Harbor Freight 90amp Welder? - Page 1

Site Notices

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Harbor Freight 90amp Welder?

Posted: 6/5/2016 4:03:47 PM EDT

I've got no experience with welding but I'd like to get started learning. I figure for $100 this might be something to start out with. No particular task in min but maybe in the future some exhaust work on my car or some other little stuff. From all the reviews and all the vids I've seen on it, it's clearly not meant to connect I-Beams together or do anything heavy with. But for lighter work...seems adequate.

The next step up seems to be 3-4 times the price. So while HF isn't known for quality, seems like it'd fill a niche for beginners.

What's your experience been with it?

Thanks

-Emt1581

Posted: 6/5/2016 4:07:16 PM EDT

[#1]

If you go to youtube.com and type in Harbor freight welder you can get some ideas..

Posted: 6/5/2016 4:08:17 PM EDT

[#2]

It WILL frustrate you.

No power, unstable dirty arc quality, low duty cycle, it sucks.

But if you put in the time and learn to use it, using a good quality miller, lincoln, esab or a ck systematics will feel like your life was touched by the almighty himself.

Posted: 6/5/2016 4:09:55 PM EDT

[#3]

As far as welders go, it's a piece of shit, and makes horrible welds.

That being said, it does work, and is effective enough for fucking around in the garage. And it's not a bad value for the price. And doesn't require 240V, or gas.

It'll be fine for what you want to do.

Oh, and in before everyone else comes along and says unless you spend $5,000 on welding gear you're a failure at life.

Posted: 6/5/2016 4:11:58 PM EDT

[#4]

If you Google "Harbor Freight Welder mods" you should find some sights that show how to add caps and such to make it a little better (not sure which models you can do it with).

Posted: 6/5/2016 4:12:09 PM EDT

[#5]

Just get a cheap Miller or Lincoln for way too many reasons to get into.

Trust me, I weld stuff at a nuclear power plant for a living.

Posted: 6/5/2016 4:15:00 PM EDT

[#6]

Quote History

Quoted:

Just get a cheap Miller or Lincoln for way too many reasons to get into.

Trust me, I weld stuff at a nuclear power plant for a living.

View Quote

I agree with tis guy^^

Id trust a $90 HF welder as much as Id trust a $50 Jennings pistol.

Posted: 6/5/2016 4:15:09 PM EDT

[#7]

A used higher quality welder off Craigslist will serve you better.
Good luck.

Posted: 6/5/2016 4:19:27 PM EDT

[#8]

CL for a Lincoln tombstone stick welder. Too heavy for exhaust work maybe but it will weld stuff that stays together.
Bonus if one found with ac/dc switch. Use fresh rods.

Posted: 6/5/2016 4:37:27 PM EDT

[#9]

Quote History

Quoted:
CL for a Lincoln tombstone stick welder. Too heavy for exhaust work maybe but it will weld stuff that stays together.
Bonus if one found with ac/dc switch. Use fresh rods.

View Quote

CL in NM. Lotsa stuff out there.

Posted: 6/5/2016 4:43:41 PM EDT

[#10]

If you understand its limitations they are a great bargain. First off take the super cheap wire out that it comes with and throw it away, buy some Lincoln FC wire at home depot. get some .30 MP wire (multi pass). The heaviest stuff I weld with it is about 3mm thick and I bevel the joints on a grinder.
Clean between passes with a wire wheel on a drill. I take the nozzle off the end too, its not needed with flux core without gas and only gets in the way in tight spots. Remember too the saying "if its got slag you drag". The biggest downfall with this welder is the lack of heat control, really you only have the wire speed and your own speed. It helps to to preheat areas with a propane torch. I sometimes back joints with copper which helps from blowing through. I also cover areas next to joints with sheet metal or aluminum foil to catch the spatter on things where clean up is needed.
Most of all practice before doing anything that matters. If your are making something out of thick steel then you need to move up to something better.

Posted: 6/5/2016 4:50:37 PM EDT

[#11]

Quote History

Quoted:
If you understand its limitations they are a great bargain. First off take the super cheap wire out that it comes with and throw it away, buy some Lincoln FC wire at home depot. get some .30 MP wire (multi pass). The heaviest stuff I weld with it is about 3mm thick and I bevel the joints on a grinder.

Clean between passes with a wire wheel on a drill. I take the nozzle off the end too, its not needed with flux core without gas and only gets in the way in tight spots. Remember too the saying "if its got slag you drag". The biggest downfall with this welder is the lack of heat control, really you only have the wire speed and your own speed. It helps to to preheat areas with a propane torch. I sometimes back joints with copper which helps from blowing through. I also cover areas next to joints with sheet metal or aluminum foil to catch the spatter on things where clean up is needed.

Most of all practice before doing anything that matters. If your are making something out of thick steel then you need to move up to something better.

View Quote

This is on point.

I got one for some minor repiar. Paid for itself multiple times over.

Yes i burnt it out in a few years. Did many neighbour exhaust. Lots of fence repaire.
A bit of truck bed repair.

And general fuckidy that was worth it....

It is not a professional grade. It is however garage worthy...

Posted: 6/5/2016 4:56:53 PM EDT

[#12]

Quote History

Quoted:
A used higher quality welder off Craigslist will serve you better.
Good luck.

View Quote

This is the correct answer.

I bought a Millermatic 140 for my first welder and my only regret is not splurging and getting the 211 MVP for welding bigger things.

Posted: 6/5/2016 5:01:03 PM EDT

[#13]

If you can weld on a Harbor Freight welder you will be a pro on a Miller.

Posted: 6/5/2016 5:02:08 PM EDT

[#14]

Spend $200 at your local vopro/adult Ed on a welding class before buying the machine.

Posted: 6/5/2016 5:41:02 PM EDT

[#15]

Posted: 6/5/2016 5:50:42 PM EDT

[#16]

It's crap, but I don't need a better welder for more than tacking the metal mesh on my trailer back together or fixing tomato cages.

Don't expect to fix anything critical with it.

I let my kids make beads and use it for lightweight and unimportant jobs only.
Once they realize what a PITA it can be they graduate to something more useful.

Posted: 6/5/2016 5:54:18 PM EDT

[#17]

I'd buy one. 90 amps isn't much, but for $100 just to get started, why not?

Posted: 6/5/2016 5:56:40 PM EDT

[#18]

klutch sti80

I picked up this one from northern tool and has just about paid for itself the 1st job on a trailer. I did a lot of research and for this rookie it does everything I need. I use the 6013 sticks which will weld about anything I need including rusted material. I used a #12 25ft cord and never blew a breaker with the setting all the way up going thru almost 2 lbs. of sticks on a trailer. I got it refurbished for $99 with the $20 coupon and I got another 2 years warranty for $10 more, giving me 3 years total. A must for me was the auto darkening helmet, you will not regret it.

Posted: 6/5/2016 5:59:05 PM EDT

[#19]

Quote History

Quoted:

Just get a cheap Miller or Lincoln for way too many reasons to get into.
.

View Quote

Posted: 6/5/2016 6:02:41 PM EDT

[#20]

If you're just going flux core and cheap, up your budget just a little bit and get a Hobart.

http://www.farmandfleet.com/products/938678-auto-arc-toolmate-100-wire-feed-welder.html?feedsource=3&gclid=CjwKEAjwm8-6BRDgnb-Dk96UmRASJADbMycYVpfoAYsT31gAsmHJe1LEctQpdhO4Uh01JWoTVxcANRoCY_jw_wcB

Posted: 6/5/2016 6:07:56 PM EDT

[#21]

I have one I paid $14 at an auction for it, I overpaid. They are useless as manufactured, they are AC and the flux core process should be DC. I had a rectifier and some large capacitors and rewired mine to be DC electrode negative and its barely ok. This thing has major feed issues now, I can make it work if I lay out the line to the stinger really straight. If you are a good welder you can make this thing run, if you are a beginner it will frustrate you to no end. If you had to buy the rectifier and caps to make it useful you would be in the price range of a Lincoln or Hobart.

Posted: 6/5/2016 6:10:47 PM EDT

[#22]

Quote History

Quoted:
CL for a Lincoln tombstone stick welder. Too heavy for exhaust work maybe but it will weld stuff that stays together.
Bonus if one found with ac/dc switch. Use fresh rods.

View Quote

DC straight with a 1/16 6013 rod welded down hill might do exhaust tubing.

Posted: 6/5/2016 6:15:20 PM EDT

[#23]

I have one.

It works fine for odd jobs.

I pin and welded a couple of muzzle brakes with it and they came out great and did some other small jobs with it.

But I am not a welder and dont know any better.

Although I now have a lincoln that isn't out of the box yet.

Posted: 6/5/2016 6:21:35 PM EDT

[#24]

I had the Harbor freight MIG. I ended up with a Lincoln 140 amp from Home Depot.
The HF MIG wasn't too good.
I use lots of HF stuff, so it's not just the brand.

Posted: 6/5/2016 6:21:59 PM EDT

[#25]

OP, like with anything else on Arfcom, if you ask a question of "I'm thinking of buying XX for $100 for messing around with, is it any good?" you'll be given a flurry of "Unless you buy an $1200 Pro Grade YY, you won't have shit!" responses.

Posted: 6/5/2016 6:43:47 PM EDT

[#26]

I have one. It works okay for non-structural type hobby projects. Never gonna weld bumpers/frames/roll cages with it.

Posted: 6/5/2016 10:03:22 PM EDT

[#27]

Eastwood has some nice welders for cheaper than the top of the line stuff. I have the MIG 175, although I seem to remember paying a lot less than the current price. Maybe I got it on sale.

I too thought about getting the cheap HF welders, and looked at the "mods" people did to make them usable. Figured might as well get a better welder then for the money and effort. Each step of the way someone will tell you that model is crap, spend a few hundred more $$ and get the next model up. If you listen to everybody, eventually you will end up with a $20K professional setup. LOL!