I have a bolt disassembly tool, and I fully compressed the ejector flush with the bolt face.  My 1/16 steel punch required vigorous tapping to get this pin to move.  Insertion was another matter: I bent a "coil spring pin" (?? a hollow pin) when trying to reinsert.

Any tricks?  Kroil?  More nimble fingers?

Thanks in advance.

It almost takes three hands.

My trick is to put the bolt in a vise with plastic or rubber jaws so you don't mar it all up. Get the roll pin started with a small hammer. Then push all the guts into the bolt making sure the opening of the ejector is facing towards the center of the bolt and not the outside and just keep tapping the roll pin into place until it catches the ejector. Then you can finish it all off with the punch to get the pin fully seated. Just make sure it is not sticking out of either side.

Make sure there are no burrs in the hole.
Use a short punch.

I use a 1/16" roll pin starter punch.  Unlike flexible starters, it lets you line that puppy up straight and get it solidly started.  Other roll pins can be started with the tubing/wire insulation trick, but this one is a bear.

Those pins are the biggest PITA of all, imho. I've bent 1/16" punches before on that. I have no idea why they need to be that tight, but they seem to be.

With the proper tools and techniques I don’t see the ejector pin being any harder or tighter than the triggerguard pin.
I have run across the odd bolt where someone peened some bolt material into the hole behind the ejector pin.
My headspace gages require removal of the extractor and ejector so I guess I have had a fair amount of practice.

When using the bolt disassembly tool, don't bottom out the ejector flush with the bolt face.

It only needs tension relieved off the roll pin.

I don't hit the pin out all the way, just enough to remove the ejector and spring, that way it is already started when I punch it back in.

I do them all the time, as I chamfer the ejector pin face on many bolts.

You're spot on about tension.  I bottom my tool on the bolt face, then loosen it a bit.  That keeps enough tension on the bolt to keep it in the tool, but doesn't allow the ejector to rub on the pin.

The bit I highlighted in red takes a very careful hand and a lot of practice.  Using a roll pin starter makes it simpler for me - I just drive the pin all the way out, and then start it again with my 1/16" starter punch.

With all of this discussion, I must add a plug for the ARFCOM Bolt Assembly Block.  The picture on the online store page for this gadget needs to be updated to show how to use it - you use an empty case to compress the ejector, and the block retains the case perfectly to keep the bolt in the block.  You need the extractor to be installed for it to work, but that's no problem.  The thing is light enough to keep in a range bag if you wanted, but it does its job perfectly, including holding the bolt still enough to make removing AND installing the ejector retainer pin pretty easy.

<--- Assembles a couple hundred bolts a week


Since no one mentioned this, make sure the relief cut in the ejector is toward the center of the bolt

And it helps to use specific roll pin punches.

The reason that pin needs to be so tight is that if it falls out you have a brick.