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Posted: 10/23/2010 9:50:33 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/23/2010 9:50:56 AM EST by CAR-AR-M16]
I have a barrel nut that I am trying to loosen and it is being very stubborn. I have tried putting the barrel/upper in the freezer and tried getting some oil down into the threads, but nothing is working. I have already stripped a few teeth and am afraid to lose any more. Any suggestions?
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Posted: 10/23/2010 9:57:52 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/23/2010 9:58:49 AM EST by Stickman]
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Posted: 10/23/2010 10:06:13 AM EST
I recently had this issue with a Del-Ton upper - it even broke a barrel nut wrench. I used a Troy TRX barrel nut wrench, which engages about half the teeth on the nut, a 1/2" breaker bar, and two extensions. That finally worked.
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Posted: 10/23/2010 10:34:59 AM EST
Yes, I have it clamped in a vise with a receiver block. I am using a standard GI 3-Pin barrel nut wrench. I am pushing the wrench fully up against the nut. I guess I will have to try a cheater bar next.
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Posted: 10/23/2010 11:08:40 AM EST
Right tools for the job PRI Barrel Nut Wrench for AR15 and Wisdom 1/2" Torque Wrench 150 ft lb and a good bench vise.
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Posted: 10/23/2010 11:29:20 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/23/2010 11:34:55 AM EST by shadowcop]
I had a Bushmaster I had to use a propane torch on the nut.
I've got to get one of those PRI Barrel Nut Wrenches.
It does work with a standard G.I. barrel nut doesn't it?
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Posted: 10/23/2010 11:53:42 AM EST
If by "a standard G.I. barrel nut" you mean mil-spec, it does.
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Posted: 10/23/2010 12:18:52 PM EST
I read on another forum that it didn't fit a mil spec nut. Didn't make since. Just wanted to make sure it wasn't designed for a free float only.
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Posted: 10/23/2010 12:28:23 PM EST
Bridgeport and cut the nut in 2, depth of cut very important.
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Posted: 10/23/2010 12:41:47 PM EST
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Posted: 10/23/2010 2:39:26 PM EST
Originally Posted By psdavi01:
Right tools for the job PRI Barrel Nut Wrench for AR15 and Wisdom 1/2" Torque Wrench 150 ft lb and a good bench vise.


Torque wrench is not the tool to use for breaking torque. You need a breaker bar.
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Posted: 10/23/2010 3:35:38 PM EST
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By CAR-AR-M16:
guess I will have to try a cheater bar next.




I throw a socket wrench on, and have a jack handle that slides over it. I've not run into one that combo hasn't made short work of.



jackhandle? just a little bit of heat makes it an easy job with the right tool. 3 or 4 seconds in 3 or 4 places with a propane flame. thats all.
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Posted: 10/23/2010 4:23:34 PM EST
I use a breaker bar I bought in the clearance bin at Auto Zone for $3.99.
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Posted: 10/24/2010 12:30:35 AM EST
Originally Posted By nf9648:
Originally Posted By psdavi01:
Right tools for the job PRI Barrel Nut Wrench for AR15 and Wisdom 1/2" Torque Wrench 150 ft lb and a good bench vise.


Torque wrench is not the tool to use for breaking torque. You need a breaker bar.


You are right, but it does work, and you need a torque wrench for reinstalling the barrel nut.

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Posted: 10/24/2010 6:28:56 AM EST
If you have already broken teeth without out a handle extension, and the wrench was kept flat (as you stated), you will probably just break more teeth, easier this time.
Your best bet is the PRI or other well made wrench that engages at least half of the teeth. But considering that you have broken some already, you will probably want to replace the nut.

Heat could do the trick, but don't get too generous with the torch. If that doesn't work, splitting the nut is the next step.

Carefully cutting thru the nut with a dremel or other grinding tool, and then retry the wrench. If you have cut enough of the nut, it will crack open and spread enough to come loose.

Remember, you do want to replace the nut now anyway. Also, accidentally making light cuts on the receiver threads won't ruin it
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Posted: 10/24/2010 3:26:36 PM EST
Just a thought but when dealing with some stubborn bolts or nuts. Try tightening,then loosen,,it works,sometimes.
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Posted: 10/24/2010 8:48:45 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/24/2010 8:57:34 PM EST by dntama]
I like the Oly combination wrench as it engages about 3/4 of the teeth of the barrel nut. DPMS and Smith makes a similar tool. I have messed up a few barrel nuts that were really tight using just the 3 prong GI tool.
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Posted: 10/25/2010 8:25:51 AM EST
The freezer trick worked for me. I left it in overnight (12+ hours) and then used a long pipe on the end of the wrench.
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Posted: 10/28/2010 9:13:03 AM EST
UPDATE:

I used the PRI Barrel Nut Wrench and a long breaker bar and was able to get the nut off. Thanks for all of the advice.
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Posted: 10/29/2010 11:16:37 AM EST
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Posted: 10/29/2010 12:01:50 PM EST
Does the PRI work better to overcome the spring in the Delta ring? I nearly broke 2 fingers when my armorers wrench slipped off the barrel nut.
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Posted: 10/29/2010 12:07:16 PM EST
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Nothing in this post should be considered information posted in an official capacity. It is the authors personal opinion alone.
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Posted: 10/29/2010 2:27:29 PM EST
Originally Posted By shadowcop:
Does the PRI work better to overcome the spring in the Delta ring? I nearly broke 2 fingers when my armorers wrench slipped off the barrel nut.


Yes it does, I have had to tap it into place by going around the wrench head with a small ballpeen. Once you compress the delta ring spring it tends to stay compressed.
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Posted: 10/29/2010 5:35:36 PM EST
Originally Posted By psdavi01:
Originally Posted By shadowcop:
Does the PRI work better to overcome the spring in the Delta ring? I nearly broke 2 fingers when my armorers wrench slipped off the barrel nut.


Yes it does, I have had to tap it into place by going around the wrench head with a small ballpeen. Once you compress the delta ring spring it tends to stay compressed.


I had to tap mine on as well. It definitely held back the delta ring spring.

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Posted: 10/29/2010 7:07:46 PM EST
That in itself would make it worth it to me.
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Posted: 10/30/2010 4:02:30 AM EST
Many years ago working heavy construction I was trying to remove a large bolt with a 48" breaker bar. Then a pipe over the breaker bar and still it wouldn't budge. The boss came by to see what I was fighting with and laughed. He said to hit the breaker bar with a hammer. It worked.

I still do that with tight nuts and bolts. A good smack with a hammer on the barrel nut wrench will loosen a tight nut easier than pulling on it with a long bar.
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Posted: 10/30/2010 5:01:23 AM EST
Impact loading does have a place.
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Posted: 10/30/2010 6:47:52 AM EST
Evidently I'm doing something wrong. I have a hard time keeping the wrench on the nut, much less trying to hit it with a hammer. If I have to put much torque on the nut, seems I break teeth off whe the wrench slips.
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Posted: 10/30/2010 7:04:56 AM EST
Originally Posted By OlCrow:
A good smack with a hammer on the barrel nut wrench will loosen a tight nut easier than pulling on it with a long bar.


That's all i've done... press the wrench in w/ one hand and give a hard hit w/ the other..
no breaker bars for take-offs... only for re-installs
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Posted: 10/30/2010 9:43:16 AM EST
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Posted: 10/30/2010 10:38:13 AM EST
I'm afraid I'm on my own. It sounds like you mount your action block vertically, from the "pushing down on the wrench" statement. That's an idea.
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Posted: 10/30/2010 2:20:50 PM EST
Shadowcop, I mount my action block horizontally. The PRI wrench is just tight enough that once you get it on the nut it stays. Like OlCrow says I always give my lever (wrench, breaker bar, whatever) a good whack/tap with a ball peen before I even try to loosen the nut.
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Posted: 10/31/2010 10:53:35 AM EST
just dont do what i did this morning

my new paperweight

if you dont have an upper jig, get one. dont be a lazy shit like me and just pop it into a machinist's vice, then crank away. and this was done with no added leverege. just a cresent wrench on a home made nut wrench. the vice didnt mash it, me turning on it did, and this wasnt even a stubborn barrel. lesson learned; next time take the time to go find the bbl vice

here is another view

oops

i am posting this, not to hijack, but to warn. more torque may not always be the answer, take a look at what you are doing before going overboard with it.
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Posted: 10/31/2010 12:11:10 PM EST
I had to torque mine to 80 lbs. for it to line up. I don't like putting that much torque on it, even though it's still in spec. Only other option would have been taking some off the receiver. I don't like that idea either.
This one just wouldn't line up. If I went snug and to the next notch, I was only at about 35 lbs. But to get to the next notch, I was at 80 lbs.
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