I couldn't find much word on the Syrac piston kits.
Perhaps my search skills are weak.
Has anyone used them?
I have been looking at the AA kits for a long time and they get mostly rave reviews.
Apparently one of the AA founders is the head of Syrac which might explain the similarities.
Thanks!

I have done 3 videos on the SYRAC piston system. One compares the weight with a DI system, one compares the SYRAC to the AA XLP system and this one shows a build and test firing with the SYRAC system. I have tried to remain completely objective and factual in my reviews. You decide what features you like. I'll just try to point out differences.

https://youtu.be/1DNPcuuW34w

mbell556

EPIC reply, thank you!

I'm trying to figure out of the 7.5" kit will fit under a URX 4 (I've also asked in the Knights section)

Do they plan on releasing a version with a set screw instead of the clamp?

The nickel boron system brownells showed in their new products video is a thing of beauty. Curious if it fits under a Spikes/Seekins SAR, but would imagine the BAR rail is a sure bet. Love the design hope Syrac can come thru with the production, as well as make it back to the industry section to keep us informed

I also want to know this.  Based on the detailed dimensions I have seen for both, I believe it should fit.  The question is, can you get the kit installed properly once the rail is on.  I cant imagine that you would be able to access all three of the set screws on the gas block through the keymod slots but I would love someone to show a test fit so I would know for sure.

As a second option.  I think it would be cool to use the Syrac system with the Noveske switch block quad rail set up in place of the switch block if it would fit.  It would allow very easy access to adjust and clean the gas block if everything fit in that space.  I don't think it would fit under the standard Noveske quad rail but if everything lines up just right I think the switch block swap would be really cool with a 10.5" 300 blackout setup.

I just called them about the NiBX kits a few days ago. They are about 2-3 months away.

I wonder if they are going to release a version that doesn't use a clamp on gas block?

While I have no knowledge of their future plans, IF they do I would not expect to see it any time soon.  Their current product works great, is flying off the shelves as fast as they can make them.  If you really want to know I would suggest calling them.  When they do have time to answer the phone (They are busy over there trying to get product made) they are very friendly, I have always found them easy to talk to.

It probably will fit. I used mine in a YHM keymod SLK handguard and it fit with room to spare on a 8" 300 blkout SBR build. I love it so far I do not know about the screw clamp. Adams Arms XLP uses  a screw mount to hold the block in place but its not as low profile as Syrac's.

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I am super interested in one, but might wait until someone puts 5-10k rounds through one without issue. Would be sweet to get and add one to a 7.62x39 lmt mrp converted barrel considering that is what I own. Do they work with other calibers?

So far I have seen 5.56/.223 and 300blk as the BCG is a 5.56 ar15 size carrier.

I wish you didnf have to use their BCG. Other than that it looks cool. Will it fit under DD ris II?

What BCG did you want to use? Piston kits are not built to a standard and the "tombstone" gaskeys proved to be an issue repeatedly in previous systems made by other companies. They were coming loose or breaking bolts. Ill take a 1 piece all day long.... Twice on Sunday

I am fascinated by the desire to have a set screw gas block of any type vs a clamp on. Why?

Actually, I have used AA add on gas keys before and never had any failures. I used certified grade 8 fasteners and LOTS of red loctite on a JP lightweight carrier. This was years before AA came out with one. The JP and the 'tombstone" have held up for 7k rounds so far.  BUT.... All DI carriers do NOT have stabilizing "skis" at the rear. I was starting to get some pretty bad carrier tilt wear on my lower buffer junction. I had to shift to using a special ant tilt buffer that is made just for this situation.
http://www.heavybuffers.com/antitilt223carbine.html  That solved the problem 100%.

But now? Honestly, I can see absolutely no reason to stray from AA's excellent line up of carriers. Their lightweight carrier is a really fine item. Unless you are insisting on a specialty titanium carrier, just stick with AA's (Voodoo's) line up.

If you want NiBx, forget it. Just have your carrier coated with HEAT cured Micro Slick. It is way better and cheaper than any nickle plating. Only a few places use the HEAT cured version of Micro Slick. Look here:
http://occustomcoating.com/micro-slick
I think they offer both heat and air cured versions. The air cured is C-110 and dries to a blue-grey which is fairly unattractive.
The heat cured version for some reason is not really advertised by NIC. It exists. It is awesome. The number is P-109 and it dries to a nice BLACK finish.
The P-109 is VERY hard and longer wearing...practically the life of the rifle.
http://www.nicindustries.com/images/techsheets/P-109%20MicroSlick%20Product%20Data%20Sheet.pdf

http://madcustomcoating.com/micro-slick/

If you do have a pet carrier you absolutely must have, then use a "tombstone". The fit on mine was nice and tight. I SLATHERED red loctite everywhere! I mean i coated every single contact surface with red loctite. You can get it apart....with a propane torch which will NOT harm anything. I never needed to take mine apart.

With EVERY piston system you use THROW AWAY the square cam pin and buy a round roller cam pin from POF!
https://pof-usa.com/product-category/upgrades-accessories/roller-cam-pin/
Trust me on this. I try and us their kit for DI builds too. You need to use their DI gas key.

Just built a gun with the mid-length Syrac piston. It's so much better than my Ruger SR556 that I sold the Ruger!

I put it under a YHM Spector Length SLR. Sorry for the blurrry pic...dern phone.


I second the suggestion above about using the roller cam pin. I've put 300 rds through this gun and there is no sign of wear in the upper receiver. I keep a square cam pin for a spare.

The Syrac Bolt Carrier is freakin' awesome. Top notch. No sign of carrier tilt either.

It's a smooth system and the instructions include how to set it up for minimum recoil. It works. I know a lot of folks hate anything but black rifles, but I like to be a little daring.

Ruger piston guns are bricks/cinder blocks.

Syrac ultra light weight piston kit is the most exciting thing to happen since Adams Arms piston kit. BOTH brought to you by none other than Jason Adams.
Have you ever seen the guy? He is a bit of freak. A genius freak for sure. I have to meet this guy in person some day.

Actually, I am a big fan of colored AR's. I like Desert Tan the best. But I also love BURNT BRONZE. I personally am cringing with your mud brown color choice. I wish you had just changed the shade a bit to BURNT BRONZE which looks amazing on any gun.

I think your photos looked fine. Phone photos are getting better every day now.

My Motorola Ultra takes amazing pix.

All that said, the build looks great!  I give praise for builds VERY sparingly, but other than the color, yours is awesome. Think about using a 15" rail next build. It is the trend now. I started using 15" rails in 2010 way before it became popular. I REALLY like the look and its practical..especially for tall guys like me. I like the idea of protection of my skin from a smoking hot barrel after a few mag dumps. I would like to see more builds using Lancer or AP Customs carbon fiber hand guards. IDK why people are shy of them. CF is SO much better with heat than metal. Just soap boxing here. Sorry to get off topic.

What PISTOL GRIP is that? Very interesting.

I have so many spare square cam pins that just take up space. I have not lost a round cam pin yet. They are really sturdy and hold up 100%. I think ALL piston kits should automatically come with one.

Are you on the ATKINS DIET??? I saw the breakfast plate. Atkins works great BTW. Get some sun, bro.

Thanks! The color is Duracoat Ultra-flat Desert Brown and I wasn't thrilled with it at first, but it has grown on me! I may make it into a multi-cam or something. I dig the burnt bronze and patriot brown from Cerakote, but I don't have the prep gear for Cerakote yet. Duracoat is pretty simple to apply. The pistol grip and stock are Daniel Defense and I painted them as well.

I went with the shorter handguard since I was not sure where the gas would be venting and I didn't want to worry about where to put my support hand. As it turns out the gas vents out the right side of the gas block for the most part. Also got the YHM SLR for cheap from JSE surplus.

This is my first build and it has worked flawlessly. There are quite a few steps to seating the gas block and time the piston correctly. I installed the gas block 3 times before I felt I had gotten it right.

You should be proud of the build. It really is nice. I still want to know about the pistol grip. What is the black part? An add on piece or is that the way the grip comes?

I hear you about alignment of the gas block. I am pretty adept installing piston systems now after many years with the AA system. I installed my first AA system on a non Milspec receiver...a Bushmaster Carbon 15. The job involved some time in the machine shop. I finally got quite good at getting the gas block JUST right so the piston rod had virtually zero friction. I developed all sorts of little techniques. Yes, I made mistakes at first. But when you finally realize what a piston system NEEDS to run smoothly, you develop skills to accomplish that. They hate friction. The less friction, the better they run. ALl my AA's eat ANYTHING..even rusty old nasty steel case ammo.

What I do isnt in any instructions or video. I am sure you developed your own way of doing it. Thats good!
Trust me. now that you "get it" you will never have another problem you cant solve installing another piston kit.

I ran into an issue once with Daniel Defense barrel ( I read later that this was common) having out of spec positioning of the shoulder and gas holes. It took me a while. Machining the barrel was pretty much out of the question. The solution in the end took 60 seconds to accomplish. I had to take off almost .01" of the length of the AA piston rod even thought the rod was perfect. It fixed the problem 100%. I agonized over altering a perfect AA rod. Looking back I should have never felt bad about it. Sometimes you need to do things like that. The gun works perfectly to this day almost 10k rounds later.

One thing I HATE about the AA system is the set screws. I HATE them with a passion. The single shallow dimple that some barrels have are useless.  If I have set screws, I align  the block. I make sure  the gun works. Then I take it to a machine shop and carefully MILL a fairly deep open shaft that captures each set screw. What a pain. Set screws do not belong on gas blocks, period. Why idiots ask for them (from Syrac) is beyond comprehension.

A good clamp on block with beefy grade 8 machine screws becomes one with the barrel. There is NO way any of my clamp on blocks will ever move. Especially since I bed them with a special hi temp green loctite made just for that purpose. Google 620 loctite. Its good for bedding DI gas tubes and DI gas keys. Just squirt brake clean through any gas hole to flush any excess loctite out before it hardens.  This is a little known trick that a few of us use. You can fins others that use 620 for bedding. You need a propane torch to get the block off. That doesnt harm a thing. Once a gas block is bedded I dont think I have ever had the need to remove one. But I have zero gas leaks. No carbon smudging out gas tube fittings etc.

I am actually against drilling into a barrel for pinning too. If it is good enough for the Military then I want something even better. The Syrac CLAMP on block is it. Beefy! That is going no where..ever.

Watch these series of videos. You will never use Duracoat again. It shows a guy doing a GREAT job with air dry Cerakote doing the exact same steps as Duracoat. NO sand blasting!  Using C series air dry Cerakote. These videos are really well done by a smart, practical guy.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dln40_-CWG0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4M88WPp_78
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C97Gx78rU1k
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8I5YqLjmKOc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XujJ-s2FI_E

You can use the color you did as a good  base for Desert Camo...three or four color. I think you can put cerakote over Duracoat. Duracoat is pretty wimpy. I would sooner use a rattle can. Watch the vids and tell me now you cant do a great Cerakote job!

That is the new Daniel Defense furniture.

I had the buttstock briefly but didn't like the cheek weld on it.  YMMV.

Thanks for the compliment. The pistol grip is the Daniel Defense Mil-spec + pistol grip. I masked the black rubber on the grip and the stock before I painted.



I looked at Cerakote C and decided to give Duracoat a try. The manufacturer states that Cerakote C is meant for accessories and parts that won't see to much abuse. Scopes and stuff. I was painting the barrel and comp too so I wanted something to withstand the heat.

Exactly...

The people clamoring for a set screw variant haven't taken two minutes to noodle why a set screw design won't work for this application.

C series holds up much better than Duracoat even though it it not oven cured. C Series air cure is good up to 1200 degrees. Your barrel will only reach 380 degree F after three ultra rapid mag dumps.
C Series air cure is the PREFERRED one for high temp
From NIC website:
"Cerakote C- Series Firearm Coatings for optics and high temperature applications. (Air Cure)"

Did you actually take the time to WATCH the video I linked? The way this guy SUCCESSFULLY did his AR in C-Cerrakote took EXACTLY the same steps as if he was using Duracoat. You really do not HAVE to media blast. Degreasing is the most important. ANY item that is phosphated needs zero prep except for degreasing.
You can use a green scotchbrite pad on your anodized parts if you want.

Is it best to remove all anodizing via medial blasting? Yes. Do you have to? Nope.

The more videos I watch, I am convinced that oven baking is looking easier and easier. We have been brain washed to think that only pros can work with Cerakote.
For years I was terrified of the thought of tackling a Cerakote job. Now, I do not feel that way at all.

Ahh, I found the DD furniture. Wow, that is incredible! The grip comes with a trigger guard already attached. That is so cool. Let me ask you. Did you buy the color in the following link? It looks like a BURNT BRONZE. That is the color I like. Did you paint over that incredible color with the dark earth brown??

https://danieldefense.com/furniture/buttstocks/daniel-defense-collapsible-buttstock-pistol-grip-vertical-foregrip-combo-mil-spec.html

Only $124 for the stock, the pistol grip and a vertical grip. That is unusual for DD to have such reasonable prices. I love the looks!
I cant see what possibly could be faulty about the check weld.