Howdy folks,

I am in the process of building my first AR and I was wondering what the "go to" buffer tube, buffer, and spring set up is?

Is it okay to just get a generic 6 position setup from DPMS or is there a quality aspect to this particular area?

To me, I figure a mil-spec tube is just about the same regardless of the brand, but I could see a quality difference in maybe the buffer and the spring.

I am not trying to budget build this by the way. I'm sure it will all work great, but I'm not afraid to spend a few extra bucks to get better quality long as it provides benefit.

I picked up my tube kite from Palmetto State Armory.  They had a milspec kit with Tube, logo'd buffer, spring, castle nut and end plate for 30 bucks.  Haven't had a chance to install it yet, lower arrives tomorrow.  However, it appears to be of quality materials.  I only mentioned the logo'd part as that was the cheapest kit they afford.  I think it was 10 bucks more for the vanilla gold anodized buffer.

7075-T6 mil-spec.

Anderson 7075-T6 for $25

cdj:  Not all milspec buffer tubes are of equal quality, although DPMS sells good stuff.  I suggest you buy a Vltor milspec size 5-position receiver extension, plus a standard carbine spring and buffer.  Vltor quality is top shelf and milspec diameter fits most quality buttstocks.  Personally, I prefer the Rogers/Safariland SuperStoc.

At your first trip to the range, using your pet reloads or factory .223 ammo, note where the empty cases are ejecting to and whether the carrier is locking back on an empty magazine.  If it doesn't lock back, your rifle is undergassed, in which case report back here for more guidance.  If it does lock back and the ejection pattern is at 3 oclock or further back, then you are good to go.  If the ejection is forward of 3 oclock, then substitute the next heavier buffer to slow the bolt speed down a bit.  Fortunately, buffers are relatively inexpensive. good luck - CW

So there is nothing special about a buffer other than the weight varieties?

i.e. Vltor doesn't sell a buffer that is better than DPMS.

I have never used a Vltor so I cannot comment on that specific brand.  If it is truly a mil spec buffer tube, they should all be the same to an extent.  Some apply special coatings to make them smoother/ slicker, some add numbers to the top to see what position you are in, some are machined much better and some are different colors.  

One thing I have noticed about the 6061 and 7075 tubes is that the end plate tab that somewhat centers the tube will dig into the threads more easily on the 6061 tubes that I have used compared to the 7075 tubes when tightening the castle nut.


Edit..... I just noticed you asked about buffers and not buffer tubes.  My reply was in regards to buffer tubes.

I think Spikes (and maybe others) sell a buffer that is filled with tungsten powder instead of solid weights, supposed to be quieter.

My rifle has a standard weight buffer, and when I  start tweaking it I'll get an H3 buffer (3 tungsten weights) , and will be able to infinitely adjust the weight to get it just right.

The real difference, as pointed out but maybe not explained is the material.  the 7075 alloy is quite a bit stronger than the 6061.  Because of its qualities the 7075 has to be machined while the 6061 being weldable can be assembled as seperate parts.  In most cases this doesn't mean much and the 6061 will do what you need it to, but it is weaker and more proned to breakage in severe-duty situations.  

So, if this will be an HD piece that may have to apply attitude adjustments to the cranial area of bad guys then go 7075.  If it's a once a month plinker spend your $$$ elsewhere.

Many buffer tubes are sold as "mil-spec" but they are only referring to the diameter of the tube.  The good tubes are 7075 T-6 aluminum.



Many people get by with 6061 tubes and for most people it's not that big of a deal.  The 7075 is stronger and I prefer the 7075 tubes.



I almost always recommend an H or H2 buffer.  Most of the springs are pretty good but should be replaced every 3,000 to 5,000rds.  If you want a spring that doesn't ever need changed look at SPRINCO or Damage Industries.

Is there any way to confirm if a tube is truly 7075?