So my last two builds I've used BCM KMR rails. I've been extremely happy with the design and the way the rail locks up with the barrel but. Precious two were ALG ergo 2's and equally happy but those guns were built with a different end game in mind. So looking for opinions, Primary has the Noveske chainsaw skinny rail in sale for $205, they show regular price to be $250, I'm sure they're probably quite a bit more if they aren't chainsaws. I have never owned anything Noveske, I do know reputation is great if not overpriced. So for $189 for a KMR vs $205 for the Noveske, which way would you go?

Both are fantastic.

I personally prefer Noveske, but based on aesthetics only.

BCM.  The attachment method and barrel nut setup are worlds better.  The NSR requires you to time the barrel nut fairly precisely and you also have to drill the upper receiver to make use of the "anti-rotation" feature.

I found the Noveske to be easier to install than the KMR.

A little write up about the KMR vs NSR handguards.

Thanks both for the input. Much appreciated.

That's funny.  Other than using barrel nuts that require shims, the NSR is about the worst mountings system I've ever used (and I own 3 NSR's).  I think timing a barrel nut a dated practice with what's out there now.  It's even worst when the NSR barrel nut has two usable threaded sides - 90% of the time I torque the wrong side only to find it won't line up, now you have to remove and retorque the other.  Six mounting screws that aren't countersunk.  Proprietary or modified upper if you want the antirotation function.  Love the look and feel but a dated system IMO

I can't argue with you.

However, it still looks and feels better than anything else I have seen or tried.  Of course, that is subjective.

I never found the BCM's method of heating the rail up for a minute and having to tap it on with a hammer an acceptable method especially with a nice stainless barrel below it potentially getting marred up after you've bead blasted it.

The NSR's barrel nut is set up for the 13.5, 15, and 16.7" length, since a shorter barrel nut would allow flex.  Todd_K on M4C said the barrel nut was designed to be longer to create a more stable handguard with the 2 sided barrel nut.  I certainly have had to use the upper range of torque on several NSRs to get the barrel nut timed, but I have yet to be unable to get it done quickly.  Todd_K even said the anti-rotation feature was not necessary but that Noveske chose to use it on their guns.

I have yet to hear about one coming loose that was properly installed.

I've installed 3 KMRs and none of them required any heat to install on the barrel nut.  So long as you make sure the barrel nut is free of burrs on the off chance the wrench slips, it will be tight, but should be able to slide on with some pressure or light taps from a gunsmithing hammer.  It also helps that the nut doesn't need timed, so you don't have to keep installing and removing the rail to make sure everything is lined up correctly.

Having the option of an anti-rotation feature that doesn't require additional machine work is nice as well (along with being cheap insurance, even if it's not absolutely necessary).

ETA:  Just to add, I've used the NSR as well, so I do have experience with both products.

I went by BCM's instructions.  PDF

#10

My methods in assembling work well for me, as I prefer to dry fit almost everything to ensure that they're copacetic and gas blocks aren't hitting the inside of a rail (CMR, URX2/3 with a flip sight, etc) and that the barrel is centered in the handguard.  I don't mind the finished product that the NSR provides.  BCMs work out well for you, and NSRs work well for me.  I've done many more NSRs than just about anything else, outside of KAC URXs, and thank God we have options that work out well for everyone.

KMR with V7 Ti barrel nut and hardware.

I've installed at least 4 of both, and I prefer the Noveske.  I prefer the look, as well as the feel.  Some people are bashing the Noveske mounting method, but the KMR method is far from perfect.  The KMR barrel nut is aluminum and the little slots that the wrench fits into will mis-shape when you try to apply proper torque.  Then you have to file down any corners or little burrs that form on the nut from the wrench fucking it.  Even if that doesn't happen, you are still going to have to heat the rail up with a heat gun to get it over the barrel nut.  

Yes, you have to time the Noveske nuts, but that has always been pretty easy for me.  I believe this nut is aluminum also, but it has big flat sides in the middle, so you can use a big open ended wrench.  I have even used large crescent wrenches.  You can get a lot of torque and you don't have to worry about the nut mis-shaping.  Yes, it uses 6 screws to hold it on, but that is a positive for me.  If I want to clean my barrel under the rail, or do something with the gasblock or gastube, repaint my barrel, whatever, I can loosen 6 screws and slide it off.  I don't have to get a heat gun out.  I use the Vltor MUR receivers that have the spot for the anti rotation pin, so I have never had to drill one myself. 

The only way you will have a problem with the Noveske rail mounting lock-up is if your entire barrel nut comes loose and you didn't use the anti rotation pin.  If you whole barrel nut comes loose, you didn't do something right in the first place and the rail is not the problem. 

I love the look and feel of the NSR rails and there are several vendors that make uppers with the anti rotation pin hole. I don't love timing barrel nuts and these ones usually go ok.

For non times rails I really like the Geissele ones. Very straightforward installation and I think they look good.

The Mega wedge lock is a great choice, too. Very nice locking mechanism and the rail coating is smooth and slick. 

I've never tried a KMR and after reading the installation instructions I think it's going to stay that way. 

-Stooxie

Nsr for the aesthetics. Got 2 uppers with NSRs and I have installed and taken them off multiple times without any problems. If you really have to have the anti rotation feature, mega uppers have a predrilled hole that matches perfectly.

That being said, my next rail is probably going to be a kmr alpha. Seems to be pretty a pretty big bang for the buck esp from optics planet when they have 10-12% coupons and free shipping.

I installed the bcm kmr with the v seven titanium but and hardware and a noveske nsr the same day. The kmr went right together. Rail slid right over the barrel nut with hand force, no hammer required. The noveske was a pain to time correctly. I like them about equally I guess but the kmr with the titinum hardware is much lighter.

I personally hate timed barrel nuts. KAC's URX4 solution is one exception. I hate it, but it's also very parts-number and joint-number economical, so it's a wash to me. I am much more a fan of "torque to spec" and then "install the rail", not "torque to the rail's requirements and hope it's to spec" or ALG's myriad of spacers and the nightmare that is timing the rail.  Daniel Defense has a pretty cool solution now days, as well, that I also like. I find KAC's solution the most innovative, and the Wedgelock type systems the most solid, and stuff like Noveske's system to be outdated and annoying and of no conceivable benefit vs. better methods.

ETA: KAC guns aren't very "user workshop friendly" without an investment in knowledge and material, so typically it's not an aftermarket solution.

Some items need correcting here. Both the KMR and the NSR factory barrel nuts are steel. There are aftermarket barrel nuts available in titanium and aluminum for each.

Stop buying fake airsoft KMR rails and you would have a better opinion of them. The barrel nut is steel on a real one. I have installed 6 of them, currently own 4. They all required no heat. 3 required no tapping with a rubber hammer. None had distorted barrel nuts. One of the 6 was a used unit where the previous owner boogered up the install somehow and put the nut in crooked. I used a fresh nut and it went together perfectly. Best install method ever. The barrel nut wrench is also the best castle nut wrench I have ever used and won't booger up a castle nut. All this requires care to not misaligned your wrench during install, by holding it with your off hand. It is impossible to ding the edges if you follow that one simple rule. Fact is if your KMR were real, dinged notches are 100% installer error via misalignment and allowing wrench to pop out while tourquing.

installed and own a cpl of both, I like the kmr better myself and as far as mounting id go bcm all the way.

You're awfully butt hurt about my opinion.  Every KMR I have ever bought has been straight from BCM.  I'm just has big of a BCM fan as the next guy, but it's not a perfect system.  Even if the wrench doesn't slip, the notch on the barrel nut will still deform and widen once you try to put any real torque on it.  It's soft steel.  The titanium nuts are probably perfect, but I'm not paying $60 bucks for one of those.  That's great that yours didn't require any heat, but mine always do.  If you read the instructions, they state specifically that you will probably need to heat it up to slide it over the barrel nut and suggest using heat.  I also got one of the original magnesium KMR's and still have it.  Guess what?  It's too soft.  I still use it, but I wouldn't buy another one.  If the KMR and the NSR are the same price, I'm going to buy the NSR every time.    

May I offer an alternative...

SMOS GFY MLOK rails.  IMO, the best-looking upper-rail combo out there.  If they look like Noveske Gen 3s, there's a reason - SMOS is an OEM who for years made Noveske's Gen 3 uppers and NSR rails.  SMOS also used to make LaRue's receivers back in the day.  Highly recommended.

https://www.smosarms.com/collections/rails/products/gfy-mlok-rail?variant=36756286727

I like the original KMR, it's the best hands down for saving weight especially with v7 titanium or custom aluminum hardware. The exception to that rule is the brigand arms carbon fiber handguard, but i'm not a fan of those as they aren't nearly as modular. By the time you attach the rails to put stuff on it the kmr is the same weight! On my duty rifle i use the NSR though. I use an el cheapo chinese copy anyways with a steel barrel nut. It is just well designed. All of v7's handguards use the same style barrel nut too. Sure it takes 20 more minutes to get it timed but once you do it's worth the wait! I think the anti rotation insert is cool but unnecessary. There's no such thing as being too sure of your rifle though.

I have never needed to tap one on after heating it up with a hair dryer and oiling the barrel nut.

I've also never seen a properly installed NSR or similar rail come loose.

Neither.

NSR install method is antiquated.

The KMR barrel nut is made of a soft margarine  Ive seen alot of chewed up barrel nuts from the KMR, which in turn gouges the inside of the rail badly. The tool to barrel nut interface is less than desirable.

YMMV

Hand files are your friend when installing a KMR barrel nut.  Learned that one the hard way.  

I'm probably going to use a SMOS handguard for the 6.5 Grendel rifle I have going right now. It will be used on a CMT upper which also has the NSR anti-rotation compatibility. None of the NSRs I have installed ever needed the pin though. Fwiw, if you can live without a shell deflector, AIM has CMT uppers for $99. Mod4s I believe.