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Posted: 10/9/2010 6:44:20 AM EDT
[#1]
I use white crayon.
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Posted: 10/9/2010 6:50:11 AM EDT
[#2]
Crayon, china marker, testors model paint, fingernail polish, etc. About the easiest way I've seen is to fill it in, then wipe the excess off the top with a rag with with some acetone.
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Posted: 10/9/2010 8:08:35 AM EDT
[#3]
I think I have perfected it. You will need the following; Testor's Enamel, Makeup application sponges, gun oil (CLP), cleaning patches. I take the makeup sponges and dip them in paint and overfill the engraving marks. Use plenty of paint. I then let it dry for 10-15 minutes. After it is fairly tacky and dry, take a cleaning patch that it soaked with CLP and start to break loose and wipe off the excess paint. I use the wax-on/of method. Once you get the excess cleaned off, let it dry some more. Finally, to wipe off every bit of excess, put a little bit of CLP on a clean sponge and start wiping off any excess or film using a single one-direction wipe. Also, I like to use the flat colored Testor's Enamels. Have fun and don't be afraid to mess it up, you can't.
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Posted: 10/9/2010 10:08:22 AM EDT
[#4]
Elmer's paint pens, you can get them at Walmart. Slop the stuff all over roll mark wait 20 min then wipe most of excess off with Hoppes #9, wait another 20 min and wipe remaining excess off with hoppes#9 and you are done.
If you try getting all of the excess off at once it may come out of the roll marks especially it they are shallow ones. |
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Posted: 10/9/2010 10:11:35 AM EDT
[#5]
Paint sticks. They are like crayons. Got mine from Brownells.
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Posted: 10/9/2010 12:38:25 PM EDT
[#6]
I used testores enamel, it turned out pretty good! How does enamel hold up to the heat of a slide? I've got a pistol I want to color, I used crayon, but it just melted off..?
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Posted: 10/9/2010 4:38:08 PM EDT
[#7]
Been using Testor's enamel for years. Paint sticks are a mess. Crayons are for kids. The Testor's virtually applies itself to rollmarks, holds up to heat and gun oils, and can be removed with some thinner, a toothbrush, and elbow grease...
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Posted: 10/10/2010 5:50:06 AM EDT
[#8]
Quoted:
Been using Testor's enamel for years. Paint sticks are a mess. Crayons are for kids. The Testor's virtually applies itself to rollmarks, holds up to heat and gun oils, and can be removed with some thinner, a toothbrush, and elbow grease... http://www.imageviper.com/displayimage/140359/0/mega_1.jpg http://www.imageviper.com/displayimage/109273/0/lmybushy4.JPG http://www.imageviper.com/displayimage/121696/0/mega_od.JPG http://www.imageviper.com/displayimage/139506/0/newlower.JPG Nice work! I've been thinking about doing one of mine. |
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Posted: 10/10/2010 6:39:51 AM EDT
[#9]
FYRARMS,
How did you manage to get that serial numbered Bushy? Pretty cool. |
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Posted: 10/10/2010 9:24:02 AM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
I added a dash of Photoshop. FYRARMS, How did you manage to get that serial numbered Bushy? Pretty cool. 
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Posted: 10/10/2010 9:58:49 AM EDT
[#11]
here is some good reading on putting colorfill on your ar.
sorry looks like my link is no good any more but if you do a search there was a thread about this and there were some sweet looking ar's. |
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Posted: 10/12/2010 7:36:00 PM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
I think I have perfected it. You will need the following; Testor's Enamel, Makeup application sponges, gun oil (CLP), cleaning patches. I take the makeup sponges and dip them in paint and overfill the engraving marks. Use plenty of paint. I then let it dry for 10-15 minutes. After it is fairly tacky and dry, take a cleaning patch that it soaked with CLP and start to break loose and wipe off the excess paint. I use the wax-on/of method. Once you get the excess cleaned off, let it dry some more. Finally, to wipe off every bit of excess, put a little bit of CLP on a clean sponge and start wiping off any excess or film using a single one-direction wipe. Also, I like to use the flat colored Testor's Enamels. Have fun and don't be afraid to mess it up, you can't. This guy speaks the truth, I followed his method for my daughters retro AR. http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q116/Piper_pilot/AR15.jpg |
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Posted: 10/12/2010 11:48:36 PM EDT
[#13]
I used Testors, thinned down with paint thinner until it was like water...
Used a toothpick to get a drop on the end... sticking the tip in a corner of the depression on the lower and it flowed right into the carvings... |
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Posted: 10/18/2010 3:10:07 AM EDT
[#14]
ive been trying to figure out how to fill the lower for a while to. this post was very helpful. i read it, jumped in the truck and headed for the hobby shop. this is what i came up with.http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g459/cowboy1187/P1010218.jpg
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Posted: 10/18/2010 8:04:25 AM EDT
[#15]
Testers enamel paint, Testers thinner, thin paint brush and Q tips
Paint on heavy and does not have to be perfect. 
I let it dry for a couple of hours then wipe off excess with almost dry thinner Q tip. 
Cheers, 
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Posted: 10/18/2010 8:38:59 AM EDT
[#16]
Quoted:
Testers enamel paint, Testers thinner, thin paint brush and Q tips Paint on heavy and does not have to be perfect. http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy200/wildomar_piper/DSCN1652.jpg I let it dry for a couple of hours then wipe off excess with almost dry thinner Q tip. http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy200/wildomar_piper/DSCN2170.jpg Cheers, Very nice ... I gotta get me one of those Mega Gator lowers. 
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Posted: 11/16/2010 5:28:37 PM EDT
[#17]
TAGGED!!! Very nice work here.
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Posted: 11/16/2010 5:49:46 PM EDT
[#18]
I take testors paint, thinner and toothpicks. Fill the roll marks with thinner and wipe off leaving trace amounts of thinner. Dip the toothpicks in the paint and press into the roll marks. Use the paint sparingly. No mess, no cleanup.
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Posted: 11/16/2010 6:22:44 PM EDT
[#19]
Quoted:
Testers enamel paint, Testers thinner, thin paint brush and Q tips Paint on heavy and does not have to be perfect. http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy200/wildomar_piper/DSCN1652.jpg I let it dry for a couple of hours then wipe off excess with almost dry thinner Q tip. http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy200/wildomar_piper/DSCN2170.jpg Cheers, That looks awesome got me thinking now |
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Posted: 11/16/2010 6:54:24 PM EDT
[#20]
I did mine in Testors enamel also, but I only did the markings and on a whim the Magpul markings on my MIAD.
http://www.apexgunsmithing.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=216&g2_serialNumber=1 |
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Posted: 11/16/2010 11:42:51 PM EDT
[#21]
Quoted:
I did mine in Testors enamel also, but I only did the markings and on a whim the Magpul markings on my MIAD. http://www.apexgunsmithing.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=216&g2_serialNumber=1 maybe it's the angle of the pic, but it looks like your hammer pin is walking out. |
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Posted: 11/17/2010 8:08:27 AM EDT
[#22]
Do the testor paints mix well together? I would like to use a magpul FDE color, but don't think they make it
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Posted: 11/17/2010 8:57:18 AM EDT
[#23]
Model paint is almost always made to mix well, so it can't hurt to try.
808state: The hammer pin wasn't fully seated after the last time I disassembled the FCG, it's back to normal now |
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Posted: 11/17/2010 3:44:36 PM EDT
[#24]
There was a good thread going on earlier this year (that I think should have gotten sticky'd). Check it out - there's some good information in there.
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Posted: 11/17/2010 6:59:58 PM EDT
[#25]
Quoted: There was a good thread going on earlier this year (that I think should have gotten sticky'd). Check it out - there's some good information in there. I went there but after the original question nothing comes up. How do you open the archive? |
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Posted: 11/17/2010 7:42:50 PM EDT
[#26]
Quoted:
Quoted:
There was a good thread going on earlier this year (that I think should have gotten sticky'd). Check it out - there's some good information in there. I went there but after the original question nothing comes up. How do you open the archive? Same thing happen to me. |
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Posted: 11/18/2010 4:17:02 AM EDT
[#27]
I painted mine in with Duracoat and a throw away paint brush from an old model car kit. The paint color is Duracoat Magpul FDE, which is close but not quite. I wiped the excess off with an old t-shirt I had in the rag box and some acetone out of the wife unit's bathroom (fingernail polish remover).
Little girl approves. (obligatory toes in shot) 
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Posted: 11/18/2010 10:59:23 AM EDT
[#28]
Quoted: I believe you have to be a supporting member to view the archives.Quoted: Quoted: There was a good thread going on earlier this year (that I think should have gotten sticky'd). Check it out - there's some good information in there. I went there but after the original question nothing comes up. How do you open the archive? Same thing happen to me. ETA: I copied TexasPatriot's work on "Painting Roll Marks - Types, Techniques & Materials" into a Google Spreadsheet that anyone should be able to view. |
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Posted: 11/18/2010 5:48:03 PM EDT
[#29]
Thanks for the info on the Archives. I was able to get into them but could not find "that" particular thread.
I attempted to do the Mega Logo multi-colored.
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Posted: 11/19/2010 9:06:37 AM EDT
[#30]
Looks like a good job, but that's a little too colorful for me. I'll stick with FDE for mine.
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Posted: 11/19/2010 7:22:08 PM EDT
[#31]
Quoted:
Do the testor paints mix well together? I would like to use a magpul FDE color, but don't think they make it They actually do make it. I am getting ready to do my mega billet set with it. I practiced first on my fde fnp-9. You can check out the color match and my procedure at ar15armory on page 13 of the thread. Here is the link: http://www.ar15armory.com/forums/Painting-rollmarks-t21008.html&st=240 |
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Posted: 11/20/2010 1:02:58 PM EDT
[#32]
Quoted:
I think I have perfected it. You will need the following; Testor's Enamel, Makeup application sponges, gun oil (CLP), cleaning patches. I take the makeup sponges and dip them in paint and overfill the engraving marks. Use plenty of paint. I then let it dry for 10-15 minutes. After it is fairly tacky and dry, take a cleaning patch that it soaked with CLP and start to break loose and wipe off the excess paint. I use the wax-on/of method. Once you get the excess cleaned off, let it dry some more. Finally, to wipe off every bit of excess, put a little bit of CLP on a clean sponge and start wiping off any excess or film using a single one-direction wipe. Also, I like to use the flat colored Testor's Enamels. Have fun and don't be afraid to mess it up, you can't. This is great! Except what I did was took some testers flate desert tan, a thin testers paint brush, bore patches and CLP. This is awesome, Ive been wanting to do this for a while but couldnt figure out how until I read this thread. Thanks guys for the info. |
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Posted: 11/23/2010 8:58:23 AM EDT
[#33]
worked like a charm. I went with the Testors gloss colors, left it for 20 mins, wiped with solvent. If it looked spotty in spots, I re-applied sat 20 minutes and repeat.
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Posted: 11/23/2010 7:02:52 PM EDT
[#34]
QUESTION TO ALL OF YOU WHO HAVE DONE THIS - if you spray some gun cleaner like Birchwood-Casey Gun Scrubber, does the higher pressure spray damage the paint job inside the engravings?
I'd hate to have to redo this because I wasn't thinking and scrubbed the whole lower inside and out with one of these pressurized cleaners. (TERRIFIC paint job BTW to all of you! I gotta say that I am inspired to do that on all my lowers - RRA, Bushmaster, Aero, LAR, Delton) |
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Posted: 11/24/2010 5:01:15 AM EDT
[#35]
Quoted:
QUESTION TO ALL OF YOU WHO HAVE DONE THIS - if you spray some gun cleaner like Birchwood-Casey Gun Scrubber, does the higher pressure spray damage the paint job inside the engravings? I'd hate to have to redo this because I wasn't thinking and scrubbed the whole lower inside and out with one of these pressurized cleaners. (TERRIFIC paint job BTW to all of you! I gotta say that I am inspired to do that on all my lowers - RRA, Bushmaster, Aero, LAR, Delton) My experience has been that it will almost instantly blast the paint out of the rollmarks. That's why I only applied the gun scrubber to a cleaning pad and stripped down the spots I intended to paint. Here is a link to my method which is on page 13 of the thread in the link. http://www.ar15armory.com/forums/Painting-rollmarks-t21008.html&st=240&gopid=1230986#entry1230986 |
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Posted: 11/25/2010 3:44:29 AM EDT
[#36]
Quoted:
QUESTION TO ALL OF YOU WHO HAVE DONE THIS - if you spray some gun cleaner like Birchwood-Casey Gun Scrubber, does the higher pressure spray damage the paint job inside the engravings? I'd hate to have to redo this because I wasn't thinking and scrubbed the whole lower inside and out with one of these pressurized cleaners. (TERRIFIC paint job BTW to all of you! I gotta say that I am inspired to do that on all my lowers - RRA, Bushmaster, Aero, LAR, Delton) I used Duracoat. It seems to stand up much better than model paint does. But lots of brake cleaner will still remove it. |
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Posted: 11/25/2010 8:36:30 PM EDT
[#37]
Thanks for the replies. Well, its good to know that CLP and GunSCrubber will take it out, so tht's one to be careful with. But with Duracoat, I had no idea lots of brake cleaner would do that to an epoxy paint...hmmm. Back to square one it seems. Still, those rollmarks look really great and I must just do it for the heck of it.
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Posted: 12/29/2010 3:56:25 PM EDT
[#38]
Not sure if i like this... i think i like black better. |
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