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Page AR-15 » AR-15 / M-16 Retro Forum
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Posted: 6/14/2017 9:39:57 PM EDT
Im assembling a 733 inspired build, and the issue Im having is that the threaded portion of the tube is shorter than on a regular milspec tube (pics below) Its to the point that installation is a pain, and its not possible to get adequate interference on the buffer retaining detent.

Im posting this before I contact Nodak, in case this is normal for these tubes, perhaps because of the old style castle nut being different. My instinct however, is that this is a manufacturing defect.

FYI: I do not intent to slam Nodak. Shit happens. I understand that.





Link Posted: 6/14/2017 10:24:31 PM EDT
[#1]
If its not holding the detent yes id say defect.
Link Posted: 6/14/2017 10:58:34 PM EDT
[#2]
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Quoted:
If its not holding the detent yes id say defect.
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It holds, but I dont trust it. It is holding on by the very slimmest of margins, not near as well as all my other rifles.

I was thinking that perhaps the original lock ring was shorter, therefore allowing more work space. If I could just get one more turn on it, it would be acceptable. It would still be a pain to install, but it would work.
Link Posted: 6/15/2017 4:44:02 AM EDT
[#3]
Earlier lock ring more narrow and not castle style.
Link Posted: 6/15/2017 5:50:35 AM EDT
[#4]
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Quoted:
Earlier lock ring more narrow and not castle style.
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I was hoping this was not the case. So, for a proper installation, I need an old style lock ring?
Link Posted: 6/15/2017 6:47:18 AM EDT
[#5]
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Quoted:


I was hoping this was not the case. So, for a proper installation, I need an old style lock ring?
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I don't think so. I had a NDS tube with a castle nut on a build for a while (I may still come to think of it) and it engaged the detent normally.
Link Posted: 6/15/2017 9:26:37 AM EDT
[#6]
I don't think it's normal. Looking at a picture of the tube on Nodak's website, there appears to be more threading on the tube, as well as a further back starting point for the threads. You can use the line that circles the tube just before the elevated portion that contains the stop notches as a reference:



Link Posted: 6/15/2017 9:56:15 AM EDT
[#7]
Thank you. I dont know why I didnt think to check the stock photos. From that picture it appears clear that my tube has a manufacturing defect. I will contact NDS.
Link Posted: 6/15/2017 11:42:59 AM EDT
[#8]
Link Posted: 6/15/2017 12:49:17 PM EDT
[#9]
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Quoted:
Yes, these tubes have a shorter threaded portion than our older ones.

You are the first person to have a issue with them.



If it is not compatible with your lower please send it back for a refund.



And for informational purposes: the Colt factory CAR lock rings are .312" thick front to back.
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My lower is also a Nodak. To be clear, if I were to ask for a replacement, it would have the same length of thread. Is that correct?

Thank you for the info about the colt car rings. That may be my fix, as I do not necessarily wish to use a different tube.
Link Posted: 6/15/2017 1:18:10 PM EDT
[#10]
Link Posted: 6/15/2017 1:20:11 PM EDT
[#11]
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Quoted:
Yes, they are all machined to this profile.



To be honest, I never checked them with an M4 castle nut.

Just the Colt CAR lock rings.
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Thank you. It sounds like I will have to locate a car lock ring.
Link Posted: 6/15/2017 7:43:23 PM EDT
[#12]
Essential Arms has the lock nut you're looking for. Give them a call and order it up.

http://essentialarms.com/newpartslist.html
Link Posted: 6/15/2017 8:39:29 PM EDT
[#13]
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Quoted:
Essential Arms has the lock nut you're looking for. Give them a call and order it up.

http://essentialarms.com/newpartslist.html
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Thank you. I will call tomorrow morning.
Link Posted: 6/15/2017 9:18:15 PM EDT
[#14]
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Quoted:
Thank you. I will call tomorrow morning.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Essential Arms has the lock nut you're looking for. Give them a call and order it up.

http://essentialarms.com/newpartslist.html
Thank you. I will call tomorrow morning.
There are some listed in the EE right now. The seller may be able to tell you if they match up to the measurements that Mike gave above.

https://www.ar15.com/forums/t_7_119/1657753_Retro-Style-CAR15-Lock-Ring.html
Link Posted: 6/23/2017 4:14:53 PM EDT
[#15]
Ok, forgive me, but Im having a hell of a time searching for this info:

I got my CAR lock ring today, and it does install properly, but how can I torque this thing. I cant use a castle nut wrench, so how can I torque it?
Link Posted: 6/23/2017 4:31:52 PM EDT
[#16]
You need a CAR nut spanner.  Has a little hook on the end.  They're like $10.  Does your AR wrench have a hook on one end?
Link Posted: 6/23/2017 5:01:37 PM EDT
[#17]
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Quoted:
You need a CAR nut spanner.  Has a little hook on the end.  They're like $10.  Does your AR wrench have a hook on one end?
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I have the magpul armorers wrench.
Link Posted: 6/24/2017 12:18:48 AM EDT
[#18]
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Quoted:


I have the magpul armorers wrench.
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A spanner wrench will work, which might not be too hard to find at a hardware store if you don't already have one.
Link Posted: 6/24/2017 2:37:11 AM EDT
[#19]


See that hook in the lower left hand corner?  That's what you need.
Link Posted: 6/24/2017 9:04:22 PM EDT
[#20]
You can see in the pictures of the NDS tube with "short" threading that there is a large diameter "ring" of metal, right behind where the threads stop. That section of the tube with the larger "ring" is actually supposed to be threaded. From a manufacturing standpoint, the reason for that part of the tube being of a larger diameter is so it could be threaded.
Link Posted: 6/24/2017 10:30:57 PM EDT
[#21]
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Quoted:
http://www.uniquetek.com/store/696296/uploaded/armorers_wrench_labeled.jpg

See that hook in the lower left hand corner?  That's what you need.
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Thank you. Very helpful.
Link Posted: 6/25/2017 3:10:39 PM EDT
[#22]
Post some pics when the build is done!
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