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Posted: 5/21/2015 3:48:35 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No smog on diesels upstate. Will a scangauge monitor those temps? Or do I need independent gauges? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Get something to monitor your coolant temp and oil temp. If you are within 10 degrees while cruising on the highway your oil cooler is working well. It isn't mandatory to change the oil cooler if there are no problems. Also monitor your FICM voltage on startup, if it is dropping below 45-46V then you need some FICM work. Unless you have proof they used a good ELC, go ahead and do a coolant flush and replace with a Cat rated ELC. Be careful of an EGR delete, dunno what your emissions checks are like in NY. No smog on diesels upstate. Will a scangauge monitor those temps? Or do I need independent gauges? Scangauge will monitor those. You also need it to monitor icp, ipr,mand ficm voltage....those are generally the biggies |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 3:53:58 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just save yourself the headache and sell it. A cinder block and a bridge is what I was thinking. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 4:02:36 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What's the benefit of bypassing EGR? EGR - exhaust gas recirculation. Looks like it was something required by the EPA that causes an engine to run hotter. So benefit would be cooler temps, which have their own list of benefits. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 4:13:00 PM EDT
[#4]
That vintage 6.0 I would look at the service records and see if the HPOP to branch tube connect fitting has been replaced..if it hasn't I would do it asap..fairly easy fix..only the turbo and HPOP cover have to come off
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Posted: 5/21/2015 4:24:21 PM EDT
[#5]
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I bought mine in 04. Still going strong. Bone stock. No mods. I keep up on the service. Just replaced all the hoses and first set of brakes. I hope to keep it another ten years. Exactly my experience, except the only "mod" was the EGR cooler falling off. Bought new in '04. I've got 235K miles on it. Still stock. Still on original head bolts, head gaskets, turbo, and injectors. Oil and filter every 5K, 15W-40 Rotella-T Fuel filters every 15K Air filters every 40K Always Motorcraft filters. I've had the hood up a few times over the years, but it hasn't required the services of a trained mechanic since the warranty ran out. I haul more than I tow. Tow a handful of times/year. Haul several times/week. I've slid so many heavy pallets into it the bed is warped. Still runs like a champ, and it will never have an aftermarket tuner attached to it while I own it. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 4:31:04 PM EDT
[#6]
I like how the 6.0's go for 10k less than the 7.3's around here
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Posted: 5/21/2015 4:36:52 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I could be wrong, but I thought the 05+ already were blue spring converted from the factory? Quote HistoryQuoted:
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A blue spring conversion for the fuel filter housing will keep the pressures up at the injectors as well during hard pulls. The 6.0 likes to be run hard. When its used as a grocery getter with short trips and no good warm up time, it gets temperamental. Its a good motor in 05+ (when stock) and I mean stock. I could be wrong, but I thought the 05+ already were blue spring converted from the factory? Possible. I know International introduced the updated parts in 2005, but I am not sure if Ford ever spec'd them to be installed. I have seen 06's that didnt have the upgraded spring/banjo bolts but never heard of anyone installing one on an 07. The only way to tell without taking it apart is to test the FP out of the test port on the housing. If its 50 or lower than no bueno. If its 60+ then it is installed. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 6:11:41 PM EDT
[#8]
Friend at work said something about a plastic screen ahead of the injector pump failing and putting plastic debris in the pump and injectors. A steel screen is recommended.
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Posted: 5/21/2015 6:18:56 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Put a Cummins in it. Future problems solved. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 6:54:04 PM EDT
[#10]
The EGR cooler circulates water in a small radiator type enclosure where exhaust gases pass through the central tube and water through outer tubes with cooling fins.
What happens , as with any cooling system, especially ones with aluminum components , corrosion pits the aluminum until it eats through the wall. When the EGR cooler gets a hole in it , the water enters the exhaust manifold and into the head. Since water does not compress it lifts the head. The head lifts easily on the 6.0 because Ford used TTY ( torque to yield) head bolts , which stretch. Therefore the reason for the need of ARP studs If you delete the EGR cooler and relocate and up grade to an air cooled oil cooler , you won't need the coolant filter. Also when you delete the EGR cooler , you will need a tuner to keep DTC's from showing up and your check engine light from staying on |
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Posted: 5/22/2015 5:19:17 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you up grade to an air cooled oil cooler , you won't need the coolant filter. except the coolant filter eliminates the need to upgrade the oil cooler. lol 
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Posted: 5/22/2015 5:31:38 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yes, but if you're going to the trouble of headstuds might as well do head gaskets. If you find a good shop, they can do it without pulling the cab. Most of the time it's easier just pull the cab and have a huge work area. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: ARB headstuds. My brother in law bought a 6.0 not to long ago. My brother told him to replace the bolts with the ARB studs. He claimed it was already done and brushed him off. His pickup is now in the shop. Repair bill is going to be thousands. Can those be done without pulling the heads? Or should I just take it to the diesel shop in town. We have a pretty good diesel guy just a few miles away. I thought first thing I might run down and have it look it all over and recommend any preventative fixes. I don't want a hotrod, I just want a work truck that will start and run. Yes, but if you're going to the trouble of headstuds might as well do head gaskets. If you find a good shop, they can do it without pulling the cab. Most of the time it's easier just pull the cab and have a huge work area. Both my 6.0s were/are stock |
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Posted: 5/22/2015 5:34:54 AM EDT
[#13]
Fucking sell it?
We have a 6.0 in a F550 and that son of a bitch needs to run the glow plugs or it won't start if it's below 70 degrees. It's already leaking oil and we barely broke 10K miles on it. I know, they can be repaired... or modified and run great but... why have a motor that has a "To-Do" list on??? |
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Posted: 5/22/2015 5:43:16 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I like how the 6.0's go for 10k less than the 7.3's around here |
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Posted: 5/22/2015 5:49:51 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Fucking sell it? We have a 6.0 in a F550 and that son of a bitch needs to run the glow plugs or it won't start if it's below 70 degrees. It's already leaking oil and we barely broke 10K miles on it. ya, dont make a $200 repair to the FICM. fuking sell the bitch. LMFAO! |
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Posted: 5/22/2015 5:50:41 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Fucking sell it? We have a 6.0 in a F550 and that son of a bitch needs to run the glow plugs or it won't start if it's below 70 degrees. It's already leaking oil and we barely broke 10K miles on it. I know, they can be repaired... or modified and run great but... why have a motor that has a "To-Do" list on??? |
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Posted: 5/22/2015 5:54:36 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How are your batteries? The oil pressure has to be up to fire off, if it is spinning a tad slow it makes starting a hitch. Last year I replaced one of the 11 year old stock batteries with an EExideAGM and it now starts like a champ, even in winter. I let it sit most of the winter and it fired right off at 10f after sitting for 2 months . Oil is two year old Mobil 1. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Fucking sell it? We have a 6.0 in a F550 and that son of a bitch needs to run the glow plugs or it won't start if it's below 70 degrees. It's already leaking oil and we barely broke 10K miles on it. I know, they can be repaired... or modified and run great but... why have a motor that has a "To-Do" list on??? Slow this year, but this has been the way the truck has been since day one. Might replace them both and see if that helps, they both test fine, but you can hear that it turns over slower. |
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Posted: 5/22/2015 5:54:55 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
ya, dont make a $200 repair to the FICM. fuking sell the bitch. LMFAO! Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Fucking sell it? We have a 6.0 in a F550 and that son of a bitch needs to run the glow plugs or it won't start if it's below 70 degrees. It's already leaking oil and we barely broke 10K miles on it. ya, dont make a $200 repair to the FICM. fuking sell the bitch. LMFAO! And the rest of the modifications that were posted 
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Posted: 5/22/2015 6:17:42 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Mod it into a Duramax. Isuzumax. Poop thread. 
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Posted: 5/22/2015 10:31:19 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: except the coolant filter eliminates the need to upgrade the oil cooler. lol Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: If you up grade to an air cooled oil cooler , you won't need the coolant filter. except the coolant filter eliminates the need to upgrade the oil cooler. lol Plus replacing the Ford Gold coolant with CAT EC-1 ELC coolant. |
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Posted: 5/22/2015 11:01:24 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Plus replacing the Ford Gold coolant with CAT EC-1 ELC coolant. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
If you up grade to an air cooled oil cooler , you won't need the coolant filter. except the coolant filter eliminates the need to upgrade the oil cooler. lol
Plus replacing the Ford Gold coolant with CAT EC-1 ELC coolant. At 150K the damage from the Ford Coolant is already done and a coolant filter wont help. If he changes to Ford Gold again, then you def. want a coolant filter. CAT ELC is the way to go though. |
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Posted: 5/22/2015 11:05:28 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just save yourself the headache and sell it. I have one. This is great advice. |
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Posted: 5/22/2015 11:06:29 AM EDT
[#23]
I've had the EGR/Oil cooler/headgasket failure and turbo seizure. It happened because I didnt know how to take care of the thing. I did the EGR delete, ARP studs when I replaced the gaskets, the OEM "improved" oil cooler, SCANGAUGE 2 monitoring EOT/ECT, FMB and EBP. I did the studs and delete and cooler because I had to tear it down anyway, so why the hell not?
Monitoring the 6.0 is a BIG DEAL. If the truck hasn't had any problems yet, monitoring is absolutely going to provide you the best bang for buck; if you start seeing problems with FICM power then replace that thing ASAP or it will fry injectors. If you start seeing more than 15 degree spread between oil temp and coolant temp, then you need to replace the oil cooler. The 6.0 REQUIRES clean oil, clean fuel, clean coolant and proper voltage. Change the oil regularly, flush the coolant regularly, replace the oil and fuel filers (there are two) regularly. Get the truck up to highway speed regularly to work the variable turbo. Make sure your batteries are strong and providing adequate voltage. Do these things, and you wont need a delete or studs or external oil coolers and coolant filters. |
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Posted: 5/22/2015 11:07:53 AM EDT
[#24]
Quoted:
Found with with a great body on it and bought it. 2005 with 150k on it and service records. According to the internet and EGR delete, coolant filter, and aftermarket oil cooler are mandatory equipment. I won't be tuning it, just using it for work. What else does it need to make sure it has a decent service life. Put a 7.3 in it. |
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Posted: 5/22/2015 11:14:02 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I like how the 6.0's go for 10k less than the 7.3's around here theres a reason for that. the 6.0's are dirt cheap compared to dodge or chevy too |
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Posted: 5/22/2015 11:22:58 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I bought mine in 04. Still going strong. Bone stock. No mods. I keep up on the service. Just replaced all the hoses and first set of brakes. I hope to keep it another ten years. My FIL has the same. It was a chassis cab and he put a utility bed on it. He has been puss poor about maintenance on the the thing and it still runs strong. Last I looked it had ~150k on it. Only thing that was replaced was a few injectors. |
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Posted: 5/22/2015 11:32:35 AM EDT
[#27]
Uncle had to limp his motorhome in to Oklahoma last night. It was over heating.
6.0 Powerstroke 
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Posted: 5/22/2015 6:52:26 PM EDT
[#28]
Going down to pick it up tomorrow.
Should I go pick up a scanguage tonight and get instructions to set it up for monitoring oil and coolant temps for the ride home? |
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Posted: 5/22/2015 7:01:19 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Going down to pick it up tomorrow. Should I go pick up a scanguage tonight and get instructions to set it up for monitoring oil and coolant temps for the ride home? IRC, engine oil and coolant temps are part of the 11 or so attributes that the SGII already measures. You should be able to just scroll through the menu and find them. FICM Main Power, however, will take some programming, which isn't hard once you figure it out. I have my SGII set to measure EOT, ECT (fWT in SGII terms), FICM Main Power and Voltage. Good luck! |
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Posted: 5/22/2015 7:12:07 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
IRC, engine oil and coolant temps are part of the 11 or so attributes that the SGII already measures. You should be able to just scroll through the menu and find them. FICM Main Power, however, will take some programming, which isn't hard once you figure it out. I have my SGII set to measure EOT, ECT (fWT in SGII terms), FICM Main Power and Voltage. Good luck! Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Going down to pick it up tomorrow. Should I go pick up a scanguage tonight and get instructions to set it up for monitoring oil and coolant temps for the ride home? IRC, engine oil and coolant temps are part of the 11 or so attributes that the SGII already measures. You should be able to just scroll through the menu and find them. FICM Main Power, however, will take some programming, which isn't hard once you figure it out. I have my SGII set to measure EOT, ECT (fWT in SGII terms), FICM Main Power and Voltage. Good luck! My big thing is getting it home safely. The guy said he has driven it semi-regularly and even taken it on some longer trips with no issue, so I am guessing it will be fine, but I always err on the side of caution. Once its sitting in my driveway then I will feel comfortable getting my hands dirty and figuring out exactly what should be done to it to make sure it continues to run well. The redeeming factor is that it has decent miles, and has had a service body on it since it was shipped. Comes with service records too. So I am pretty sure some kid hasn't jacked it up and tuned the shit out of it at some point in the past. |
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Posted: 5/22/2015 7:32:24 PM EDT
[#31]
I'm buying my BIL's 2006 6.0 F250 Super Duty...
This thread is scaring the shit out of me... 
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Posted: 5/22/2015 7:41:55 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've had the EGR/Oil cooler/headgasket failure and turbo seizure. It happened because I didnt know how to take care of the thing. I did the EGR delete, ARP studs when I replaced the gaskets, the OEM "improved" oil cooler, SCANGAUGE 2 monitoring EOT/ECT, FMB and EBP. I did the studs and delete and cooler because I had to tear it down anyway, so why the hell not? Monitoring the 6.0 is a BIG DEAL. If the truck hasn't had any problems yet, monitoring is absolutely going to provide you the best bang for buck; if you start seeing problems with FICM power then replace that thing ASAP or it will fry injectors. If you start seeing more than 15 degree spread between oil temp and coolant temp, then you need to replace the oil cooler. The 6.0 REQUIRES clean oil, clean fuel, clean coolant and proper voltage. Change the oil regularly, flush the coolant regularly, replace the oil and fuel filers (there are two) regularly. Get the truck up to highway speed regularly to work the variable turbo. Make sure your batteries are strong and providing adequate voltage. Do these things, and you wont need a delete or studs or external oil coolers and coolant filters. No, do not do this. Replace the coolant with CAT EC-1 rated ELC coolant and be done with it. Install a coolant filter. Done. Fuck replacing coolant all the time, if you have to do that, you're using the wrong coolant. ELC will last +300k miles, Ultra ELC will last +600k miles. Plus you won't have to worry about cavitation issues using the wrong coolant. |
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Posted: 5/22/2015 10:32:27 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My big thing is getting it home safely. The guy said he has driven it semi-regularly and even taken it on some longer trips with no issue, so I am guessing it will be fine, but I always err on the side of caution. Once its sitting in my driveway then I will feel comfortable getting my hands dirty and figuring out exactly what should be done to it to make sure it continues to run well. The redeeming factor is that it has decent miles, and has had a service body on it since it was shipped. Comes with service records too. So I am pretty sure some kid hasn't jacked it up and tuned the shit out of it at some point in the past. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Going down to pick it up tomorrow. Should I go pick up a scanguage tonight and get instructions to set it up for monitoring oil and coolant temps for the ride home? IRC, engine oil and coolant temps are part of the 11 or so attributes that the SGII already measures. You should be able to just scroll through the menu and find them. FICM Main Power, however, will take some programming, which isn't hard once you figure it out. I have my SGII set to measure EOT, ECT (fWT in SGII terms), FICM Main Power and Voltage. Good luck! My big thing is getting it home safely. The guy said he has driven it semi-regularly and even taken it on some longer trips with no issue, so I am guessing it will be fine, but I always err on the side of caution. Once its sitting in my driveway then I will feel comfortable getting my hands dirty and figuring out exactly what should be done to it to make sure it continues to run well. The redeeming factor is that it has decent miles, and has had a service body on it since it was shipped. Comes with service records too. So I am pretty sure some kid hasn't jacked it up and tuned the shit out of it at some point in the past. It takes some time to program the scangauge 2. I would just drive it home and then set it all up. I have a link for all of the scangauge codes somewhere, I will post it when I find it. |
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Posted: 5/22/2015 10:36:12 PM EDT
[#34]
Here is a link to the scangauge codes and what are acceptable parameters for each
link here |
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Posted: 5/22/2015 11:13:35 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just save yourself the headache and sell it. This. The 6.0 is gigantic pile of shit. Back the day our ranch had three of them and on some occasions all three would be in the shop at the same time. You're better off with an even older 7.3. |
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Posted: 5/23/2015 3:39:38 PM EDT
[#36]
Drove it home with zero issues. Temps stayed fine the whole time, fluid levels are fine. Lots more ass than my 7.3 when you get right on it.
It does have a delayed hot start, which happened to my 7.3 at one point also. I need to start looking into which sensor is causing that, and the steering is a bit sloppy, probably needs to be rebuilt, maybe a new steering gear box. My ass is sore from driving 11 hours though, I need to go outside and walk around. I'm gonna start servicing it tomorrow. |
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Posted: 5/23/2015 3:40:08 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryAwesome. I'll set it up tomorrow. |
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Posted: 5/23/2015 3:53:59 PM EDT
[#38]
I mean this when I say it, buying a 6.0 PSD was the worst decision I made in my early 20s. Everything that could go wrong, went wrong. My engine was stock and I never modded or tuned it. After 3 years of ownership and over $10k in repairs just to keep it running, I sold it and cut my losses.
I was left stranded more times that I can count. It would pull anything I hooked up to it and the truck itself was beautiful. After selling all of my heavy toys, I went back to a half ton. I hope your experience is better than mine. |
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Posted: 5/23/2015 3:55:11 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Drove it home with zero issues. Temps stayed fine the whole time, fluid levels are fine. Lots more ass than my 7.3 when you get right on it. It does have a delayed hot start, which happened to my 7.3 at one point also. I need to start looking into which sensor is causing that, and the steering is a bit sloppy, probably needs to be rebuilt, maybe a new steering gear box. My ass is sore from driving 11 hours though, I need to go outside and walk around. I'm gonna start servicing it tomorrow. When mine did this it was the HPOP going out. |
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Posted: 5/23/2015 4:00:58 PM EDT
[#40]
I don't know much about the 6.0 but the basic mods for a 7.3 are :
1. Gauges - most common are Pyro, Trans temp., Boost but you can have more on something like an Edge. Your best pillar gauges are Isspro and Autometer. Stay away from the cheaper Glow Shifts. 2. Cold air intake - which would be removing the flat rectangle air filter and the housing and throwing it away and replacing with a 6637 filter from NAPA 3. Exhaust - I run a 4" Diamond Eye trurbo back with no muffler. The increase in power with the last two mods is significant plus the sound is great. You can also go to Powerstroke.org and look in the 6.0 section as there's plenty of good guys to answer questions and info there. |
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Posted: 5/23/2015 4:09:33 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
When mine did this it was the HPOP going out. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Drove it home with zero issues. Temps stayed fine the whole time, fluid levels are fine. Lots more ass than my 7.3 when you get right on it. It does have a delayed hot start, which happened to my 7.3 at one point also. I need to start looking into which sensor is causing that, and the steering is a bit sloppy, probably needs to be rebuilt, maybe a new steering gear box. My ass is sore from driving 11 hours though, I need to go outside and walk around. I'm gonna start servicing it tomorrow. When mine did this it was the HPOP going out. the D6's @ work do the same thing. crank the stit out of them until they wont start anymore and then replace the pump.
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Posted: 5/23/2015 4:22:42 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
When mine did this it was the HPOP going out. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Drove it home with zero issues. Temps stayed fine the whole time, fluid levels are fine. Lots more ass than my 7.3 when you get right on it. It does have a delayed hot start, which happened to my 7.3 at one point also. I need to start looking into which sensor is causing that, and the steering is a bit sloppy, probably needs to be rebuilt, maybe a new steering gear box. My ass is sore from driving 11 hours though, I need to go outside and walk around. I'm gonna start servicing it tomorrow. When mine did this it was the HPOP going out. i would look into your stc fitting(its on the hpop), dummy plug, and branch tubes. on the 05 and up 6.0 the hpop usually dose not go bad it can but the most of the time it is the stc fitting dummy plugs and standpipes. need to know what your ipr, icp, icp voltage, ficm sync, and ficm main power are with the key on. also check out this guy http://www.dieseltechron.com he is extremely helpful lots of helpful videos. |
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Posted: 5/23/2015 4:39:53 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
the D6's @ work do the same thing. crank the stit out of them until they wont start anymore and then replace the pump. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Drove it home with zero issues. Temps stayed fine the whole time, fluid levels are fine. Lots more ass than my 7.3 when you get right on it. It does have a delayed hot start, which happened to my 7.3 at one point also. I need to start looking into which sensor is causing that, and the steering is a bit sloppy, probably needs to be rebuilt, maybe a new steering gear box. My ass is sore from driving 11 hours though, I need to go outside and walk around. I'm gonna start servicing it tomorrow. When mine did this it was the HPOP going out. the D6's @ work do the same thing. crank the stit out of them until they wont start anymore and then replace the pump. When mine had long crank times during hot start it was the O-rings on the stand pipes. OP- I hope you have good luck with yours. I've done a lot of work to mine and it runs pretty good. Lately I've got a high rpm miss that is an injector. Only shows up when used as a daily driver and when driven for short trips. Can't pick up it up on a contribution test at low rpm either. I took the family camping and hauled our 31ft travel trailer. That miss all but disappeared. The 6.0s do like to be run hard. I've done head gaskets, ARP studs, coolant filtration kit, a couple injectors, pinion seal, rear brakes, shocks, blue spring upgrade, STC upgrade, EGR delete and a couple of other things. I don't use it as a daily driver anymore, bought a beater car for the commute to work and back. I'm hoping this truck lasts another 10 years for family camping trips and hunting and hauling. I'm at 233,000 km now. The only thing on my to do list is steering box and that finicky injector when I have time, and then rhino line the wheel wells and bottom of the doors. I'm pot committed with this truck with the repairs I did and I'm not gonna buy a new truck or sell this one unless the engine craps out. My buddies and I have 6.0s. Some are more finicky than others. The more they are used as grocery getters the worse they are. The harder you run them, the better they run. |
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Posted: 5/23/2015 4:58:02 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Use only motorcraft oil and change every 5k. Change the fuel filters every other oil change. Worked for me so far and I haven't done any of the recommended upgrades. Or any Conoco Phillips /Phillips 66 branded oil. As Phillips 66 is the OEM for motorcraft. |
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Posted: 5/23/2015 5:00:21 PM EDT
[#45]
Also do not use motorcraft coolant.
Use final charge global 50/50 pre-mix. No debate, its the best coolant in the world. |
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Posted: 5/24/2015 12:47:10 PM EDT
[#46]
I went ahead and ordered new stand pipes and dummy plugs, the STC repair/upgrade and a coolant filter kit.
Got my gauges all set up, FICM is pretty steady, 47.5-48.5 I haven't had a chance to tow with it yet, but after warm up under no load water temp is reading about 175, oil temp is reading about 185. I know the 15 degree spread is for being under load, but I might go ahead and order a new oil cooler anyway as insurance. |
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Posted: 5/24/2015 1:07:47 PM EDT
[#47]
Despite all the negative in this thread I still want one. The trucks are awesome and they are so cheap to buy.
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Posted: 5/24/2015 1:12:27 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Despite all the negative in this thread I still want one. The trucks are awesome and they are so cheap to buy. That was sort of my thought, I got a smoking deal on a clean truck, if it costs me extra in preventative maintenance and can still work hard for me for 5 years or so then I will be happy. I am a realist though, I never expect a free lunch. If you buy a good priced truck you need to expect to spend money/time on it. |
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Posted: 5/24/2015 1:25:24 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I went ahead and ordered new stand pipes and dummy plugs, the STC repair/upgrade and a coolant filter kit. Got my gauges all set up, FICM is pretty steady, 47.5-48.5 I haven't had a chance to tow with it yet, but after warm up under no load water temp is reading about 175, oil temp is reading about 185. I know the 15 degree spread is for being under load, but I might go ahead and order a new oil cooler anyway as insurance. your oil cooler is working fine. sounds like you got a good 1 bro. enjoy! and did you hear anybody say oil change @ 5K. i use any brand of 5w-40 diesel synthetic other than amsoils. it seems to do much better on cold starts and the engine stays nice and clean. |
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Posted: 5/24/2015 9:44:46 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Despite all the negative in this thread I still want one. The trucks are awesome and they are so cheap to buy. I just bid on one last week. It will be the fourth one I will have owned if I get it. I recognize what they are, I am capable of working in them, and I have a good understanding of the HEUI system. |
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