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Posted: 12/22/2014 6:20:32 PM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
My '80s vintage Star PD needed a buffer. Got that and ordered a extra power spring calibration kit. Pistol came with 12lb. Kit has 14-22lb springs, like 5 to chose from. Any experience in what to expect? Start with lower lb and work up? It's a sub compact, all metal. Great gun. Bronze color. Pic later. My advice: Run as much spring as you can to reduce frame battering. Basically, run the lightest load you're going to shoot with increasing spring until it FTF/FTE's, then back off a pound. |
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Posted: 12/22/2014 6:21:49 PM EDT
[#2]
Before Sprinco I ran a 22lb. for my uspsa major loads. I still tore up shok-buffs
Start high and go down. |
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Posted: 12/22/2014 6:35:08 PM EDT
[#3]
Quoted:
My '80s vintage Star PD needed a buffer. Got that and ordered a extra power spring calibration kit. Pistol came with 12lb. Kit has 14-22lb springs, like 5 to chose from. Any experience in what to expect? Start with lower lb and work up? It's a sub compact, all metal. Great gun. Bronze color. Pic later. Need a whole lot more info. Start with the need for a buffer. Then move on to the bullets you want to use. What does "all metal" mean? Is it some cheap alloy, carbon, stainless... it will make a difference in stress toleration. Eta, the heavier the spring (within range), the fewer the failures. At least according to WC. #18-20. JMHO |
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Posted: 12/22/2014 7:08:58 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My advice: Run as much spring as you can to reduce frame battering. Basically, run the lightest load you're going to shoot with increasing spring until it FTF/FTE's, then back off a pound. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: My '80s vintage Star PD needed a buffer. Got that and ordered a extra power spring calibration kit. Pistol came with 12lb. Kit has 14-22lb springs, like 5 to chose from. Any experience in what to expect? Start with lower lb and work up? It's a sub compact, all metal. Great gun. Bronze color. Pic later. My advice: Run as much spring as you can to reduce frame battering. Basically, run the lightest load you're going to shoot with increasing spring until it FTF/FTE's, then back off a pound. I run as little spring as possible and have no frame "battering" - 12lb spring shooting .40 major. Springs will bottom out before the frame and slide touch. Almost everyone I know that shoots competitively runs the lightest spring they can get away with and I haven't seen anyone complaining about battered frames after thousands and thousands of rounds. PS. A heavier spring may batter your frame going back into battery with a heavier thump, will also push follow-up shots lower.  |
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Posted: 12/22/2014 7:28:09 PM EDT
[#5]
I like a standard recoil spring with a heavier main (hammer) spring for full house 10mm loads.
Mainspring retards the slide without slamming it back into battery. |
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Posted: 12/22/2014 7:42:17 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I run as little spring as possible and have no frame "battering" - 12lb spring shooting .40 major. Springs will bottom out before the frame and slide touch. Almost everyone I know that shoots competitively runs the lightest spring they can get away with and I haven't seen anyone complaining about battered frames after thousands and thousands of rounds. PS. A heavier spring may batter your frame going back into battery with a heavier thump, will also push follow-up shots lower.
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
My '80s vintage Star PD needed a buffer. Got that and ordered a extra power spring calibration kit. Pistol came with 12lb. Kit has 14-22lb springs, like 5 to chose from. Any experience in what to expect? Start with lower lb and work up? It's a sub compact, all metal. Great gun. Bronze color. Pic later. My advice: Run as much spring as you can to reduce frame battering. Basically, run the lightest load you're going to shoot with increasing spring until it FTF/FTE's, then back off a pound. I run as little spring as possible and have no frame "battering" - 12lb spring shooting .40 major. Springs will bottom out before the frame and slide touch. Almost everyone I know that shoots competitively runs the lightest spring they can get away with and I haven't seen anyone complaining about battered frames after thousands and thousands of rounds. PS. A heavier spring may batter your frame going back into battery with a heavier thump, will also push follow-up shots lower.
40 is a different animal. I shoot 100% 40 now and do run light springs. Besides the recoil and sight back on target thing I gauge springs on how far brass is falling from my gun. My rule is no closer than 3ft and no farther than 9ft. This goes with my 1911/2011, Beretta 96, CZb & TS |
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Posted: 12/22/2014 7:56:33 PM EDT
[#7]
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Posted: 12/22/2014 8:11:53 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: 40 is a different animal. I shoot 100% 40 now and do run light springs. Besides the recoil and sight back on target thing I gauge springs on how far brass is falling from my gun. My rule is no closer than 3ft and no farther than 9ft. This goes with my 1911/2011, Beretta 96, CZb & TS Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: My '80s vintage Star PD needed a buffer. Got that and ordered a extra power spring calibration kit. Pistol came with 12lb. Kit has 14-22lb springs, like 5 to chose from. Any experience in what to expect? Start with lower lb and work up? It's a sub compact, all metal. Great gun. Bronze color. Pic later. My advice: Run as much spring as you can to reduce frame battering. Basically, run the lightest load you're going to shoot with increasing spring until it FTF/FTE's, then back off a pound. I run as little spring as possible and have no frame "battering" - 12lb spring shooting .40 major. Springs will bottom out before the frame and slide touch. Almost everyone I know that shoots competitively runs the lightest spring they can get away with and I haven't seen anyone complaining about battered frames after thousands and thousands of rounds. PS. A heavier spring may batter your frame going back into battery with a heavier thump, will also push follow-up shots lower. 40 is a different animal. I shoot 100% 40 now and do run light springs. Besides the recoil and sight back on target thing I gauge springs on how far brass is falling from my gun. My rule is no closer than 3ft and no farther than 9ft. This goes with my 1911/2011, Beretta 96, CZb & TS 40 is actually a higher pressure round in my case - I use much faster powders for my .40 loads than I do for my .45 loads. I use the double tap method to determine spring rate - 2nd shot high = too little spring, 2nd shot low = too much spring.
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Posted: 12/22/2014 8:45:02 PM EDT
[#9]
Carried a Star PD for years as a summer gun. I ran 16# springs and shot 200gr. loads at 950-1000fps....great combo with no problems.
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Posted: 12/22/2014 10:50:32 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I use the double tap method to determine spring rate - 2nd shot high = too little spring, 2nd shot low = too much spring. Humm, guess that works too. 
If you dont mind I'm gonna recommend this to some of our guys here 
I'm more of a cadence shooter. |
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Posted: 12/22/2014 10:57:30 PM EDT
[#11]
I have several Star PDs you should be replacing the buffer about every 1000 rounds. Do you see the divot ground in the corner of the slide stop catch. They do this to keep a crack from forming there. It beats on the gun something awful if you don't replace it before it needs it.
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Posted: 12/22/2014 10:58:17 PM EDT
[#12]
Most of mine are Washington DC marked is yours or is it VA
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Posted: 12/22/2014 11:15:22 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Most of mine are Washington DC marked is yours or is it VA Mine is VA. |
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Posted: 12/22/2014 11:18:19 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Before Sprinco I ran a 22lb. for my uspsa major loads. I still tore up shok-buffs
Start high and go down. I've seen ads for Sprinco "Recoil Management Systems" for years. Curiosity finally got to me and I bought one for a new CZ75B. I took it to the range and swapped the nearly new factory spring back and forth with the Sprinco. I could tell no difference in recoil. The groups were about the same. On the site there is a picture of this 
which looks nothing like the item for the CZ75. I think it is what ships for 1911s. The item for the CZ is a spring and a guide rod. I shoot standard velocity 115gr ball I reload 99% of the time. Maybe a hotter round would magnify a difference between the two springs. |
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Posted: 12/23/2014 1:00:52 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've seen ads for Sprinco "Recoil Management Systems" for years. Curiosity finally got to me and I bought one for a new CZ75B. I took it to the range and swapped the nearly new factory spring back and forth with the Sprinco. I could tell no difference in recoil. The groups were about the same. On the site there is a picture of this http://www.sprinco.com/images/sprdillon.gif which looks nothing like the item for the CZ75. I think it is what ships for 1911s. The item for the CZ is a spring and a guide rod. I shoot standard velocity 115gr ball I reload 99% of the time. Maybe a hotter round would magnify a difference between the two springs. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Before Sprinco I ran a 22lb. for my uspsa major loads. I still tore up shok-buffs
Start high and go down. I've seen ads for Sprinco "Recoil Management Systems" for years. Curiosity finally got to me and I bought one for a new CZ75B. I took it to the range and swapped the nearly new factory spring back and forth with the Sprinco. I could tell no difference in recoil. The groups were about the same. On the site there is a picture of this http://www.sprinco.com/images/sprdillon.gif which looks nothing like the item for the CZ75. I think it is what ships for 1911s. The item for the CZ is a spring and a guide rod. I shoot standard velocity 115gr ball I reload 99% of the time. Maybe a hotter round would magnify a difference between the two springs. Never tried it with light bullets. I only shoot heavy 40 bullets. 200gr fmj most of the time. What I've noticed is that I don't get the snap at recoil and the muzzle doesn't dip when the slide goes forward for the follow up shot. |
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