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Posted: 2/27/2016 2:43:02 PM EDT
[#1]
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I was more wondering about a different coating on the BCG than the rod itself. Where the rod appeared to be untreated or coated, I just wondered about a NiB or hard chrome on the BCG chipping. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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I emailed these guys , never heard back.....prob just busy, just wondering if they are going to offer the BCG in NiB or hard chrome maybe? thanks doug I wonder how a coating would hold up to the piston rod. Where as it's currently a surface treatment that's not an issue. You might try to call him if you don't hear back from your email. I talked to Tony yesterday because I received my kit. This thing is freaking light, probably half the weight of the Adams Arms. I originally thought the piston rod was 416-R stainless steel, however he said it was an expensive and very hard and corrosive resistant steel, which needs a different process to be melonited. He told me because I asked him why the rod wasn't melonited to begin with because stainless steel can be melonited. He said it is much stronger than 416-R. However I don't remember what kind of steel it is. I think he said it was HP something or other. I'm sure you could MADBlack coat these and it would be nice, perhaps enhance functionality. I was more wondering about a different coating on the BCG than the rod itself. Where the rod appeared to be untreated or coated, I just wondered about a NiB or hard chrome on the BCG chipping. Idk much about ionbond. However i know thats what they use. Everything else that's coated is melonited. I'm pretty sure ionbond is DLC. However ionbond is a company that does many treatments. |
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Posted: 2/29/2016 2:48:49 PM EDT
[#2]
melonited is fine.....I was just seeing if there were options, this will be my most expensive build, at least as far as 5.56 goes so just wanting the best parts I can get :-)
doug |
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Posted: 3/4/2016 8:41:11 PM EDT
[#3]
ok, another question for the guys who have their kits.....what is the size ie:diameter of the op rod, same as a gas tube? I know it has to fit in the same broached hole so it should be the same? reason I ask is I am gonna try to use a SLR handguard and they are using [ 3rd gen] a "key" for a better word that sits at the top of the barrel nut and straddles the gas tube or piston rod and I am wondering if there is enough clearance or ok to use this type of anti rotation system with the piston kit.
thanks doug |
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Posted: 3/4/2016 8:59:40 PM EDT
[#4]
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ok, another question for the guys who have their kits.....what is the size ie:diameter of the op rod, same as a gas tube? I know it has to fit in the same broached hole so it should be the same? reason I ask is I am gonna try to use a SLR handguard and they are using [ 3rd gen] a "key" for a better word that sits at the top of the barrel nut and straddles the gas tube or piston rod and I am wondering if there is enough clearance or ok to use this type of anti rotation system with the piston kit. thanks doug Good question. Can you post a link to the hand guard? |
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Posted: 3/5/2016 9:54:02 PM EDT
[#5]
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Good question. Can you post a link to the hand guard? Quote HistoryQuoted:
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ok, another question for the guys who have their kits.....what is the size ie:diameter of the op rod, same as a gas tube? I know it has to fit in the same broached hole so it should be the same? reason I ask is I am gonna try to use a SLR handguard and they are using [ 3rd gen] a "key" for a better word that sits at the top of the barrel nut and straddles the gas tube or piston rod and I am wondering if there is enough clearance or ok to use this type of anti rotation system with the piston kit. thanks doug Good question. Can you post a link to the hand guard? here is a link to the "key" and there is a pic inset that shows its position at the top of the handguard above the barrel nut: http://slrrifleworks.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=97_98&product_id=450 doug |
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Posted: 3/6/2016 3:23:00 PM EDT
[#6]
I wanted to use a SLR Quad rail, but at the time they were out of stock.
I did call SLR and their Solo series will accept a SA piston retrofit kit. But he cautioned that not all of the Solo rails will work. I asked specifically about their Quad rail, and was told that will work. http://slrrifleworks.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=66_106_137 http://slrrifleworks.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=66_106_137_130 With SLR out of stock at the time I was looking for a solution for my build, I found and went with a Samson quad rail I found on GB. The SLR Quads are in stock right now. Damn, a week too late for me. |
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Posted: 3/6/2016 4:25:01 PM EDT
[#7]
I am hoping to use a solo or solo mid or maybe an intrepid, have not mad up my mind yet, from the drawings on the internal dimensions I should be able to use the set screw gas block kit, I am just curious if that antirotation key will cause any interference with operation of the rod.
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Posted: 3/6/2016 4:50:44 PM EDT
[#8]
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I am hoping to use a solo or solo mid or maybe an intrepid, have not mad up my mind yet, from the drawings on the internal dimensions I should be able to use the set screw gas block kit, I am just curious if that antirotation key will cause any interference with operation of the rod. I looked at that and I don't think it would interfere. You may have to use the bushing that comes with the Superlative kit though to keep it from rubbing. I am just just guessing though. I don't know why a FF rail manufacturer would make a part that actually comes in contact with the gas tube, so that is why I am guessing you would have enough space. |
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Posted: 3/6/2016 9:16:32 PM EDT
[#9]
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I looked at that and I don't think it would interfere. You may have to use the bushing that comes with the Superlative kit though to keep it from rubbing. I am just just guessing though. I don't know why a FF rail manufacturer would make a part that actually comes in contact with the gas tube, so that is why I am guessing you would have enough space. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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I am hoping to use a solo or solo mid or maybe an intrepid, have not mad up my mind yet, from the drawings on the internal dimensions I should be able to use the set screw gas block kit, I am just curious if that antirotation key will cause any interference with operation of the rod. I looked at that and I don't think it would interfere. You may have to use the bushing that comes with the Superlative kit though to keep it from rubbing. I am just just guessing though. I don't know why a FF rail manufacturer would make a part that actually comes in contact with the gas tube, so that is why I am guessing you would have enough space. so, how does that bushing install, I see that they include the "installation tool" but are you required to drill the broached hole that the gas tube/rod goes thru? thanks as always doug |
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Posted: 3/6/2016 9:28:58 PM EDT
[#10]
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so, how does that bushing install, I see that they include the "installation tool" but are you required to drill the broached hole that the gas tube/rod goes thru? thanks as always doug Quote HistoryQuoted:
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I am hoping to use a solo or solo mid or maybe an intrepid, have not mad up my mind yet, from the drawings on the internal dimensions I should be able to use the set screw gas block kit, I am just curious if that antirotation key will cause any interference with operation of the rod. I looked at that and I don't think it would interfere. You may have to use the bushing that comes with the Superlative kit though to keep it from rubbing. I am just just guessing though. I don't know why a FF rail manufacturer would make a part that actually comes in contact with the gas tube, so that is why I am guessing you would have enough space. so, how does that bushing install, I see that they include the "installation tool" but are you required to drill the broached hole that the gas tube/rod goes thru? thanks as always doug No drilling, Just remove the CH and BCG. Then put the bushing on the tool and lightly tap it in. I have heard to put a drop or two of red loctite on the outside of the bushing, although I'm not 100% sure that is necessary. I guess if it's loose then it wouldn't hurt. The bushing install is universal, so I would assume if you watched an Adams Arms video then it would be the same. |
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Posted: 3/6/2016 11:16:04 PM EDT
[#11]
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No drilling, Just remove the CH and BCG. Then put the bushing on the tool and lightly tap it in. I have heard to put a drop or two of red loctite on the outside of the bushing, although I'm not 100% sure that is necessary. I guess if it's loose then it wouldn't hurt. The bushing install is universal, so I would assume if you watched an Adams Arms video then it would be the same. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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I am hoping to use a solo or solo mid or maybe an intrepid, have not mad up my mind yet, from the drawings on the internal dimensions I should be able to use the set screw gas block kit, I am just curious if that antirotation key will cause any interference with operation of the rod. I looked at that and I don't think it would interfere. You may have to use the bushing that comes with the Superlative kit though to keep it from rubbing. I am just just guessing though. I don't know why a FF rail manufacturer would make a part that actually comes in contact with the gas tube, so that is why I am guessing you would have enough space. so, how does that bushing install, I see that they include the "installation tool" but are you required to drill the broached hole that the gas tube/rod goes thru? thanks as always doug No drilling, Just remove the CH and BCG. Then put the bushing on the tool and lightly tap it in. I have heard to put a drop or two of red loctite on the outside of the bushing, although I'm not 100% sure that is necessary. I guess if it's loose then it wouldn't hurt. The bushing install is universal, so I would assume if you watched an Adams Arms video then it would be the same. It says give it a light tap to get it in straight, then put as much strength to get it in as necessary. Mine was extremely difficult to install. It was a tight fit. |
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Posted: 3/7/2016 12:09:08 AM EDT
[#12]
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It says give it a light tap to get it in straight, then put as much strength to get it in as necessary. Mine was extremely difficult to install. It was a tight fit. I didn't use mine with the KMR per Tony's recommendation. The only thing the rod came close to was the clover. |
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Posted: 3/7/2016 11:43:46 AM EDT
[#13]
thanks guys I really appreciate the help, really wanting to try this piston build as my third ar build as I have a AeroP build with DI and a 7.62x39 build in the works and its DI as well........
lots of nice folks on here, doug |
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Posted: 3/13/2016 9:34:06 PM EDT
[#15]
Update in OP.
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Posted: 3/14/2016 2:18:33 AM EDT
[#16]
Those Troy sights are seksy. Got me a pair.
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Posted: 3/22/2016 12:13:25 AM EDT
[#17]
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I used the bushing and spent a fair amount of time making sure the rod didnt bind. I aligned it by eyeball/close by eye and tighted the screws to 15in lb. Then I lightly tapped it into final positiin with a nylon jewelers hammer untill there was no binding no matter how I spun the rod. Also there is a small amount of play with the anti rotate tab untill you torque the cross bolts down.... What can I say I am an OCD perfectionist. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Yup, no worries about adding a Keymod VFG or Rail Covers. The only thing that might cause a clearence issue is the Stud for the bipod but on an SBR you wont be using one of those. Install was easy, just read the directions and it goes together easy. How did you get the gas block perfectly straight so it didn't touch? Just by eyeing it like the instructions say or did you have to put the hand guard on and test fit it a few times? I used the bushing and spent a fair amount of time making sure the rod didnt bind. I aligned it by eyeball/close by eye and tighted the screws to 15in lb. Then I lightly tapped it into final positiin with a nylon jewelers hammer untill there was no binding no matter how I spun the rod. Also there is a small amount of play with the anti rotate tab untill you torque the cross bolts down.... What can I say I am an OCD perfectionist. Yes sir! Let's hear it for OCD and gun building! I am of the same OCD method of gun smithing. Trust me, OCD pays off when it comes to gun building. All my builds take a long time but run great right from the first shot ...and even better once I fine tune them. The procedure you describe is exactly how you set up a piston system. I like to remove any spring (during set up) so I can really feel the op-rod and it's movements. I twirl and slide the rod, and adjust the block so there is zero binding. Piston kits love this... and run like a top when assembled like this. My experience dates back to the first year AA kits came out and I was NOT so careful about binding. I learned very fast how to properly set up a piston kit. Note: Always be on the look out for two other sand traps....1) Your gas block hole is not drilled in the correct place. This will play hell on a piston kit. 2) Your gas hole is undersized. I had both things happen to me in various builds. I even had to shorten an op-rod once to make it work with a Daniel Defense barrel that had a gas block hole and shoulder machined out of spec. I also had a BCM barrel that had a slightly undersized gas hole that I had to enlarge. Both fixes made the pistons work 100% on both builds. To the OP. I enjoyed this thread. Good to see a guy doing things right! Go OCD!!!! :) |
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Posted: 3/22/2016 12:31:16 AM EDT
[#18]
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I may have to give this a try. Shooting suppressed and left handed still sucks with my current adjustable gas block. The only thing making me hold off is having to send my upper back to ADCO to have the GB pinned. How much gas would still be coming out using the piston kit, vs just the GB with bleed off? I understand why you might want to get a gas block pinned. I do. Any set screw gas block should always be pinned IMO. Beter yet, NEVER use a set screw gas block..ever. Now, the CLAMP on style of gas blocks from Syrac and Sup Arms are nothing short of amazing. Use red loctite on the clamping screws and that block is there for life. You can take a 10 pound sledge to it and it will not budge. The barrel would distort first. I have done some pretty extreme torture tests on clamp on blocks and have never been able to move them a micron. I bed all my gas blocks with Loctite 620 which helps. And this same 620 green or hi strength red can be used on the clamping machine screws. Removal? Just hit it with a propane torch. Doesnt hurt a thing and the screws can be loosened... and the block can be coaxed off with little to no fuss. I am against pinning for a few reasons; 1) It costs money and time and shipping etc 2) Pinning simply is not necessary when a gas block is assembled as I have outlined. 3) Pinning can and usually does distort the inside of your barrel which can affect accuracy. You can research this if you wish 4) Did I say, "It cost time, money and hassle"? Just say "yes" to clamp ons and "no thanks" to pinning. My results come from years of highly successful builds. I beat the CRAP out of my Ar's and the gas blocks never get whacked out of alignment...ever. |
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Posted: 3/23/2016 10:42:49 AM EDT
[#19]
@Keith
I contacted Tony to ask him the length and specs to the clamp on screw. |
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Posted: 3/23/2016 11:40:12 AM EDT
[#20]
How would I adjust this on a pistol gas 13" rail ( my 300 blk)?
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Posted: 3/23/2016 12:20:38 PM EDT
[#21]
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@Keith I contacted Tony to ask him the length and specs to the clamp on screw. Let me know. I also sent him an email but he hasn't responded. Actually he hasn't responded to my last one either which is odd for him. |
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Posted: 3/23/2016 12:21:58 PM EDT
[#22]
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How would I adjust this on a pistol gas 13" rail ( my 300 blk)? It comes with a long ass Allen key. Not sure if that would be long enough though. |
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Posted: 3/23/2016 5:27:54 PM EDT
[#23]
I can measure mine when I got off from work (~12 hours), if Tony hasn't responded by then.
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Let me know. I also sent him an email but he hasn't responded. Actually he hasn't responded to my last one either which is odd for him. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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@Keith I contacted Tony to ask him the length and specs to the clamp on screw. Let me know. I also sent him an email but he hasn't responded. Actually he hasn't responded to my last one either which is odd for him. |
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Posted: 3/23/2016 6:22:13 PM EDT
[#24]
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I can measure mine when I got off from work (~12 hours), if Tony hasn't responded by then. Quote HistoryQuoted:
I can measure mine when I got off from work (~12 hours), if Tony hasn't responded by then. Quoted:
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@Keith I contacted Tony to ask him the length and specs to the clamp on screw. Let me know. I also sent him an email but he hasn't responded. Actually he hasn't responded to my last one either which is odd for him. Thanks. I had an extra and it is 3/8". I am more concerned with the thread and diameter. I think they are 6-32 x 3/8" but I could be wrong. Let me know what you find out. |
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Posted: 3/23/2016 7:30:29 PM EDT
[#25]
So I found a 6-32 screw in a bag and compared it to the SA screw I had extra. It sure as shit looks the same. I found these screws for a good price. What do you guys think?
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Posted: 3/23/2016 8:41:52 PM EDT
[#26]
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So I found a 6-32 screw in a bag and compared it to the SA screw I had extra. It sure as shit looks the same. I found these screws for a good price. What do you guys think? As long as they clear the rail and fit snug and strong. Didn't the other guy say to get [grade 8]? I would buy them and test, but I can't right now given that I don't have a barrel to test (waiting on AA). |
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Posted: 3/23/2016 8:52:58 PM EDT
[#27]
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As long as they clear the rail and fit snug and strong. Didn't the other guy say to get [grade 8]? I would buy them and test, but I can't right now given that I don't have a barrel to test (waiting on AA). Quote HistoryQuoted:
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So I found a 6-32 screw in a bag and compared it to the SA screw I had extra. It sure as shit looks the same. I found these screws for a good price. What do you guys think? As long as they clear the rail and fit snug and strong. Didn't the other guy say to get [grade 8]? I would buy them and test, but I can't right now given that I don't have a barrel to test (waiting on AA). Those are grade 8. |
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Posted: 3/23/2016 9:01:24 PM EDT
[#28]
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So I found a 6-32 screw in a bag and compared it to the SA screw I had extra. It sure as shit looks the same. I found these screws for a good price. What do you guys think? That's what I used. #6-32 x 3/8" long. Worked fine. The screws I got had a slightly larger head diameter than the socket head screws and would not quite fit down into the countersunk hole in the gas block. No big deal. Just chucked the screw shank in an electric drill leaving a little clearance under the head and used a file to take off a little of the screw head od. The screws are harder than you might think, so take your time. Of course, the screws from your source may be ok without mods. Vic |
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Posted: 3/23/2016 9:54:07 PM EDT
[#29]
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That's what I used. #6-32 x 3/8" long. Worked fine. The screws I got had a slightly larger head diameter than the socket head screws and would not quite fit down into the countersunk hole in the gas block. No big deal. Just chucked the screw shank in an electric drill leaving a little clearance under the head and used a file to take off a little of the screw head od. The screws are harder than you might think, so take your time. Of course, the screws from your source may be ok without mods. Vic Quote HistoryQuoted:
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So I found a 6-32 screw in a bag and compared it to the SA screw I had extra. It sure as shit looks the same. I found these screws for a good price. What do you guys think? That's what I used. #6-32 x 3/8" long. Worked fine. The screws I got had a slightly larger head diameter than the socket head screws and would not quite fit down into the countersunk hole in the gas block. No big deal. Just chucked the screw shank in an electric drill leaving a little clearance under the head and used a file to take off a little of the screw head od. The screws are harder than you might think, so take your time. Of course, the screws from your source may be ok without mods. Vic I think we can find one with less head diameter. I'll look after work. |
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Posted: 3/23/2016 9:58:38 PM EDT
[#30]
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I think we can find one with less head diameter. I'll look after work. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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So I found a 6-32 screw in a bag and compared it to the SA screw I had extra. It sure as shit looks the same. I found these screws for a good price. What do you guys think? That's what I used. #6-32 x 3/8" long. Worked fine. The screws I got had a slightly larger head diameter than the socket head screws and would not quite fit down into the countersunk hole in the gas block. No big deal. Just chucked the screw shank in an electric drill leaving a little clearance under the head and used a file to take off a little of the screw head od. The screws are harder than you might think, so take your time. Of course, the screws from your source may be ok without mods. Vic I think we can find one with less head diameter. I'll look after work. Thanks bud. I have been looking like crazy. About to go to bed over here on the east coast so I'll see what you found in the morning. The link I posted says 180,000 lb tensile strength but I feel like the hobby shop might not be the best. That shop has a good rep though. |
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Posted: 3/24/2016 8:39:16 AM EDT
[#31]
here you go, hope that helps...
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Posted: 3/24/2016 12:18:35 PM EDT
[#32]
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Thanks bud. I have been looking like crazy. About to go to bed over here on the east coast so I'll see what you found in the morning. The link I posted says 180,000 lb tensile strength but I feel like the hobby shop might not be the best. That shop has a good rep though. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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So I found a 6-32 screw in a bag and compared it to the SA screw I had extra. It sure as shit looks the same. I found these screws for a good price. What do you guys think? That's what I used. #6-32 x 3/8" long. Worked fine. The screws I got had a slightly larger head diameter than the socket head screws and would not quite fit down into the countersunk hole in the gas block. No big deal. Just chucked the screw shank in an electric drill leaving a little clearance under the head and used a file to take off a little of the screw head od. The screws are harder than you might think, so take your time. Of course, the screws from your source may be ok without mods. Vic I think we can find one with less head diameter. I'll look after work. Thanks bud. I have been looking like crazy. About to go to bed over here on the east coast so I'll see what you found in the morning. The link I posted says 180,000 lb tensile strength but I feel like the hobby shop might not be the best. That shop has a good rep though. I couldn't find anything strong enough. I was looking for the low cap head |
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Posted: 3/24/2016 12:25:17 PM EDT
[#33]
Thanks anyway. I ordered 100 of the hex head and 100 of the torx plus from McMaster. I figured with that many I can file some down until I get it just right. They say they are stronger than Grade 8.
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Posted: 3/24/2016 12:36:16 PM EDT
[#34]
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Thanks anyway. I ordered 100 of the hex head and 100 of the torx plus from McMaster. I figured with that many I can file some down until I get it just right. They say they are stronger than Grade 8. Links? |
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Posted: 3/24/2016 12:49:46 PM EDT
[#35]
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Posted: 3/24/2016 3:59:36 PM EDT
[#36]
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here you go, hope that helps... http://i1288.photobucket.com/albums/b482/icurabeachguy/_S010590_zpslfahv5gd.jpg http://i1288.photobucket.com/albums/b482/icurabeachguy/_S010589_zpsjmlcddzo.jpg Can you mic just the head? The height. Basically what you just did minus the threads. Thanks. |
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Posted: 3/24/2016 4:24:27 PM EDT
[#37]
I got an email back from Tony. This is what he said "6-32 X 3/8 socket head cap screws. That is the first time I’ve heard that. Everyone else mentions that is fits. Try holding the handguard in a fixed position so that the screws don’t interfere and then tighten it down."
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Posted: 3/24/2016 5:24:51 PM EDT
[#38]
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I got an email back from Tony. This is what he said "6-32 X 3/8 socket head cap screws. That is the first time I’ve heard that. Everyone else mentions that is fits. Try holding the handguard in a fixed position so that the screws don’t interfere and then tighten it down." Hmmm..not sure how that would work. The KMR goes on tight as shit and straight without the bolts even in there. It's not like it has any extra play to push down. Plus I just put a level on my upper and the rail and it is perfectly aligned as it sits. |
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Posted: 3/28/2016 3:21:32 AM EDT
[#39]
Keith have you thought about grade 8 set screws? link
I assume since it's recessed it would probably need to be like 1/2 inch instead of 3/8. 1/16 key size seems interesting as it is a tad bit smaller than the key size of the button cap screws. What other everyone's thoughts? |
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Posted: 3/28/2016 4:51:02 AM EDT
[#40]
The screw needs a head on it to pinch the clamp together.
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Posted: 3/28/2016 11:21:27 AM EDT
[#41]
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The screw needs a head on it to pinch the clamp together. here I called the manufacturer and they told me it's Grade A alloy steel, which are allbto Grade 8 spec. Idk what that mean |
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Posted: 3/28/2016 11:29:26 AM EDT
[#42]
Another here
From what I read, ASTM A574 is stronger than Grade 8 and has higher strength applications. The only thing I can't find is the different between heat tolerances. I do see that the Grade 8 is treated at a minimum of 800f and ASTM A574 is no lower than 650. Straight from fastenal's PDF: SAE J429 Grade 8' • Tensile Strength: 150,000 PSI minimum • Proof Strength: 120,000 PSI • Yield Strength: 130,000 PSI minimum • Hardness: HRC 33-39 ASTM A574 Socket Head Cap Screw: • Tensile Strength: 180,000 PSI minimum (through ½”), 170,000 PSI minimum (above ½”) • Proof Strength: 140,000 PSI (through ½”), 135,000 PSI (above ½”) • Yield Strength: 153,000 PSI minimum • Hardness: HRC 39-45 (through ½”), HRC 37-45 (above ½”) |
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Posted: 3/28/2016 5:52:54 PM EDT
[#43]
The only thing that bothers me about those low profile heads is that they all say they can't take as high of a pre-load as the regular head. That and they use a smaller driver which has a tendency to strip a LOT easier. Thanks for looking though and I'll keep them in mind if my current plan doesn't work.
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Posted: 3/28/2016 6:48:01 PM EDT
[#44]
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The only thing that bothers me about those low profile heads is that they all say they can't take as high of a pre-load as the regular head. That and they use a smaller driver which has a tendency to strip a LOT easier. Thanks for looking though and I'll keep them in mind if my current plan doesn't work. I'm assuming that we're not using anywhere close to 150k tensile strength. It says it can't typically have as much preload, however when you modify a button screw or a socket head then you're also removing some strength and creating inconsistent tolerances. Since ASTM A574 is a about 20k tensile strength stronger than I would think that would make up more than enough of the strength. When we strip Allen screws it's usually mild and low strength steel with low Rockwell hardness or we are simply using a cheap Allen wrench rather than a proper tool. These things are not Home Depot or Lowe's grade, they're more like machine shop and aerospace grade. Material makes worldnof differences. |
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Posted: 3/28/2016 7:22:14 PM EDT
[#45]
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I'm assuming that we're not using anywhere close to 150k tensile strength. It says it can't typically have as much preload, however when you modify a button screw or a socket head then you're also removing some strength and creating inconsistent tolerances. Since ASTM A574 is a about 20k tensile strength stronger than I would think that would make up more than enough of the strength. When we strip Allen screws it's usually mild and low strength steel with low Rockwell hardness or we are simply using a cheap Allen wrench rather than a proper tool. These things are not Home Depot or Lowe's grade, they're more like machine shop and aerospace grade. Material makes worldnof differences. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
The only thing that bothers me about those low profile heads is that they all say they can't take as high of a pre-load as the regular head. That and they use a smaller driver which has a tendency to strip a LOT easier. Thanks for looking though and I'll keep them in mind if my current plan doesn't work. I'm assuming that we're not using anywhere close to 150k tensile strength. It says it can't typically have as much preload, however when you modify a button screw or a socket head then you're also removing some strength and creating inconsistent tolerances. Since ASTM A574 is a about 20k tensile strength stronger than I would think that would make up more than enough of the strength. When we strip Allen screws it's usually mild and low strength steel with low Rockwell hardness or we are simply using a cheap Allen wrench rather than a proper tool. These things are not Home Depot or Lowe's grade, they're more like machine shop and aerospace grade. Material makes worldnof differences. Yea you're probably right. I just got the screws in from McMaster and the heads seem to be SLIGHTLY smaller than the ones that came with the kit. Even if I grind down just a little, which is all I'll need, I will still have way more material than those low profile screws. I might order some anyways just to test out. If you want a can send you some of each for your build for helping me out. |
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Posted: 3/28/2016 9:13:12 PM EDT
[#46]
Not to get off topic from the current conversation, but I was wondering if anyone had taken a measurement of the gas block and the length of the cylinder at the top that the piston rides in.
So A-B and X-Z in my picture (I used a screenshot of one of your pic's, OP, sorry if that's not kosher). Sorry for the horrid drawing addition, I have the dexterity of Hulk wearing oven mitts. 
If no one has, I may try to give Superlative a call about these dimension. Thanks gents. |
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Posted: 3/29/2016 7:25:34 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yea you're probably right. I just got the screws in from McMaster and the heads seem to be SLIGHTLY smaller than the ones that came with the kit. Even if I grind down just a little, which is all I'll need, I will still have way more material than those low profile screws. I might order some anyways just to test out. If you want a can send you some of each for your build for helping me out. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
The only thing that bothers me about those low profile heads is that they all say they can't take as high of a pre-load as the regular head. That and they use a smaller driver which has a tendency to strip a LOT easier. Thanks for looking though and I'll keep them in mind if my current plan doesn't work. I'm assuming that we're not using anywhere close to 150k tensile strength. It says it can't typically have as much preload, however when you modify a button screw or a socket head then you're also removing some strength and creating inconsistent tolerances. Since ASTM A574 is a about 20k tensile strength stronger than I would think that would make up more than enough of the strength. When we strip Allen screws it's usually mild and low strength steel with low Rockwell hardness or we are simply using a cheap Allen wrench rather than a proper tool. These things are not Home Depot or Lowe's grade, they're more like machine shop and aerospace grade. Material makes worldnof differences. Yea you're probably right. I just got the screws in from McMaster and the heads seem to be SLIGHTLY smaller than the ones that came with the kit. Even if I grind down just a little, which is all I'll need, I will still have way more material than those low profile screws. I might order some anyways just to test out. If you want a can send you some of each for your build for helping me out. Let us know how the new screws fit |
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Posted: 3/29/2016 7:28:33 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Let us know how the new screws fit Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
The only thing that bothers me about those low profile heads is that they all say they can't take as high of a pre-load as the regular head. That and they use a smaller driver which has a tendency to strip a LOT easier. Thanks for looking though and I'll keep them in mind if my current plan doesn't work. I'm assuming that we're not using anywhere close to 150k tensile strength. It says it can't typically have as much preload, however when you modify a button screw or a socket head then you're also removing some strength and creating inconsistent tolerances. Since ASTM A574 is a about 20k tensile strength stronger than I would think that would make up more than enough of the strength. When we strip Allen screws it's usually mild and low strength steel with low Rockwell hardness or we are simply using a cheap Allen wrench rather than a proper tool. These things are not Home Depot or Lowe's grade, they're more like machine shop and aerospace grade. Material makes worldnof differences. Yea you're probably right. I just got the screws in from McMaster and the heads seem to be SLIGHTLY smaller than the ones that came with the kit. Even if I grind down just a little, which is all I'll need, I will still have way more material than those low profile screws. I might order some anyways just to test out. If you want a can send you some of each for your build for helping me out. Let us know how the new screws fit Will do. Depending on how work looks for this weekend I will try to get it done. |
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Posted: 3/30/2016 8:26:18 PM EDT
[#49]
@Keith
Was looking for a nice Lw titanium gas block. I ran into the Next Intent Gas block. Look what i see. One 8/32 low profile socket head screw. 
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Posted: 3/30/2016 8:43:03 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
@Keith Was looking for a nice Lw titanium gas block. I ran into the Next Intent Gas block. Look what i see. One 8/32 low profile socket head screw. http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd382/mhinvest70/IMG_20160325_105602.jpg?t=1458842382 8/32 low pro screws have a 5/64 driver, so it's bigger. ETA: You edited before me. The one in my block is 6/32 which has a 1/16 driver. |
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