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Posted: 12/9/2011 2:51:36 PM EDT
[#1]
I would shoot some Norrells gray black flat moly resin on it, then a crapload of bullets thru it. 604 round forge upper with a 601 lower could work with some dremel and filing to make a 601ish rifle. Of course some testors green for the furniture.
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Posted: 12/9/2011 2:55:30 PM EDT
[#2]
I would ask for a discount since he did not tell you about those gouges.
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Posted: 12/9/2011 3:20:58 PM EDT
[#3]
Nice.
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Posted: 12/9/2011 4:02:03 PM EDT
[#4]
The barrel is original Colt.
C = Colt MP = Magnetic Particle Tested CHROME BORE = Chrome bore and chamber |
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Posted: 12/9/2011 4:03:01 PM EDT
[#5]
Other than changing the mag release button, charging handle, and selector, I'd leave it alone. I think it looks nice.
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Posted: 12/9/2011 4:18:40 PM EDT
[#6]
Looks like he had trouble installing the bolt catch. That would piss me off a little, and I would talk to him about $, but it doesn't look to bad otherwise. You could always 'IDF' it then you'd never notice those gouges.
 Too bad he didn't tell you though. When installing the bolt catch, a little tape goes a long way.
ETA _ You should rub down the lower with gun oil or CLP - it'll match a LOT better. Probabaly hide the marks more as well. That lower looks dry to me. Give it a couple applications of oil, it;ll darken right up. |
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Posted: 12/9/2011 4:53:28 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
Looks like he had trouble installing the bolt catch. That would piss me off a little, and I would talk to him about $, but it doesn't look to bad otherwise. You could always 'IDF' it then you'd never notice those gouges. Too bad he didn't tell you though. When installing the bolt catch, a little tape goes a long way.
ETA _ You should rub down the lower with gun oil or CLP - it'll match a LOT better. Probabaly hide the marks more as well. That lower looks dry to me. Give it a couple applications of oil, it;ll darken right up. Duct tape sure pays for itself when doing the bolt catch. Nice rifle you got there, maybe shoot a couple hundred rounds thru it before you decide to do anything. Seriously, if you stare at those black parts too long & whole other rifle will start to manifest right beside it. That is the nature of our disease
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Posted: 12/9/2011 5:27:29 PM EDT
[#8]
Quoted:
Other than changing the mag release button, charging handle, and selector, I'd leave it alone. I think it looks nice. All of this and maybe the bolt catch too. And yes, tape is definitely your friend when it comes to the bolt catch install. Ask me how I know....
ETA: And as YoungFrankenstien856 mentioned, any parts you change out will immediately grow into a new rifle! |
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Posted: 12/9/2011 5:52:00 PM EDT
[#9]
It's not an A1 front sight post. Square profile sight with 4 adjustment notches would be an A2 front post at least
Should be a round profile with 5 adjustment notches....kinda throws the whole front sight base in question. Aside from that, looks like a decent piece you got there. |
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Posted: 12/9/2011 7:04:37 PM EDT
[#10]
I had a just finished (5 minutes prior) 604 fall and scrape up the NDS-XM16E1 lower.
I made some touch-up paint using craft paint. Gun metal gray and black mixed until it looked just right. The scratch is barely noticeable now. It looks much better than Colt's touch-up jobs!!! Looks like whoever built the lower installed the bolt catch with the upper attached?!?!?! |
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Posted: 12/9/2011 7:41:53 PM EDT
[#11]
Thanks for the comments thus far. Can anyone else comment on the front sight base being for an A2? That was my immediate thought and that worries me as I thought A2 FSB's were made to a different spec than they were for the A1.
I plan on getting in touch with the seller soon so I'd like to know if that is a problem or what. |
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Posted: 12/9/2011 8:30:03 PM EDT
[#12]
No way the FSB is A2 since A2 has a .750" diameter for the gas block journal.
+1 for getting an original Grey Colt Charge Handle, a correct selector, mag release button, and your call on the A2 front sight post. If it were mine, I would Cerakote to match the upper and lower, after filling in those dings. When installing bolt catches, not only do I use multiple layers of thick tape, but the O ring on one of my larger punches. I keep the O ring down near the tip of the punch, to guide it along the side of the lower so it can't impact the receiver where yours is dinged-up. You're very lucky that you got an original ejection port door. You also need a real lower receiver extension tube and maybe a trigger guard, or have yours coated grey. Your type D stock looks great from here. |
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Posted: 12/9/2011 9:11:30 PM EDT
[#13]
That looks nice and all the components we can identify are good quality pieces. Barrels with that marking were used up until 1982 and I have seen some with FSBs that have "strange" markings on them, I'm guessing they were from later production years like 1982. (am I wrong about this?) Some years used black slip rings and can be "correct" for your upper receiver. If you know someone that can bead blast and norrells the trigger guard, mag release button, buffer tube, and what looks to be a newer style charging handle gray it might be a cheap fix that would go a long way. What kind of bolt carrier group does it have? Markings?
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Posted: 12/9/2011 10:39:36 PM EDT
[#14]
Nice looking rifle. FSB is correct Colt and used on the later CMP Chrome Bore barrels. The soak in CLP advice is good on the lower to darken it a tad. Licks on the gouge marks and was probably reflective on the rifles sale price. Shame it's black. Should be an easy cheap repair regardless. Never scratched one in many builds but probably will scratch a NDS with my luck. Heck a few scratches give a retro a little character. I'd probably change out the visible pieces over time personally. This is the rifle you paid $700 for? Still a pretty good deal if it shoots accurately. Only one way to find out. Good luck.
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Posted: 12/10/2011 12:31:37 AM EDT
[#15]
Quoted:
Looks like whoever built the lower installed the bolt catch with the upper attached?!?!?! Either that or tried to touch the scratches up with it attached. |
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Posted: 12/10/2011 8:28:32 AM EDT
[#16]
They were mentioning the "front sight post" itself. It is square and correct would be round. Not a major deal. Nice rifle!
square 
round 
Quoted:
Thanks for the comments thus far. Can anyone else comment on the front sight base being for an A2? That was my immediate thought and that worries me as I thought A2 FSB's were made to a different spec than they were for the A1. I plan on getting in touch with the seller soon so I'd like to know if that is a problem or what. |
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Posted: 12/10/2011 11:38:18 AM EDT
[#17]
Ok, I feel much better knowing that the FSB is ok. Thanks very much.
I sent a message to the seller about the damage and asked for him to make it right. Hopefully he'll be a stand up guy about it and not shaft me... |
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Posted: 12/10/2011 1:28:43 PM EDT
[#18]
I agree, should refund some cash for that bubba job on the BC! A little plastic tape on the ends of a small pair of pliers cures that problem! I have a set of tools taped up for just such jobs...
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Posted: 12/10/2011 1:48:48 PM EDT
[#19]
Quoted:
I agree, should refund some cash for that bubba job on the BC! A little plastic tape on the ends of a small pair of pliers cures that problem! I have a set of tools taped up for just such jobs... I tap it in, but put tape on the receiver itself to protect it. Haven't had luck with the pliers trick. |
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Posted: 12/10/2011 1:55:59 PM EDT
[#20]
Quoted:
Quoted:
I agree, should refund some cash for that bubba job on the BC! A little plastic tape on the ends of a small pair of pliers cures that problem! I have a set of tools taped up for just such jobs... I tap it in, but put tape on the receiver itself to protect it. Haven't had luck with the pliers trick. vise grips work better than pliers imho. you can adjust how much the squeeze is so just adjust it a little at a time. i will squeeze one end of the roll pin to get it started a little easier. the opposite end will provide enough resistance to stay put once it's tapped in. |
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Posted: 12/13/2011 7:45:55 PM EDT
[#21]
Well I took a little brake cleaner to the nicked spots on the lower and the darkness around them disappeared. I'm pretty sure the guy tried to hide them with magic marker... The seller hasn't responded to me about a refund for the undescribed damage, I guess I'll be leaving him negative feedback.
The youngs bolt arrived today, looks real nice. Hopefully the bolt carrier will show up soon so I can tear into this thing. Who sells retro mag release buttons? That black thing is annoying the crap out of me. Also, another new guy type question. I see that early pictures show the sling installed with the metal clip attached to the front swivel but, I see pictures of retro builds and other original photos showing the clip on the rear swivel. Is there a way that is more appropriate or correct? |
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Posted: 12/13/2011 8:19:01 PM EDT
[#22]
Sling hook on rear swivel would be more appropriate in my opinion but it's one of those items that can go either way. Wrap the swivel you put the hook on with electrical tape to keep it from rattling. New issue silent sling has the same buckle on each end so there you go. Originally some shooters would loop the sling around there arm and really pull the stock into their shoulder for improved long range shooting. Never really had a need myself and I rarely take a shot over 400 yds anymore. It works as a band-aid for some though and was how the military taught it.
Easiest way on mag button is to paint what you have although they do show up on EE quite frequently. Figure $10-20 for a correct assembly. My retro many circle buttons have the greenish grey finish on them. It's grey bare aluminum under the black finish that if worn off looks pretty retro. Think member John Thomas can anodize and there is Victor at US Anodizing also to name two. I got one from Apexgunparts that was retro correct and one that wasn't (kinda a crapshoot). Bet you're chompin the bit waiting to shoot it. Shooting retro's with irons is hard to beat on the pure shooting fun scale. |
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Posted: 12/14/2011 7:26:45 AM EDT
[#23]
Quoted:
They were mentioning the "front sight post" itself. It is square and correct would be round. Not a major deal. Nice rifle! square http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/cruciantime/untitled.jpg round http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af342/cruciantime/untitled1.jpg Quoted:
Thanks for the comments thus far. Can anyone else comment on the front sight base being for an A2? That was my immediate thought and that worries me as I thought A2 FSB's were made to a different spec than they were for the A1. I plan on getting in touch with the seller soon so I'd like to know if that is a problem or what. If this is a "shooter" I prefer the square A2..you get a much better sight picture especially in bright sunlight. |
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Posted: 12/14/2011 7:32:39 AM EDT
[#24]
Looks like a hell of a lot of the Air Force rifles I have seen. A complete mish mash of olders style parts.
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Posted: 12/14/2011 10:29:05 AM EDT
[#25]
Quoted:
Looks like a hell of a lot of the Air Force rifles I have seen. A complete mish mash of olders style parts. Nice lookin' rifle. A bit of a mish, not too bad of a mash, 
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Posted: 12/16/2011 8:27:57 PM EDT
[#26]
I started tearing into the rifle today. The lower and port door are now soaked in CLP to darken them up. Also, now that I have it in pieces I have a couple more questions.
First, the pistol grip was held on with an allen head bolt/screw, is that correct or should it be a straight slot screw? Second, I can't get the screw in the buttplate to loosen from the buffer tube. The screw spins the buffer and unscrews it out of the lower but, the screw in the but is holding fast. The slot on it is buggered up and I'd like to replace it, any tips on what to do? Lastly, when the rifle was assembled I noticed that there was some play between the buttstock and the lower, is that normal? Thanks for the continued assistance and advice! |
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Posted: 12/17/2011 10:02:37 AM EDT
[#27]
Original screws are slotted. Some modern lower parts kits have allen head screws. As far as the buttstock screw, I'd spray it with PB Blaster, let it sit overnight, then try again.
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