User Panel
[#1]
FL on all my shit.
Like butter. How about some pictures of FLapocalypse I'd like to see that shit. |
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[#2]
For the AK = RIG grease painted on the rail and bolt with a small brush from an electric razor kit that bit the dust years ago. CLP on the FCG pins. Light coat of BC Barricade sprayed on the interior/exterior and wiped down.
For AR = RIG grease on BC. CLP on FCG pins and bolt. Light coat of BC Barricade sprayed on exterior and wiped off. Cleaning = Hoppe's #9 bore cleaner or Ballistol for corrosive using an Otis kit. RIG is such a lightweight grease that it's almost an oil and stays where you put it. YMMV, but it's always worked for me. |
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[#3]
I must be one of the lucky ones( or know how to follow directions)
Used it on my 1911, went to a 3gun basic skills class where there was sand blowing everywhere. I'm convinced it ran as well as it did because the FL wasn't thick enough to grab every particle of sand. Did end up having to knock into battery last few shots because there was just that much sand in it. |
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[#4]
Quoted:
Full synthetic motor oil does everything those expensive oils at the gun stores do, and costs way less per fl oz. People take this shit way too seriously. All your doing is applying a liquid that makes the surface slippery so the parts move freely. IT'S SIMPLE. View Quote I swear to God that lube threads are created by people with nothing else going on in their lives. "Using standard military tested and proven lubes is too simple! I need to find a Lubrication System™ that fits my lifestyle! Hopefully it will require special application techniques and lots of extra work for marginal gains of slipperiness!" Look at the completely asinine lubrication thread in the Sig handgun forum Really? This service pistol has been function just fine for conscripts for decades before that thread and "technique" were created. A shining example of schmoes over thinking something so simple. It's lube, not fucking rocket science. |
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[#5]
I'm not sure what will happen, but I used a combination of CLP and 50wt synthetic oil that I had left over from my supercharger this time.. The oil seemed little thick for my liking, but it's going into summer so we shall see. Pretty sure it won't cycle at all based on some of the posts here, but I'm pretty sure the worst that it would happen is that I have to really clean the bolt earlier than I would, but crazier stuff has happened.
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[#6]
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[#7]
Quoted:
Put it in an old contact lens solution bottle. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Good to know. Reminds me a need a better way of dealing with the Mobile 1 than sticking my finger in the quart bottle. Put it in an old contact lens solution bottle. How will sticking his finger in a contact lens bottle help? |
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[#8]
Quoted:
Put it in an old contact lens solution bottle. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Good to know. Reminds me a need a better way of dealing with the Mobile 1 than sticking my finger in the quart bottle. Put it in an old contact lens solution bottle. I slopped it on with a Q tip, since I had them handy. Worked fine for me. |
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[#9]
I had the same results. Fireclean got really gummy in a few weeks as well. I'm done with all the wonderlubes. I use G96 aerosol triple treatment for cleaning and G96 CLP (only current TRUE mil-spec) for lubing. If I need grease is TW25b.
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[#10]
I've been using Frog lube for a few years with no issues whatsoever.
YMMV. |
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[#12]
Quoted:
By heat the metal up, it opens the pores of the steel to allow the frog lube to soak in Buy into it, it's the truth It's on the directions View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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How does heating the metal change anything? Maybe I did not heat it enough? I simply do not buy that it soaks into the pores of the metal. By heat the metal up, it opens the pores of the steel to allow the frog lube to soak in Buy into it, it's the truth It's on the directions If your metal has pores in it, then the people that made it didn't do it right. I'm just sayin'. |
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[#13]
What the fuck is wrong with Hoppes? All you all experimental type just keep wasting your time. You're taking up arfcom space.
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[#14]
View Quote That vid is ridiculous. Who needs a heat gun to lubricate a firearm? I need a lube I can apply and shoot. I can clean and relube an AR four times in the time he spends applying his magical mint garbage lube. I've never used any of these expensive uber-lubes and my guns run. If your using a heat gun to prep your gun for application you have too much time on your hands. |
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[#15]
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[#17]
Quoted: Full synthetic motor oil does everything those expensive oils at the gun stores do, and costs way less per fl oz. People take this shit way too seriously. All your doing is applying a liquid that makes the surface slippery so the parts move freely. IT'S SIMPLE. View Quote Bought a quart of Mobil 1 probably two years ago. Still have over half and it works as good as anything else. |
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[#18]
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[#19]
Here's what a dealer in Canada has to say about it:
No one uses flog lube anymore, don't feel bad we all fell for it... View Quote |
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[#20]
Quoted: I swear to God that lube threads are created by people with nothing else going on in their lives. "Using standard military tested and proven lubes is too simple! I need to find a Lubrication System™ that fits my lifestyle! Hopefully it will require special application techniques and lots of extra work for marginal gains of slipperiness!" Look at the completely asinine lubrication thread in the Sig handgun forum Really? This service pistol has been function just fine for conscripts for decades before that thread and "technique" were created. A shining example of schmoes over thinking something so simple. It's lube, not fucking rocket science. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Full synthetic motor oil does everything those expensive oils at the gun stores do, and costs way less per fl oz. People take this shit way too seriously. All your doing is applying a liquid that makes the surface slippery so the parts move freely. IT'S SIMPLE. I swear to God that lube threads are created by people with nothing else going on in their lives. "Using standard military tested and proven lubes is too simple! I need to find a Lubrication System™ that fits my lifestyle! Hopefully it will require special application techniques and lots of extra work for marginal gains of slipperiness!" Look at the completely asinine lubrication thread in the Sig handgun forum Really? This service pistol has been function just fine for conscripts for decades before that thread and "technique" were created. A shining example of schmoes over thinking something so simple. It's lube, not fucking rocket science. LOL. |
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[#21]
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[#23]
Quoted:
Have you applied it and left it in the safe for 3 months and then tried to shoot it? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Heat up the gun, apply, excess comes off and wipe with a microfiber clothe. Leaves a nice sheen. While it can pool up in the corners, I have no idea how you all are getting these horrendous issues. Have you applied it and left it in the safe for 3 months and then tried to shoot it? Yes. None of the issues mentioned in this thread presented themselves on a Glock 19 or 20. Perhaps you laid it on too thick? As for heating for application, if you could hold the part with your bare hands, it wasn't hot enough. |
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[#24]
Quoted:
Yes. None of the issues mentioned in this thread presented themselves on a Glock 19 or 20. Perhaps you laid it on too thick? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Heat up the gun, apply, excess comes off and wipe with a microfiber clothe. Leaves a nice sheen. While it can pool up in the corners, I have no idea how you all are getting these horrendous issues. Have you applied it and left it in the safe for 3 months and then tried to shoot it? Yes. None of the issues mentioned in this thread presented themselves on a Glock 19 or 20. Perhaps you laid it on too thick? Maybe you dont need to rotate a bolt on pistol... |
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[#25]
Never could understand using a lube that I couldn't use with other lubes, and had to take my time to apply it rather than squirting some oil in the gun and being done with it. I do apply a small swipe of superlube grease to rails on certain pistols, or the contact points in the BCG, but its not needed, and I can also squirt any gun oil in with it at the range.
My go to oil is slip2000 ewl, but I've used Lucas gun oil, Royal Purple gun oil, CLP, and a few others and as far as cycling they all worked fine, some just stay put longer in the safe than others. |
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[#27]
Quoted:
http://media.midwayusa.com/productimages/880x660/Primary/816/816005.jpg now and forever....never had a problem View Quote this |
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[#28]
Spray liberally with Eezox. It will strip the crap off, then dry and act as a dry lube. Works REALLY well. Also, you can lightly spray it inside polymer mags, wipe off the excess and let the rest dry. Makes the mags function like greased lightning and won't attract dust/ dirt.
Edit: used this stuff on my duty Sig P220.... completely eliminated the nasty flash-rusting I'd see after a shift in the rain. |
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[#29]
It looked to me like just another fad, oh look, a new miracle lube has come out!
It seems like there's another new lube and another whiz bang miracle self defense ammo coming out all the time, but almost without exception its almost all hype, often the performance in the real world leaves a lot to be desired. |
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[#30]
CLP or Hoppes for cleaning and Slip 2000 EWL for lube
Might have to try out the Mobil 1 Synthetic as that would last me a long damn time |
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[#31]
Quoted:
Full synthetic motor oil does everything those expensive oils at the gun stores do, and costs way less per fl oz. People take this shit way too seriously. All your doing is applying a liquid that makes the surface slippery so the parts move freely. IT'S SIMPLE. View Quote +1. Good enough for a car, good enough for a gun. |
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[#32]
I have used Frog Lube of and on. It sucks ass. CLP is just fine.
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[#33]
Quoted:
This ^ Frog Lube is repackaged deli slicer oil. That's why it smells like mint and you can eat it. It's a dumb product in a fancy bottle, overpriced for sale to people who want to believe in magic. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Full synthetic motor oil does everything those expensive oils at the gun stores do, and costs way less per fl oz. People take this shit way too seriously. All your doing is applying a liquid that makes the surface slippery so the parts move freely. IT'S SIMPLE. Frog Lube is repackaged deli slicer oil. That's why it smells like mint and you can eat it. It's a dumb product in a fancy bottle, overpriced for sale to people who want to believe in magic. Yep, Trac Lube. They use it in canneries meat processing plants, roller coasters,etc. |
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[#34]
Froglube never gave me any problems. I switched back to CLP anyway.
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[#36]
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[#37]
I have been running plain old break free CLP in my guns since I got my first AR15 over 10 years ago. I never had a problem with the action gumming up. Fancy lubricants are like diet pills. Snake oil.
ETA: I just realized I have been using the stuff so long they have changed the product label since I started. |
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[#38]
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[#39]
Quoted:
So it can't be used in cold weather? That would automatically scratch it off my list for around here. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Did you heat up the surface before you applied it? So it can't be used in cold weather? That would automatically scratch it off my list for around here. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile I'm not sure that's what he meant. Instructions are to heat up the metal before applying it. I used a hair dryer. However, your point is valid as I've read about FL not doing well in the cold. |
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[#40]
I've been using it in my at for some time now. Still runs smooth. And I havet cleaned it for about 700-900rds. I add some lube sometimes. But that's it.
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[#41]
Quoted:
Good to know. Reminds me a need a better way of dealing with the Mobile 1 than sticking my finger in the quart bottle. View Quote http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/shop-accessories-supplies/liquid-squeeze-bottles/needle-oiler-bottles-prod44434.aspx You can buy them everywhere though. I have something similar I bought from my LGS 10 years ago. |
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[#42]
Froglube and Fireclean turn to waxy shit in the cold (less than 32).
I've never had a failure with my Fireclean'd ACR in subzero temperatures, even if the bolt looked like it was seized up with wax. |
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[#43]
All of the frog lube guys/gals I've met at trade shows are good people, and they are fun to be next to at a show.
However, I use Slip EWL in my own rifle. |
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[#44]
Quoted:
Pour it in the cap then use your fingers View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Good to know. Reminds me a need a better way of dealing with the Mobile 1 than sticking my finger in the quart bottle. Pour it in the cap then use your fingers I use an old BF clp bottle |
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[#45]
Quoted:
Check out this company: Cherry Balmz He makes a good product and was a Cola Warrior West sponsor. View Quote +1 I've been really happy with it so far. |
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[#46]
Quoted:
http://media.midwayusa.com/productimages/880x660/Primary/816/816005.jpg now and forever....never had a problem View Quote damn right |
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[#47]
Regular Slip 2000, BF CLP, or FP-10 all work fine for my ARs, bolt actions, and polymer-framed pistols.
I use Lubriplate, Tetra, TW25b, or moly wheel bearing grease for applications that I like to use a grease: Metal-framed pistols(particularly alloy frames like SIG and Beretta 92), AK/SIG556 rails, M1/M1A actions, FAL, and pump actions. |
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[#48]
Quoted:
What about if it's just surface porosity and surface irregularities in the crystal structure that is described in the non-technical catch all phrase "metal pores"? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
snip If your metal has pores in it, then the people that made it didn't do it right. I'm just sayin'. The instructions specifically says heating it up opens the pores. Surface irregularities, inherent in all surfaces don't open up with heat. I only took one materials course with my engineering degree, and it was a long time ago, but I don't think metal has pores. Lubricants adhere to the nooks and crannies of the irregular surface and decrease surface tension thereby reducing friction and making something lubricated. Some minty liquid / paste does not get absorbed into pores in steel by heating it up with a hair drier. |
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[#49]
Quoted:
Yes. None of the issues mentioned in this thread presented themselves on a Glock 19 or 20. Perhaps you laid it on too thick? As for heating for application, if you could hold the part with your bare hands, it wasn't hot enough. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Heat up the gun, apply, excess comes off and wipe with a microfiber clothe. Leaves a nice sheen. While it can pool up in the corners, I have no idea how you all are getting these horrendous issues. Have you applied it and left it in the safe for 3 months and then tried to shoot it? Yes. None of the issues mentioned in this thread presented themselves on a Glock 19 or 20. Perhaps you laid it on too thick? As for heating for application, if you could hold the part with your bare hands, it wasn't hot enough. I also have had no issues with any handguns I used it on. Only with 2 Ars and I have been using it for over a year. |
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[#50]
Quoted:
Regular Slip 2000, BF CLP, or FP-10 all work fine for my ARs, bolt actions, and polymer-framed pistols. I use Lubriplate, Tetra, TW25b, or moly wheel bearing grease for applications that I like to use a grease: Metal-framed pistols(particularly alloy frames like SIG and Beretta 92), AK/SIG556 rails, M1/M1A actions, FAL, and pump actions. View Quote I started using grease on handguns, forget what it is called, sold by Brian Enos on his website, then switched to wheel bearing grease. That is what I am going back to. Never has a problem even after sitting in the safe for a year, still greased. It doesn't dry out. |
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