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Posted: 2/9/2011 7:04:18 PM EDT
[#1]
My friends coyote rifle, we’ll try to anodize it coyote brown.
This one is a Colfax Tactical lower, good people. 
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CA, USA
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Posted: 2/13/2011 2:35:07 AM EDT
[#2]
Originally Posted By VaderSpade:
This one is a Colfax Tactical lower, good people. and right up the hill from me. 
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OH, USA
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Posted: 2/13/2011 2:07:01 PM EDT
[#3]
So I made the plunge. Lower and Jig will be here on Wednesday!!! Wish me luck.
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CA, USA
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Posted: 2/19/2011 11:59:36 PM EDT
[#4]
PS Colfax tactical is about to have .308's
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KY, USA
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Posted: 2/23/2011 12:20:54 PM EDT
[#5]
That... is the coolest thing I've seen on ARFCOM.
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WA, USA
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Posted: 3/3/2011 12:27:13 PM EDT
[#6]
What an awesome and inspiring post. I just ordered my first 80% and jig. Now I just need a mill on craigslist. Do you have any info or BATF letters regarding 80% and finishing them. Do you need to pay a $200 tax stamp fee and register it? Any info would be greatly appreciated...
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WA, USA
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Posted: 3/3/2011 12:37:56 PM EDT
[#7]
What an awesome and inspiring post. I just ordered my first 80% and jig. Now I just need a mill on craigslist. Do you have any info or BATF letters regarding 80% and finishing them. Do you need to pay a $200 tax stamp fee and register it? Any info would be greatly appreciated...
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Posted: 3/4/2011 2:30:58 AM EDT
[#8]
Originally Posted By viperjody:
What an awesome and inspiring post. I just ordered my first 80% and jig. Now I just need a mill on craigslist. Do you have any info or BATF letters regarding 80% and finishing them. Do you need to pay a $200 tax stamp fee and register it? Any info would be greatly appreciated... No you don't pay anything to ATF. You don't even have to report it.. hence the appeal of the 80% to a lot of people. $200 tax stamps are for other things like suppressors or other NFA items. |
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OH, USA
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Posted: 3/7/2011 8:23:19 AM EDT
[#9]
Tactical machining has their determination letters on their web site. Check out the BATFE site FAQ's for more information, your covered unless your state prohibits it.
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NJ, USA
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Posted: 3/10/2011 8:07:07 PM EDT
[Last Edit: zulthor]
[#10]
Very nice
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Posted: 3/20/2011 11:00:42 PM EDT
[#11]
Anodized a couple more, now for a little paint.
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Posted: 3/20/2011 11:29:43 PM EDT
[#12]
Originally Posted By VaderSpade: Anodized a couple more, now for a little paint. http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx174/VaderSpade/Dscn8759.jpg http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx174/VaderSpade/Dscn8790.jpg Dang it! You stole my "Mudflap Girl" idea! 
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OH, USA
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Posted: 3/21/2011 8:40:42 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Doernuth]
[#13]
I haven't gotten to annodizing yet. Still working on the etching and lettering.
Hope mine turn out half as well as yours. BTW what font/lettersize do you use on your cutter for the lettering? Found the answer on page Four. I have the same cutter but am having trouble keeping the centers of A's and O's in place when doing the transfer. The tape wants to pull them off when I remove it. I am thinking that I need to adjust the force of the cut to make it shallower. If you are using the signblazer software can you email a template of your lettering file? |
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Posted: 3/22/2011 12:20:00 PM EDT
[#14]
Originally Posted By Doernuth:
I haven't gotten to annodizing yet. Still working on the etching and lettering. Hope mine turn out half as well as yours. BTW what font/lettersize do you use on your cutter for the lettering? Found the answer on page Four. I have the same cutter but am having trouble keeping the centers of A's and O's in place when doing the transfer. The tape wants to pull them off when I remove it. I am thinking that I need to adjust the force of the cut to make it shallower. If you are using the signblazer software can you email a template of your lettering file? Haven't tried this yet, but possible you could have the A & O centers still attached to the main body and after placing the vinyl, cut out the attaching centers. Since your etching, the cuts (assuming not deep) should go away. Just a thought.. |
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Posted: 3/24/2011 12:47:08 PM EDT
[#15]
My fill work needs a tune up but I’m happy with the way the bee turned out. I’m not sure just how my next one will turn out, but it’s fun to challenge myself. My buddy Scott is doing most of the art work on the flame and skull lower.
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Posted: 4/17/2011 7:13:54 AM EDT
[#16]
wow
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TX, USA
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Posted: 4/24/2011 11:00:05 PM EDT
[#17]
That green one on P.4 makes me a little excited in the pants..... HA!
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OR, USA
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Posted: 4/27/2011 10:05:46 PM EDT
[#18]
Very Awesome builds! Thank you for the anodizing, and etching info!
Another source for 80% Lowers : http://www.ar15plus.com/aboutus.asp Will post a pic of mine soon |
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 5/2/2011 12:43:17 AM EDT
[#19]
Mr. Spade-
I finally got around to doing some test anodizing runs and have a few questions for you. 1. After anodizing, I dunked my part in the Caswells Black HBL dye heated to about 120 F (per package instructions) for about 10 mins, then sealed it in boiling distilled water for 30 mins. Is it normal after pulling the part out, for a decent amount of dye to rub off with a paper towel? 2. The black HBL dye is a lot darker (and bluer) than the type III anodizing on my upper and forearm. How do you better match your lowers to your preanodized uppers? I figured I could dunk the part in the dye for less time, but I think it would just be a lighter version of a blue/black rather than the gray/black that you get with type III ano. Any ideas? Thanks, -Tom |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 5/2/2011 10:32:05 AM EDT
[#20]
It is normal for some dye to rub off, and yes type II is darker than type III. Unless you anodize both parts at the same time it’s hard to get a perfect match.
Here are some more of mine. 
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 5/2/2011 10:56:21 AM EDT
[#21]
Thanks for the reply....I wish 'some' of mine equated to '11'!!!
Have you ever tried mixing a black and gray dye to get something closer to a type III ano? On another note, I noticed that my power supply isn't constant current, but rather constant voltage. It seems to anodize, but the small test piece I did ran for two hours, and the current hadn't start dropping at that point (was about 1.7 Amps). Unfortunately, I was time constrained, so I had to pull the part out. It was starting to look golden, but wasn't to the extent of your pics, so I'm not sure that the process is working correctly. Do you think I need to get a different power supply? Thanks, -Tom |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 5/2/2011 3:26:02 PM EDT
[#22]
It’s hard to say whether your power supply is doing a good job without seeing it in person. BUT one good test is how well the part takes the dye. An un-anodized or weakly anodized part will not take dye. I have lost my contact on parts and the dye barely penetrated the part.
It sounds like you got decent penetration. I have not tried mixing dyes to lighten my lowers. |
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 5/6/2011 1:38:18 PM EDT
[#23]
VaderSpade-
Do you remember what font you used for the text on the receivers you show on page 1 of this thread. I know someone posed the question earlier in the thread, but the font you replied with looks nothing like the one I want to find on page 1. Thanks, -2t0ner |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 5/8/2011 1:45:33 PM EDT
[#24]
I have changed fonts since page 1.
As stated I now use GungsuhChe, I think I was using Gungsuh (without the Che) on page 1 but it is hard to see a difference so it may have been a font that is lost to my memory? |
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Posted: 5/18/2011 8:24:26 AM EDT
[#25]
Great info here.... You are a true man's man...
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Posted: 5/18/2011 9:29:32 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Woodys556]
[#26]
Vader,
I am about to try this. I have a couple of questions for you. 1.How do you measure the current using a volt/amp meter? 2.What amp level are you using for your lowers? How does that change for doing a A3 Upper, if any? 3. I am seeing in other posts and internet that RIT dye is a good choice. Have you used RIT? 4.How do you do the flames? are you using a vinyl stencil to mask off the anodizing and dying process? 5. Are you agitating the acid bath with an air pump? 6.Have you ever De-Anodised a factory upper to re-anodise it to match one of your lowers? I am trying to pull together a concensus of information from about 6 internet sourses. I have an OLD A1 upper I am thinking of trying the with. I am going to get some Un Anodized Uppers for my build once I get this process going. I saw a video on YouTube and it looks very doable. Thanks for any help you can give. |
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Posted: 5/18/2011 2:51:37 PM EDT
[#27]
Woodys556, if you find unanodized uppers let us know where you got them!!!!
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Posted: 5/18/2011 4:12:36 PM EDT
[#28]
I pre-ordered a couple from here.
rangetool.com The should ship early june. I'll post pics when received. |
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Posted: 5/18/2011 4:31:25 PM EDT
[#29]
Originally Posted By Minuteman:
I pre-ordered a couple from here. rangetool.com The should ship early june. I'll post pics when received. This |
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Posted: 5/18/2011 4:54:54 PM EDT
[#30]
Why thank you both. Just what the doctor ordered....
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MD, USA
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Posted: 5/18/2011 5:01:09 PM EDT
[Last Edit: pipewelder74]
[#31]
New to the site..Love it! I just finished my 80% lower and wanted to throw my two cents out there...
First, I am proud to say that my machining turned out perfectly...  . I flip-flopped on whether or not to buy the jig and decided against..Found that there is no real need for it, as RAY-VIN's tutorial is the bible of the lower build. Chapters 3 and 10 give you all the measurements you need to complete the 80%. I also made the jig as outlined in his drawings. (just google ray-vin if you havn't come across it yet).
Secondly, I want to share a blunder I made in my anodizing attempt. My total ignorance about electricity and chemistry should have deterred me from even attempting it..but alas...Anyway FYI - Battery acid is only around 30% sulfuric, making a 1:1 anodizing bath about 15% acid. SO––If you have access to straight (95%) sulfuric acid...UHHH..DON"T use it at 1:1 ratio...nuff said 
Even after I got the solution correct, I struggled with the proper current...blah blah..It just didn't happen, so I settled with a nice coat of rattle-can Olive drab. Looks really good and will certainly be good enough for my uses.. Good luck to all on your builds!! |
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Posted: 5/19/2011 8:04:49 PM EDT
[#32]
Originally Posted By Doernuth:
Why thank you both. Just what the doctor ordered.... I get mine first!!!!! |
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OH, USA
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Posted: 5/20/2011 8:40:18 AM EDT
[#33]
You're a mad scientist. That is fucking sweet!!!
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USA
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Posted: 5/26/2011 9:02:49 PM EDT
[#34]
I tried to send you a message vader but your inbox was full. Ill try again later.
Jake |
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Posted: 5/27/2011 8:16:26 AM EDT
[#35]
Originally Posted By jlang95:
I tried to send you a message vader but your inbox was full. Ill try again later. Jake I too have tried to contact him with no luck. If anybody has a way to get ahold of him and have him check his email and this topic he started please do so. I (We) have some questions for him. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 5/28/2011 1:50:32 PM EDT
[#36]
I’ve been busy selling things off so I can get a CNC mill
. I live back in the hills and I’m on dialup I’ve needed to keep the phone lines open, so I’ve had little or no computer time.
I’ve seen a couple of the questions and most if not all of the answers are somewhere in the thread. I know they can get lost with all the post, but they are there. I’ll see about clearing my inbox, I didn’t know it was full. |
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Posted: 6/2/2011 12:47:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Woodys556]
[#37]
FYI for all,
Ron Newman at Moolight Telescopes (where Vader got his anodizing stuff) is a REAL JERK to deal with. If ya order from him hope and pray you don't have to talk to him on the phone. Not sure about the quality of his products, yet, because I can't get it delivered and when questioned, he went nuts on me. Shitty customer service. and attitude. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 6/3/2011 10:27:35 AM EDT
[#38]
I have heard that before in other forums. The advice on those forums was to just order through his website, and that he always shipped ASAP. I found that to be true, but the ONE time I tried to get a custom order (I asked for extra wire instead of a plate) he just shipped the plate.
As far as I know he’s the only game in town, if anyone knows if there’s ANY alternative please post it here. |
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Posted: 6/3/2011 11:03:20 AM EDT
[#39]
Caswell Plating.
Here I haven't used their kit but it is similar to Moonlights. Might be worth a shot.... I did buy heaters from them for the tanks that worked well. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 6/29/2011 1:52:38 PM EDT
[#40]
Building has been real slow due to the fact it’s been hard to get entry level uppers. My last order from Del-Ton took over 9 weeks and even then they only shipped about half the order.
Here’s a couple we’ve done lately. 
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ME, USA
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Posted: 7/27/2011 10:20:31 AM EDT
[#41]
Great work! It's great to see folks doing scratch work..
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MD, USA
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Posted: 7/30/2011 1:09:17 PM EDT
[#42]
I found great alternative to vinyl for etching. I tried it works really well.
It will cost only $25 and all you need is laser printer Ideas is to use photoresist film as they do for making PCB. Buy photoresist film with film developer and remover for $12 on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/Photoresist-Film-Sheets-Photo-Etched-PE-PCB-/250863909437?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a68a77a3d Buy transparent film for laser printers $12 on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/Innovera-Laser-Printer-Transparency-Film-/130538696766?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e64b6703e Details of process are described in first ebay link. But general steps are: 1. Print what you need on transparent film (do 2 copies, and stack them on top of each other - result is much better) 2. Attach photoresist film to receiver (first remove vinyl coating from one side of photoresist and attach it on that side) 3. Put transparent film with whatever you printed on top of photoresist film and ultraviolet it for 5-10 minutes (press film with piece of glass so there are no shadows, etc) 4. Remove second layer of vinyl coating form photoresist and "develop" it - use developer - stuff that was not exposed to ultraviolet will be dissolved 5 Etch 6 Remove remaining photoresist - use photorest remover. More pictures of process here (they do PCB, but for receiver process is exactly the same) http://hackedgadgets.com/2006/06/24/photo-etch-circuit-board-process/ PS. you dont even need to buy photoresist kit with developer and remover. For removing you can use drain cleaner and for developing you can use baking soda. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 10/7/2011 7:23:51 PM EDT
[#43]
Originally Posted By VaderSpade:
http://www.randysrockshop.com/calguns/Dscn7253.jpg As I mover deeper I leave just a little more, kind of a step cut. This keeps shaving from being crushed against the side, and cleans up easily when we move to a full length end mill. Yes, exactly. I often do the same thing. But not on AR lowers. Yet. Another note about finish and the chips... I have found that when milling along an edge, I get a much better finish if I have the direction of the cut so that it is "pulling" the tool along the side surface. With respect to the above pic, that means on the FAR side of the picture, an endmill spinning clockwise (like almost everything does) would travel from right to left. Here, the tool's cutting path is counter clockwise around the fixture. This somewhat goes against what books teach or say to do. I've done almost 1000 hours of endmilling up against edges like that anytime I pay attention to direction, it looks better doing it this way. Books teach to have the tool cut into the direction of of travel (it looks to me like this is how the part pictured was cut). So on the far side: left to right; on the right side: far to near; etc etc. I have found that when cutting "properly" like this, I end up with a wavy finish similar to above. And when I get aggressive, I'll hear chattering and then chips will get smashed between the mill and the surface and stick there. I always have my spindle between 900 and 1000 rpm. Just my two more cents... if you try it, please let me know if it works for you or if it was a wasted effort. :) Chris |
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NC, USA
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Posted: 10/19/2011 6:57:34 AM EDT
[#44]
Nice work!
Remember Builders Squad - Alpha! |
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IL, USA
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Posted: 10/25/2011 6:42:16 PM EDT
[#45]
If you buy an 80% receiver that is already anodized such as the one offered Colfax tactical, will it matter if the trigger pocket is not anodized once you mill it out? I would like to use a trigger system like Timney's Trigger.
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CA, USA
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Posted: 10/26/2011 9:12:05 AM EDT
[#46]
Originally Posted By Evil363:
If you buy an 80% receiver that is already anodized such as the one offered Colfax tactical, will it matter if the trigger pocket is not anodized once you mill it out? I would like to use a trigger system like Timney's Trigger. Lots of people are doing it and I haven’t heard of any problems. Hell Plum Crazy make plastic lowers. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 10/26/2011 9:18:52 AM EDT
[#47]
I just got my new toy up and running. Now I just need to learn how to use it.
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Posted: 10/26/2011 12:06:52 PM EDT
[#48]
Originally Posted By VaderSpade: I just got my new toy up and running. Now I just need to learn how to use it. http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx174/VaderSpade/Dscn9278.jpg I would give my left testicle for one of those   Don't you need to move to South Florida for some reason, I'm looking for a new neighbor?  There's some really cool videos on youtube of the 1100 in action.  |
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Posted: 10/26/2011 2:05:36 PM EDT
[#49]
Nice.. now you can make your own stuff, as well as engrave. Nice.
You bought that to run a business or just for a hobby? |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 10/26/2011 2:46:54 PM EDT
[#50]
Originally Posted By Ryo:
Nice.. now you can make your own stuff, as well as engrave. Nice. You bought that to run a business or just for a hobby? I hope to work it into a business, but I think that will be a ways down the road. I do plan on holding some U-CNC build parties. :) we'll be doing AR-15's, AR-10'S, 10/22's, and at some point 1011's. |
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