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Posted: 5/1/2016 12:21:36 PM EDT
Or should i just by the standered ones sold buy Auto Zone and O'Reilys?
The dealer wanted $1,200to change all the rotors and pads. No way! Besides I have Duralast Gold Pads on there now, they have a lifetime warranty. |
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[#1]
Some of those autozone pads eat rotors.
I recently found certain rotors to be less material than factory. They're cheap but work for their utility. Nice to have the warranty if you drive a lot. |
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[#2]
Not that I can tell. I have tried all sorts on my Honda as well as on company trucks . I never saw a big difference in any of them.
Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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[#4]
I havent found that big of a difference. Theyre all cast in Mexico now I'm pretty sure.
That being said, I personally try to stay with reputable old brands like Wagner and such. Rotors are so cheap anymore it's almost a waste to turn them unless they've got tons of wearout room left. Shops make a killing off of routine brake jobs. |
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[#5]
Pick up some Bosch rotors from O'Reillys, very high quality and they have a life time warranty.
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[#6]
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[#7]
+1 for Bosch rotors.
If Brembo makes a "plain" rotor (no slots or drilling) for your application, those are my favorite and competitively priced. Wagner thermoquiet pads. |
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[#8]
I work at one of the above stores. Nothing wrong with our pads or rotors, plus with the way we have the warranties set up you can pretty much buy one set and get free replacements as long as you own the truck. I would avoid the basic (around $20) pads though. Goes double for the ValueCrap line!
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[#10]
Quoted:
I havent found that big of a difference. Theyre all cast in Mexico now I'm pretty sure. That being said, I personally try to stay with reputable old brands like Wagner and such. Rotors are so cheap anymore it's almost a waste to turn them unless they've got tons of wearout room left. Shops make a killing off of routine brake jobs. View Quote This. Brakes have to be the highest profit margin gig in automotive. Have to be. |
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[#11]
Rotors are all made in China anymore. Last few I've bought, can't recall brand right off hand, were made there.
It was Raybestos. |
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[#12]
I'll have to give the Bosch a try next time around. I've always paid extra for Wagners or the like.
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[#14]
DBA rotors. If they make them for your car. Lots of people racing swear by them.
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[#15]
Quoted: I have Duralast Gold Pads on there now, they have a lifetime warranty. View Quote The warranty is only against manufactured defects and they will still wear out. If you haven't had any stopping issues the cheap rotors and pads are fine. If you feel you will be towing a lot and want a set or rotors that can handle the heat better then you can go to a site like http://www.partsgeek.com/ and buy the higher end brake pads and rotors. The rear drum brakes on my truck never seem to adjust right on their own and when towing my boat the front rotors over heat which causes "warping". Warping is actually the brake pad material building up on the hot rotor causing slight hump on the pad which creates the vibration. I would get vibration after 15,000 miles on every set of rotors that I put on. The type of pad didn't matter. The research I did said the HAWK brand pads are the best at stopping and handling heat. Hawk makes an LTS pad which stands for light truck. They make another pad for heavier trucks that do even more towing. I also went with a Centric - StopTech Sport Slotted rotor hoping it would run cooler. If you don't have heat issues, wear issues, or plan on doing a lot of towing these would be overkill. The sad part is they would still be cheaper than what the dealer quoted you if you did the work yourself. |
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[#17]
No slight to the mechanics in this forum...but the brake jobs on the kind of cars I drive are pretty easy to do. An occasional cheap custom tool (like a good C-Clamp or something specialized like a Nissan brake piston compressor) can save a lot of headaches and heartaches.
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[#18]
Quoted:
The warranty is only against manufactured defects and they will still wear out. If you haven't had any stopping issues the cheap rotors and pads are fine. If you feel you will be towing a lot and want a set or rotors that can handle the heat better then you can go to a site like http://www.partsgeek.com/ and buy the higher end brake pads and rotors. The rear drum brakes on my truck never seem to adjust right on their own and when towing my boat the front rotors over heat which causes "warping". Warping is actually the brake pad material building up on the hot rotor causing slight hump on the pad which creates the vibration. I would get vibration after 15,000 miles on every set of rotors that I put on. The type of pad didn't matter. The research I did said the HAWK brand pads are the best at stopping and handling heat. Hawk makes an LTS pad which stands for light truck. They make another pad for heavier trucks that do even more towing. I also went with a Centric - StopTech Sport Slotted rotor hoping it would run cooler. If you don't have heat issues, wear issues, or plan on doing a lot of towing these would be overkill. The sad part is they would still be cheaper than what the dealer quoted you if you did the work yourself. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
I have Duralast Gold Pads on there now, they have a lifetime warranty. The warranty is only against manufactured defects and they will still wear out. If you haven't had any stopping issues the cheap rotors and pads are fine. If you feel you will be towing a lot and want a set or rotors that can handle the heat better then you can go to a site like http://www.partsgeek.com/ and buy the higher end brake pads and rotors. The rear drum brakes on my truck never seem to adjust right on their own and when towing my boat the front rotors over heat which causes "warping". Warping is actually the brake pad material building up on the hot rotor causing slight hump on the pad which creates the vibration. I would get vibration after 15,000 miles on every set of rotors that I put on. The type of pad didn't matter. The research I did said the HAWK brand pads are the best at stopping and handling heat. Hawk makes an LTS pad which stands for light truck. They make another pad for heavier trucks that do even more towing. I also went with a Centric - StopTech Sport Slotted rotor hoping it would run cooler. If you don't have heat issues, wear issues, or plan on doing a lot of towing these would be overkill. The sad part is they would still be cheaper than what the dealer quoted you if you did the work yourself. If the Stop-Tech rotors give you trouble, you might want to check out FrozenRotors.com. They sell cryogenically frozen rotors and they're without a doubt the best thing since sliced bread. I know it sounds gimmicky, but a buddy of mine bought a set for his wife's explorer about 5 years ago and they're still on the car. She's so hard on brakes that he'd been through five sets of Wagner, EIS and Raybestos rotors prior to buying these. Worth checking out... |
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[#19]
Quoted:
Rotors are all made in China anymore. Last few I've bought, can't recall brand right off hand, were made there. It was Raybestos. View Quote My experience too. All Chinese pot metal shit. It's no longer worth it to replace them vs turn them. It used to be cost effective to just replace them, not anymore. Also, if you're replacing rotors after four years something is wrong with what you're doing. Riding brake or letting pads go to the backing. |
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[#20]
Quoted:
Pick up some Bosch rotors from O'Reillys, very high quality and they have a life time warranty. View Quote Looking at your avatar reminded me that Amazon sells a Callahan brand that I installed on a few cars. Haven't noticed any ill effects and decent pricing. Not made in Ohio of course. |
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[#21]
The EBC coated rotors seem to last a long time + they are made in England not China.
Akebono Pro-Act pads are a good compromise between wear/dust/stopping power. |
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[#22]
Unless you are pulsing there is probably nothing wrong with the brake rotors.
Unless you are grinding I suspect there isn't any emergency for the brakes. Up-sells are the name of the game at dealerships. Unless you have the above problems I would at most toss a set of brake pads on it and roll. ASE Master mechanic btw... |
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[#23]
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[#24]
Quoted:
I work at one of the above stores. Nothing wrong with our pads or rotors, plus with the way we have the warranties set up you can pretty much buy one set and get free replacements as long as you own the truck. I would avoid the basic (around $20) pads though. Goes double for the ValueCrap line! View Quote Whats weird is the Duralast gold pads dont seem to last all that long, maybe its because the rotors are not smooth anymore? |
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[#25]
Bosche, Napa, Centric or OEM for rotors. In no particular order.
I've NEVER been pleased with ANY pads or rotors from the house brands of AA or AZ. |
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[#26]
Go to RockAuto and purchase. You'll have more than one selection to choose from at various prices.
If you need them overnite, they can do that also. I used RA for some tuneup parts on my Wife's ZR2 Blazer and I saved about $100 compared to local stores and had parts in hand by 3 days going their regular mailing. These were top notch parts also that you don't have a choice from local stores. RA also has lifetime warranty on many of their parts just like local stores. Just save receipt/printout of proof. |
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[#27]
Quoted:
Get a Powerstop kit from Rock Auto and call it a day. View Quote This x10 I do my own brakes, always have, hand fit the pads to caliper rails so they don't bind and slide like they should. Last time I needed brakes I got the Powerstop kit for my truck (medium kit, not top performance one) and its the best brakes it's ever had. 2002 GMC 2500HD Seriously - try the kit ... Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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[#28]
I've had good luck with autoanything. They're offering free shipping on a lot of the rotor/pad kits right now.
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[#29]
Quoted:
My experience too. All Chinese pot metal shit. It's no longer worth it to replace them vs turn them. It used to be cost effective to just replace them, not anymore. Also, if you're replacing rotors after four years something is wrong with what you're doing. Riding brake or letting pads go to the backing. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Rotors are all made in China anymore. Last few I've bought, can't recall brand right off hand, were made there. It was Raybestos. My experience too. All Chinese pot metal shit. It's no longer worth it to replace them vs turn them. It used to be cost effective to just replace them, not anymore. Also, if you're replacing rotors after four years something is wrong with what you're doing. Riding brake or letting pads go to the backing. 90,000 miles and once i did grind metal on metal. |
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[#30]
Quoted:
This x10 I do my own brakes, always have, hand fit the pads to caliper rails so they don't bind and slide like they should. Last time I needed brakes I got the Powerstop kit for my truck (medium kit, not top performance one) and its the best brakes it's ever had. 2002 GMC 2500HD Seriously - try the kit ... Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Get a Powerstop kit from Rock Auto and call it a day. This x10 I do my own brakes, always have, hand fit the pads to caliper rails so they don't bind and slide like they should. Last time I needed brakes I got the Powerstop kit for my truck (medium kit, not top performance one) and its the best brakes it's ever had. 2002 GMC 2500HD Seriously - try the kit ... Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile I do tow a trailer with a UTV up to the mountains alot in the summer. Maybe i should go with the heavy duty ones? I see they require a core exchange for a lower cost, do they pay the shipping back on the core? |
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[#32]
Quoted:
I do tow a trailer with a UTV up to the mountains alot in the summer. Maybe i should go with the heavy duty ones? I see they require a core exchange for a lower cost, do they pay the shipping back on the core? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Get a Powerstop kit from Rock Auto and call it a day. This x10 I do my own brakes, always have, hand fit the pads to caliper rails so they don't bind and slide like they should. Last time I needed brakes I got the Powerstop kit for my truck (medium kit, not top performance one) and its the best brakes it's ever had. 2002 GMC 2500HD Seriously - try the kit ... Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile I do tow a trailer with a UTV up to the mountains alot in the summer. Maybe i should go with the heavy duty ones? I see they require a core exchange for a lower cost, do they pay the shipping back on the core? I didn't feel the extra $$$ for the drilled rotors was worth it and some review I'd read seemed to agree. You're call though. Looking at their site now, I may have even got the base kit, I'll check and confirm. I didn't send any parts back, actually didn't even realize there was a core charge, maybe that's new?? Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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[#34]
I use Napa ultra premium rotors and adaptive one pads with good results. Zero brake dust and they last.
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[#35]
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[#36]
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[#37]
Quoted:
Rotors are all made in China anymore. Last few I've bought, can't recall brand right off hand, were made there. It was Raybestos. View Quote Not all rotors. There is a foundry about 50 miles from me that makes rotors. Their claim to fame is that they don't rush the castings from foundry to machining like the Chinese manufacturers do. They still allow their casting to cool for 30 days after casting before machining to allow the crystalline structure of the rotors to set properly. It isn't uncommon to see racks of 2 week old castings outside on a snowy day without a single snowflake on them because they're still warm enough after casting to melt any snow that gets on them. In China 2 week old castings would already be machined, boxed and on their way to a customer. Those are rotors that are prone to warping when they get hot under heavy braking. |
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[#38]
Yep. EBC rotors and use their yellow pads. |
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[#39]
Quoted:
Not all rotors. There is a foundry about 50 miles from me that makes rotors. Their claim to fame is that they don't rush the castings from foundry to machining like the Chinese manufacturers do. They still allow their casting to cool for 30 days after casting before machining to allow the crystalline structure of the rotors to set properly. It isn't uncommon to see racks of 2 week old castings outside on a snowy day without a single snowflake on them because they're still warm enough after casting to melt any snow that gets on them. In China 2 week old castings would already be machined, boxed and on their way to a customer. Those are rotors that are prone to warping when they get hot under heavy braking. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Rotors are all made in China anymore. Last few I've bought, can't recall brand right off hand, were made there. It was Raybestos. Not all rotors. There is a foundry about 50 miles from me that makes rotors. Their claim to fame is that they don't rush the castings from foundry to machining like the Chinese manufacturers do. They still allow their casting to cool for 30 days after casting before machining to allow the crystalline structure of the rotors to set properly. It isn't uncommon to see racks of 2 week old castings outside on a snowy day without a single snowflake on them because they're still warm enough after casting to melt any snow that gets on them. In China 2 week old castings would already be machined, boxed and on their way to a customer. Those are rotors that are prone to warping when they get hot under heavy braking. What brand name rotors? Skinny rotors or Mogadishu specials,LOL. |
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[#40]
Quoted:
This. Brakes have to be the highest profit margin gig in automotive. Have to be. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
I havent found that big of a difference. Theyre all cast in Mexico now I'm pretty sure. That being said, I personally try to stay with reputable old brands like Wagner and such. Rotors are so cheap anymore it's almost a waste to turn them unless they've got tons of wearout room left. Shops make a killing off of routine brake jobs. This. Brakes have to be the highest profit margin gig in automotive. Have to be. I did the pads on my car, all 4 of them, in under an hour. I was pretty impressed with myself. |
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[#41]
Quoted:
What brand name rotors? Skinny rotors or Mogadishu specials,LOL. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Rotors are all made in China anymore. Last few I've bought, can't recall brand right off hand, were made there. It was Raybestos. Not all rotors. There is a foundry about 50 miles from me that makes rotors. Their claim to fame is that they don't rush the castings from foundry to machining like the Chinese manufacturers do. They still allow their casting to cool for 30 days after casting before machining to allow the crystalline structure of the rotors to set properly. It isn't uncommon to see racks of 2 week old castings outside on a snowy day without a single snowflake on them because they're still warm enough after casting to melt any snow that gets on them. In China 2 week old castings would already be machined, boxed and on their way to a customer. Those are rotors that are prone to warping when they get hot under heavy braking. What brand name rotors? Skinny rotors or Mogadishu specials,LOL. |
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[#42]
Long ago I got expensive Praise Dyno rotors. They cost a lot but lasted about 10 years.
Now I go to tirerack.com and read the reviews for best pads and rotors for my vehicles. |
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[#43]
Brembo blanks and oem or thermoquiets or stoptechs are supposed to be good. Look up how to bed in new brakes after youre done.
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[#44]
Quoted:
This x10 I do my own brakes, always have, hand fit the pads to caliper rails so they don't bind and slide like they should. Last time I needed brakes I got the Powerstop kit for my truck (medium kit, not top performance one) and its the best brakes it's ever had. 2002 GMC 2500HD Seriously - try the kit ... Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Get a Powerstop kit from Rock Auto and call it a day. This x10 I do my own brakes, always have, hand fit the pads to caliper rails so they don't bind and slide like they should. Last time I needed brakes I got the Powerstop kit for my truck (medium kit, not top performance one) and its the best brakes it's ever had. 2002 GMC 2500HD Seriously - try the kit ... Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile After a set of NAPA "Adaptive One" pads warped my OEM rotors in North Carolina mountains - the Powestop kits are the only thing I've used. Highly recommend. |
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[#45]
http://www.frozenrotors.com/
I bought slotted version these for my truck. The slot is the minimum rotor thickness. 76K miles later no warping at all. They are cryogenically treated to prevent warping. About time to change my pads, but won't have to change the rotor. Just gonna have the rotors turned. Not cheap, but I also didn't pay the dealer $1200 to do it. |
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[#46]
Quoted:
I didn't feel the extra $$$ for the drilled rotors was worth it and some review I'd read seemed to agree. You're call though. Looking at their site now, I may have even got the base kit, I'll check and confirm. I didn't send any parts back, actually didn't even realize there was a core charge, maybe that's new?? Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Get a Powerstop kit from Rock Auto and call it a day. This x10 I do my own brakes, always have, hand fit the pads to caliper rails so they don't bind and slide like they should. Last time I needed brakes I got the Powerstop kit for my truck (medium kit, not top performance one) and its the best brakes it's ever had. 2002 GMC 2500HD Seriously - try the kit ... Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile I do tow a trailer with a UTV up to the mountains alot in the summer. Maybe i should go with the heavy duty ones? I see they require a core exchange for a lower cost, do they pay the shipping back on the core? I didn't feel the extra $$$ for the drilled rotors was worth it and some review I'd read seemed to agree. You're call though. Looking at their site now, I may have even got the base kit, I'll check and confirm. I didn't send any parts back, actually didn't even realize there was a core charge, maybe that's new?? Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile So I just double checked and I got the following: '03 GMC 1/2-ton Yukon Powerstop KOE2015 kit $183.79 '02 GMC 2500HD Powerstop KOE2073 $224.79 These are the middle kit and named "Performance" on rock autos site. I also see the price has increased considerably. I bought mine in July of '15. ... Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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