Took delivery of my Palmetto complete PA10 lower recently. Bought it shipped from Palmetto for $209. This version has the Magpul MOE stock and grip, and Palmetto's EPT (enhanced polished trigger). For the upper I had also purchased a Palmetto complete upper that came with a mid-length gas system, 18" stainless barrel, and M-Lok rail for $449 shipped.

(removed incorrect ID of rail as having been made by Midwest Industries.)

Both assemblies needed lubrication, as has been reported by bfoosh06. I also scrubbed out the barrel which was dirty. The upper and lower went together without issue. The bolt would run home and lock without difficulty. The EPT trigger has a bit of take up, but little of the grittiness that typifies a basic  mil-spec trigger.

For magazines I had acquired two D&H 10-round metal magazines from Brownells, and two IMI polymer magazines from Aim Surplus. All magazines locked in just fine, and dropped free. They also APPEARED to activate the bolt catch (foreshadowing...).  

For a sight I used a Tasco Propoint red dot mounted on a riser. It will do until I make a decision on what optic to mount more permanently.

Digging into my stockpile of mil-surp 7.62x51 ammo I selected a couple boxes of English Radway Green ammo, loaded with 147gr FMJ bullets. Time to head to the range.

Went to the 25 yard range as I'm primarily function testing the rifle. First shot was on the paper, 3" high, 4 " right. Empty casing ejected cleanly pretty much at the 3 o'clock position, which surprised me as I was expecting the empty to be more at 1 o'clock as these rifles are usually reported to be over-gassed.

The bolt locked back on the empty D&H 10-rounder, UNTIL I pulled the magazine out and the bolt ran home on the empty chamber. Huh. Tried a shot using IWI 20-rounder, same thing occurred. I then discovered that I could not get the bolt catch to hold the bolt back reliably, even when engaging the catch manually with no magazine in the gun.

A few rounds later and I had the Tasco adjusted so that I was dead on at 25 yards. Fired another 10 or 11 rounds that produced a nice clover leaf of a group, so I'm optimistic about the potential accuracy of the rifle at 100 plus yards. With the exception of the bolt catch there were no failures of any kind.

Back home I inspected the bolt catch. It moved freely but did not move up high enough to solidly block the bolt from moving forward. It would occasionally just barely hold it, slightly engaging a single lug of the bolt, but removing the empty mag would cause the bolt to slam forward.

Removed the upper and fully depressed the bolt catch with my finger (as if I was locking bolt back manually) and measured the height of the bolt catch above it's recess in the lower with my calipers. Three measurements came in at .355 inches. I then got out my roll pin punches and removed the pin holding the bolt catch. I inspected all parts and the bolt catch recess for burrs and/or grit  – neither was visible. I then verified that the spring and detent that power the bolt catch moved freely and could be fully depressed below the surface of the lower – they could.

I lubed everything up and reinstalled the bolt catch. Measured the maximum height of the bolt catch, again came in at .355". Re-mated the upper and lower, bolt catch behavior unchanged as you'd expect.

Called Palmetto and told them of my problem. They are sending me a complete new bolt catch assembly.

NOW that I know I've got spare parts incoming I felt at liberty to modify my current bolt catch to try and get it working. I separated the upper from the lower and got out my full tool kit. The Wile E. Coyote School of Gunsmithing (WECSOG) was now in full session!

The first rule at WECSOG is to always file and hammer on the cheapest part, so my focus was strictly on the bolt catch. Figured if I removed some metal off the back of the arm that bears against the plunger/spring in the lower receiver (maybe a couple hundredths of an inch?) that the bolt catch should rotate a bit more, and the edge that catches the bolt move up a bit higher. I also wanted to bevel the top edge behind the grooved "push button" section of the catch, as it touches the upper and threatens to mark the finish.

I first tried to file the bolt catch but it is too hard to make any real progress. Second rule of WECSOG: use power tools at every opportunity!

So out came my benchtop belt sander. Used it to take metal off the back of the arm that presses against the plunger/spring in the lower receiver,  removed approximately 2 to 3 hundredths, and to make the bevel.

Pic showing bevel on back of bolt release.



Reinstalled the modified part and it worked! This should be attributed to more luck than skill on my part. An empty magazine now actuates the bolt catch and holds the bolt to the rear, even after removing the empty magazine. I can also engage the bolt catch manually. The bolt catch now engages TWO lugs of the bolt head. Measured the maximum height of the bolt catch, which now comes in at .385", or just shy of 10mm.

Pic of bolt head with two lugs engaged with a D&H magazine inserted. Sorry for crummy image, really hard to get a clear shot.



Again removed the bolt catch and used Brownells Oxpho-blue to darken the areas on the bolt catch where I had sanded. Reinstalled, retested, and done!

After returning to the range and testing with live ammunition I intend to do some of the PA10 "fluffing and buffing" as recommended in forum posts made by bfoosh06.

At this point I'm extremely pleased with the rifle, it's a steal at $658.  I consider the problem with the bolt catch to be very minor and not unexpected when you're buying an upper and a lower rather than a factory completed rifle.

Pic of rifle with bolt locked back accompanied by a D&H mag and an IMI mag.






Update, September 28th: I installed an Odin Works, clamp-on, adjustable gas block and a Griffin Armament Minimalist muzzle brake. Unsuppressed, the bolt on the rifle locks back with the gas block opened 10 clicks, or right in the middle of the gas block's adjustment range. With my Griffin Armament Optimus suppressor mounted I can close the gas block 3 clicks  and still have reliable function; at four clicks the bolt no longer locks back on an empty magazine. All adjustments were done using 147 grain Radway Green surplus ammo.

My new feral pig hunting rifle is now complete!

All that and no pic!

I know. Where does one turn in the post-Photobucket world?

Forgot the Cliff's notes.

Severe lack of pictures.  

This is exactly how to make a failure thread. 

Tinypic has sure been a piece of shit lately.  I have been forced to use the arfcom photo server.  

Buy a membership and upload away.

Now with pics. Hopefully in time to save thread!

I hope that upper wasn't advertised as having a Midwest Industries handguard, because that's not what you got. Did you just mean M-Lok?

majorcollins,

It wasn't advertised as being a Midwest Industry rail, only that it was M-lok. I jumped to that conclusion when I saw this logo, I thought it was MI's but I now see it's the M-Lok logo. Doh. Thanks for catching that.

Originally the PA10's came with MI rails, it may have just been stuck in your head.

Mines been in the safe awhile, need to get an optic and trigger time

PA10 passed the range test today. Fired several magazines of Radway Green English mil-surp and some 1975 vintage Indian mil-surp.

Rifle worked perfectly. Bolt locked back after last round using both the D&H 10-round magazines from Brownell's and the IMI 20-round mags from Aim Surplus.

Even though my empties are ejecting at 2-3 o'clock, I do want to get an adjustable gas block as I intend to suppress the rifle.  For optics I'm thinking a variable scope with 1x at the low end and an illuminated reticle.

tag

Per PSA, installing an adjustable gas block voids your warranty. For this reason I went the adjustable gas key for the BCG, that way only the warranty on the BCG is voided. Sucks that PSA overgasses their uppers, but at what they are selling them for, I can live with it.

I probably voided the warranty the moment I started grinding on the bolt catch!

Regardless,  you bring up a good point, but I can't resist "wrenching " on my PSA rifles.

Got an adjustable gas block on mine and runs great with my SpecWar762 and handloads.  Going to test with 165 SST's and 168 Amax this weekend.

Just added an Odin Works clamp-on adjustable gas block. The PA10's handguards came off easily with the removal of the two allen-head screws on the underside (see picture of handguards on earlier post); no Loctite in evidence on these screws.

The two screws securing the original PSA gas block WERE Loctited on. Heated them up with a soldering iron for about a minute and they broke free. Removed the gas tube from the PSA gas block and installed it onto the Odin Works gas block with the roll pin Odin included with their gas block. Slid the Odin Works gas block on which was a tight fit even with the clamp-on screws backed way off. Minor scuff on my SS barrel's finish a bit when the block was about an inch out of position which will be hidden by the handguard. Used a HB Industries gas port alignment pin to make certain of gas block to gas port alignment. Felt good so I used Loctite when I tightened down the gas block's clamp-on screws. Used a cleaning rod to break and remove the HB Industries alignment pin.

Left the handguard off and headed to the range to function test. The Odin Works gas block has 20 settings. Turned the adjustment all the way clockwise to completely close the port, and then opened it up 6 clicks. Fired an Indian surplus round, the bolt moved but did not lock back on empty magazine. Opened to 8 clicks, same result. At 10 clicks the bolt locked open on the empty magazine - repeated two more times and declared victory.

Reinstalled the handguard, adding Loctite to the screws.

Next test will be to determine the best gas block setting when shooting the PA10 with my Griffin Armament Alpha suppressor.

Parts used:

Odin Works adjustable gas block

Gas block alignment pins

Your advice has been spot on thus far, figured your recommendation of an adjustable gas block was a good one as well.

my bolt catch also barely engages the corner of one bolt lug WITHOUT an empty magazine. any movement of the rifle there after sends the bolt home. WITH an empty magazine it locks up tight engaging 2 lugs. this is more an annoyance than anything else, and is the only issue i have had with it. for the price i will take it, until someone shows us how to fix it easier than removing the bolt catch.

hell, per psa anything voids the warranty. my main concern was rough chambers. mine isn't so it is time to dude this bitch up. just don't tell psa i shot steel cased ammo through it until i start hacking on it. i figure if a gun will run on tula it will run on anything, it's my litmus test (if you will).

C'mon, it's a bolt catch. Pull that puppy out of your lower and commence to filing away excess metal!

Does your bolt catch contact the upper when it's engaged? If so, you'll want to remove metal from it's backside to prevent stress on the part AND to spare the finish on your upper.

i looked at your pics above and best i could i could not see anywhere where it would be hanging up.

mine locks solid on empty mags. just not on a "manual lock back".

i have not. i have not even zeroed in my sights or optic, i was just blasting to make sure it functions reliably. i figure if it will run a few hundred cheap rounds with zero malfunction i will then try some good stuff for accuracy.

Every 308 I've ever owned has had a strong preference for FGMM 168.

I thought that was a Midwest Industries logo at first too