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WA, USA
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Posted: 5/10/2024 1:39:50 AM EDT
[#1]
Voltage doesn't mean amperage
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Posted: 5/10/2024 1:46:59 AM EDT
[#2]
Lots of the old eighties fords were like that, the solenoid wouldn’t budge with a weak battery. IIRC you could use a jumper wire to encourage it. It’s probably time for new cables or at least terminals.
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FL, USA
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Posted: 5/10/2024 2:07:47 AM EDT
[#3]
If the battery is good and you have cleaned the battery terminals. Check out the starter relay on your passenger side firewall. Those things were made of a bakelite material and used to crack and fall apart back in the day.
I would swap that battery as well....having volts doesn't mean it can put out the amps to turn it over.  |
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NV, USA
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Posted: 5/10/2024 5:05:01 AM EDT
[#4]
Jam it up into park. The shifter lockout switch is keeping it from starting.
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Posted: 5/10/2024 5:12:39 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PR361: My Ford is dead too…. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/195613/IMG_3936_jpeg-3209990.JPG That’ll buff out. |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 5/10/2024 5:16:00 AM EDT
[#6]
If the battery is 4+ years old its probably dun sun
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FL, USA
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Posted: 5/10/2024 5:43:57 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PR361: My Ford is dead too…. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/195613/IMG_3936_jpeg-3209990.JPG Boat Anchor |
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Posted: 5/10/2024 5:48:44 AM EDT
[#8]
Just drive it to Vatozone and have them check it.
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Posted: 5/10/2024 6:06:43 AM EDT
[#9]
As mentioned, you have to rule out the battery fully. Check voltage with the ignition off and again with it on.
You may have a bad relay. I'm unfamiliar with the specific vehicle, just make sure you tried swapping it with the same part number relay. Sounds like you didn't use the same one. Check grounding. I'm leaning towards a chassis ground being porked up. Or maybe an ignition switch. |
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Posted: 5/10/2024 6:12:54 AM EDT
[#10]
Did you load test the battery? Often they will read well but don’t stand up to a load.
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Posted: 5/10/2024 7:06:36 AM EDT
[#11]
I think I remember ford trucks of that era had an issue where the ground on the firewall on the passenger side would rot away. I can't remember if it's the terminal or the body though.
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Posted: 5/10/2024 7:17:36 AM EDT
[#12]
Did it myself not a mechanic
 2004 Ford F150 Truck Instrument Cluster Removal Procedure by Cluster Fix |
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Posted: 5/10/2024 7:31:06 AM EDT
[#13]
Had a similar problem with a Dodge truck. Turns out the main harness was losing connection with the ECM. Once I thoroughly cleaned all of the connection contact points and applied dielectric grease the truck started functioning again.
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Posted: 5/10/2024 7:33:44 AM EDT
[#14]
Jump start, disconnect negative cable while running, come back with results.
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Posted: 5/10/2024 7:46:22 AM EDT
[#15]
First, put all the relays back into their original position. Then clean the battery terminal cables on both ends. Try to jump start it again. If successful, buy a new battery. You can pull the battery and take it to VatoZone for a load test if you wish. It really sounds like a dead battery or corroded connections, but could be a mystery ailment. Try the easy stuff first.
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Posted: 5/10/2024 7:47:52 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Inbeforethelock: Batteries can read 12v but drop as soon as you put a load on them. Or you could have a bad connection somewhere This what happened with my '99 Positive battery cable to the starter corroded on the inside. |
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Posted: 5/10/2024 9:22:04 AM EDT
[#17]
 Lightning strikes pickup truck in Hutto |
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Posted: 5/10/2024 9:32:42 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By diesel2: Can't say it enough, you need a battery! This , my 2019 Ram delivered July 2019 needed one in March this year . |
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Posted: 5/10/2024 9:32:47 AM EDT
[Last Edit: King_Mud]
[#19]
Me, personally in this scenario before I went any further:
Volt meter on the battery. Volt meter from + battery to vehicle frame. Remove the terminals from the posts and check for ugly underneath. Put a battery tester on the battery once the terminals are off the posts. Lots of batteries will look OK with no load voltage but have near zero output under a load. The last battery I swapped tested at 7 CCA which would barely operate a relay but showed over 12V. |
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Posted: 5/10/2024 9:33:01 AM EDT
[#20]
Ashes to ashes dust to dust. if it wasn't for Ford, our tools would rust. - LS George.
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FL, USA
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Posted: 5/10/2024 10:41:30 AM EDT
[#21]
I vote with those that said clean the battery terminals before doing anything else.
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Posted: 5/10/2024 10:48:49 AM EDT
[#22]
I'm betting on "needs new battery".
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Posted: 5/10/2024 10:52:49 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FloridaMan11b: If the battery is 4+ years old its probably dun sun They don't last that long on a Ford. Battery is always an issue with Fords. My truck is a 19 and it got replaced in 21 after it started acting crazy. |
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Posted: 5/10/2024 11:36:47 AM EDT
[#24]
New battery and check the ground where it bolts to the frame.
You’re welcome. |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 5/10/2024 11:55:32 AM EDT
[#25]
It's page 2 so I can answer. I have a 98 F150 with the 5.4, but its basically the same truck as a 2000 just a slightly different motor. Check the starter relay on the firewall. This generation of fords are notorious for getting bad starter relays You can temporarily connect the 2 large terminals with a pliers or 2 screwdrivers to get the starter to crank. If the solenoid is bad this will help to diagnose.
the next common issue is the shifter. Sometimes one of the safety switches in the shifter gets quirky. Try manually holding the shifter in park, but also lifting it up with about 10lbs of force while you turn the key to crank the motor. If the shifter switch is bad lifting the lever up while cranking will temporarily alleviate that and allow you to start the truck. If that doesn't work then you know to look elsewhere. |
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USA
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Posted: 5/10/2024 11:56:57 AM EDT
[#26]
Fix Or Repair Daily
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KY, USA
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Posted: 5/10/2024 11:59:45 AM EDT
[Last Edit: a390st]
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mr_camera_man: Try a jumper cable from battery negative to a good solid ground point on the block. Maybe you have a weak ground? I've dealt with this on a Ford several times. Check for good ground. ETA: I've had batteries that seemed fine go bad pretty quickly. Ford recalled a bunch of batteries that were defective a number of years ago. The replacements crapped out after fewer years than you would expect, which seems to be more common on Fords. |
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Posted: 5/10/2024 12:09:19 PM EDT
[#28]
Are the battery clamps tight?
If you can mice them at all, then they aren't. I have an issue in my jeep where they become ever so slightly loose, and then nothing works. I've replaced the battery and clamps and it still does it some times 
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USA
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Posted: 5/10/2024 12:17:08 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Taktiq: Yeah I get that, but I've never just had nothing happen. It's like I'm trying to start a block of wood. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Taktiq: Originally Posted By Inbeforethelock: Batteries can read 12v but drop as soon as you put a load on them. Or you could have a bad connection somewhere Yeah I get that, but I've never just had nothing happen. It's like I'm trying to start a block of wood. |
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Posted: 5/10/2024 1:15:49 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Inbeforethelock: Batteries can read 12v but drop as soon as you put a load on them. Or you could have a bad connection somewhere Especially a ground. Connectors like to corrode the wire inside the insulation at the connector and it's hard to see sometimes until you cut into it. |
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GA, USA
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Posted: 5/10/2024 1:30:39 PM EDT
[#31]
Best $50 dollars I ever spent at more Crapa from NAPA.
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NJ, USA
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Posted: 5/10/2024 1:51:56 PM EDT
[#32]
I love car threads. They always entertain me.
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Posted: 5/10/2024 1:58:56 PM EDT
[#33]
Found
Old Relay Dead |
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Posted: 5/10/2024 2:05:15 PM EDT
[#34]
Originally Posted By Taktiq: 2000 Ford F-150 XLT 4.6L V-8 A few days back I found that my truck wouldn't start. So I had it jumped, it started right up and everything was right with the world again. I get home, check the battery and voltage is good. Fast forward to yesterday I put the key in and nothing. So I check the battery again and still reads about 12.4. This time though I hear a faint clicking. Mind you, nothing's on. I track it down to the fuse/relay box under the dash and figure out Relay #2 is just clicking on/off continuously. I find out this supposedly is to the PCM according to the diagrams. I try to switch it around with another relay, nada. In fact, this time I get less than nothing....no crank, no cluster, no dome light, etc nothing. Not even the normal dinging when the door's open and the key's in the ignition. Just silence. Battery still reads 12.4. I have some new relays coming tomorrow and I'll probably go ahead and just replace the battery, but what else. I mean this is a new one for me. Anyone else have any ideas in case the relays and battery don't work? Did you Find it On the Road Dead? I'm a GM man but I love our 2016 F250. Best damn truck I've ever had. I hope you get yours running! |
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NE, USA
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Posted: 5/10/2024 2:14:29 PM EDT
[#35]
Check/clean your ground cable where it attaches to the chassis.
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Posted: 5/10/2024 2:16:44 PM EDT
[#36]
Just went through this EXACT scenario with my '04 F-150. New battery fixed it, even though the battery ready 12.x volts on a meter. It just couldn't carry ANY load.
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Posted: 5/10/2024 2:22:14 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mr_camera_man: Try a jumper cable from battery negative to a good solid ground point on the block. Maybe you have a weak ground? Good idea. |
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USA
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Posted: 5/10/2024 2:51:55 PM EDT
[#38]
Just went through this on my '99 F150, 4.6l.
Battery was dead. Noticed the drivers side floor mat was full of water. Removed cables from battery and charged it. After I started it, the starter solenoid would fire by itself. Shut it off and the radio and blower were running with no key in the ignition switch. Lights and relays clicking too. The windshield had leaked at the top. Traced the problem to the fuse box and the GEM module. The fuse box was wet from the leaking windshield. Spent some time taking the fuse box apart and cleaning it. Had one circuit to repair. Put it all back together and all is good again. Caught it before it fried the GEM module. Still have to get the windshield replaced but keeping it covered for now. |
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Posted: 5/10/2024 3:05:05 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MeInMediocrity: Yes. You need to watch the battery voltage while you crank. If the voltage at the battery posts holds up, you probably have a bad connection. If the voltage at the posts (not the clamps or terminals crimped to the cables) drops, it's probably the battery. It could be both a bad battery and a bad connection. Just had this, I think, anyways. Battery kept going dead enough it wouldn't crank the engine. Jumping it and recharging the battery worked for a while, until one day it died again a day or two after charging. Replaced the battery and still no crank. Checked the terminals and found they were pretty ugly. Cleaned the hell out of them and tried again. Been great every since. |
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TN, USA
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Posted: 5/10/2024 3:18:06 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By zachary78: That Fram filter is what done it in |
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Posted: 5/10/2024 4:22:01 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By arashi: Jam it up into park. The shifter lockout switch is keeping it from starting. Nick |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 5/10/2024 4:27:46 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Nick_Adams: Well, it’s a FORD …. so A 24 years old ford 
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 5/10/2024 4:30:23 PM EDT
[#43]
The main engine ground cable from the block
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Posted: 5/10/2024 4:37:02 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By lowcountry: They don't last that long on a Ford. Battery is always an issue with Fords. My truck is a 19 and it got replaced in 21 after it started acting crazy. In '17. I don't actually know how old it is.  Attached FileLong story short-CLEAN YOUR TERMINALS FIRST if you haven't already done so. Nick |
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Posted: 5/10/2024 4:56:22 PM EDT
[#45]
I had similar problems with a 2012 Kia few years ago. Batteries and alternator was no help. Tracked it down to a bad positive cable. I knew it wasn't the negative because it's attached to the metal of the chassis while positive is attached to buttload of wires in one bundle. Was a costly fix and didn't want to do it so I traded in the car.
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Posted: 5/10/2024 5:00:42 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Nick_Adams: Well, it’s a FORD …. so Laughs in a half dozen Fords that have ran over 300,000 miles with only basic maintenance. |
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Posted: 5/10/2024 5:10:08 PM EDT
[#47]
Should have bought an EV.
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Posted: 5/10/2024 5:12:13 PM EDT
[#48]
These starters nowadays just say no when the voltage drops
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Posted: 5/10/2024 5:36:48 PM EDT
[#49]
Sounds like a bad battery. Reads good but drops dead under load. Had that happen with one of my Nissans once, everything would turn on, but went dark when you tried to start it.
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Posted: 5/10/2024 5:38:45 PM EDT
[#50]
you need a new battery.
check/clean/tighten all connections. |
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