Noveske NSR Keymod Rail Covers Falling Off

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Noveske NSR Keymod Rail Covers Falling Off

Posted: 3/19/2013 9:08:27 PM EDT

I was in a carbine class last weekend and two of my Noveske NSR Keymod rail covers fell off.

I had noted on installation that the large Keymod panel with the grip stop built in is molded so that either side of the grip stop piece is bent down away from where it would meet the rail.

Anyone have any ideas? Should I try buying a third pack of them because the first two packs are both like this...I didn't enjoy digging for pieces of my gun during the class :)

Posted: 3/20/2013 4:24:21 AM EDT

[#1]

Just to be clear, are you using the supplied locking panel on the end? Mine are solid. If anything, they're a pain in the ass to remove.

Posted: 3/20/2013 4:44:38 AM EDT

[#2]

Quoted:
Just to be clear, are you using the supplied locking panel on the end? Mine are solid. If anything, they're a pain in the ass to remove.

This. Make sure those locking panels are on the end. They are a pain to remove for me as well

Posted: 3/20/2013 5:31:04 AM EDT

[#3]

I'm having issues with the locking portion on one of mine actually staying flush with the rail. And some of the panels not fitting...

Posted: 3/20/2013 7:02:51 AM EDT

[#4]

Quoted:
I'm having issues with the locking portion on one of mine actually staying flush with the rail. And some of the panels not fitting...

Had this problem too. Try using a hair dryer or heat gun and apply pressure to the plastic.

Posted: 3/20/2013 7:20:02 AM EDT

[#5]

Quoted:

Quoted:
I'm having issues with the locking portion on one of mine actually staying flush with the rail. And some of the panels not fitting...

Had this problem too. Try using a hair dryer or heat gun and apply pressure to the plastic.

Noted. Any suggestions for the part that goes into the rail being too tight? I think I ruined two or three panels because of this. I can snap pictures later.

Posted: 3/20/2013 9:47:44 AM EDT

[#6]

Quoted:

Quoted:
I'm having issues with the locking portion on one of mine actually staying flush with the rail. And some of the panels not fitting...

Had this problem too. Try using a hair dryer or heat gun and apply pressure to the plastic.

Noted. Any suggestions for the part that goes into the rail being too tight? I think I ruined two or three panels because of this. I can snap pictures later.

I had some that were tight but I just forced them on. You could try filing down the area with sandpaper or something similar.

Posted: 3/20/2013 11:23:14 AM EDT

[#7]

I have a few different NSR rails, and have found that I need to use a hairdryer to heat the polymer to get the lock pieces on. With heating, they are easy to put on, and lock in place very securely. My concern about sanding them is that they may not hold up as securely when used out in the field.

Posted: 3/20/2013 1:07:06 PM EDT

[#8]

Quoted:

I have a few different NSR rails, and have found that I need to use a hairdryer to heat the polymer to get the lock pieces on.

I read this and honestly expected a photo of a few handguns and a hairdryer

Posted: 3/20/2013 1:09:21 PM EDT

[#9]

Quoted:

Quoted:
I have a few different NSR rails, and have found that I need to use a hairdryer to heat the polymer to get the lock pieces on.

I read this and honestly expected a photo of a few handguns and a hairdryer

It would be better if the hair dryer was plugged into the keymod covers

.

Posted: 3/20/2013 1:33:30 PM EDT

[#10]

Yes, its the locking piece that is falling off.

It is in the proper place, it will even push into the round part of the keymod but it just comes back out because it is too small or something.

Apparently its pretty common for that specific piece (the locking handstop piece) to be molded so that it bends away from the rail. Very odd...and it doesn't work on my rail.

I will probably switch to a flush locking piece and take off the handstop since it won't stay on.

As you can see in the photo, the piece is obviously pushed far enough forward and it DOES fit if hold my thumb there...but once I move it away it pops back out.

Posted: 3/20/2013 2:03:01 PM EDT

[#11]

Quoted:
Yes, its the locking piece that is falling off.

It is in the proper place, it will even push into the round part of the keymod but it just comes back out because it is too small or something.

Apparently its pretty common for that specific piece (the locking handstop piece) to be molded so that it bends away from the rail. Very odd...and it doesn't work on my rail.

I will probably switch to a flush locking piece and take off the handstop since it won't stay on.

As you can see in the photo, the piece is obviously pushed far enough forward and it DOES fit if hold my thumb there...but once I move it away it pops back out.

http://i1254.photobucket.com/albums/hh617/norinco982lover/4E05C824-9973-40C9-884A-8A925B466511-10374-00000AE72C381D39_zps6823b2af.jpg

http://i1254.photobucket.com/albums/hh617/norinco982lover/3321239E-7B44-4B1D-AB2C-CE0E2226F5A7-10374-00000AE7813B6796_zps9d9bb5a4.jpg

That is exactly how mine looks.

Posted: 3/20/2013 3:43:56 PM EDT

[#12]

I have a sime fix for this, don't buy those gimmicky rail-less hand guards. This goes for all of them.
The rail-less handguard weight savings is minimal, especially when you start tacking on rail pieces and the screws that
go with them. Is saving 1 gram of weight worth a light, laser or sling mount falling off?

Posted: 3/20/2013 4:17:28 PM EDT

[#13]

Quoted:
I have a sime fix for this, don't buy those gimmicky rail-less hand guards. This goes for all of them.
The rail-less handguard weight savings is minimal, especially when you start tacking on rail pieces and the screws that
go with them. Is saving 1 gram of weight worth a light, laser or sling mount falling off?

it's obvious you're fishing for debate.... I'll give you this:

Posted: 3/20/2013 4:22:06 PM EDT

[#14]

Quoted:
I have a sime fix for this, don't buy those gimmicky rail-less hand guards. This goes for all of them.
The rail-less handguard weight savings is minimal, especially when you start tacking on rail pieces and the screws that
go with them. Is saving 1 gram of weight worth a light, laser or sling mount falling off?

I'm sure the same was said when railed handguards came around. Give the platform some time and it will adapt and overcome. I also think there is a big difference between a piece of handguard falling off and a rail section with light attached falling off.

Posted: 3/20/2013 4:43:35 PM EDT

[#15]

Yeah I ain't getting in on that argument either. I can think of 0 reasons why you WOULD need a quad rail.

Posted: 3/20/2013 5:14:19 PM EDT

[#16]

Quoted:
Yeah I ain't getting in on that argument either. I can think of 0 reasons why you WOULD need a quad rail.

Posted: 3/20/2013 5:36:02 PM EDT

[#17]

From the picture I can tell the rear lug wasn't fully seated in the rail slot when it was forced on.

Since it was halfway in it sheared the lug and compromised it.

It happens on that piece because the handstop gives you leverage and lifts the lug when you push it on.

You have to press down extremely hard and use a plastic mallet to knock it into place then tap the locking lug into the last slot.

I use the case rim of a magpul dummy round to lift the locking tab and tap it with the mallet to get it off the rail.

That piece is trash and should be tossed. Just use a little more caution when you put that piece on. The plastic mallet works extremely well on all the pieces on or off.

Posted: 3/20/2013 6:15:16 PM EDT

[#18]

Quoted:
Yeah I ain't getting in on that argument either. I can think of 0 reasons why you WOULD need a quad rail.

I see no use for a quad rail either if you just use your rifle for a few range trips here and there...
But for those of us that use lights, lasers and grips etc.. they are quite handy. If mounted directly to the rail, your only point of failure is the mount itself.
Why add another point of failure into the equation....especially for a weight savings measured in grams.

Posted: 3/20/2013 6:37:04 PM EDT

[#19]

Quoted:
I have a sime fix for this, don't buy those gimmicky rail-less hand guards. This goes for all of them.
The rail-less handguard weight savings is minimal, especially when you start tacking on rail pieces and the screws that
go with them. Is saving 1 gram of weight worth a light, laser or sling mount falling off?

I'll bite. Rail feels much better in my hands. I'm not doing it for weight, its strictly based on comfort for me.

Posted: 3/20/2013 6:45:57 PM EDT

[#20]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Yeah I ain't getting in on that argument either. I can think of 0 reasons why you WOULD need a quad rail.

I see no use for a quad rail either if you just use your rifle for a few range trips here and there...
But for those of us that use lights, lasers and grips etc.. they are quite handy. If mounted directly to the rail, your only point of failure is the mount itself.
Why add another point of failure into the equation....especially for a weight savings measured in grams.

Why would you need have 12 inches (or whatever length) of rails running the entire length of your hand guard at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock positions? It adds a bunch of bulky cheese graters over every section that is not occupied by an accessory or a a rail cover. On an NSR, you just run an offset light mount that attaches to the top rail section, a QD and a bottom section for a vertical grip (if you run one) and the overall feel is much improved over say a DD Lite. If you can't attach the accessories properly with thread locker then you have no business owning an AR in the first place.

Another option really worth considering are those rails (I can't remember who makes them) that have smooth sides and 2 inches of rails at the front.

Posted: 3/20/2013 6:56:57 PM EDT

[#21]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Yeah I ain't getting in on that argument either. I can think of 0 reasons why you WOULD need a quad rail.

I see no use for a quad rail either if you just use your rifle for a few range trips here and there...
But for those of us that use lights, lasers and grips etc.. they are quite handy. If mounted directly to the rail, your only point of failure is the mount itself.
Why add another point of failure into the equation....especially for a weight savings measured in grams.

Why would you need have 12 inches (or whatever length) of rails running the entire length of your hand guard at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock positions? It adds a bunch of bulky cheese graters over every section that is not occupied by an accessory or a a rail cover. On an NSR, you just run an offset light mount that attaches to the top rail section, a QD and a bottom section for a vertical grip (if you run one) and the overall feel is much improved over say a DD Lite. If you can't attach the accessories properly with thread locker then you have no business owning an AR in the first place.

Another option really worth considering are those rails (I can't remember who makes then) that have smooth sides and 2 inches of rails at the front.

I think the slick tubes are fine for gamer/plinking guns but not a good substitute for a real rail.

Why would you compare to a DD Lite?

The DD Lite is the biggest, fugliest rail out there. Grab a La Rue, Knights or a RIS II...

Posted: 3/20/2013 6:58:28 PM EDT

[#22]

Quoted:

Quoted:
I'm having issues with the locking portion on one of mine actually staying flush with the rail. And some of the panels not fitting...

Had this problem too. Try using a hair dryer or heat gun and apply pressure to the plastic.

Noted. Any suggestions for the part that goes into the rail being too tight? I think I ruined two or three panels because of this. I can snap pictures later.

Me too. I have a few panels that are all mangled / shaved. NSR rail is GTG. The rail covers blow!

Posted: 3/20/2013 7:00:58 PM EDT

[#23]

Quoted:

Quoted:
I have a sime fix for this, don't buy those gimmicky rail-less hand guards. This goes for all of them.
The rail-less handguard weight savings is minimal, especially when you start tacking on rail pieces and the screws that
go with them. Is saving 1 gram of weight worth a light, laser or sling mount falling off?

I'll bite. Rail feels much better in my hands. I'm not doing it for weight, its strictly based on comfort for me.

Gloves or polymer rail panels will do the same. Back to you..

Posted: 3/20/2013 7:04:22 PM EDT

[#24]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Yeah I ain't getting in on that argument either. I can think of 0 reasons why you WOULD need a quad rail.

I see no use for a quad rail either if you just use your rifle for a few range trips here and there...
But for those of us that use lights, lasers and grips etc.. they are quite handy. If mounted directly to the rail, your only point of failure is the mount itself.
Why add another point of failure into the equation....especially for a weight savings measured in grams.

Why would you need have 12 inches (or whatever length) of rails running the entire length of your hand guard at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock positions? It adds a bunch of bulky cheese graters over every section that is not occupied by an accessory or a a rail cover. On an NSR, you just run an offset light mount that attaches to the top rail section, a QD and a bottom section for a vertical grip (if you run one) and the overall feel is much improved over say a DD Lite. If you can't attach the accessories properly with thread locker then you have no business owning an AR in the first place.

Another option really worth considering are those rails (I can't remember who makes then) that have smooth sides and 2 inches of rails at the front.

Who said anything about a 12 inch rail? I see no need for more than 7-9 inches for me personally.

Posted: 3/20/2013 7:09:41 PM EDT

[#25]

Quoted:

Quoted:
I have a sime fix for this, don't buy those gimmicky rail-less hand guards. This goes for all of them.
The rail-less handguard weight savings is minimal, especially when you start tacking on rail pieces and the screws that
go with them. Is saving 1 gram of weight worth a light, laser or sling mount falling off?

I'll bite. Rail feels much better in my hands. I'm not doing it for weight, its strictly based on comfort for me.

Gloves or polymer rail panels will do the same. Back to you..

Had polymer rail panels on my Larue Rail slick. It is the slimness of the NSR that I like.

Posted: 3/20/2013 7:15:11 PM EDT

[#26]

Quoted:
From the picture I can tell the rear lug wasn't fully seated in the rail slot when it was forced on.

Since it was halfway in it sheared the lug and compromised it.

It happens on that piece because the handstop gives you leverage and lifts the lug when you push it on.

You have to press down extremely hard and use a plastic mallet to knock it into place then tap the locking lug into the last slot.

I use the case rim of a magpul dummy round to lift the locking tab and tap it with the mallet to get it off the rail.

That piece is trash and should be tossed. Just use a little more caution when you put that piece on. The plastic mallet works extremely well on all the pieces on or off.

I think we have a winner. Unfortunately, the same piece from my other panel has the same issue.

It probably happened while taking them off and putting them back on a few times trying to get them where I wanted them.

They must be a one time installation piece ;) (or else be very careful you aren't compromising the plastic!)

As far as the rail/smooth tube goes nobody is convincing me of anything.

I have tried several rails and they really are unneeded for me.

A fighting rifle needs a sling, a light, and preferably an optic of some sort. A decent smooth rail can do all of that easily. The VFG is outdated and a thing of the past...the only good it does is serve as a handstop if you prefer one.

Thanks guys!

Posted: 3/20/2013 8:29:36 PM EDT

[#27]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Yeah I ain't getting in on that argument either. I can think of 0 reasons why you WOULD need a quad rail.

I see no use for a quad rail either if you just use your rifle for a few range trips here and there...
But for those of us that use lights, lasers and grips etc.. they are quite handy. If mounted directly to the rail, your only point of failure is the mount itself.
Why add another point of failure into the equation....especially for a weight savings measured in grams.

Why would you need have 12 inches (or whatever length) of rails running the entire length of your hand guard at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock positions? It adds a bunch of bulky cheese graters over every section that is not occupied by an accessory or a a rail cover. On an NSR, you just run an offset light mount that attaches to the top rail section, a QD and a bottom section for a vertical grip (if you run one) and the overall feel is much improved over say a DD Lite. If you can't attach the accessories properly with thread locker then you have no business owning an AR in the first place.

Another option really worth considering are those rails (I can't remember who makes then) that have smooth sides and 2 inches of rails at the front.

I think the slick tubes are fine for gamer/plinking guns but not a good substitute for a real rail.

Why would you compare to a DD Lite?

The DD Lite is the biggest, fugliest rail out there. Grab a La Rue, Knights or a RIS II...

The DD Lite and RIS II are the only quality quad rails that I have owned thus far. I spoke to the DD Lite b/c it was the one that demonstrates the largest contrast to the NSR. As for the RIS II, I liked the look of it and it is somewhat smaller but if the NSR and RIS II were the same price for the same length, I would choose the NSR. I am not jumping out of helicopters or bashing my AR into concrete bunkers so for my application, the NSR's weight and comfort are the deciding factors.

Posted: 3/20/2013 8:41:28 PM EDT

[#28]

Good info. Ordering panels for my Fortis tonight.

Posted: 3/21/2013 10:48:11 AM EDT

[#29]

Quoted:

Quoted:
From the picture I can tell the rear lug wasn't fully seated in the rail slot when it was forced on.

Since it was halfway in it sheared the lug and compromised it.

It happens on that piece because the handstop gives you leverage and lifts the lug when you push it on.

You have to press down extremely hard and use a plastic mallet to knock it into place then tap the locking lug into the last slot.

I use the case rim of a magpul dummy round to lift the locking tab and tap it with the mallet to get it off the rail.

That piece is trash and should be tossed. Just use a little more caution when you put that piece on. The plastic mallet works extremely well on all the pieces on or off.

I think we have a winner. Unfortunately, the same piece from my other panel has the same issue.

It probably happened while taking them off and putting them back on a few times trying to get them where I wanted them.

They must be a one time installation piece ;) (or else be very careful you aren't compromising the plastic!)

As far as the rail/smooth tube goes nobody is convincing me of anything.

I have tried several rails and they really are unneeded for me.

A fighting rifle needs a sling, a light, and preferably an optic of some sort. A decent smooth rail can do all of that easily. The VFG is outdated and a thing of the past...the only good it does is serve as a handstop if you prefer one.

Thanks guys!

I agreed with you up until the statement about the VFG...I happen to love the VFG on my rifle, though I haven't found the perfect one yet. :0) I prefer a stubby VFG, can't stand the AFG. Prefer nothing over the AFG, but a small handstop isn't enough for me, as I prefer my front hand to rest partially on the VFG. I don't think i am alone in that sentiment either. :)

I certainly wouldn't call them an outdated thing of the past.

Posted: 3/21/2013 7:29:51 PM EDT

[#30]

I guess I was referring more of the way you grip the VFG.

If you can rest your hand against it better than a smaller handstop than more power to you.

Posted: 3/30/2013 11:41:22 AM EDT

[#31]

I know this isn't going to help you with the issue at hand

But, do you mind sharing where you were able to purchase the NSR? I haven't found a site on line that has them in stock. Thanks