Very clean looking.  Nice scope mount too.  I didn't know you made those.......

I forgot to ask earlier, do you have weights for the different sights yet?

What's the difference between the regular handguard and ones with the "SS" designation?

One more question, what thread are the screws for attaching the rails?  Can I get a standard sling stud, screw it in directly and attach a bipod?  I'm able to do this on my Gen 2 SS.

My two cents...MI is a real class act.  No joke.  

They said in the OP that it uses the same attachments as the Gen 2 SS. So if you can do it on your Gen 2 SS, you would be able to do it on the Gen 3 SS.
The threads on the holes on the Gen 2 are 10-32.

This style of hand guard really has a lot of potential in the line. As much, if not more than the rest. I'm really surprised you have not done more R&D
Short of the Gen3 having a proprietary barrel nut and the back of the HG milled for the added locking lug, which is an improvement, I see no need to move from my Gen2's. Now a Gen3, and still no real added benefit.
YMMV
I like the Gen2 SS HG's, BUT IMO, they could be MUCH better thought out

I would have liked to see a little more ingenuity in mounting options for the SS series.
Right off the top of my head
1) - Matched exterior radius, low-profile (de-horned) rails for seamless appearance. 2-1/4", 4-1/4" and possibly full length for each length HG. No polymer
2) - Matched radius vertical-grip (2"= 3-notch) low-profile rails (de-horned) for seamless flow to the hand guard
3) - Matched radius, interior "T-nut" backing plates that mate up to the existing slots so the user has more adaptability options
4) - Matched radius QD Sling Mount that utilizes existing slot/screw configurations


I've come up with other solid ideas, but think I'll save them for now.
Considering I have two of the Gen2 SS series, I've come up with my own ideas and adapted to my needs very effectively.
Just thinking out loud. Although, I've a feeling others will agree
Merry Christmas
 

Does this one glue on too?
Really not a fan of adhesives as a mounting method. Just sayin.

I like the Gen2 SS. I won't be replacing them anytime soon.

I think if my above mentioned ideas were made available, the SS series would flourish

No idea. Who? I said, nor replied, nothing to the effect that the HG was not doing well. Please don't read further into my comment. The point I was trying make is that the Gen2SS is a great piece of equipment. It's good that it is doing well. I have two of them.
However, my comments above have derived from hands on and what I design. More knowledge? My 3D modeling? Alright, just a taste.



Willys Jeep - Mirror Mount Bracket














Just a friendly commentive? suggestion to better what's already good. Make it great!
Merry Christmas All







 

 


 

This is a hot rail! I'm running a Gen 2 rail from them now. I'll be grabbing this one for my next one.

Bit of an attitude for a rail with crappy lockup.  These are good for cheap builds, but a real rail that will hold up is gonna cost you.

MI Handguards are as good if not better then the so called top tier. If MI stamped BCM on their products half of you would pay another 150 bucks without hesitation. I can also attest that their customer service is top notch. They had no problem replacing a part that I broke during installation, free shipping, on my door step in 5 days! Top notch company!

I like the design in the hand guard. Not necessarily how it mounts.



As I stated previously, I have two of the Gen2 SS. The mounting method hasn't failed to do what it should and I've had the hand guards off several times.




At first thought, thread locker on the barrel nut holds it? In-fact, it does. And holds it well. When I removed the hand guards each time, I used a heat gun to break down the thread lock compound.




Even though I used heat, the hand guard needed to be gingerly pulled off the barrel nut to avoid damage. I used a 5/16" stainless rod pushed cross-ways through the milled vent holes,




while protecting the rail where meets the rod with leather so to give the rod a whack with a hammer in direction of the flash hider.
Once removed I cleaned out the build-up of thread lock. Careful not to gouge inside the hand guard, then clean up the barrel nut. When I reverse the installation, thread locker was generously applied with my finger




coating both the barrel nut and the inside of the hand guard where they mate up. Getting the hand guard to slide over the barrel nut easily the second or third time should be done by "dry-run" first.




Once everything is back where it needs to be, tap the front of the hand guard towards the upper. I use a removable handle. The one that attaches to the upper, split in distance between the upper and hand guard, and tighten it down solid to retain alignment down the rail.
Tighten the hand guard bolts uniformly, front first, then back, then front, then back, until the gap nears just under 1/8" so not to stress and stretch against the tabs where they key into the nut. All goes well with patients.




Let the rifle be for 24 hours. 48 is better to allow the thread lock liquid to fully cure.
I haven't had any failure in the mounting, however, there are better, more reliable options in other products. Of which I'm currently contemplating

 

 

I actually contemplated not using the adhesive when I installed mine. But I did. Hopefully I never need to take it off. I do love the handguard. Comfortable and sturdy. Both my BUIS and gas block are MI too. Very happy with all.

I'm a hopeless handguard junkie.  Since starting the BRD hobby 5 years ago, I've easily spend more on handguards than triggers or barrels.  The designs and technology have evolved significantly in that timeframe. I've used Magpul, YHM, Midwest Industries and BCM.  All of them make high quality handguards, MI being in the top tier.  

I can't imagine using threadlocker between any barrel nut and handguard.  I use it only on screws. In my experience, including MI SS gen 2 handguards, a knurled nut surface and an anodized tube surface, degreased, won't move once the tube is clamped in place.  

The main improvement of MI's SS gen 3 handguard is the nut's lack of holes or notches for the gas tube.  A long-overdue change, I'm glad MI saw the light.  This simplification makes it easy to tighten the nut to the desired torque, without needing to align something.  

A future improvement in handguard design, I expect, will be elimination of the Picatinny rail at 12 oclock.  The ideal handguard shape, IMO, is octagonal in cross section, 1.5" side-to-side, with the top flat being higher to accommodate the gas tube and cut with Mlok or Keymod openings.  Front sights, light brackets, etc. will directly attach to these openings.  - CW

Will there be an 10" fde?

Can I keep the A2 FSB with the gen 3 SS 12"?