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I am starting a bumpsaw build now after seeing your thread, I have the first important piece, a Barrel, my friend sent me a HBAR colt NM barrel So that parts taken care of, Gonna get a Slidefire from work because i can get them slightly over cost. Have a few extra uppers laying around to barrel it onto, Want to do a unique front handguard and bipod, give it a WW2 look somehow.
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Quoted: I am starting a bumpsaw build now after seeing your thread, I have the first important piece, a Barrel, my friend sent me a HBAR colt NM barrel So that parts taken care of, Gonna get a Slidefire from work because i can get them slightly over cost. Have a few extra uppers laying around to barrel it onto, Want to do a unique front handguard and bipod, give it a WW2 look somehow. View Quote I can't find the pic of the wooden SBR/PDW that's been making the rounds the past couple months, but it had an old school warhorse look to me. |
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I can't find the pic of the wooden SBR/PDW that's been making the rounds the past couple months, but it had an old school warhorse look to me. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I am starting a bumpsaw build now after seeing your thread, I have the first important piece, a Barrel, my friend sent me a HBAR colt NM barrel So that parts taken care of, Gonna get a Slidefire from work because i can get them slightly over cost. Have a few extra uppers laying around to barrel it onto, Want to do a unique front handguard and bipod, give it a WW2 look somehow. I can't find the pic of the wooden SBR/PDW that's been making the rounds the past couple months, but it had an old school warhorse look to me. I've got pic of that gun saved on my computer. I'm thinking some kind of Perforated tube front end/handguard, like a 1919. |
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I've got pic of that gun saved on my computer. I'm thinking some kind of Perforated tube front end/handguard, like a 1919. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I am starting a bumpsaw build now after seeing your thread, I have the first important piece, a Barrel, my friend sent me a HBAR colt NM barrel So that parts taken care of, Gonna get a Slidefire from work because i can get them slightly over cost. Have a few extra uppers laying around to barrel it onto, Want to do a unique front handguard and bipod, give it a WW2 look somehow. I can't find the pic of the wooden SBR/PDW that's been making the rounds the past couple months, but it had an old school warhorse look to me. I've got pic of that gun saved on my computer. I'm thinking some kind of Perforated tube front end/handguard, like a 1919. Well... Post it up? |
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What do I need to know when building one with a 20" HBAR barrel? I've heard they run slow, you need to delay the locktime so you don't get hammer follow? and weight is the enemy when using a Slidefire stock is this correct?
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Weight can be an issue. You will probably want to avoid using a compensator so you have enough recoil to keep it running.
I would avoid any of the heavy rails as they will add extra un-needed weight since you're using an HBAR. Lock time can be an issue, so I would stay away from Geissele unless you want to swap the hammer spring to a light weight spring like the JP yellow. I like to use 7.62x39 firing pins. |
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Weight can be an issue. You will probably want to avoid using a compensator so you have enough recoil to keep it running. I would avoid any of the heavy rails as they will add extra un-needed weight since you're using an HBAR. Lock time can be an issue, so I would stay away from Geissele unless you want to swap the hammer spring to a light weight spring like the JP yellow. I like to use 7.62x39 firing pins. View Quote What about some kind of recoil increasing booster? Its too bad that they say the one for .22 that Slidefire makes wont work on 5.56. |
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What about some kind of recoil increasing booster? Its too bad that they say the one for .22 that Slidefire makes wont work on 5.56. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Weight can be an issue. You will probably want to avoid using a compensator so you have enough recoil to keep it running. I would avoid any of the heavy rails as they will add extra un-needed weight since you're using an HBAR. Lock time can be an issue, so I would stay away from Geissele unless you want to swap the hammer spring to a light weight spring like the JP yellow. I like to use 7.62x39 firing pins. What about some kind of recoil increasing booster? Its too bad that they say the one for .22 that Slidefire makes wont work on 5.56. Pretty sure the consensus is that a bare muzzle with no device produces the most recoil. |
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Pretty sure the consensus is that a bare muzzle with no device produces the most recoil. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Weight can be an issue. You will probably want to avoid using a compensator so you have enough recoil to keep it running. I would avoid any of the heavy rails as they will add extra un-needed weight since you're using an HBAR. Lock time can be an issue, so I would stay away from Geissele unless you want to swap the hammer spring to a light weight spring like the JP yellow. I like to use 7.62x39 firing pins. What about some kind of recoil increasing booster? Its too bad that they say the one for .22 that Slidefire makes wont work on 5.56. Pretty sure the consensus is that a bare muzzle with no device produces the most recoil. Well this Bushmaster heavy barrel my buddy gave me isnt threaded at all, so maximum recoil! :P |
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Well this Bushmaster heavy barrel my buddy gave me isnt threaded at all, so maximum recoil! :P View Quote Nah, got to get it threaded to keep the weight down! No thread cover, though. Seriously, get out and shoot it. Mine works 100% with a pretty heavy 20" and USGI parts, except for the G2S trigger I think (the range is a distant memory this year). Don't go buying fancy stuff unless you need it. |
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Nah, got to get it threaded to keep the weight down! No thread cover, though. Seriously, get out and shoot it. Mine works 100% with a pretty heavy 20" and USGI parts, except for the G2S trigger I think (the range is a distant memory this year). Don't go buying fancy stuff unless you need it. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Well this Bushmaster heavy barrel my buddy gave me isnt threaded at all, so maximum recoil! :P Nah, got to get it threaded to keep the weight down! No thread cover, though. Seriously, get out and shoot it. Mine works 100% with a pretty heavy 20" and USGI parts, except for the G2S trigger I think (the range is a distant memory this year). Don't go buying fancy stuff unless you need it. I want a Fancy handguard that's not from an AR15 to put on it, like the one with the m249 saw handguard. |
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Quoted: Here is my most recent outing. I will say this. I think how hard a trigger breaks has a higher correlation to how many hammer follows it has. I had a very relaxed spring in my gun to start out with and it had no trouble igniting primers. I couldn't get a run of more than 3 rounds out without having hammer follow. I put a stock AR hammer and spring in, and had no issues at all. http://youtu.be/7VWED4qUPMs http://youtu.be/iR_7P0kk7ic View Quote Interesting results. I'm wondering if it's powering through any problems of the carrier being slightly to the rear and igniting the primer anyways. What buffer did you use? I've wondered if the short reset triggers may lend themself to dropping the hammer to early. Now I want to try and open the carrier slightly and try one shot at a time with different triggers to see if some will still ignite them when the carrier is slightly rearward. |
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The ones you see there are both after I swapped out my RRA 2-stage trigger to my stock hammer and spring. I think it is a CMMG trigger IIRC.
Sorry for the late reply. I brought a bunch of hammers thinking I would see how soft I could get it. I went from the one I cut the leg off on, to one that was bent, to one that was stock with the RRA—all of them had decreasing amounts of failures as I added resistance. I decided to go full-on and put the cheap trigger from a different gun in. The gun had maybe one issue with the disconnector still grabbing. I think my finger was in a bad spot, but otherwise it was flawless. It felt good and didn't make it harder to use. I am a believer for now. I was able to rip off rounds form any position—so long as I had my finger in the right spot. I have a really hard trigger I may try next time. I am sure that there is a point of diminishing returns going the other way as well. |
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Were you using both hands on the grip and a thumb on a sling plate to push the rifle forward?
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Has anyone searched for (or found) a muzzle compensator ONLY. Not a brake/compensator that would reduce recoil.
I think that a compensator would help with muzzle control. I've thought about using the AK-74 compensator/brake and removing the front to creat a comp only. |
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Has anyone searched for (or found) a muzzle compensator ONLY. Not a brake/compensator that would reduce recoil. I think that a compensator would help with muzzle control. I've thought about using the AK-74 compensator/brake and removing the front to creat a comp only. View Quote Huh... I thought brakes and comps were the same thing? |
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Quoted: Has anyone searched for (or found) a muzzle compensator ONLY. Not a brake/compensator that would reduce recoil.
I think that a compensator would help with muzzle control. I've thought about using the AK-74 compensator/brake and removing the front to creat a comp only. View Quote Are you thinking of a linear compensator? Like a KAK flash can or the Noveske Flaming Pig? Or the LeVang comp? |
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Are you thinking of a linear compensator? Like a KAK flash can or the Noveske Flaming Pig? Or the LeVang comp? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: Has anyone searched for (or found) a muzzle compensator ONLY. Not a brake/compensator that would reduce recoil.
I think that a compensator would help with muzzle control. I've thought about using the AK-74 compensator/brake and removing the front to creat a comp only. Are you thinking of a linear compensator? Like a KAK flash can or the Noveske Flaming Pig? Or the LeVang comp? Linear compensators don't do a whole lot to reduce muzzle climb. There are quite a few muzzle brakes that will control muzzle climb, but unfortunately they also reduce recoil, some by quite a bit. |
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Mind if I jump in here and ask if anyone is having a problem with their BumpSAWs having muzzle rise in the prone? I know all of mine are fine for elevation; they like to walk laterally though.
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Linear compensators don't do a whole lot to reduce muzzle climb. There are quite a few muzzle brakes that will control muzzle climb, but unfortunately they also reduce recoil, some by quite a bit. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Quoted: Has anyone searched for (or found) a muzzle compensator ONLY. Not a brake/compensator that would reduce recoil.
I think that a compensator would help with muzzle control. I've thought about using the AK-74 compensator/brake and removing the front to creat a comp only. Are you thinking of a linear compensator? Like a KAK flash can or the Noveske Flaming Pig? Or the LeVang comp? Linear compensators don't do a whole lot to reduce muzzle climb. There are quite a few muzzle brakes that will control muzzle climb, but unfortunately they also reduce recoil, some by quite a bit. Screw on KAK flash can, engage Dremel? You're wanting something to direct gasses up, not to the rear. Almost all muzzle brakes on the market today are loudeners, which reduce recoil but make young dudes think they are badasses while going deaf. |
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I'm taking the liberty to post Alaskacajun's pics in this thread. Talk about awesome!... http://i65.tinypic.com/jsbtat.jpg View Quote - Clint |
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I need to load more ammo. I think it's time to start increasing my stockpile before election fears drive prices up. I've got to keep my babies fed
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Limited bursts and cool down time will really save barrel life. It doesn't matter if it's double chrome lined or melonite - if you start dumping betas through it the barrel will quickly be toast. View Quote I know you posted this a year ago, but I am curious as to how hot is too hot to run a barrel. Is 4 x 30 round PMAG dumps over a 10 minute (dump, get up, chat, review footage, change shooters, repeat x 4) too much? |
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I know you posted this a year ago, but I am curious as to how hot is too hot to run a barrel. Is 4 x 30 round PMAG dumps over a 10 minute (dump, get up, chat, review footage, change shooters, repeat x 4) too much? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: Limited bursts and cool down time will really save barrel life. It doesn't matter if it's double chrome lined or melonite - if you start dumping betas through it the barrel will quickly be toast. I know you posted this a year ago, but I am curious as to how hot is too hot to run a barrel. Is 4 x 30 round PMAG dumps over a 10 minute (dump, get up, chat, review footage, change shooters, repeat x 4) too much? You'll know the answer when the accuracy of that bbl goes to hell. How heavy the bbl, what is the lining, etc. Shoot groups before & after each session to gauge erosion. |
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You'll know the answer when the accuracy of that bbl goes to hell. How heavy the bbl, what is the lining, etc. Shoot groups before & after each session to gauge erosion. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Quoted: Limited bursts and cool down time will really save barrel life. It doesn't matter if it's double chrome lined or melonite - if you start dumping betas through it the barrel will quickly be toast. I know you posted this a year ago, but I am curious as to how hot is too hot to run a barrel. Is 4 x 30 round PMAG dumps over a 10 minute (dump, get up, chat, review footage, change shooters, repeat x 4) too much? You'll know the answer when the accuracy of that bbl goes to hell. How heavy the bbl, what is the lining, etc. Shoot groups before & after each session to gauge erosion. Lightweight BCM. From their site : USGI 1/7 Twist Rates USGI 5.56 NATO Chambers Mil-Spec 11595E - Certified Barrel Steel (CMV) Chrome Lined Bore and Chamber Manganese Phosphate Barrel Finish Mil-Spec F-Marked Forged Front Sights USGI Government Profile Barrels HPT (High Pressure Test) Barrels MPI (Magnetic Particle Inspected) Barrels |
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Quoted: You'll know the answer when the accuracy of that bbl goes to hell. How heavy the bbl, what is the lining, etc. Shoot groups before & after each session to gauge erosion. Lightweight BCM. From their site : USGI 1/7 Twist Rates
USGI 5.56 NATO Chambers Mil-Spec 11595E - Certified Barrel Steel (CMV) Chrome Lined Bore and Chamber Manganese Phosphate Barrel Finish Mil-Spec F-Marked Forged Front Sights USGI Government Profile Barrels HPT (High Pressure Test) Barrels MPI (Magnetic Particle Inspected) Barrels The chrome lining will help - the lightweight will hurt. Might consider those JP heat sinks - additional mass, and additional surfaces to radiate heat. But you could destroy any bbl in a single range session if you wanted to. Which might make Stag the most popular bump fire rifle in the long run, if under their new ownership they maintain their bbl warranty. https://www.stagarms.com/warranty-information/ |
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I know you posted this a year ago, but I am curious as to how hot is too hot to run a barrel. Is 4 x 30 round PMAG dumps over a 10 minute (dump, get up, chat, review footage, change shooters, repeat x 4) too much? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Limited bursts and cool down time will really save barrel life. It doesn't matter if it's double chrome lined or melonite - if you start dumping betas through it the barrel will quickly be toast. I know you posted this a year ago, but I am curious as to how hot is too hot to run a barrel. Is 4 x 30 round PMAG dumps over a 10 minute (dump, get up, chat, review footage, change shooters, repeat x 4) too much? |
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Quoted: I know you posted this a year ago, but I am curious as to how hot is too hot to run a barrel. Is 4 x 30 round PMAG dumps over a 10 minute (dump, get up, chat, review footage, change shooters, repeat x 4) too much? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Limited bursts and cool down time will really save barrel life. It doesn't matter if it's double chrome lined or melonite - if you start dumping betas through it the barrel will quickly be toast. I know you posted this a year ago, but I am curious as to how hot is too hot to run a barrel. Is 4 x 30 round PMAG dumps over a 10 minute (dump, get up, chat, review footage, change shooters, repeat x 4) too much? If you fire in 6-9rd bursts it will help quite a bit. |
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I hadn't seen any mention of the recent trigger comparison here. I figured this would be useful information...
Link to the full article |
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sooo shit. The bipod I snagged won't fold under a regular m249 handguard. it's for the railed handguard. son of a biscuit.
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View Quote |
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