ARs is the very first Air Force contract (AR15 in fact) which was before the Army adopted the M16, which, of course was select fire.  A year ago I needed a LPK.  I went to my LGS, where the only kit they had was a CMMG kit.  I asked the guy if it was a good kit.  He replied that it was mil spec.  The CMMG LPK sure wasn't anything like the innards of the Air Force AR15  I shot in the early 70's.  Obviously, lowers can't be mil spec.  No third pin hole and a lot of material inside such that a select fire FC parts that can't be installed.  Don't even get me started on the barrels.  

Tired of typing, I'll leave anymore for later.

Oh, I almost forgot, Rocksett is used for locking muzzle devices.  Heat doesn't affect it.  Use hot water to break it loose, if required.

Just something of a follow up. I went shooting yesterday with two members of IL Carry at a sportsmen's club I wanted to check out before joining (outside shooting!). They both shot my build. They both loved it. Shockling light was how one described it and both said it was wonderfully easy to shoot. They were the most experienced AR folks who've shot it. The others were AR newbs.

So thank you again for all the help. Yesterday just confirmed I made very good choices on my parts.

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