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1/14/2017 8:11:35 PM
Posted: 8/10/2011 2:24:31 PM EST
[Last Edit: 8/10/2011 3:02:32 PM EST by RLR350]
imarangemaster has a thread going about which color green is closer to original green furniture. Hal143 turned everyone on to Testors Dark Green FS34079. I had an orginal unused green grip, some black handguards and a spare black stock. I decided to paint the hanguards and stock to match the grip using rust colored primer and the Testors. I'll never spend the money on originals and don't even have a 601, so I figured I'd try them on an early 604.

Here is a late 604 and an early 604 (some parts are real early, inlcuding the Edgewater, original triangle CH and BCG) with painted furniture. The selector, engraved NDS lower and NDS mag are the only repro stuff on the early 604 and the late 604 is all original, mostly NOS parts, except the NDS engraved lower. I love to shoot the late one, but haven't taken the early one out yet.

Thanks Hal143. I think they will do when I feel like changing the mottled stock, grip and no drain hole gaurds out.




The furniture by itself (Grip is original):



Link Posted: 8/10/2011 2:58:56 PM EST
Looks good, I like that shade of green.you did a good job.
Link Posted: 8/10/2011 3:16:17 PM EST
[Last Edit: 8/10/2011 3:16:55 PM EST by m1sniper]
Looookinggg good RL.Came out real nice!!!!!!!
Hey RL,,was that one of am180s PGs?????
Link Posted: 8/10/2011 3:23:43 PM EST
[Last Edit: 8/10/2011 3:24:22 PM EST by RLR350]
Thanks M1 and die tryin.

M1: That name sounds familiar. It probably cam from him off GB. I only remember the guy I got it from sold a few in a row; around $35 or $50, it's been a while. You know where a lot of the internals on that rifle came from.
Link Posted: 8/10/2011 3:39:24 PM EST
Sweet, could be a twin to my 601. GREAT JOB! Maybe we need a 601 picture thread! I got my Heatnbeat dimpled selector and takedown pin now, so I think I need to take fresh pics!
Link Posted: 8/10/2011 4:04:00 PM EST
Originally Posted By imarangemaster:
Maybe we need a 601 picture thread!


Try here

Link Posted: 8/10/2011 4:06:30 PM EST
Is this a paint sold in a little tiny can, for model cars?

ive used it I think. It does not like solvent. More so than most every other paint ive seen.
it also matches a faded 601 grip.

Link Posted: 8/10/2011 4:38:23 PM EST
Originally Posted By jhud:
Is this a paint sold in a little tiny can, for model cars?

ive used it I think. It does not like solvent. More so than most every other paint ive seen.
it also matches a faded 601 grip.



Thats the stuff. After it cures for a few months its not so sensitive.
Link Posted: 8/10/2011 5:30:38 PM EST
Thanks fellas, I'm glad it's working out. They look great. Close enough for horshoes and hand grenades, eh ?
I guess Kurt's 601 paint has kind dried up. Haven't seen it in a couple years. Hopefullly the Testors is a good cheap substitute.

Aluma-Hyde II, Clear Matte would make a good top coat if there's any solvent issues. I've used the Alumahude clear before and it's tough as nails.
Link Posted: 8/11/2011 3:10:10 AM EST
Originally Posted By MarkRSims:
Originally Posted By imarangemaster:
Maybe we need a 601 picture thread!


Try here



I thought I remembered one. Can we get it un-archived and a sticky? Maybe a 601/602 only picture thread? My beo gam should be here soon, and I have further upgraded my 601 with some Heatnbeat parts and am ready to take better pictures.
Link Posted: 8/11/2011 3:34:09 AM EST
Is there any special rust primer that you all are using? Are you all lightly sanding proir to base coat?
Link Posted: 8/11/2011 4:00:46 AM EST
Originally Posted By LonghunterCO:
Is there any special rust primer that you all are using? Are you all lightly sanding proir to base coat?


Heat N Beat recommended Martin Senour primer to me from NAPA auto parts. Worked great. Comes in Reddish Brown and gray. Rustoleum is tops too.

I sanded a set of matte guards pretty good with 150 grit to really rough it up, then shot 2 light coats of primer. Let it dry as long as possible, the cure is key.

Then I hit the primer with 0000 steel wool lightly, just enough to tack up for paint.

Then 2 coats of Testors. Stick them away and forget about them. Hard to do, but can make a world of difference.

Steel wool lightly, just enough to tack up between coats. Each coat I let dry 7-10 days.
I'm in Florida, high humidity. YMMV.
Link Posted: 8/11/2011 4:32:51 AM EST
I posted this info several years ago, and I think some had followed up and used it.
It would be interesting to know how well this paint combination has held up?
Its from my local Home Depot and was cheap ...$8 a quart if memory serves.
Mine still looks good....the butt stock is a 601 the hand guards are painted with the base and formula
pictured below.


Link Posted: 8/11/2011 7:07:43 AM EST
Originally Posted By Hal143:
. Each coat I let dry 7-10 days.
I'm in Florida, high humidity. YMMV.


So in Colorado that is 1/2 a day drying time.
Link Posted: 8/11/2011 7:23:19 AM EST
Originally Posted By LonghunterCO:
Originally Posted By Hal143:
. Each coat I let dry 7-10 days.
I'm in Florida, high humidity. YMMV.


So in Colorado that is 1/2 a day drying time.


Roger that. I've lived in Morrison and Nederland. My brother has lived there 40 years. The temps are heavenly compared to FL.
Link Posted: 8/11/2011 8:32:17 AM EST
Originally Posted By Hal143:
Originally Posted By LonghunterCO:
Originally Posted By Hal143:
. Each coat I let dry 7-10 days.
I'm in Florida, high humidity. YMMV.


So in Colorado that is 1/2 a day drying time.


Roger that. I've lived in Morrison and Nederland. My brother has lived there 40 years. The temps are heavenly compared to FL.


You lived in the land of the Frozen Dead Guy??
Only other person I've met who lived in Nederland is Morg308. He was there before landing in Sedona, AZ, and after leaving Jackson, WY, where he ended up after leaving Oregon. Seems he never plans it...he just ends up living in beautiful places!

Link Posted: 8/11/2011 8:57:26 AM EST
Want to help that paint dry? You know how lately you've been hearing on the news not to leave kids or pets in a closed up car because of the high temps the interior car reach? Well, it may not be good for kids or pets but, it works pretty good for force drying paint......and it's free!!!

Doc
Link Posted: 8/11/2011 12:02:15 PM EST
Originally Posted By OlGunner:
Originally Posted By Hal143:
Originally Posted By LonghunterCO:
Originally Posted By Hal143:
. Each coat I let dry 7-10 days.
I'm in Florida, high humidity. YMMV.


So in Colorado that is 1/2 a day drying time.


Roger that. I've lived in Morrison and Nederland. My brother has lived there 40 years. The temps are heavenly compared to FL.


You lived in the land of the Frozen Dead Guy??
Only other person I've met who lived in Nederland is Morg308. He was there before landing in Sedona, AZ, and after leaving Jackson, WY, where he ended up after leaving Oregon. Seems he never plans it...he just ends up living in beautiful places!



Seems I've talked to Morg about that before, maybe. Yep, I've been living in and out of Nederland since 1976. My brother and I have had a cabin there ever since. I'll be out there this fall.
Sounds like Morg is an old hippy...

Link Posted: 8/11/2011 12:30:27 PM EST
Local Nappa only had the Martin Senour in Grey and the local Hobby Lobby had their Testors Dark Green filled with Testors Medium Green. It was an unproductive day.
Link Posted: 8/11/2011 1:09:26 PM EST
I wanted to share a tip a artist gave me. If you use clear coat sealers, if at all possible go with the highest gloss available, then steel wool or wet sand it dull. Matte and flat clear sealers actually have white pigment in them and that isn't good for keeping the color from changing slightly.
Link Posted: 8/11/2011 1:23:08 PM EST
[Last Edit: 8/11/2011 1:26:17 PM EST by RLR350]
LonghunterCO: I ordered the Testors from UB Hobbies. While I was waiting I bought the Rustoleum primer at Home Depot and sprayed the stock and hand guards. It dried for about a week before I put the first coat of green on.

Just a note. The part number is FS34079. It is sometimes listed as FS34709, like on the UB site above. Testors also uses part number 1910 for it.

Link Posted: 8/11/2011 3:39:32 PM EST
Originally Posted By RLR350:
LonghunterCO: I ordered the Testors from UB Hobbies. While I was waiting I bought the Rustoleum primer at Home Depot and sprayed the stock and hand guards. It dried for about a week before I put the first coat of green on.

Just a note. The part number is FS34079. It is sometimes listed as FS34709, like on the UB site above. Testors also uses part number 1910 for it.

http://www.hobby-time.com/images/atrex/704-1910.jpg


Thanks I have to travel up north for work tomorrow so I will give it one more shot, at a different store before going to the net.
Link Posted: 8/11/2011 7:05:03 PM EST
[Last Edit: 8/11/2011 7:05:58 PM EST by Cdenmark]


RLR, seems to be a lot of this going around. Think I'm gonna clear mine before installing. Paint hasn't fully cured but wondering about durability.
Link Posted: 8/20/2011 4:34:40 AM EST
Originally Posted By LonghunterCO:
Originally Posted By RLR350:
LonghunterCO: I ordered the Testors from UB Hobbies. While I was waiting I bought the Rustoleum primer at Home Depot and sprayed the stock and hand guards. It dried for about a week before I put the first coat of green on.

Just a note. The part number is FS34079. It is sometimes listed as FS34709, like on the UB site above. Testors also uses part number 1910 for it.

http://www.hobby-time.com/images/atrex/704-1910.jpg


Thanks I have to travel up north for work tomorrow so I will give it one more shot, at a different store before going to the net.


Well finally found some green. I will start the primer base this weekend. Today is supposedly going to be hot.
Link Posted: 8/20/2011 6:03:58 AM EST
Be sure and let everything dry for at least a few days. If you rush it the testors will do funny things like orange peel or lift the primer or clear coat. Upon further inspection of my faux ones theres some spots like that.
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