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Not sure about the turret zero - but a boresighter would probably help. Was actually referring to how to reset exposed turret dials after zeroing. Was there supposed to be any instructional paperwork with these scopes? Another observation; as to 1x "fishbowling" it's slight at 10ft and under. Gone by 20ft. |
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Not sure about the turret zero - but a boresighter would probably help. Was actually referring to how to reset exposed turret dials after zeroing. Was there supposed to be any instructional paperwork with these scopes? Another observation; as to 1x "fishbowling" it's slight at 10ft and under. Gone by 20ft. I agree with this. Use an allen wrench to take the turret off then return to zero and retighten after you sight in your rifle. No, they dont come with instructions. It be nice if they did though. But this would probably lead to more overhead costs. |
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Just pulled the trigger on one of these off the samplelist. I'll be interested to see how it works on my recce; may need a new mount though. I've got an LT-104 SPR-1.5 here I was going to mount it in, but I'm thinking the eye relief may require an extended mount.
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Just pulled the trigger on one of these off the samplelist. I'll be interested to see how it works on my recce; may need a new mount though. I've got an LT-104 SPR-1.5 here I was going to mount it in, but I'm thinking the eye relief may require an extended mount. As has been covered and I can confirm, the 104 will work. Let's put it this way, it's what I had on hand. If I had an extended I'd have used it, but I think I'm just keeping the 104. It's that close to correct. |
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Just returned from a brief go at the range this afternoon. Conditions: 34F, cloudy, and windy.
Observations: - the magnification ring, which is sluggish under normal circumstances, was downright stiff in the cold. In my opinion, a cattail would be mandatory under these conditions. - used the brightest illumination setting, and against a medium brown dirt berm the red seemed a bit subdued. Still visible, but definitely not bright. Don't know if this was a function of the temperature affecting either the battery or the illumination itself. |
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Anybody else got any "floaters" in the Ret.? Just looking at white wall on 1x I noticed I have a crisp black fleck at about 4-5 o'clock. It's irregular in shape, about as thick as the thin post outside above donut and about as long as the mid thickness post outside donut is wide. As the magnification goes up it moves off frame by about 1 1/8 mag. In my poor attempt at ret. photography you can basically see its size and position. 4ish 0'clock near outer edge. Spot is actually just as crisp,clear and defined as the rest of reticle when looking at it and when viewed real time it doesn't look anywhere near so small as my photo. http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1dd25b3127ccefcdce1533f8e00000030O00AbsmrVo5btGIPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/ Call SWFA, mine is crystal clear. |
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Also, I adjusted my SS this afternoon in the BOBRO mount. Moved it all the way forward and it made a huge difference. In doing so it allows for a NTCH head position with 3/8"-1/2" off the tip of your shnozzer. Just right.
As for the fishbowl comments, are you sure you have the ocular adjusted right? Mine doesn't do that at all. It's perfect. At arm's length or so - the magnification like all 1X scopes appears larger than your ambient FOV. Past that the sight picture is 1X. Search for Molon's thread on this in the optics forum. Explains the concept in much greater detail. |
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Also, I adjusted my SS this afternoon in the BOBRO mount. Moved it all the way forward and it made a huge difference. In doing so it allows for a NTCH head position with 3/8"-1/2" off the tip of your shnozzer. Just right. Please post pic of where it sits now. I may go extended after all. As for the fishbowl comments, are you sure you have the ocular adjusted right? Mine doesn't do that at all. It's perfect. At arm's length or so - the magnification like all 1X scopes appears larger than your ambient FOV. Past that the sight picture is 1X. Search for Molon's thread on this in the optics forum. Explains the concept in much greater detail.
I modify my earlier comment to agree that it's less "fishbowl" more "larger than ambient FOV" and smooths out to true 1x by no more than 20ft. Kind of on the same subject, I'm having more focus trouble with this optic than with any in a long time. I've settled on the ocular being turned out farther than seems correct to me (3/16-1/4" out from clockwise tight) but.... if I get ret. sharp target is a little off and if I get target sharp ret. is a little off and then seems very head position sensitive for ret. focus. Also noticed outer edges of FOV are a bit sharper than center at all ocular settings. |
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Roger that. You're pretty much where mine ended up pushed forward in Larue LT-104. If an extended falls in my lap great, if not OK too. Seems I have a couple more pressing problems to deal with anyway ie;
Gonna mess around a little more. Sooner than later Brady from SWFA is sure to come along and offer help. |
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As for the fishbowl comments, are you sure you have the ocular adjusted right? Mine doesn't do that at all. It's perfect. At arm's length or so - the magnification like all 1X scopes appears larger than your ambient FOV. Past that the sight picture is 1X. Search for Molon's thread on this in the optics forum. Explains the concept in much greater detail. Here is a comment from an optical engineer in regards to true 1x that was posted on SnipersHide.com http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2383141#Post2383141 Closer objects seem to be magnified more than objects that are further away with a ~1x optic. This due to the fact that, in simple terms, when looking through the scope, you are "closer" to the target optically by about the length of the scope (actually it's the distance between the first and the second focal plane). Looking at the target with one eye through the scope and the other eye open, you will notice a difference in magnification for different distances. For objects that are far away, you will see the "true" magnification of the scope, for closer objects, magnification will appear to be higher. This is because optically you are let's say 8 inches closer to your target optically when looking through the scope. This does not matter at long ranges, moving 8 inches closer to the target at a range of 300 yards will not make the target appear noticeably bigger, but moving 8 inches closer at a distance of 5 feet definitely will. Thats why even a true 1x scope will have a higher apparent magnification than 1x at very short distances. _________________________ www.optronika.de |
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Roger that. You're pretty much where mine ended up pushed forward in Larue LT-104. If an extended falls in my lap great, if not OK too. Seems I have a couple more pressing problems to deal with anyway ie;
Gonna mess around a little more. Sooner than later Brady from SWFA is sure to come along and offer help. Brady, understand SWFA working on Battery Cap fix. All good on that account. Understand explanation you provide on true 1x and I think the scope works fine in that regard. Was referring to this as to focus and clarity issues; I'm having more focus trouble with this optic than with any in a long time. I've settled on the ocular being turned out farther than seems correct to me (3/16-1/4" out from clockwise tight) but.... if I get ret. sharp target is a little off and if I get target sharp ret. is a little off and then seems very head position sensitive for ret. focus. Also noticed outer edges of FOV are a bit sharper than center at all ocular settings
What's the accepted procedure on this? Lastly, may all be moot point as I have a ret. floater that may mean we have to replace unit??? Please direct and advise. Loving the scope just have to work out the issues. |
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Correct procedure for the ocular focus is to aim the scope at the sky (on 4x) and turn the ocular until the reticle is as sharp as you can get it. Put the scope down, let your eye rest and repeat. It is important to aim it at the sky so that there is nothing in your FOV for your eye to focus on other than the reticle.
Once you have the reticle focused, lock the ocular with the locking ring. We will replace your scope and send a call tag for your current one. Let's take it to PM or e-mail so I can get your details. [email protected] |
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Thanks for jumping in Brady and providing that explanation. Went out this weekend in the rain for a few mags. Can't get enough of this scope. I'm going to look for see through flip caps for the SS. They'll make a huge difference on those wet / snowy days.
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Great review and an informative thread. I just ordered one myself with the CQC donut reticle and covered turrets.
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Quoted: Great review and an informative thread. I just ordered one myself with the CQC donut reticle and covered turrets. My order showed up at the end of last week, and I'm impressed with it thus far. Admittedly, I haven't shot it yet. Got pre-order in for the cat tail as changing magnification quickly isn't going to happen with just the ring. So far, I haven't found anything to regret the purchase, and I'm very excited about utilizing the reticule. On a bright sunny day in Texas, the lit reticule was plenty bright enough on 1X on various backgrounds and basically turned black when pointed to the bright blue sky. Anxious to get it on the range, but it will be a little while.
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I just ordered one and can't wait to receive it.
Is there an estimate on when a cat tail will be available? |
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Quoted: I just ordered one and can't wait to receive it. Is there an estimate on when a cat tail will be available? Here |
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Switchviews will be available around early April. They will be up on the site tomorrow for pre order. Here's a sample pic before anodizing http://www.opticstalk.com/uploads/298/Switchview.jpg Never used one of those before. Is there a reason it is so tall? |
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Switchviews will be available around early April. They will be up on the site tomorrow for pre order. Here's a sample pic before anodizing http://www.opticstalk.com/uploads/298/Switchview.jpg Never used one of those before. Is there a reason it is so tall? For good leverage and ease of use when handling it. BTW, great job SWFA, these look good! |
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Ok the Switchview is up on the site for pre order.
http://swfa.com/SWFA-SS-Switchview-Throwlever-P49277.aspx We should be able to ship them early April. |
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Great to see others are finding this scope as slick as I do. Nice point too regarding the objective lens' inset distance from the frame.
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Just spoke with SWFA customer service - I have to send the scope back on my dime and they'll ship a replacement when they receive it.
Looks like I'm out another two weeks before I get any range time with it. |
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That's not right, we don't ever do that.
I'm headed to CS right now to find out who you spoke with and retrain them. Expect a call or e-mail shortly with new instructions regarding your return/exchange. |
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Quoted: That's not right, we don't ever do that. I'm headed to CS right now to find out who you spoke with and retrain them. Expect a call or e-mail shortly with new instructions regarding your return/exchange. That right there is why SWFA is GTG. |
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That's not right, we don't ever do that. I'm headed to CS right now to find out who you spoke with and retrain them. Expect a call or e-mail shortly with new instructions regarding your return/exchange. Email received! New scope on the way with pre-paid return box to ship old one back. My sincere thanks for taking care of this! PS - I have been buying from SWFA for many years and will certainly continue to do so! |
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Quoted: That is why I don't hesitate to buy or recommend any SWFA products. If and when they come out with SS midrange magnification scope I will order it sight unseen.Quoted: That's not right, we don't ever do that. I'm headed to CS right now to find out who you spoke with and retrain them. Expect a call or e-mail shortly with new instructions regarding your return/exchange. That right there is why SWFA is GTG. |
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Has anyone noticed that only the highest setting (11) works when the battery is going low? I noticed that only my 11th setting was working and thought I was having more problms with the illumination until I put the spare battery and now all the settings work. They still have the same problem of only coming on when going from high to low, but they work. The battery ran out pretty fast, but at least ill always have a spare on hand.
ETA: Does SWFA have any idea when the new battery caps will be ready? 1 month? 2 months? 4 months? 6 months? |
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Has anyone noticed that only the highest setting (11) works when the battery is going low? I noticed that only my 11th setting was working and thought I was having more problms with the illumination until I put the spare battery and now all the settings work. They still have the same problem of only coming on when going from high to low, but they work. The battery ran out pretty fast, but at least ill always have a spare on hand. I noticed a big jump in brightness from setting 10 to 11. I'd call setting 11 "nuclear" as it is really bright. That said, I'm not a fan of using illumination in daylight when there is a perfectly good reticle to put to use. My new scope arrives tomorrow and my Larue LT-139 arrives on Monday. Will post some pics of my stick next week. |
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Has anyone noticed that only the highest setting (11) works when the battery is going low? I noticed that only my 11th setting was working and thought I was having more problms with the illumination until I put the spare battery and now all the settings work. They still have the same problem of only coming on when going from high to low, but they work. The battery ran out pretty fast, but at least ill always have a spare on hand. I noticed a big jump in brightness from setting 10 to 11. I'd call setting 11 "nuclear" as it is really bright. That said, I'm not a fan of using illumination in daylight when there is a perfectly good reticle to put to use. My new scope arrives tomorrow and my Larue LT-139 arrives on Monday. Will post some pics of my stick next week. I agree. 11 is disproportionately bright but i don't call that a bad thing. |
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Has anyone noticed that only the highest setting (11) works when the battery is going low? I noticed that only my 11th setting was working and thought I was having more problms with the illumination until I put the spare battery and now all the settings work. They still have the same problem of only coming on when going from high to low, but they work. The battery ran out pretty fast, but at least ill always have a spare on hand. I noticed a big jump in brightness from setting 10 to 11. I'd call setting 11 "nuclear" as it is really bright. That said, I'm not a fan of using illumination in daylight when there is a perfectly good reticle to put to use. My new scope arrives tomorrow and my Larue LT-139 arrives on Monday. Will post some pics of my stick next week. I agree. 11 is disproportionately bright but i don't call that a bad thing. I would go so far to say that 11 is the daylight setting and the rest belong between dusk and dawn. In the event the 11 setting isn't bright enough the reticle's black circle and posts keep your attention right where it should be. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Has anyone noticed that only the highest setting (11) works when the battery is going low? I noticed that only my 11th setting was working and thought I was having more problms with the illumination until I put the spare battery and now all the settings work. They still have the same problem of only coming on when going from high to low, but they work. The battery ran out pretty fast, but at least ill always have a spare on hand. I noticed a big jump in brightness from setting 10 to 11. I'd call setting 11 "nuclear" as it is really bright. That said, I'm not a fan of using illumination in daylight when there is a perfectly good reticle to put to use. My new scope arrives tomorrow and my Larue LT-139 arrives on Monday. Will post some pics of my stick next week. I agree. 11 is disproportionately bright but i don't call that a bad thing. I would go so far to say that 11 is the daylight setting and the rest belong between dusk and dawn. In the event the 11 setting isn't bright enough the reticle's black circle and posts keep your attention right where it should be. Y'all keep talking about setting 11 and I keep hearing the line from 'Spinal Tap'. |
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I would go so far to say that 11 is the daylight setting and the rest belong between dusk and dawn. In the event the 11 setting isn't bright enough the reticle's black circle and posts keep your attention right where it should be. I agree with that assessment! I'm looking forward to using the new scope for the AR barricade session at the NEShooters 2011 Summit in a few weeks. |
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My Larue LT-139 mount showed up today and I assembled the scope & mount to the rifle. With the turrets centered in the rings and the mount placed all the way forward on the receiver, the scope position is IMO perfect. I set my UBR stock 1 notch out and for my eyes, the relief is just right.
I hope to get some range time this weekend. |
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