User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 3/1/2014 7:59:33 PM EDT
Thoughts?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/1/2014 8:00:58 PM EDT
[#1]
It's pretty!
Did you get it pinned? |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/1/2014 8:03:15 PM EDT
[#2]
At first glance I would say that's definately another way to skin that cat. What is the material used?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/1/2014 8:10:05 PM EDT
[#3]
This one is O1 tool steel. I might try and take a little more off the width which is 1.125" at the moment.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/1/2014 8:51:48 PM EDT
[#4]
Don't like those 2 top setscrews. They will tend to lift the upper half of this design away from the barrel's gas port and cause leakage and cycling problems for some rifles. The gas tube side of every gas block needs to be pulled DOWN snugly against the gas port to seal more effectively. This design won't. Eliminate the top screws and this thing might have a chance on the market for the "pinned and welded" crowd.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/1/2014 8:57:28 PM EDT
[#5]
Looks pretty good. I designed one very similar a few months back. Almost the exact same design. Working on a 2 piece barrel nut right now.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/1/2014 9:23:20 PM EDT
[#6]
You're missing a gas tube?
Nice. Could it be adjustable from 0 to 11? Oh, and a bayonet lug. Definitely needs more bayonet lug. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/1/2014 9:42:08 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Don't like those 2 top setscrews. They will tend to lift the upper half of this design away from the barrel's gas port and cause leakage and cycling problems for some rifles. The gas tube side of every gas block needs to be pulled DOWN snugly against the gas port to seal more effectively. This design won't. Eliminate the top screws and this thing might have a chance on the market for the "pinned and welded" crowd. I didn't put the two top screws in my original drawing but if you torque the bottom screws first, the top screws would strip out before pulling it away from the barrels gas port. My original thoughts were to mill a flat spot on the top and bottom for pinning. Then I thought that if anyone had the ability to drill and pin this, they more then likely don't need the flat spots. I was thinking .125" roll pins. .0625" to catch the barrel and .0625" to catch the block. Thoughts? |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 4:39:08 AM EDT
[#8]
I would move the top two set screws down on the sides of the lower section that would seem to give it the real pull down effect. It would be a similar set screw set up as Samson use's on their gas blocks.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 8:06:23 AM EDT
[#9]
Why are the 2 upper setscrews there? What function do you think they will perform?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 8:10:52 AM EDT
[#10]
It looks cool, but is overly complicated for the application.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 8:14:17 AM EDT
[#11]
Looks really wide.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 8:17:21 AM EDT
[#12]
Looks solid and heavy. Is there a reason to make it so beefy?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 8:19:46 AM EDT
[#13]
You're onto something there. Its probably too much to ask of this design but if it were a bit thinner, that would be great. Free floats like the CMR may have some trouble with a GB like this. Either way, looks good so far.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 8:24:00 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Looks solid and heavy. Is there a reason to make it so beefy? I would think the portions that interlock would need to be this thick for strength. I could be wrong. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 8:29:30 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I would think the portions that interlock would need to be this thick for strength. I could be wrong. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Looks solid and heavy. Is there a reason to make it so beefy? I would think the portions that interlock would need to be this thick for strength. I could be wrong. It depends. Materials used and tolerances both affect the amount of material than needs to be used. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 8:36:25 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Why are the 2 upper setscrews there? What function do you think they will perform? Keep the top half from sliding forward. It would be better to have a lip on the bottom that prevents the top from moving forward. The shoulder on the barrel will keep it from sliding back. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 8:41:49 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It looks cool, but is overly complicated for the application. I agree with JoshAston that you would benefit from a shoulder that would keep the assembly from sliding (at least in one direction). It would be nice if you could design it so that a bolt ran through the dovetail joint on both sides. Either that or build it with a hinge. This would be a game changer for the 14.5" crowd.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 8:52:16 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not if you are doing hand guard swaps with a pinned flash hider. I agree with JoshAston that you would benefit from a shoulder that would keep the assembly from sliding (at least in one direction). It would be nice if you could design it so that a bolt ran through the dovetail joint on both sides. Either that or build it with a hinge. This would be a game changer for the 14.5" crowd. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
It looks cool, but is overly complicated for the application. I agree with JoshAston that you would benefit from a shoulder that would keep the assembly from sliding (at least in one direction). It would be nice if you could design it so that a bolt ran through the dovetail joint on both sides. Either that or build it with a hinge. This would be a game changer for the 14.5" crowd. wouldnt the design, two halves sliding into eachother, still need to be together before you slide it om the barrel? If it was hinged and then lockable in place it would be a different story Edit: you beat me by seconds |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 9:03:02 AM EDT
[#19]
Quoted:This would be a game changer for the 14.5" crowd.
This^ and 
To soon?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 9:08:11 AM EDT
[#20]
I like it. Aside from the top set screws, it would be perfect for barrels for pinned and welded comps/flash hiders. Curious how much would these go for.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 9:09:59 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
wouldnt the design, two halves sliding into eachother, still need to be together before you slide it on the barrel? No. Set one half in place against the shoulder on the barrel, place the other half in front of it, line up the grooves, slide it back into place, tighten set screws. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 9:15:30 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It looks cool, but is overly complicated for the application. Have you seen some of the overwrought, overengineered, over accessorized AR's here? Complicated doesn't even begin to cover some of the AR parts out there. I like it. If it had been available when I built my last AR upper I might have bought one. I'm getting ready to build another upper. That block would look good on it. Plans for a bull barreled version? |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 11:22:11 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No. Set one half in place against the shoulder on the barrel, place the other half in front of it, line up the grooves, slide it back into place, tighten set screws. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
wouldnt the design, two halves sliding into eachother, still need to be together before you slide it on the barrel? No. Set one half in place against the shoulder on the barrel, place the other half in front of it, line up the grooves, slide it back into place, tighten set screws. A nice solution for the "pinned & welded" muzzle device crowd. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 11:30:22 AM EDT
[#24]
Is it hardened? Must have polished the shit out of it if you did.
I would have used A2, S7, much more stable when heat treating. Interesting design. With all that trouble . Why didn't you make it adjustable? |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 11:33:33 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No. Set one half in place against the shoulder on the barrel, place the other half in front of it, line up the grooves, slide it back into place, tighten set screws. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
wouldnt the design, two halves sliding into eachother, still need to be together before you slide it on the barrel? No. Set one half in place against the shoulder on the barrel, place the other half in front of it, line up the grooves, slide it back into place, tighten set screws. That didnt even cross my mind... I R dumb. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 1:11:37 PM EDT
[#26]
My first attempt was pretty much the same thing but without the top 2 screws. The bottom screws were enough to keep it together for 1200 rounds of M193. It was actually a bit hard to move since some of the Permatex a used on the threads leaked and glued the bottom half to the barrel. As long as the bottom two screws stay tight, it's not going anywhere.
I originally wanted to use two pins, one top and one bottom. After thinking about it, I wanted it to be easy to install for the average Joe, which is why I went with the set screws. I also thought about a front lip to keep the top from moving forward but this is wire EDM, not going to happen. Pinning is best, but you're not going to do it with your Ryobi. I just used O1 tool steel because "pie". A 400 series stainless might be better? The width is the tough part. It's at 1.125" right now. I might be able to get it .0625 to .125 smaller. Maybe. What is the smallest rail going at the moment? The NSR? Anyone got the ID of the NSR? Not only will this be good for the "14.5" club" but also for folks stuck behind enemy lines. I have to pin and weld regardless of barrel length. It sucks, but it is what it is. Just think... you could buy a 14.5" barrel with the muzzle device already pinned and welded??? You can then choose whatever rail you want. Or the new KMR or whatever comes out... BAM!!! Not an issue!
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 5:33:06 PM EDT
[#27]
Nice work OP. If it were me, I would get creative with a clamp on version like this (grooved or hinged):
With this design, the tighter you turn the screw, the tighter it seats. MS Paint for the win
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 5:43:36 PM EDT
[#28]
i like the concept, its a great idea, it seems like it would make it very easy to install the gas block
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 6:05:56 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Nice work OP. If it were me, I would get creative with a clamp on version like this (grooved or hinged): http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/cc416/tct1000/gb1_zpse55b277a.jpg With this design, the tighter you turn the screw, the tighter it seats. MS Paint for the win Nice drawing!
I've actually thought of using a similar design that somewhat resembled ARC M-10 scope rings. The concept is cool but you still must consider manufacturing cost and material cost. I also believe in the K.I.S.S. principle and am trying my hardest to keep it simple. Thanks for the response! |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 6:18:52 PM EDT
[#30]
Double tap
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 6:29:52 PM EDT
[#31]
I remember you hinting at this in another thread, so I know exactly what you wanted to accomplish. In my opinion this is brilliantly executed and an excellent choice for builds requiring permanently attached muzzle devices.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 6:32:17 PM EDT
[#32]
What do I think... I think I need a .750 gas block for my last rifle build (7.62x39) since no one else has one in stock!
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 7:11:56 PM EDT
[#33]
I'd buy one in .750
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 8:49:15 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Nice work OP. If it were me, I would get creative with a clamp on version like this (grooved or hinged): http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/cc416/tct1000/gb1_zpse55b277a.jpg With this design, the tighter you turn the screw, the tighter it seats. MS Paint for the win Very Nice too, but I would take the original design and add tapered wedges in place of the sliding right angles. Tighten up a set screw on the bottom, and it will pull the sides of the upper block half tighter against the top half of the barrel. Add in a set screw on the bottom half on either side to keep the upper half from shifting. Remember, every good idea will be stolen. That is proof you had a good idea. Remember the guy who made the handguard removal tool and posted it here? It got hijacked by a couple commercial companies. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 9:25:39 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'd buy one in .750 Only one??? 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 9:53:35 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Nice drawing!
I've actually thought of using a similar design that somewhat resembled ARC M-10 scope rings. The concept is cool but you still must consider manufacturing cost and material cost. I also believe in the K.I.S.S. principle and am trying my hardest to keep it simple. Thanks for the response! Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Nice work OP. If it were me, I would get creative with a clamp on version like this (grooved or hinged): http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/cc416/tct1000/gb1_zpse55b277a.jpg With this design, the tighter you turn the screw, the tighter it seats. MS Paint for the win Nice drawing!
I've actually thought of using a similar design that somewhat resembled ARC M-10 scope rings. The concept is cool but you still must consider manufacturing cost and material cost. I also believe in the K.I.S.S. principle and am trying my hardest to keep it simple. Thanks for the response! Maybe like this? 
I only post cause I want one
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2014 10:46:56 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Maybe like this? http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/cc416/tct1000/gb2_zpsaf055118.jpg I only post cause I want one Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Nice work OP. If it were me, I would get creative with a clamp on version like this (grooved or hinged): http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/cc416/tct1000/gb1_zpse55b277a.jpg With this design, the tighter you turn the screw, the tighter it seats. MS Paint for the win Nice drawing!
I've actually thought of using a similar design that somewhat resembled ARC M-10 scope rings. The concept is cool but you still must consider manufacturing cost and material cost. I also believe in the K.I.S.S. principle and am trying my hardest to keep it simple. Thanks for the response! Maybe like this? http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/cc416/tct1000/gb2_zpsaf055118.jpg I only post cause I want one Roger that my friend! 
Keep in mind the width. The thinner the better. Also you are now into 3 pieces which moves me away from keeping it simple. Good idea though. I'm going ditch the top screws and try to make it a little thinner. I think pinning is best, a couple roll pins is the way to go. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/13/2014 2:04:20 AM EDT
[#38]
200 plus rnds with my new gas block, even more tomorrow. I was kinda weird putting the gas block on last.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/13/2014 3:35:52 AM EDT
[#39]
Nice to see some progress. Still interested in one in .750.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/13/2014 5:13:19 AM EDT
[#40]
being a NJ inmate myself (Vernon area) this is a friggin' GREAT idea.
need any local beta testers?
anyway, I'd be in for 2 when they're released. my boss would probably be interested in a few also. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/13/2014 6:19:12 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Nice to see some progress. Still interested in one in .750. ^ Yep. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/13/2014 7:49:04 AM EDT
[#42]
I am a designer.. that is a clever idea.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/13/2014 9:36:30 AM EDT
[#43]
Bravo, Josh. This neatly solves a problem those people who are required to have, or freely choose, pinned muzzle devices. It is both a two piece GB, and it is to some degree a low profile GB. Best of luck - CW
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/13/2014 6:00:19 PM EDT
[#44]
Adjustable! I want an Adjustable!
Even if it has orifice pills that would go between the block & barrel. A set - screw would be nicer... |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/13/2014 6:17:07 PM EDT
[#45]
Right now I'm using Rocksett on the set-screws and it's been rock solid.
I'm still working on the design and trying to figure out how to get cost down. Wire EDM is great but it's not cheap. Stay tuned!!! |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/14/2014 5:14:14 AM EDT
[#46]
*nevermind*
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/14/2014 7:41:25 AM EDT
[#47]
This is a great idea ..... 14.5 crowd all the way. patent it.... if it is possible.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/14/2014 7:51:05 AM EDT
[#48]
I think a small roll pin placed vertically on one side would eliminate any issue of the top and bottom sections sliding after installation. Then you could drop the top set screws.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/14/2014 8:31:05 AM EDT
[#49]
Hydra: You may be onto something, but in the meantime, here is the best existing gas block I've found that is immune to pinned-on muzzle devices. Maybe you can adopt some of its design principles. Its a two piece, like yours, but affixes with simple clamping power rather than those pesky underside set screws. I have the GI style variant (bayonet lug and sling swivel) on my 5.56 upper and it has never come loose. The screws each have a drop of blue thread locker. In a pinch you could grind off the front sight of the YHM product and fit the remainder inside a 2" diameter FF handguard. - CW
https://yhm.net/front-flip-sight-tower-standard-w-o-bayonet-lug-or-sling-swivel.html |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/14/2014 11:54:15 AM EDT
[#50]
The YHM is a good option but for a under the rail for a 14.5 or the states that make it a requirement for all barrels to be pinned or no comp or flash hider this is a winner. I would be willing to cut a couple of my low pro gas blocks and replace them with these. Then you could change rails more easily if need be.
I would be interested in 2 or 4 .... BRD is the greatest isn't it |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
