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Posted: 2/17/2014 11:41:20 PM EDT
[#1]
I really like this lower and the ambidextrous controls, but I do not need the push button swivel cups. Any plans to make this lower without the swivel cups?
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Posted: 2/27/2014 9:25:23 PM EDT
[#2]
Having issues installing the take down pins, are the holes for the springs shorter than normal?
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Posted: 2/28/2014 8:31:10 AM EDT
[#3]
Do you have our EPS (enhanced pins set)?
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Posted: 2/28/2014 10:04:40 AM EDT
[#4]
Yes
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Posted: 2/28/2014 10:11:07 AM EDT
[#5]
Also, can people please show the tolerance between there uppers (list type of upper) and how it fits to the San Tan Lower?
The SanTan and my Stag Model 3 Upper has a very loose fit, and if I use the tension screw to make it tight, I cannot take the rifle down because there is so much pressure on the rear takedown pin. Will throw some photos up. I'm In the market for a new upper though and am hoping to hear if there are some that fit nice and tight. |
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Posted: 2/28/2014 10:32:03 AM EDT
[#6]
The take down pin hole is usually not a problem, the pivot pin's spring and detent hole depth can vary among manufacturers. Can you take a picture to show how much spring is sticking out of the housing when the spring is fully seated (without the detent)? On some receivers you'll see almost nothing, most of the time, you see a few coils.
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Posted: 2/28/2014 1:00:03 PM EDT
[#7]
you may have to stick a drill bit down the front pin hole and remove debris. the rear one i had to take off maybe a 1/8 inch
info |
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Posted: 2/28/2014 1:05:28 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Having issues installing the take down pins, are the holes for the springs shorter than normal? I just responded to your email. We will get you sorted out. The holes are the standard depth. On the rear takedown pin you will need to trim about 3/8" off of the coils to shorten it enough for it to be captured by the set screw. By trimming coils you will be able to use the set screw to adjust the tension on your rear takedown pin. If you would like to please feel free to give me a call and I can walk you thru it! |
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Posted: 2/28/2014 1:17:19 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Also, can people please show the tolerance between there uppers (list type of upper) and how it fits to the San Tan Lower? The SanTan and my Stag Model 3 Upper has a very loose fit, and if I use the tension screw to make it tight, I cannot take the rifle down because there is so much pressure on the rear takedown pin. Will throw some photos up. I'm In the market for a new upper though and am hoping to hear if there are some that fit nice and tight. There are lots of different pictures of uppers on our Facebook page so you can see the match between upper and lowers. The "Slack" you are feeling is due to different manufacturer tolerances. Each dimension of an AR-15 has a +/- tolerance. at STT we cut to the middle of that spec to maintain the widest part compatibility. If an upper is on the low end of the spec it will have the slack verses if it is on the upper end it will be tight. As far as the upper takedown tension set screw goes, lets get your take down pin tension set first then we will adjust that screw. By doing it in this order it removes one variable for us to work with. as far as being in the market for a new upper, we are currently working on our billet upper that will match the STT-15 perfectly! I don't have an exact ETA but it wont be a long time. Feel free to give me a call and I can walk you thru it! |
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Posted: 2/28/2014 3:55:14 PM EDT
[#10]
my colt and DD have play. so far just been to lazy to buy a oring for the front pin hole
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Posted: 2/28/2014 6:27:52 PM EDT
[#11]
I've got a lower coming in mid-week that's for a KAC 14.5 upper. I'll let ya'll know how they fit together.
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Posted: 2/28/2014 6:40:16 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
There are lots of different pictures of uppers on our Facebook page so you can see the match between upper and lowers. The "Slack" you are feeling is due to different manufacturer tolerances. Each dimension of an AR-15 has a +/- tolerance. at STT we cut to the middle of that spec to maintain the widest part compatibility. If an upper is on the low end of the spec it will have the slack verses if it is on the upper end it will be tight. As far as the upper takedown tension set screw goes, lets get your take down pin tension set first then we will adjust that screw. By doing it in this order it removes one variable for us to work with. as far as being in the market for a new upper, we are currently working on our billet upper that will match the STT-15 perfectly! I don't have an exact ETA but it wont be a long time. Feel free to give me a call and I can walk you thru it! Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Also, can people please show the tolerance between there uppers (list type of upper) and how it fits to the San Tan Lower? The SanTan and my Stag Model 3 Upper has a very loose fit, and if I use the tension screw to make it tight, I cannot take the rifle down because there is so much pressure on the rear takedown pin. Will throw some photos up. I'm In the market for a new upper though and am hoping to hear if there are some that fit nice and tight. There are lots of different pictures of uppers on our Facebook page so you can see the match between upper and lowers. The "Slack" you are feeling is due to different manufacturer tolerances. Each dimension of an AR-15 has a +/- tolerance. at STT we cut to the middle of that spec to maintain the widest part compatibility. If an upper is on the low end of the spec it will have the slack verses if it is on the upper end it will be tight. As far as the upper takedown tension set screw goes, lets get your take down pin tension set first then we will adjust that screw. By doing it in this order it removes one variable for us to work with. as far as being in the market for a new upper, we are currently working on our billet upper that will match the STT-15 perfectly! I don't have an exact ETA but it wont be a long time. Feel free to give me a call and I can walk you thru it! UPDATE: Managed to get the rear takedown pin to play nice after taking off a bit of the spring as advised and tweaking the set screw till it was just right. As far as the the tension set screw goes I headed that advice too and managed to get it so it sets at a reasonably tight (not perfect but hey good enough!) and it takes down fine now. At this point the front takedown is in so tight I can't seem to be able to remove it so I can trim the spring. Need another device to apply pressure to the detent better than my punch. 
Sorry for the camera photo (Will get the GF to take a better one with her High Speed camera to do this lower some justice) But wanted to show how Bad Ass this puppy looks! Besides the minor discrepancies I've had, this lower is of great look and function! For a blamed lower, I could not find anything that indicated a blemish. This is an incredible deal and I am very satisfied thus far and the response from Dennis could not have been more immediate. I can not say enough about the customer service of San Tan! If I could add one bit of advice to y'all it would be to maybe include the correct size detent springs in with the lower though, just a thought to make the setup a little more streamlined in the future. Will do a range report after this weekend. |
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Posted: 2/28/2014 8:14:11 PM EDT
[#13]
you shouldnt ever need to trim the front spring. is just annodized particles that you can use a screw to pull it out.
just manually insert and rotate. |
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Posted: 3/2/2014 2:48:32 PM EDT
[#14]
Anyone know how the Vltor MUR pairs up with the SanTan lower?
Wondering if billet on billet would be a tighter fit. |
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Posted: 3/2/2014 5:58:48 PM EDT
[#15]
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Posted: 3/6/2014 4:23:22 PM EDT
[#16]
My San Tan lower showed up today at my FFL. The guys at the shop were blown away by the quality. I ended up ordering a logo less lower with markings for 45 degree selector. Here are the pics in case you are wondering what one looks like without the logo.
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Posted: 3/6/2014 4:51:22 PM EDT
[#17]
Sweet. Nice pics.
 I have a lower sans logo with BAD-EPS, an SSA-E & a 45 selector sitting at my FFL that I'm gonna pick up in about 2 hours. I have a BCM Mod 1 grip and a CTR stock kit at home waiting for it. I went without the logo so I can use the space if I decide to SBR the lower one day. |
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Posted: 3/6/2014 5:02:10 PM EDT
[#18]
Oh and you get lots of stickers!
 That should be a nice setup. I went with the magpul k2 grip and a B5 Sopmod. Debating on the enhanced pins let me know how they work out for you.
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Posted: 3/7/2014 10:43:14 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Oh and you get lots of stickers! That should be a nice setup. I went with the magpul k2 grip and a B5 Sopmod. Debating on the enhanced pins let me know how they work out for you. May just have been me but the EPS pin set had more wobble than your standard pin set. I'm getting a replacement sent to me so will see I it was just a bad set. |
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Posted: 3/7/2014 11:42:34 AM EDT
[#20]
The EPS doesn't induce or reduce play on the upper or lower. When the wobble is present or absent, it is consistent regardless of pins used.
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Posted: 3/7/2014 11:48:27 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: May just have been me but the EPS pin set had more wobble than your standard pin set. I'm getting a replacement sent to me so will see I it was just a bad set. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Oh and you get lots of stickers! That should be a nice setup. I went with the magpul k2 grip and a B5 Sopmod. Debating on the enhanced pins let me know how they work out for you. May just have been me but the EPS pin set had more wobble than your standard pin set. I'm getting a replacement sent to me so will see I it was just a bad set. My EPS pins seem the same way. I recently put a set on a KAC lower and they feel a little loose also. I think the pin diameters might be on the small side of the spec, but the detent stops are quite positive especially on the front pin. These 2 details combine to make the front pin a bit stubborn to break loose at times. Yeah, I got 2 stickers. 1 will go on my equipment cabinet next to the BCM and BFG stickers... Wish I had a KAC sticker to go along with them.  No pics of the lower yet. I plan on dressing it up this afternoon/evening and will post pics then. Here's my initial impressions of handling it.
Minor Gripes [nothing is perfect  ] :
These aren't things that I necessarily believe are bad about the STT-15, just things that I would have done differently. I think for the next version of the STT-15, they should consider 1. Add the option for some custom engraving opposite of or instead of the rollmark. This is required if one wants to SBR the lower and there aren't many places that will do the engraving without the lower fully dis-assembled. It would be a nice touch and probably worth a $40-$50 upcharge since aftermarket engraving costs about that much. I'm sure they could find a cost-effective small CNC engraver that can do this -This would be quite a leap for someone to take [engraving a lower they've never seen/handled] so maybe it would be more appropriate to sell this as an after-purchase add-on. They pay for it with the lower and then can schedule a date to return it for engraving. This would let someone handle it and decide if they want to keep it & make sure it functions reliably before getting stuck with it.2. Get rid of the integral QD cups, route the rear takedown detent hole the usual direction and offer Troy/KAC End plate sling mount or design an ST one. This will probably make MFG'ing easier and also increase the functionality of EPS pins. |
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Posted: 3/7/2014 11:56:34 AM EDT
[#22]
Krusty783-
I agree with you on the integral swivel cups. I do not think they should be an integral part of the receiver. It would be fantastic if the cups were optional. |
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Posted: 3/7/2014 1:00:49 PM EDT
[#23]
Krusty, please email me your shipping address, I'd like to swap out your EPP. The detent holes on your EPP may be wider than spec, which makes it difficult to push in and pull out the pivot pin
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Posted: 3/7/2014 5:28:37 PM EDT
[#24]
Duff, Thanks for the offer. BUT, once I stopped being a Fudd and actually assembled the upper and lower together, the pins are quite easy to budge. So I'm gonna go ahead and claim a PEBKAC error on what I said above.
I got the lower assembled. Review/Documentation below. Executive Summary: Winning!!  Unboxing the lower Here's the contents of the box:   The detent and spring were in the bag with the Geissele instructions. One of the product booklets and 1 of the stickers were also in the baggie. More info on the L/H Mag release Here's a couple pics of the L/H mag release. I think I'd prefer if the finger pad was (?more?) level with the lever or raised slightly.   Parts:  Upgrade Complete:  The only issues I had were dealing with the BCM Grip [BCM supplies a flat head screw. I guess F/H screwdrivers might be more common in austere environments or something, but they're damn impossible to use to guide the screw into the hole in the top of the grip], the castle nut on the receiver extension was backwards [didn't notice until I was trying to figure out why my armorer's wrench didn't fit] and I forgot about the upper tensioning screw until after the pic above. I'm using this lower with a KAC 14.5" factory upper with boltcarrier.com installed URX4. I'd say the play between upper and lower was about 1.5 times what it is in my LPR, so the mismatch is maybe .015-.020. By mismatch I mean slot that I can see light through if I try. There was some slight play between the upper and lower, perhaps a little more than on my factory rifle, but the upper tensioning screw took care of that. I know that upper-lower play is nothing more than annoyance. If anyone wants something water tight they need to go with matched billet receivers or something like that. I did find some very light machining marks on the front left corner of the magwell flare. Though to be fare, the marks are faint and less than what I can see on my KAC lower. They look like some hand finishing to the corner and don't show up very well in pictures.  If you look at the front magwell corner in this pic you can kinda see it:  I should stipulate that I'm not complaining. I was working under a florescent light on a white blanket on an off white workbench... This thing is nearly perfect and I've seen much worse. I'm just trying to accurately describe the lower. I presume that after a carbine course or two these "marks" will be well camouflaged.  STT Lower vs KAC Lower. The scale is an illusion; they are the same size (of course) but I am a crappy photographer. The anodizing is nearly identical with the KAC being maybe 1/4-1/2 a shade darker/more matte. KAC has a BCM mod 3 grip, the STT has a BCM mod 1. The STT trigger guard almost matches up with the smaller Mod 1 gap filler. The trigger guard is maybe .010-.020 difference in the surfaces. This is not a complaint by any means and is probably as perfect match as one can hope for between an unrelated CNC milled aluminum piece and a mass produced injection molded part.  Post assembly I tried empty USGI, Lancer AWM, Troy BattleMags and a gen 1 & gen 3 Pmag. All dropped free without any hangups. I'll see if anything changes with ammo. The rifle is now bunking with my LPR waiting for a range trip, which will hopefully be next weekend:   Also, here's one of the decals on my storage/ammo cabinet. It's more of a decal as opposed to a sticker; there is no clear membrane, you peel off the protective layer and and press the sticky side onto something then slowly peel off the backing, leaving the black logo stuck on place.  ---- So, if you're still reading this... The STT-15 is one of the cheapest fully ambi lowers out there and they also have the lowest prices on the upgrades (EPS pins, triggers, Vltor A5 system etc) and the quality is top notch in my experience. I highly recommend them. |
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Posted: 3/7/2014 7:52:03 PM EDT
[#25]
My left side mag release does not seem to sit as far in as yours. Ill get a pic up in a bit.
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Posted: 3/19/2014 12:14:18 AM EDT
[#26]
I just got mine in, its beautiful!! However my magazine well has a lot of wobble. I've tried pmags, steel gi mags, and pro mags. Has anyone else had this issue?
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Posted: 3/19/2014 12:37:37 PM EDT
[#27]
Hello Bwong91,
The reason for this is to accommodate all of the different sizes of magazines from different manufacturers. When finalizing the dimensions in the magwell we had magazines from the small end such as the USGI and Promag then there are Magazines that are on the high end such as the Surefire 60 & 100 round mags. The side to side motion you are noticing doesn't effect function at all. It only makes it so no matter what magazine you are running it will drop free when the releases are pushed. If you want give me a call if you would like to talk, I'm here to help |
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Posted: 3/19/2014 1:27:34 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Hello Bwong91, The reason for this is to accommodate all of the different sizes of magazines from different manufacturers. When finalizing the dimensions in the magwell we had magazines from the small end such as the USGI and Promag then there are Magazines that are on the high end such as the Surefire 60 & 100 round mags. The side to side motion you are noticing doesn't effect function at all. It only makes it so no matter what magazine you are running it will drop free when the releases are pushed. If you want give me a call if you would like to talk, I'm here to help
The magwell and it's flare will swallow a mag and a finger. If a finger is in there, there is no mag wobble. Tried and tested with a gen2 pmag and my left index finger Don't try it.
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Posted: 3/19/2014 11:43:53 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Don't try it.
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Posted: 3/20/2014 12:17:57 PM EDT
[#30]
This may be old news to some, but I just tried the discount code and it still works. This came from AR15NEWS.com
Right now they have some lowers with VERY MINOR cosmetic blemishes that they are calling STT-GRENADES and are ready to move them at a heavily discounted price. This includes the new Battle Arms Development 45 degree selector compatible lowers as well. These blem lowers are 100% functionally the same as non-blem models but may have minor nicks or visible tool marks but nothing major. They are also switching to a reversed flag design where these have the forward facing flag. Some companies wouldn’t even think twice about selling these as normal lowers but they just simply aren’t up to San Tan Tactical quality standards when it comes to the finish and look of the lower. Normal retail for non-blemished STT-15 lowers is $290 and blem lowers are normally $230. However, San Tan Tactical gave us a special discount code for St. Patrick’s Day. Use the code “AR15newsLuckyCode” at checkout to snag one for a limited time only at just $199 a piece. www.santantactical.com Thanks to AR15NEWS.com!! Stay Safe, firemandan |
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Posted: 3/25/2014 11:44:25 AM EDT
[#31]
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Posted: 3/25/2014 2:39:02 PM EDT
[#32]
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Posted: 3/26/2014 12:34:24 AM EDT
[#33]
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Posted: 3/26/2014 12:55:49 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Color? Me wants to know!  Quote HistoryThat is Cerakote FDE with Burnt Bronze controls. Jodyviper- what an awesome job building your pistol! I love it!
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Posted: 4/3/2014 11:35:15 PM EDT
[#35]
Just got mine finished. This is the best ambidextrous lower I have ever used. I highly recommend it. Also, Cerakote is only $40 more.
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Posted: 4/3/2014 11:55:55 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Hey Duce That is Cerakote FDE with Burnt Bronze controls. Jodyviper- what an awesome job building your pistol! I love it! Quote HistoryQuoted:
That is Cerakote FDE with Burnt Bronze controls. Jodyviper- what an awesome job building your pistol! I love it! Will you be offering more Cerakote colors from factory, or Cerakoted controls? |
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Posted: 5/18/2014 4:41:16 PM EDT
[#37]
Can't say enough good things about my San Tan Tactical lower and Dennis.
He runs a top notch operation and am extremely impressed with the quality of his lowers. I'm local to him so I was lucky enough to stop by and pick up a "Grenade" - smokin' deal! Plus I got to chat with him at length about just about everything, great guy who understands how to run a business. I was looking for a lower to build a 22lr suppressed SBR and just happened to catch this new lower. I would say that you WON'T be disappointed in the blems - I'm pretty anal about my stuff and have no regrets at all. If it were a 5.56 I may have gone with a regular one, but the little bit of "blem" that I found (actually he had to point it out) this was well worth the savings. I was able to get my BAD lever to work, with major modification, would not recommend on a duty rifle as I had to weaken it quite a bit. Had a few other little hiccups, but all due to the .22lr build factor and mag adapter that has to be used. It fit together perfectly on my 5.56 Sig upper. So it works perfectly as intended. The .22lr builds always need tweaking, so don't want to take away from the quality of this unit. 
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Posted: 5/21/2014 9:26:11 AM EDT
[#38]
Excellent product. The QD sling attach points are an especially nice touch. For a high-end "billet" build, this receiver is an ideal choice. - CW
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Posted: 5/28/2014 11:37:52 AM EDT
[#39]
Old school type configuration.
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Posted: 5/28/2014 8:02:39 PM EDT
[#40]
At the advice of Dennis at San Tan I ordered a Phase 5 Tactical bolt hold open/release and got it installed with no real issues.
I did have to shim the roll pin opening to take the slack out of it, but easily done. |
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Posted: 6/11/2014 10:37:48 PM EDT
[#41]
I tried to e-mail STT with a question via the form on their contact page, but haven't received an answer yet, so I'll just ask my question here.
In the options for the STT-15 lower receiver for the "Magwell Logo Engraving", what difference does the 90 degree and 45 degree make? I understand that under the Selector Options it's for determining if you want the full 90 degree throw lever or a short-throw 45 degree lever, but can't see what difference it would make on the magwell logo engraving. I would like to order an STT-15 lower without the logo, and I know there is just one option for no logo so it really shouldn't matter, but was just wondering what the difference was. Thanks!
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Posted: 6/12/2014 11:12:39 AM EDT
[#42]
As far as I know, there's only one version of the SAFE / FIRE pictogram now, this option may be at the time when there were earlier, purely 90 degree markings (incompatible with our short throw selector), and newer 50/90 degree compatible lowers (with a 50-90 "range" marking, and notch in the left selector hole to allow the 50 degree's "lawyer pin" to pass through).
I'll check with Dennis
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Posted: 9/1/2014 5:02:02 AM EDT
[#43]
Was really impressed with the photos and options included on this lower, so much so that I purchased a logo'd lower then worried if there was enough room to have it engraved for a SBR build, anyone?
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Posted: 9/1/2014 6:16:46 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Was really impressed with the photos and options included on this lower, so much so that I purchased a logo'd lower then worried if there was enough room to have it engraved for a SBR build, anyone? Plenty of room. I have one on a form 1. No problems with engraving. Mike |
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Posted: 9/2/2014 1:14:40 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Plenty of room. I have one on a form 1. No problems with engraving. Mike Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Was really impressed with the photos and options included on this lower, so much so that I purchased a logo'd lower then worried if there was enough room to have it engraved for a SBR build, anyone? Plenty of room. I have one on a form 1. No problems with engraving. Mike Thankyou |
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Posted: 1/5/2015 9:29:34 PM EDT
[#46]
I'm about to order an stt. Is there anyway of getting the battle arms short throw selectors and take down pins coated along with the rest of the controls when I order all as a package?
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Posted: 1/7/2015 1:13:09 AM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm about to order an stt. Is there anyway of getting the battle arms short throw selectors and take down pins coated along with the rest of the controls when I order all as a package? We can Cerakote anything, but the pins tend to be a challenge, since the tolerances are tighter and the Cerakote adds some thickness. |
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Posted: 1/8/2015 1:06:18 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
We can Cerakote anything, but the pins tend to be a challenge, since the tolerances are tighter and the Cerakote adds some thickness. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I'm about to order an stt. Is there anyway of getting the battle arms short throw selectors and take down pins coated along with the rest of the controls when I order all as a package? We can Cerakote anything, but the pins tend to be a challenge, since the tolerances are tighter and the Cerakote adds some thickness. Ok so skip the pins. Check. So then will ST do the battle arms levers to match the rest of the receivers controls? |
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Posted: 1/9/2015 2:43:05 AM EDT
[#49]
Went ahead and pulled the trigger and ordered. Emailed with Dennis and he's going to make sure my battle arms levers are coated along with the rest of my sectors. Really great help. He's also lining me up with LEO Armory who does laser engraving so I can get my NFA stuff done before Dennis coats the lower FDE. Can't ask for better service.
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Posted: 1/9/2015 3:09:18 AM EDT
[#50]
Lose the logo.
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