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Posted: 5/3/2016 1:05:27 AM EDT
[#1]
Still to buy? A BCG. Thinking I will purchase a FailZero BCG. Nitriding is very, very, ridiculously slippery and the price is right; reviews generally are positive. I also will purchase a flip-up front sight, but I'll be using my (ahem) Primary Arms 8 year old micro dot (LOL). I don't predict I'll enter too many battles during my teaching career that will require perfect reliability from my AR system.
So the lower is together. Fit, finish and assembly all seem to be very predictably AR - precise, no slop, parkerizing is great (and matching) on all pieces. My build skills are... perhaps mildly competent (?  ) and I've not hammered, scratched or mis-assembled anything yet. I haven't assembled the barrel and fore-end to the upper yet as I'm waiting for a tool to make sure my torques are good - 3 x, at 50 ft-lbs, 60 ft-lbs, and 50-70 ft-lbs on moly-greased threads, right?
Weight is right at 8 lbs 11 ounces without a sling or a mag, assuming the BCG is 1 lb, 3 ounces. This includes my red-dot and BUIS. |
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Posted: 5/3/2016 1:08:30 AM EDT
[#2]
Pics, or it didn't happen:
Some components fitted before the build began (like my badly chosen grip). 
Closeup of the receiver. 
Pins fitted for everything but the safety. 
With the new LMT grip. 
A look at the Guntec setup - it's the 15" rail ultralight keymod rail. Photobucket is acting up - that's all for now. |
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Posted: 5/3/2016 2:11:12 AM EDT
[#3]
Keep at it. I'm slowly deciding 308 parts for myself. I got the upper, lower and handguard, and lpk. i need a stock, barrel, grip and optic.
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Posted: 5/3/2016 3:35:01 AM EDT
[#4]
51 is old enough to know best, and still young enough to get it done.
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Posted: 5/3/2016 3:39:35 AM EDT
[#5]
< Warning & Time-Out sent - F >
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Posted: 5/3/2016 7:49:09 AM EDT
[#6]
OP, looks like a good start to a build. I would be interested in seeing how much it weighs when you completed and with a loaded mag. Been debating about putting together a Palmetto State 308, but with all the different uppers/lower combinations the decision is still in the air. Good job and show us the finished pictures. |
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Posted: 5/3/2016 9:40:59 AM EDT
[#7]
Looks good OP. You'll need to get an AR10 upper vise for that barrel nut install. Typically you'll time it between 30-60ft/lbs. It came with shims though, so hopefully it will be easier. I just finished my AR10 build using PSA receivers. There weren't any issues until I tried to time the barrel nut, but midwest made it right by sending me another nut, and it timed perfectly. I hope the rail you got is DPMS low pattern, as that's what the PSA upper is.
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Posted: 5/3/2016 11:13:48 AM EDT
[#8]
Biggest thing I recommend for you OP:
Before installing the barrel, take the samples of ammunition you intend to shoot, and check that the chamber isn't too tight or short-throated. What I do is drop the cartridge in chamber, and firmly seat it with my finger. I then turn the barrel upside down, expecting it to fall out with gravity. If it doesn't fall, a light tap should cause it to release. If it requires a lot of force to remove, I color the tip with a marker, the insert it again. I remove it with a cleaning rod, and measure how much land engagement from the rifling is present. I can either chose to use more secant projectiles at that point, have the chamber correctly reamers, or return it, depending on what options I want for factory ammo. I see a lot of this happening nowadays with .223 Wylde and .308 chambers in the AR world, in addition to really tight dimensions in the chamber walls, which are not conducive to reliability in a gas gun. Another thing I personally avoid is CLGS with 16" barrels in pretty much any caliber. Port pressure and dwell time are too high, causing a lot of violent, early unlocking issues with the gun, reducing part life, and increasing felt recoil. |
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Posted: 5/3/2016 11:47:11 AM EDT
[#9]
Looks good OP. I'm right now finishing up a .308 modification. I got a great deal on a used DPMS ($400 ) and going a similar route as you.
Plus I'm a big supporter of a fellow underpaid geologist. |
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Posted: 5/3/2016 4:57:27 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
A look at the Guntec setup - it's the 15" rail ultralight keymod rail. I have done a few of the Guntec rails on LR-308s. For the money, I really like them. There are a couple of areas I address when installing them. Namely, I remove 0.020-0.030" from the non-threaded end of the barrel nut so the hand guard will butt up a little closer to the upper receiver. I have been wanting to make a thread about installing a Guntec hand guard so if you need info let me know. I have probably installed 30-40 on AR-15s. |
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Posted: 5/3/2016 8:50:17 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have done a few of the Guntec rails on LR-308s. For the money, I really like them. There are a couple of areas I address when installing them. Namely, I remove 0.020-0.030" from the non-threaded end of the barrel nut so the hand guard will butt up a little closer to the upper receiver. I have been wanting to make a thread about installing a Guntec hand guard so if you need info let me know. I have probably installed 30-40 on AR-15s. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
A look at the Guntec setup - it's the 15" rail ultralight keymod rail. I have done a few of the Guntec rails on LR-308s. For the money, I really like them. There are a couple of areas I address when installing them. Namely, I remove 0.020-0.030" from the non-threaded end of the barrel nut so the hand guard will butt up a little closer to the upper receiver. I have been wanting to make a thread about installing a Guntec hand guard so if you need info let me know. I have probably installed 30-40 on AR-15s. Thank you ALL for the kind comments. Jonblack, I may access your knowledge if I feel like things aren't going my way. I did notice that a perfectly tight mount might need just such a modification. Fortunately, I have a very high quality (LOL) tabletop belt sander which might could get this done. Still working on using a tool - I guess I need their $30 wrench, or to buy a big crowsfoot (?) wrench with a 1/2" square fitting to affix to my ultra-high-quality (LOL) torque wrench. I did buy a No-Mar upper mount for the big bench vise I have in the garage - supposedly you can mount a .223 or .308 AR in it both vertically or horizontally (if your jaws are big enough) as you see fit. Honestly, it seemed a bargain - I hope it isn't a smokin' turd. I'm sure it will be OK - most stuff I buy online seems to be about what it's advertised to be. I'll post some more pics as the build progresses. |
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Posted: 5/3/2016 9:19:35 PM EDT
[#12]
Bunglepost Admission:
I bungled when I typed up the equipment list - turns out that ARFCOM won't take longish posts. It was getting late and my sleep meds kicked in, so I just kind of drunkblogged and missed it. So - here's the kit: PSA lower: $45, blemmed. PSA upper, complete, $79(IIRC  ) The transfer and delivery fees + background check were much more than the lower.
1 Magpul 25 round mag, in black, pinned to 15 rounds by a random New York politician: $29 Battlelink MFT Minimalist in "Scorched Dark Earth." This color looks like my wife's foundation. It is NOT FDE or Sand or anything even remotely appropriate. I'll Krylon the poo out of it. $60. Carbine stock plate, with loops on both sides - $12. Hand grip: First was the MOE in gray (? ), then I thought "this LMT Ergo grip looks good" I'll sell the MOE, if anybody's interested. Or keep it and get a gray MFT stock? $29 + $25.
DPMS carbine commercial sized buffer tube. Generic carbine spring. In the $20s, maybe $29? + $6 for the spring. PSA buffer - it's some kind of a shorty. In the teens (IIRC). PSA LPK. Build went OK - is their stuff made by LMT? Who knows? Who cares? $99. PSA charging handle - nothing special about this but the $19 price. Guntec 15" Lo pro rail with included skinny barrel nut. Mild indexing required to place screwholes at 90 degree angles. $125! Barrel is a 16" DPMS 0.750" taken off some rifle. It looks little used, and was, according to the fellow who sold it to me. Probably shoot groups under 20 MOA. Probably. $200! I'm not going to add up the numbers. I don't want my wife to fire me. |
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Posted: 5/3/2016 10:02:44 PM EDT
[#13]
New accounts are limited to like 2000? characters or something. Not sure what post count/time/activity has to pass in order for it to be lifted. Images you post may also have to be approved by a mod before they display to everyone.
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Posted: 5/3/2016 10:16:31 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Bunglepost Admission:
I bungled when I typed up the equipment list - turns out that ARFCOM won't take longish posts. It was getting late and my sleep meds kicked in, so I just kind of drunkblogged and missed it. So - here's the kit: PSA lower: $45, blemmed. PSA upper, complete, $79(IIRC ) The transfer and delivery fees + background check were much more than the lower.
1 Magpul 25 round mag, in black, pinned to 15 rounds by a random New York politician: $29 Battlelink MFT Minimalist in "Scorched Dark Earth." This color looks like my wife's foundation. It is NOT FDE or Sand or anything even remotely appropriate. I'll Krylon the poo out of it. $60. Carbine stock plate, with loops on both sides - $12. Hand grip: First was the MOE in gray (? ), then I thought "this LMT Ergo grip looks good" I'll sell the MOE, if anybody's interested. Or keep it and get a gray MFT stock? $29 + $25.
DPMS carbine commercial sized buffer tube. Generic carbine spring. In the $20s, maybe $29? + $6 for the spring. PSA buffer - it's some kind of a shorty. In the teens (IIRC). PSA LPK. Build went OK - is their stuff made by LMT? Who knows? Who cares? $99. PSA charging handle - nothing special about this but the $19 price. Guntec 15" Lo pro rail with included skinny barrel nut. Mild indexing required to place screwholes at 90 degree angles. $125! Barrel is a 16" DPMS 0.750" taken off some rifle. It looks little used, and was, according to the fellow who sold it to me. Probably shoot groups under 20 MOA. Probably. $200! I'm not going to add up the numbers. I don't want my wife to fire me. Not counting your 1st grip, I've got you @ $712. Better than the DPMS Sportical my other job sells @ $770. Put the buffer @ $13, which sounds cheap. |
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Posted: 5/3/2016 10:25:06 PM EDT
[#15]
Nice work.
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Posted: 5/3/2016 10:56:00 PM EDT
[#16]
Yikes on that total. I still have to buy a BCG ($200) and a front sight.
I'll be at about $950 when all's said and done. |
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Posted: 5/4/2016 1:50:46 AM EDT
[#17]
Looks like a good build. Keep going and let us know how it performs. The total is not too bad. You've kept it reasonable. Mine spiraled up quick.
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Posted: 5/5/2016 2:54:56 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yikes on that total. I still have to buy a BCG ($200) and a front sight. I'll be at about $950 when all's said and done. Wait for sales, Aero and PSA both have daily sales. Can score a complete bcg for under 200$ for sure. Front sights, you got plenty of options if going same plane. Magpul being the most affordable and accurate. Or you can use a pinned F marked front sight since it is a low rail upper. I believe that's what PSA uses, i don't think it's 308 specific. Not too bad of an investment. I apologize for being a turd before, was only trying to joke, not be serious. That gets lost through text and not good for the tech forums. I had a momentary lapse of giving a damn. Anyways, you're definitely going to want an adjustable gas block since your using AR15 carbine length gas system i assume from the looks of the barrel, it being dpms means its more likely. Like LRRP mentioned, pressures are just too high and beat up your parts. You'll want to tone it down, and probably opt for a better spring and buffer. They really help tame things down. Makes parts last longer, and more reliable. I run into some people who think they won't shoot enough for the better parts to matter. Which is a possibility depending on your enthusiasm after that first trigger pull. But, i still say is worth the added assurance. Put the good stuff in now, keep the others as backups. Well, have fun. |
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Posted: 5/5/2016 7:46:49 AM EDT
[#19]
Ouch on that barrel cost. I ended up going with an Anderson barrel (308, 1x10) for 89 bucks. Happy with it.
Edit: and when AIM gets more 308 BCGs in, the phosphated are $159.00. |
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Posted: 5/5/2016 9:40:47 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Looks like a good build. Keep going and let us know how it performs. The total is not too bad. You've kept it reasonable. Mine spiraled up quick. Yes they do. Think mine it's just shy of 3 right now  . But that's glass and everything. Aero Precision M5E1 builder kit in OD Green 15" handguard, 20" mega barrel, slr adjustable gas block, LaRue mbt, aero bcg, warcomp, bushy 6-24x50, Harris bipod, price adds up quick.
One note about cheap plinking ammo, i bought some ZQI from the wall world for I think it was 10 bucks a box just to get some trigger time behind the rifle and to get me on paper sighting in b4 I switched to better ammo. Well the stuff throws a group the size of a 55 gallon drum at 100 yds absolutely horrible. No rhyme or reason either one shot would be 5 inches left next would be 3 inches left and 4 low. I thought the barrel was a dud or something but then i switched to some American Eagle 308 rdns and shot a nice little group about the size of a half dollar ( ya I know bs without pics ). Gonna try some federal gold medal next to see how good it really does. |
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Posted: 5/5/2016 1:53:35 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Wait for sales, Aero and PSA both have daily sales. Can score a complete bcg for under 200$ for sure. Front sights, you got plenty of options if going same plane. Magpul being the most affordable and accurate. Or you can use a pinned F marked front sight since it is a low rail upper. I believe that's what PSA uses, i don't think it's 308 specific. snipped for new post length restriction... Put the good stuff in now, keep the others as backups. Well, have fun. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Yikes on that total. I still have to buy a BCG ($200) and a front sight. I'll be at about $950 when all's said and done. Wait for sales, Aero and PSA both have daily sales. Can score a complete bcg for under 200$ for sure. Front sights, you got plenty of options if going same plane. Magpul being the most affordable and accurate. Or you can use a pinned F marked front sight since it is a low rail upper. I believe that's what PSA uses, i don't think it's 308 specific. snipped for new post length restriction... Put the good stuff in now, keep the others as backups. Well, have fun. Thanks for the advice. I guess your original post got trimmed by the mod? I've made off-color jokes in forums and have gotten warned before. I never actually read what you wrote because the mod got to it before I got home and checked the thread. It's OK, and to any other posters out there who have criticisms, feel free to levy them. As I said earlier, I only 1/4 know what I am doing. Speaking truth has gone to the wayside in modern America, as has the manly arts of calling out errors and mistakes when they rear their heads. However, I'd guess we need to stay in line with the rules of the forum, and I humbly will try to do that - if I get snotty, please call me out on it. In reviewing other posts and info on the net, you might be onto something with the adjustable gas block. Another person here was saying his rifle was tearing out the brass rims and leaving cartridges in the chamber - scary - until he got an adjustable gas block. As far as a spring goes, I wonder if a JP captured might tame the beast? Your advice and suggestions are welcome! |
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Posted: 5/5/2016 2:03:54 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
snip for new account character limit One note about cheap plinking ammo, i bought some ZQI from the wall world for I think it was 10 bucks a box just to get some trigger time behind the rifle and to get me on paper sighting in b4 I switched to better ammo. Well the stuff throws a group the size of a 55 gallon drum at 100 yds absolutely horrible. No rhyme or reason either one shot would be 5 inches left next would be 3 inches left and 4 low. I thought the barrel was a dud or something but then i switched to some American Eagle 308 rdns and shot a nice little group about the size of a half dollar ( ya I know bs without pics ). Gonna try some federal gold medal next to see how good it really does. The whole reason why I built an AR10-style gun is that every AR-15 I've ever owned has been Glock-like in reliability and accuracy. Boringly, dully, repetitively accurate. Soulless. Perfect. A Terminator. Sometimes you just want your tools to work, without drama. Sure, the AR15s vary somewhat with ammo choice - anywhere from 0.6 MOA to 4 MOA (but usually closer to 1.5). I was hoping the .308/7.62 gun would be similar. Guess we'll find out, won't we? I had PTR-91 that was accurate with surplus - 2.5 MOA? So, not that interesting. I sold it on. Handloads would bring 4 MOA . I'm an effective handloader, as I've proven with several other guns, so I didn't think it was that. I'm pretty sure roller-lockers are chamber-cut dependent, and it's a toss-up between accuracy and reliability with the roller-lock system.
Ah, rifles. They just all seem to be unique little snowflakes, and some of our touchy little babies are needier than others  .
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Posted: 5/9/2016 1:16:38 AM EDT
[#23]
Today:
I pulled out my "man-card" today (after a debilitating three-day battle against a cold) and decided I'd make a tool which would fit three sides of the slimline JK barrel nut that Guntec ships with their Ultra Light rails. This tool is differently-sized than the AR-15 barrel nut, I think (1.33"). I spent $6.72 in steel, whipped out my chop saw and metal-cutting blade and my welder and whipped up a poorly-welded but generally straight tool, with a 3/4" bolt at the top for using the torque wrench. 
I painted it "Caramel Latte" to ward off any ugly corrosion, and let it dry. I guess I'll torque the barrel during installation and shoot pics or video tomorrow. Remember - not a welder or a tool maker; I just mostly run my motormouth at 9th graders all day. It fits on all three sides like a normal too - tight but not too tight. Probably won't mess up the nut even with 60 ft-lbs on it.I think that it will work pretty well. 
Anybody wants to borrow this kit to assemble their own ARs, let me know, assuming it doesn't come apart on me, LOL. Am I a moron and a dope for making a fitting when I could have bought a perfectly good tool for $30? Frankly, I just wanted to see if I could be precise enough to make a tool which would work. Quick vid of my initial observation of the No-Mar vise block, allegedly good for AR-15 assembly. Youtube vid of no mar gun vise block. |
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Posted: 5/10/2016 12:10:40 AM EDT
[#24]
I anxiously await the next post. Keep at it geology guy; we're all pulling for you.
And nice job with the homemade tool. Years ago I made my own FAL receiver wrench and easily spent ten times the effort that buying the tool would have saved me, so I applaud your gusto. |
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Posted: 5/10/2016 12:15:32 AM EDT
[#25]
A large crescent wrench will work. I ended up doing this on my AR10 and AR15. Both armalite handguards use a standard sized nut. Crescent works good, just gotta know your torque. Plus, doesn't need to be timed so it was easy.
From the looks of your tool, a crescent would suffice. |
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Posted: 5/10/2016 12:52:11 AM EDT
[#26]
I had a bit of a setback - I've learned to love a good solid failure, as it keeps my often ballistic ego in check and reminds me that things are often more complicated than I plan them out to be. I've learned to be grateful for challenge because I'm trying to view life through a growth mindset.
[youtube]http://youtu.be/tEJ58gbTWNg It's a 30-sec vid. My welds are not cutting into the metal and binding the edges; I have the wire speed up and the voltage on high, and am not getting any "cut" or bead of any substance - just a boatload of spatter. It could also be my wire choice. I desperately need a welding class and probably a new welder (and 220 volts to power it; none of this will happen, although I could take the class this summer...). I guess I should give it another try, but I recognize that I have stacks of papers to grade and little spare time... so I paid the man for the proper Guntec wrench. I could let it out for rent to other builders! |
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Posted: 5/10/2016 1:04:02 AM EDT
[#27]
If I was to make a wrench instead of welding I'd cut the throat out with a torch or plasma cutter smaller than need be. Then grind slowly and carefully to the inside detention I needed.
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Posted: 5/13/2016 10:53:51 AM EDT
[#28]
Update:
Tool came in. Rifle assembled. Video taken, to be uploaded tonight. For a non-pro, it went very well - only minimally looked like a monkey fornicating a football. Finished product seems excellent! I only need the BCG and some flip ups, and we're in! |
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Posted: 5/15/2016 2:29:21 AM EDT
[#29]
Video is done. I had to buy some video editing software to get the job done, and I think I did a moderately professional job of it.
I am downloading the activation key now and will export to Youtube in a few minutes. I have the cash in hand to produce the BCG, and will be contacting the vendor early next week about it. |
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Posted: 5/15/2016 12:02:48 PM EDT
[#30]
Here is the video:
[youtube]http://youtu.be/eo5qdxMAO7k It's 22 minutes in length. I chopped out needless content, and gave it a little polish. Enjoy - let me know if I did anything blatantly wrong. |
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Posted: 5/15/2016 1:48:34 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Here is the video:
[youtube]http://youtu.be/eo5qdxMAO7k It's 22 minutes in length. I chopped out needless content, and gave it a little polish. Enjoy - let me know if I did anything blatantly wrong. 
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Posted: 5/16/2016 12:02:46 AM EDT
[#32]
Update:
Bolt carrier group sourced - will be purchased tomorrow afternoon. It's a KAK nitrided piece, with a kooky double ejector and bit more weight than normal (will hopefully curb the bolt-whacking; I also have a rifle spring if it's a real challenge). KAK Industries Nitrided Bolt Carrier Group. |
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Posted: 5/16/2016 1:58:48 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Update:
Bolt carrier group sourced - will be purchased tomorrow afternoon. It's a KAK nitrided piece, with a kooky double extractor and bit more weight than normal (will hopefully curb the bolt-whacking; I also have a rifle spring if it's a real challenge). KAK Industries Nitrided Bolt Carrier Group. Haven't watched the video, but if your gas key is hitting the buffer tube boss, then you may have the wrong buffer. .308" AR buffers differ btwn manufacturers. |
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Posted: 5/16/2016 4:01:31 AM EDT
[#34]
and then there's the different buffer tubes. is yours a 7.0" inside depth? looks like you got the appropriate 2.5" buffer for the 7.0" tube...
if you have the correct combo of buffer tube and buffer, an easy test is to remove the spring, drop the buffer into the tube, and then gently lower the BCG onto the buffer. if you've got it correct, there should be no bolt whacking. if your buffer is too short for your tube, then the first bad contact would be the carrier "skids" contacting the buffer tube boss. it goes downhill from there. |
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Posted: 5/17/2016 7:59:03 PM EDT
[#35]
Will check both tonight.
The KAK bolt carrier group is in. Operation seems good. I will shoot this weekend if the rifle seems to be able to be ready. My flip ups are enroute and will be here probably on Friday. I put the Primary Arms red dot on a scope riser (that's a surprisingly heavy relic from the '00s that was hunting about in my growing collection of junk). I gotta find a light-weight riser for the thing. |
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Posted: 5/17/2016 11:32:04 PM EDT
[#36]
It looks like my buffer might be too short for the buffer tube - but the spring's length when compressed has to be taken into account, so I'm not sure what the test rpol98 is suggesting would do.
I did push the BCG into the rifle with the spring in it and it seems to go back pretty far, but it's definitely NOT hitting the back of the lower. Bolt catch and stop are working just fine. Reading the archived thread on this right now. ETA: Confirmed my BCG is not going to hit anything. You can't push the BCG back into the tube far enough before it bottoms out for the back of the BCG to hit anything, and the BCG seems to be able to move far enough to the rear to pick up a cartridge, work the catch, be released, etc. I'll have to make sure when I shoot it. Looks like I bought the wrong spring, though - it's shorter than 11.5" (it's 10.5") and has 38 coils on it. Perhaps that's a carbine spring for an AR15? I will buy the spring from Midway or a retailer in town just to have an option at the range. Hell, I also have the rifle spring! |
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Posted: 5/18/2016 12:45:31 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It looks like my buffer might be too short for the buffer tube - but the spring's length when compressed has to be taken into account, so I'm not sure what the test rpol98 is suggesting would do.
I did push the BCG into the rifle with the spring in it and it seems to go back pretty far, but it's definitely NOT hitting the back of the lower. Bolt catch and stop are working just fine. Reading the archived thread on this right now. ETA: Confirmed my BCG is not going to hit anything. You can't push the BCG back into the tube far enough before it bottoms out for the back of the BCG to hit anything, and the BCG seems to be able to move far enough to the rear to pick up a cartridge, work the catch, be released, etc. I'll have to make sure when I shoot it. Looks like I bought the wrong spring, though - it's shorter than 11.5" (it's 10.5") and has 38 coils on it. Perhaps that's a carbine spring for an AR15? I will buy the spring from Midway or a retailer in town just to have an option at the range. Hell, I also have the rifle spring! The spring stacks ALONGSIDE the buffer. That's why the buffer is narrower than the tube for most of its length. Your buffer + the rear of the bolt carrier should equal the length of the buffer tube, w/out the gas key impacting. |
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Posted: 5/19/2016 12:13:32 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The spring stacks ALONGSIDE the buffer. That's why the buffer is narrower than the tube for most of its length. Your buffer + the rear of the bolt carrier should equal the length of the buffer tube, w/out the gas key impacting. Good advice in this thread. So it seems that the DPMS commercial buffer tube and short buffer might not be compatible. However, my spring is short and highly coiled (38 turns, 10.5") and I think the spring is compressing to its full extent before the buffer's hitting the back of the tube. I guess if I fire it like that, the buffer won't really work as a shock-absorbing device because the rubber on the end won't ever get to the bottom of the tube before it hits.. I think I need a slightly longer buffer (like 3.25"?) in order to actually reach the tail of the tube. I also need the correct 27-coil spring that is thinner. I suspect I got sold an AR - 556 rifle spring instead of a .308 carbine spring - - 38 coils, 10.5" long. ETA: I got sold an AR-15 carbine spring; I just confirmed it. You can't trust your retailer to know your build, you've got to know for yourself. |
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Posted: 5/20/2016 11:24:26 PM EDT
[#39]
Correct spring purchased from Midway is in - 27 turns, 11.5".
Bolt does indeed move further back - appears to contact the buffer at the extreme end of the travel of the 7" deep buffer tube, VERY close to the receiver. Probably when the rubber squishes, the rear of the carrier will smack the receiver. I will indeed need the 3.25" buffer. A gun show is in Loveland tomorrow, and I'll test and buy one there. I'll also buy another mag, and see if the retailer will take back the gray MOE for store credit. I will also look for an adjustable gas block with the idea that I'll shoot n' tune at the range. Last day of school is Friday next week - I can concentrate on making a great-running rifle after the kiddos are taken care of. Got a bunch of ammo, and brass... bought some bullets too. Got plenty of powder. Feels good to be planning shooting again, after a 2-year layoff (first couple of years teaching at a $22,000/year salary meant no range time). |
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Posted: 5/21/2016 8:27:07 AM EDT
[#40]
Looking forward to the range report.
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Posted: 5/28/2016 1:15:22 PM EDT
[#41]
UPDATE 05/28:
I took the completed rifle to a retailer I know who examined it. He stated that it is looking just fine, and that what I thought would be the bolt smacking into the receiver with compression of the rubber piece was inaccurate - that the rifle should work within normal specifications. I have 100 factory-loaded rounds ready to go. I will probably produce a workup load of .308 (anybody have a good recipe with X-Terminator?) to see if I can develop what I'd call a "good standard load" on the off-hand chance the rifle works as built. Range trip is tomorrow. School is out for the summer but I still have a week of glad-handing and cleanup to do, then I can really focus on getting a shooter. For cheap optics, I think I'll be examining a 1 x 6 Millett DMS scope. I like Millett optics and the weight is good for "noodle-arms." |
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Posted: 5/31/2016 9:38:37 AM EDT
[#42]
UPDATE 31 MAY 16: Range trip movie shot and edited, compiled and uploaded to YouTube.
Will post a description of the day plus my video link tomorrow afternoon when I get back from school. |
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Posted: 5/31/2016 10:00:30 PM EDT
[#43]
[youtube]http://youtu.be/j4pOAH22KaQ
I guess I still can't get the window to show in the editor as I am still "too new." Whatever. Anyway, the range trip was great. Function was utterly flawless, until I induced one failure to extract because a shell got caught in the ejection port on the net fabric of the shell catcher. With the shell-catcher removed, I had no problems. That KAK Industries bolt is chunky and badass, with the double-sprung ejectors kicking that brass out of the breech with authority - rounds ended up in a loose pile 12 feet to the right about 4:00. I had NO problems with recoil being too severe or the bolt bashing the back of the rifle. Fired about 35 rounds to get zero as I did not have a spotter, and was using a dead battery on the red dot in bright sunlight to shoot. I still can't believe I was stupid enough to drive 3000 miles out to Baker's Draw Shooting Area without a CR 2023 spare battery. Semper Paratus! I would place the red-dot over the target and immediately lose sight of it, and have to move my eyes around because they are more sensitive to red at the periphery of your vision.
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Posted: 5/31/2016 10:01:18 PM EDT
[#44]
The group you see in the video is me moving the rifle off-target against a darker background to pick up the dot, then moving it back over the black, where I was now almost totally unable to see it, and pulling the miles-long, 700-lb pull trigger. If I "guessed" it was on target, I'd yank on the horrible trigger... and hope for the best. Good GOD, that is an abortion! I did use a 50 - yard target to confirm zero initially, but it was far too small to bring a rifle that was 40" to the left @ 100 yards on.
I shot two boxes of 147 grain FMJ ZQI ammo, which seemed to function the weapon well but offer only passable accuracy (in as much as I could tell with my totally inappropriate sights), and two boxes of 168 grain Privi Partizan Match ammo, which seemed to want to group with much better accuracy. It's all academic until I get some kind of a magnified optic on the rifle. I eventually brought the rifle to a state of regulation and was able to slam my 8" plate off the bench (after the clouds came in and darkened the sky a tad). I even got a couple seated, but missed a few - it's been a year since I used a rifle and it shows a little. My fundies are rusty. Brass: I have scratches on the neck of the brass, which seemed to diminish to near-zero in the 70-round range. Probably a couple of crummy tooling burrs being worked out by the shells. I can't wait to put magnified optics on it and develop loads! |
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Posted: 5/31/2016 10:13:01 PM EDT
[#45]
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Posted: 5/31/2016 10:25:20 PM EDT
[#46]
Just tiny, nit picky things, but your flash hider looks like a muzzle brake to me, and I don't think one normally uses both a crush washer AND a jam nut to install muzzle devices.
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Posted: 7/12/2016 10:06:01 PM EDT
[#47]
Updates:
Have fired now 200 rounds out of the rifle. Items of note (split into two posts, due to stupid restriction):
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Posted: 7/12/2016 10:18:50 PM EDT
[#48]
Other half of my post:
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Posted: 7/12/2016 10:54:44 PM EDT
[#49]
Oh geez, people are still sending triggers to Springfield?
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Posted: 7/12/2016 11:32:36 PM EDT
[#50]
I've given him three triggers and nary a problem. None with this one, either.
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I will hit that bad boy with some blue-goo (loctite) to retain it.