The 1.5" from top of the rail to centerline of the scope is needed because of both your iron sights and that the AR stock comb is much higher than on bolt guns. That is so that when you put your cheek to the stock and look down the barrel, your eye lines up with the AR sights. Even with those sights removed, your eye is still at that high 1.5"(plus or minus a little) distance above the top of the rail. So, the centerline of the scope needs to line up with your eye. This is much different than with bolt guns, where the iron sights are down close to the barrel and where you want to keep the scope as low as possible. Won't work on an AR.
There is a second issue and that is the short upper rail on the AR. It is too short for most scopes to be mounted in standard one piece rings on each side of your turret, because to get proper eye relief (about 3-4" between the back of the scope and your eye), the scope has to be moved forward and the front ring will be ahead of your rail, out over the handguard with no place to attach. This is why we use cantilever mounts, The cheapest that work might be the Nikon P-mounts. These are two separate cantilevered mounts, each slanted forward. They are about $50 for the pair. For a fixed mount, the Leupold Mark 2 IMS is a lot better. It is a one piece cantilever that sells at street price for about $100. QD scope mounts that reliably return to zero are a good bit more expensive, but would let you use backup iron sights by removing the scope and have it return to zero when put back on the rail. Those mouunts, typically made by LaRue, ADM or Bobro, are going to set you back between $200 and $250, though.