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Posted: 11/27/2015 11:24:17 PM EDT
[#1]
This is what you seek.
http://www.timberlinesharpener.com/ |
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Posted: 11/27/2015 11:59:22 PM EDT
[#2]
garbage works so so. Makes a dull chain not so dull. Sell you mine for $15. Take it back. Did work on a chain I was cutting lumber with nails.
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Posted: 11/28/2015 12:07:54 AM EDT
[#3]
Mine works fine. Like anything else, there's a little learning curve, but it does a great job on rocked chain or in my case fenced chains cutting brush from fence lines.
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Posted: 11/28/2015 12:19:52 AM EDT
[#4]
I bought one last time they went on sale. It's cheap and it kinda works... I use it if I rock a chain or something, hand file otherwise.
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Posted: 11/28/2015 8:44:31 AM EDT
[#5]
Depends. I have this one. It works well enough once you get the hang of it's quirks. The motor has no torque, so you're not going to hog on the teeth. OTOH, you won't be turning them blue either. 
I don't sharpen enough chains to get an expensive one. http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-chain-saw-sharpener-61613.html |
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Posted: 11/28/2015 8:48:22 AM EDT
[#6]
I bought one for my father years ago, it works great for the little use he puts it thru.
But if you, if you use your chainsaw for a living, I would get a better unit for sure. |
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Posted: 11/28/2015 8:52:36 AM EDT
[#7]
Just sharpened 8 chains yesterday on mine. It works great. Gets them sharper than any hand file. Very easy to learn how to use it right. I love mine and it has paid for itself many times over.
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Posted: 11/28/2015 9:02:02 AM EDT
[#8]
No they are not very good. I dont think its the tools fault. I think its the abrasive wheel is garbage. I looked at a pro sharpener and it had a carbide wheel. It might work better with a a better wheel. Good luck on it. It took me a long time to get hand filing down.
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Posted: 11/28/2015 12:10:49 PM EDT
[#9]
Have one used it extensively last year. It's ok, good for people like myself that aren't very good with a hand file keeping things consistent. For me it's just a time/money saver so I don't have to take them to the shop to get them sharpened where sometimes they come back worse than before. I find the sharpenings don't seem to last as long and I am doing them more frequently. If I was going to to it over again Northern tool has a 99 dollar unit that I would look hard at instead.
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Posted: 11/28/2015 12:14:32 PM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
Do they work worth a shit? Hold up decently? Any other input? I picked one up about 10 years ago. Wait until they are really cheap if you do buy one. Sometimes they show up for about $30. I just recently replaced my first one after about 6 years. It sharpens my chains. I'm no pro, so it is sufficient for my uses. I was bringing in a triaxle of logs for the winter but recently installed propane and have cut back on the wood. |
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Posted: 11/28/2015 12:17:33 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Have one used it extensively last year. It's ok, good for people like myself that aren't very good with a hand file keeping things consistent. For me it's just a time/money saver so I don't have to take them to the shop to get them sharpened where sometimes they come back worse than before. I find the sharpenings don't seem to last as long and I am doing them more frequently. If I was going to to it over again Northern tool has a 99 dollar unit that I would look hard at instead. I've read it's the angle you sharpen at that determines how long it takes to dull. That and keeping it out of the dirt. I don't recall where I read it but one angle doesn't sharpen as well but it lasts longer and another angle makes it real sharp but it doesn't last long. |
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Posted: 11/28/2015 12:33:12 PM EDT
[#12]
Clamp the bar in a vise and go to town on it with a file guide.
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/accessories/filing-tools/fileguide/ Takes up a lot less space and works just fine for occasional use. No need to take the chain off the saw either, that's worth something. |
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Posted: 11/28/2015 4:51:09 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've read it's the angle you sharpen at that determines how long it takes to dull. That and keeping it out of the dirt. I don't recall where I read it but one angle doesn't sharpen as well but it lasts longer and another angle makes it real sharp but it doesn't last long. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Have one used it extensively last year. It's ok, good for people like myself that aren't very good with a hand file keeping things consistent. For me it's just a time/money saver so I don't have to take them to the shop to get them sharpened where sometimes they come back worse than before. I find the sharpenings don't seem to last as long and I am doing them more frequently. If I was going to to it over again Northern tool has a 99 dollar unit that I would look hard at instead. I've read it's the angle you sharpen at that determines how long it takes to dull. That and keeping it out of the dirt. I don't recall where I read it but one angle doesn't sharpen as well but it lasts longer and another angle makes it real sharp but it doesn't last long. Had the boxes the chains came in and they had the original sharpening angle on the box. Would rather have a chain that cuts well even if I have to do it more often. This was hardwood firewood. Also remember that the HF one has a 1/4 disc on it which is not appropriate for all chains (3/8ths only?). I picked up 3/16 and 1/8 from Menards for other chains (i have .325),I would also look at the grinder Menards has, basically the same as the Northern Tool one. |
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Posted: 11/28/2015 4:53:09 PM EDT
[#14]
The boss at a place I used to work picked up something similar once, didn't set the stop on it and cut the first chain he tried right in half. It was funny shit.
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Posted: 11/28/2015 4:57:09 PM EDT
[#15]
I picked one up on sale earlier this year and it gets my chains sharper than I've ever been able to by hand. Admittedly I suck at sharpening chains but I've dropped 5 trees in the last 2 days and I'd say it was money well spent.
Do yourself a favor and watch a couple yew toob vids. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHP-6zzcsmE |
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Posted: 11/28/2015 5:24:50 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This is what you seek. http://www.timberlinesharpener.com/ Get the Northern catalogs electric knockoff sharpener. Its a copy of Oregon's sharpener. |
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Posted: 11/28/2015 5:28:03 PM EDT
[#17]
I paid almost $200 for the frigging Oregon and it is not significantly better built than the HF one. These days chains (Stihl brand, at the dealer) have gotten so cheap it's more useful for me to simply drop them off on Monday, pick them up later in the week, and get back to cutting the following weekend--for $5 a chain. Replace for $20-25 (depends on length of bar) as needed. MUCH less time consuming than sharpening myself.
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Posted: 11/28/2015 5:33:30 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I paid almost $200 for the frigging Oregon and it is not significantly better built than the HF one. These days chains (Stihl brand, at the dealer) have gotten so cheap it's more useful for me to simply drop them off on Monday, pick them up later in the week, and get back to cutting the following weekend--for $5 a chain. Replace for $20-25 (depends on length of bar) as needed. MUCH less time consuming than sharpening myself. 
If you have the sharpened set up right it should only take a couple minutes per chain. |
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Posted: 11/28/2015 5:40:13 PM EDT
[#19]
I have one, and it is good for the occasional user that understands the limit of the tool.
It is plastic and flexible, so you have to take extra care to keep the angles and spacing even. |
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Posted: 11/28/2015 5:42:08 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you have the sharpened set up right it should only take a couple minutes per chain. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I paid almost $200 for the frigging Oregon and it is not significantly better built than the HF one. These days chains (Stihl brand, at the dealer) have gotten so cheap it's more useful for me to simply drop them off on Monday, pick them up later in the week, and get back to cutting the following weekend--for $5 a chain. Replace for $20-25 (depends on length of bar) as needed. MUCH less time consuming than sharpening myself.
If you have the sharpened set up right it should only take a couple minutes per chain. It takes much longer than that to get it set up properly. I'm not saying they don't work--I'm just saying it's not worth my time, same as filing. Thirty years ago chains were ~$35-40 each. THEN it was worth more time. Today, no way. YMMV. |
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Posted: 11/28/2015 5:46:53 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It takes much longer than that to get it set up properly. I'm not saying they don't work--I'm just saying it's not worth my time, same as filing. Thirty years ago chains were ~$35-40 each. THEN it was worth more time. Today, no way. YMMV. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I paid almost $200 for the frigging Oregon and it is not significantly better built than the HF one. These days chains (Stihl brand, at the dealer) have gotten so cheap it's more useful for me to simply drop them off on Monday, pick them up later in the week, and get back to cutting the following weekend--for $5 a chain. Replace for $20-25 (depends on length of bar) as needed. MUCH less time consuming than sharpening myself.
If you have the sharpened set up right it should only take a couple minutes per chain. It takes much longer than that to get it set up properly. I'm not saying they don't work--I'm just saying it's not worth my time, same as filing. Thirty years ago chains were ~$35-40 each. THEN it was worth more time. Today, no way. YMMV. I keep mine set up to sharpen my 20" chains I use the most. My smaller saw I hand file still. My sharpener stays permanently mounted to a bench in the garage |
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Posted: 11/28/2015 5:52:59 PM EDT
[#22]
Just buy the Dremel attachment. Cheap, effective, fast, and easy to use.
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Posted: 11/28/2015 5:55:31 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you have the sharpened set up right it should only take a couple minutes per chain. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I paid almost $200 for the frigging Oregon and it is not significantly better built than the HF one. These days chains (Stihl brand, at the dealer) have gotten so cheap it's more useful for me to simply drop them off on Monday, pick them up later in the week, and get back to cutting the following weekend--for $5 a chain. Replace for $20-25 (depends on length of bar) as needed. MUCH less time consuming than sharpening myself.
If you have the sharpened set up right it should only take a couple minutes per chain. Yep, it should only take a few minutes for a 20" chain. It takes a lot longer to drive to the store to buy a new chain or have one sharpened by someone else. |
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Posted: 11/28/2015 8:28:11 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Just buy the Dremel attachment. Cheap, effective, fast, and easy to use. |
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Posted: 11/29/2015 5:47:47 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
And takes the hardness right out of the chain. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Just buy the Dremel attachment. Cheap, effective, fast, and easy to use. And takes the hardness right out of the chain. You can't be serious. Where do people get this garbage? I get equal life out of my Dremel-sharpened chains as I do from factory chains. If your chain was ridiculously dull and you sat there grinding on one spot so long that it turned the metal red, that would happen with ANY powered sharpening tool. If you want an "idiot proof" sharpening device, it does not exist. Try using some common sense instead. |
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Posted: 11/29/2015 5:51:29 AM EDT
[#26]
I bought a sharpener off ebay. I can't remember the brand but it was the same company that makes the Oregon ones. Paid around 200$ for it. So far so good.
We have the hf one at work. It's a pos. |
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Posted: 11/29/2015 7:07:38 AM EDT
[#27]
I can't speak personally on the HF model, but I will say.....The main thing is not just the tool, but your knowledge of how to properly run it on a chain. I see people destroy chains and blades on mowers and tractory etc. because they don't know the proper angles, pressure to apply, etc. Some people just want to GRIND the shit out of things thinking thats will make it the sharpest. Technique is what it is going to come down to. I have a landscape company and still prefer hand filing chains.
Im sure the HF chain sharpener will work fine for you as long as you use it properly........HAVE A LIGHT HAND! and good luck.  |
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Posted: 11/29/2015 7:17:29 AM EDT
[#28]
My dad uses his quite a bit and it works good for what it is. Quite a bit meaning maybe twice a year.
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Posted: 11/29/2015 11:18:31 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You can't be serious. Where do people get this garbage? I get equal life out of my Dremel-sharpened chains as I do from factory chains. If your chain was ridiculously dull and you sat there grinding on one spot so long that it turned the metal red, that would happen with ANY powered sharpening tool. If you want an "idiot proof" sharpening device, it does not exist. Try using some common sense instead. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Just buy the Dremel attachment. Cheap, effective, fast, and easy to use. And takes the hardness right out of the chain. You can't be serious. Where do people get this garbage? I get equal life out of my Dremel-sharpened chains as I do from factory chains. If your chain was ridiculously dull and you sat there grinding on one spot so long that it turned the metal red, that would happen with ANY powered sharpening tool. If you want an "idiot proof" sharpening device, it does not exist. Try using some common sense instead. Im a Toolmaker with years of grinding and heat treating experience. You have failed. |
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Posted: 11/29/2015 11:34:55 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I paid almost $200 for the frigging Oregon and it is not significantly better built than the HF one. These days chains (Stihl brand, at the dealer) have gotten so cheap it's more useful for me to simply drop them off on Monday, pick them up later in the week, and get back to cutting the following weekend--for $5 a chain. Replace for $20-25 (depends on length of bar) as needed. MUCH less time consuming than sharpening myself. What a ripoff. We sharpen them in the field on wildfires...several times a day. Sharpening with a file can be quick with a little practice. I can't imagine that taking the chain off the saw would speed up the process any for me. |
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Posted: 11/29/2015 11:57:57 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What a ripoff. We sharpen them in the field on wildfires...several times a day. Sharpening with a file can be quick with a little practice. I can't imagine that taking the chain off the saw would speed up the process any for me. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I paid almost $200 for the frigging Oregon and it is not significantly better built than the HF one. These days chains (Stihl brand, at the dealer) have gotten so cheap it's more useful for me to simply drop them off on Monday, pick them up later in the week, and get back to cutting the following weekend--for $5 a chain. Replace for $20-25 (depends on length of bar) as needed. MUCH less time consuming than sharpening myself. What a ripoff. We sharpen them in the field on wildfires...several times a day. Sharpening with a file can be quick with a little practice. I can't imagine that taking the chain off the saw would speed up the process any for me. +1 |
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Posted: 11/29/2015 12:42:36 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What a ripoff. We sharpen them in the field on wildfires...several times a day. Sharpening with a file can be quick with a little practice. I can't imagine that taking the chain off the saw would speed up the process any for me. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I paid almost $200 for the frigging Oregon and it is not significantly better built than the HF one. These days chains (Stihl brand, at the dealer) have gotten so cheap it's more useful for me to simply drop them off on Monday, pick them up later in the week, and get back to cutting the following weekend--for $5 a chain. Replace for $20-25 (depends on length of bar) as needed. MUCH less time consuming than sharpening myself. What a ripoff. We sharpen them in the field on wildfires...several times a day. Sharpening with a file can be quick with a little practice. I can't imagine that taking the chain off the saw would speed up the process any for me. I usually sharpen at the end of the day so I'm sharpening a few chains at a time. And I always take the bar off at the end of the day to clean the saw. I will still usually do a quick hand file in the field with every gas refill though. |
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Posted: 11/29/2015 10:04:57 PM EDT
[#33]
Thanks gents! Maybe I should just suck it up and learn to file 'em
 
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Posted: 11/29/2015 10:12:35 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Im a Toolmaker with years of grinding and heat treating experience. You have failed. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Just buy the Dremel attachment. Cheap, effective, fast, and easy to use. And takes the hardness right out of the chain. You can't be serious. Where do people get this garbage? I get equal life out of my Dremel-sharpened chains as I do from factory chains. If your chain was ridiculously dull and you sat there grinding on one spot so long that it turned the metal red, that would happen with ANY powered sharpening tool. If you want an "idiot proof" sharpening device, it does not exist. Try using some common sense instead. Im a Toolmaker with years of grinding and heat treating experience. You have failed. I have been using the Dremel kit for 25 years, and my sharpened chains last at least as long as new ones! You might be a toolmaker, but you have obviously never used the Dremel sharpener. You are wrong, period. |
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Posted: 11/29/2015 10:25:46 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
And takes the hardness right out of the chain. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Just buy the Dremel attachment. Cheap, effective, fast, and easy to use. Yep, ruined my chains, didn't know any better, saws wouldn't cut worth a shit after. Well, they cut like crazy for a little while (throwing big curly shavings), then when it dulls in 20 minutes you waste a lot of energy pushing the saw, rocking it, etc. I'll sharpen by hand until I find something better, but paying attention to this thread. Wife got me my first Stihl for my Bday in October and it runs like a scalded cat, better than any saw I've used. Don't want to ruin it. |
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Posted: 11/29/2015 10:28:08 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks gents! Maybe I should just suck it up and learn to file 'em I do both, by the way. If you can touch up at refueling with a file, I prefer that. I have the HF sharpener for damaged chains, and realize it's limitations. For the price you can't go wrong. |
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Posted: 11/29/2015 10:35:42 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yep, ruined my chains, didn't know any better, saws wouldn't cut worth a shit after. I'll sharpen by hand until I find something better, but paying attention to this thread. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Just buy the Dremel attachment. Cheap, effective, fast, and easy to use. Yep, ruined my chains, didn't know any better, saws wouldn't cut worth a shit after. I'll sharpen by hand until I find something better, but paying attention to this thread. It won't ruin your chain if you do it properly! I've been doing it for 25 years, and it has never ruined a chain. But you need to grind lightly and don't overheat the metal. That is true with EVERY powered chain saw sharpener. If that is too difficult, then the only tool that will work for you is a hand file. You also need to set it up correctly for it to work properly (particularly the spacing between the guide and the stone), and use the correct size stone for your size of chain, or it won't work. It does come with directions. 
It sounds like you either overheated the metal with poor technique, or had your angle wrong, or used the wrong size stone. I repeat: it works great when done correctly. 25 years! |
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Posted: 11/29/2015 10:43:13 PM EDT
[#38]
Granburg is what you seek.
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Posted: 11/29/2015 10:45:49 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What a ripoff. We sharpen them in the field on wildfires...several times a day. Sharpening with a file can be quick with a little practice. I can't imagine that taking the chain off the saw would speed up the process any for me. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I paid almost $200 for the frigging Oregon and it is not significantly better built than the HF one. These days chains (Stihl brand, at the dealer) have gotten so cheap it's more useful for me to simply drop them off on Monday, pick them up later in the week, and get back to cutting the following weekend--for $5 a chain. Replace for $20-25 (depends on length of bar) as needed. MUCH less time consuming than sharpening myself. What a ripoff. We sharpen them in the field on wildfires...several times a day. Sharpening with a file can be quick with a little practice. I can't imagine that taking the chain off the saw would speed up the process any for me. Yup. Slap it in a stump vise and get to work. 
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Posted: 11/30/2015 12:24:46 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It won't ruin your chain if you do it properly! I've been doing it for 25 years, and it has never ruined a chain. But you need to grind lightly and don't overheat the metal. That is true with EVERY powered chain saw sharpener. If that is too difficult, then the only tool that will work for you is a hand file. You also need to set it up correctly for it to work properly (particularly the spacing between the guide and the stone), and use the correct size stone for your size of chain, or it won't work. It does come with directions. It sounds like you either overheated the metal with poor technique, or had your angle wrong, or used the wrong size stone. I repeat: it works great when done correctly. 25 years! Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Just buy the Dremel attachment. Cheap, effective, fast, and easy to use. Yep, ruined my chains, didn't know any better, saws wouldn't cut worth a shit after. I'll sharpen by hand until I find something better, but paying attention to this thread. It won't ruin your chain if you do it properly! I've been doing it for 25 years, and it has never ruined a chain. But you need to grind lightly and don't overheat the metal. That is true with EVERY powered chain saw sharpener. If that is too difficult, then the only tool that will work for you is a hand file. You also need to set it up correctly for it to work properly (particularly the spacing between the guide and the stone), and use the correct size stone for your size of chain, or it won't work. It does come with directions. It sounds like you either overheated the metal with poor technique, or had your angle wrong, or used the wrong size stone. I repeat: it works great when done correctly. 25 years! Thou doth protest too much.  How do you measure the set of your rakers? Oh, a little off here a little off there......... No wonder your chains dont get dull, they probably dont even cut! I mean hell, you spent 25yrs doing the slowest sharpening jobs in the history of man.Indicators suggest you might not be the sharpest chain on the wall.
Grandbergs as mentioned are an excellent way to sharpen. I made up a kit with an old metal tackle box that fits the G-burg and holds 4 different size files. That is something you need to set up, but when setup right will make a chain like new better than new. |
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