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Posted: 12/18/2014 12:07:27 PM EDT
[#1]
Torch for tempering?
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Posted: 12/18/2014 12:14:40 PM EDT
[#2]
Made this the other day from an old saw that was hanging in a barn. Didn't need a band saw, had one before but I never used it. I use a cheap 99 Ryobi drill press, works for me.
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Posted: 12/18/2014 12:21:57 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Made this the other day from an old saw that was hanging in a barn. Didn't need a band saw, had one before but I never used it. I use a cheap 99 Ryobi drill press, works for me. http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y7/pikappa167/00BDFDE8-DFDE-4B10-A040-EBB0151918E3.jpg cool! I just want to play around and have fun, I've done it a few times and enjoyed making them. |
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Posted: 12/18/2014 12:22:44 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Torch for tempering? not sure to be honest, I'm just going to start with pre-made blades before I move on to making my own blades. |
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Posted: 12/18/2014 12:34:31 PM EDT
[#5]
knifekits.com
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Posted: 12/18/2014 12:44:26 PM EDT
[#6]
Buy the book "50 dollar knife shop" by Wayne Goddard. Great intro to budget knifemaking.
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Posted: 12/18/2014 12:55:39 PM EDT
[#7]
Get a good dust mask. Not those cheap disposable. You don't need your lungs being filled up with metal.
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Posted: 12/18/2014 1:18:45 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Get a good dust mask. Not those cheap disposable. You don't need your lungs being filled up with metal. good tip, thanks |
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Posted: 12/18/2014 1:29:15 PM EDT
[#9]
Files, rasps, sandpaper.
I'd YouTube Walter Sorrell's knifemaking videos, he has a great series on tools. Side note, he is an IDPA shooter and has appeared in Glock ads...seems like a good dude. His videos have good production value and don't look like they were shot through a shower curtain. My two cents would be to skip the kits and get some 1084 steel from Aldo Bruno (NJ Steel Baron or something like that), and make your own designs. Instead of shelling out $25 for a knife blank you can get a 4 foot piece of steel you could get 4-6 knives out of. 1084 works well with a simple heat treat via charcoal, coal, propane forge...with tempering in a home oven or toaster oven. All kinds of plans for coffee can forges and hair drier forges out there. I'd do some reading on the various blade forums as well. Another cheap method to goof around is by modifying a good, inexpensve knife like the Old Hickory Butcher knife into something more packable...again, Youtube is your friend. Good luck! PS-Look at Hock (the plane blade folks) for some sweet paring and kitchen knife blanks if you want to go that route. |
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Posted: 12/18/2014 1:31:58 PM EDT
[#10]
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Posted: 12/18/2014 1:33:32 PM EDT
[#11]
tag
TRG |
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Posted: 12/18/2014 1:40:43 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Files, rasps, sandpaper. I'd YouTube Walter Sorrell's knifemaking videos, he has a great series on tools. Side note, he is an IDPA shooter and has appeared in Glock ads...seems like a good dude. His videos have good production value and don't look like they were shot through a shower curtain. My two cents would be to skip the kits and get some 1084 steel from Aldo Bruno (NJ Steel Baron or something like that), and make your own designs. Instead of shelling out $25 for a knife blank you can get a 4 foot piece of steel you could get 4-6 knives out of. 1084 works well with a simple heat treat via charcoal, coal, propane forge...with tempering in a home oven or toaster oven. All kinds of plans for coffee can forges and hair drier forges out there. I'd do some reading on the various blade forums as well. Another cheap method to goof around is by modifying a good, inexpensve knife like the Old Hickory Butcher knife into something more packable...again, Youtube is your friend. Good luck! PS-Look at Hock (the plane blade folks) for some sweet paring and kitchen knife blanks if you want to go that route. awesome! thanks man |
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Posted: 12/18/2014 1:41:09 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Made this the other day from an old saw that was hanging in a barn. Didn't need a band saw, had one before but I never used it. I use a cheap 99 Ryobi drill press, works for me. http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y7/pikappa167/00BDFDE8-DFDE-4B10-A040-EBB0151918E3.jpg That's beautiful! The shape is so unusual. I would buy that. 
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Posted: 12/18/2014 2:07:15 PM EDT
[#14]
I wold also recommend to get 1084 from Aldo Bruno is sound advice. I have about 50 four foot bars of his 1084 and it's outstanding metal. He is a great guy to work with but can sometimes be hard to get a hold of. 1084 is a very easy steel to work with and makes nice sharp blades. My first blades I made with mostly sandpaper and a set if files. On files I really like the whats called a multi cut file they are real nice. I built 2 forges 1 vertical and 1 horizontal, and also built my own PID controlled electric oven that holds temps within 5 degrees at 2000 degrees.
If you would like I could chop a 2 foot bar into 2 12 inch pieces and you can go from there. It is 2 inches wide by 1/4 inch thick |
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Posted: 12/18/2014 2:12:48 PM EDT
[#15]
i'll have to post a picture of the Khukri I got. it was hand made in Nepal. and its not one of those tourist knives either its a working mans knife.
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Posted: 12/18/2014 2:20:19 PM EDT
[#16]
any recommendations on sandpaper or other little odd bits to go with my tools or that will just generally make my life easier?
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Posted: 12/18/2014 2:20:33 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I wold also recommend to get 1084 from Aldo Bruno is sound advice. I have about 50 four foot bars of his 1084 and it's outstanding metal. He is a great guy to work with but can sometimes be hard to get a hold of. 1084 is a very easy steel to work with and makes nice sharp blades. My first blades I made with mostly sandpaper and a set if files. On files I really like the whats called a multi cut file they are real nice. I built 2 forges 1 vertical and 1 horizontal, and also built my own PID controlled electric oven that holds temps within 5 degrees at 2000 degrees. If you would like I could chop a 2 foot bar into 2 12 inch pieces and you can go from there. It is 2 inches wide by 1/4 inch thick I'll look at his stuff
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Posted: 12/18/2014 2:29:06 PM EDT
[#18]
I was in your shoes about a year and half ago and took the leap. Here is I think my 4th knife I did a year or so ago:
Your list is good. The first item I couldn't part with is the drill press. You can use an angle grinder in place of the band saw but it's much faster and cleaner. The craftsman 2x42 belt sander is a nice economical belt sander that with some mods works fine. You can do an amazing amount of knife making with files and sandpaper. Do you plan to do your own heat treating? A propane forge is probably your best bet if so. |
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Posted: 12/18/2014 2:41:22 PM EDT
[#19]
Here are some kitchen/ extra steak knives out of bandsaw blades.
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Posted: 12/18/2014 2:42:57 PM EDT
[#20]
My uncle learned knife making in prison.
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Posted: 12/18/2014 2:48:30 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I was in your shoes about a year and half ago and took the leap. Here is I think my 4th knife I did a year or so ago: http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d156/tkwildcat/IMG_5741_zps840d3059.jpg Your list is good. The first item I couldn't part with is the drill press. You can use an angle grinder in place of the band saw but it's much faster and cleaner. The craftsman 2x42 belt sander is a nice economical belt sander that with some mods works fine. You can do an amazing amount of knife making with files and sandpaper. Do you plan to do your own heat treating? A propane forge is probably your best bet if so. I probably will eventually. Right now I just want to get started playing around, and as I learn and get better and more comfortable making things I'll start doing more |
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Posted: 12/18/2014 3:03:40 PM EDT
[#22]
10 years ago, I started with a drill press, bandsaw and a belt grinder. A dremel is a big help too. I use a lot of 3m wet/dry sand paper to finish the blades. In the beginning just practice grinding the bevels. It will take time, but the more you do, the better you will get. As for heat treating, just send it off to get done at least in the beginning. I use Peters Heat Treating in northern Pa. I think it is somewhere around $14 per blade and you get a discount with 10 blades.
Here are two of my more recent builds... 
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Posted: 12/18/2014 3:06:41 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
10 years ago, I started with a drill press, bandsaw and a belt grinder. A dremel is a big help too. I use a lot of 3m wet/dry sand paper to finish the blades. In the beginning just practice grinding the bevels. It will take time, but the more you do, the better you will get. As for heat treating, just send it off to get done at least in the beginning. I use Peters Heat Treating in northern Pa. I think it is somewhere around $14 per blade and you get a discount with 10 blades. Here are two of my more recent builds... http://techno-ruby.smugmug.com/photos/i-FVRsRT4/0/L/i-FVRsRT4-L.jpg http://techno-ruby.smugmug.com/photos/i-j268W4k/0/L/i-j268W4k-L.jpg  damn
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Posted: 12/18/2014 3:12:34 PM EDT
[#24]
Tag!
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Posted: 12/18/2014 8:05:40 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
10 years ago, I started with a drill press, bandsaw and a belt grinder. A dremel is a big help too. I use a lot of 3m wet/dry sand paper to finish the blades. In the beginning just practice grinding the bevels. It will take time, but the more you do, the better you will get. As for heat treating, just send it off to get done at least in the beginning. I use Peters Heat Treating in northern Pa. I think it is somewhere around $14 per blade and you get a discount with 10 blades. Here are two of my more recent builds... http://techno-ruby.smugmug.com/photos/i-FVRsRT4/0/L/i-FVRsRT4-L.jpg http://techno-ruby.smugmug.com/photos/i-j268W4k/0/L/i-j268W4k-L.jpg Beautiful grinds. What would the hourly rate be for that knife? 
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Posted: 12/18/2014 8:33:44 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: 10 years ago, I started with a drill press, bandsaw and a belt grinder. A dremel is a big help too. I use a lot of 3m wet/dry sand paper to finish the blades. In the beginning just practice grinding the bevels. It will take time, but the more you do, the better you will get. As for heat treating, just send it off to get done at least in the beginning. I use Peters Heat Treating in northern Pa. I think it is somewhere around $14 per blade and you get a discount with 10 blades. Here are two of my more recent builds... http://techno-ruby.smugmug.com/photos/i-FVRsRT4/0/L/i-FVRsRT4-L.jpg http://techno-ruby.smugmug.com/photos/i-j268W4k/0/L/i-j268W4k-L.jpg  I'll take both, Thanks. I'll IM you my address  |
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Posted: 12/18/2014 9:42:27 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Beautiful grinds. What would the hourly rate be for that knife? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
10 years ago, I started with a drill press, bandsaw and a belt grinder. A dremel is a big help too. I use a lot of 3m wet/dry sand paper to finish the blades. In the beginning just practice grinding the bevels. It will take time, but the more you do, the better you will get. As for heat treating, just send it off to get done at least in the beginning. I use Peters Heat Treating in northern Pa. I think it is somewhere around $14 per blade and you get a discount with 10 blades. Here are two of my more recent builds... http://techno-ruby.smugmug.com/photos/i-FVRsRT4/0/L/i-FVRsRT4-L.jpg http://techno-ruby.smugmug.com/photos/i-j268W4k/0/L/i-j268W4k-L.jpg Beautiful grinds. What would the hourly rate be for that knife? Hourly rate... I don't even know how many hours I have in my carved pieces... The top one sold for $1800. The bottom one was just in the Jan edition of Blade Magazine.
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Posted: 12/18/2014 9:57:00 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Hourly rate... I don't even know how many hours I have in my carved pieces... The top one sold for $1800. The bottom one was just in the Jan edition of Blade Magazine.
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
10 years ago, I started with a drill press, bandsaw and a belt grinder. A dremel is a big help too. I use a lot of 3m wet/dry sand paper to finish the blades. In the beginning just practice grinding the bevels. It will take time, but the more you do, the better you will get. As for heat treating, just send it off to get done at least in the beginning. I use Peters Heat Treating in northern Pa. I think it is somewhere around $14 per blade and you get a discount with 10 blades. Here are two of my more recent builds... http://techno-ruby.smugmug.com/photos/i-FVRsRT4/0/L/i-FVRsRT4-L.jpg http://techno-ruby.smugmug.com/photos/i-j268W4k/0/L/i-j268W4k-L.jpg Beautiful grinds. What would the hourly rate be for that knife? Hourly rate... I don't even know how many hours I have in my carved pieces... The top one sold for $1800. The bottom one was just in the Jan edition of Blade Magazine.
That's what I was getting at. The crappy little knife I made would be $300 at $15per hour. obviously it's not remotely that expensive.
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Posted: 12/18/2014 10:06:38 PM EDT
[#29]
ALWAYS WEAR YOUR SAFETY GEAR to include a QUALITY Respirator and NEVER WEAR GLOVE WHEN DOING YOUR GRINDING.
Get some tool and die makers stones in 400 grit for cleaning up your bevels. They are way faster than 400 grit sandpaper and last longer. I use WD 40 as a lubricant when using the stones. After you have your bevels cleaned up with the stones you can switch to sandpaper for the final hand rubbed finish. This archived thread Building a folding knife with DKM shows a bunch of the tools I use to build folders and how I go about doing so. |
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Posted: 12/18/2014 10:12:23 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
ALWAYS WEAR YOUR SAFETY GEAR to include a QUALITY Respirator and NEVER WEAR GLOVE WHEN DOING YOUR GRINDING. Get some tool and die makers stones in 400 grit for cleaning up your bevels. They are way faster than 400 grit sandpaper and last longer. I use WD 40 as a lubricant when using the stones. After you have your bevels cleaned up with the stones you can switch to sandpaper for the final hand rubbed finish. This archived thread Building a folding knife with DKM shows a bunch of the tools I use to build folders and how I go about doing so. Should i wear any type of protective gear while cutting or sanding? I'll have a respirator and goggles on |
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Posted: 12/18/2014 10:23:12 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
ALWAYS WEAR YOUR SAFETY GEAR to include a QUALITY Respirator and NEVER WEAR GLOVE WHEN DOING YOUR GRINDING. Get some tool and die makers stones in 400 grit for cleaning up your bevels. They are way faster than 400 grit sandpaper and last longer. I use WD 40 as a lubricant when using the stones. After you have your bevels cleaned up with the stones you can switch to sandpaper for the final hand rubbed finish. This archived thread Building a folding knife with DKM shows a bunch of the tools I use to build folders and how I go about doing so. Great tutorial... What are the stones you are talking about? I have never herd of this for the bevels. I do 99% hollow grinds. |
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Posted: 12/18/2014 10:43:47 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Should i wear any type of protective gear while cutting or sanding? I'll have a respirator and goggles on Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
ALWAYS WEAR YOUR SAFETY GEAR to include a QUALITY Respirator and NEVER WEAR GLOVE WHEN DOING YOUR GRINDING. Get some tool and die makers stones in 400 grit for cleaning up your bevels. They are way faster than 400 grit sandpaper and last longer. I use WD 40 as a lubricant when using the stones. After you have your bevels cleaned up with the stones you can switch to sandpaper for the final hand rubbed finish. This archived thread Building a folding knife with DKM shows a bunch of the tools I use to build folders and how I go about doing so. Should i wear any type of protective gear while cutting or sanding? I'll have a respirator and goggles on Any dust is bad for you. Look into what you are cutting. For example, Cocobolo wood is in the same family as poison ivy. If you get poison, cocobolo may be a problem for you. I know some people who can't even be in the same room that was used to cut that wood in. Just use your head with power tools. I had a titanium fire on my chest one time...  My resperator and safety glasses saved my face...
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Posted: 12/19/2014 2:04:19 AM EDT
[#33]
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Posted: 12/19/2014 10:17:57 AM EDT
[#34]
Well, Ciraxis the gauntlet has been thrown!
Now you need to do a "watch me make a knife thread". With your photo skillz, I bet you can take um! 
If you do one I'll offer up some exotic woods for the scales...
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Posted: 12/19/2014 10:29:48 AM EDT
[#35]
I started about 1.5 years ago. Here is a fairly recent paring knife of mine:
Here it is after my logo was etched onto it: 
I haven't taken photos of my recent stuff but the next few that I make i'll grab some photos. I agree with the poster above who recommended 1084, even after using steels like D2, O1, 1095, etc, 1084 is still my favorite to work with and use. I recommend a forge or heat treating oven (I started with a forge, I'd recommend others to do the same) Here is where I got mine http://www.diamondbackironworks.com/ They are fantastic quality. Here is an old video of me making a knife out of a file that I reuploaded this year, I am still using the crappy 1x30 in this. I now have a Pheer PH454 variable speed 1HP 2x72 belt sander that I love. Either way though, you get to see how I started: 
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Posted: 12/19/2014 11:44:46 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Well, Ciraxis the gauntlet has been thrown! Now you need to do a "watch me make a knife thread". With your photo skillz, I bet you can take um!
If you do one I'll offer up some exotic woods for the scales... oh I plan on doing something, I just need to get everything together. I would love to photograph some knives. If anyone has a really kick ass knife that they want me to photograph let me know, we can discuss how to get it done. I've got a whole studio and the best digital camera on the market waiting.
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Posted: 12/19/2014 11:49:01 AM EDT
[#37]
what kind of metal should I buy or blanks or kits etc to just start practicing on?
I'd like to have a simple pattern of say pairing or small kitchen knife that I can work on the basics. |
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Posted: 12/19/2014 11:49:07 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
oh I plan on doing something, I just need to get everything together. I would love to photograph some knives. If anyone has a really kick ass knife that they want me to photograph let me know, we can discuss how to get it done. I've got a whole studio and the best digital camera on the market waiting. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Well, Ciraxis the gauntlet has been thrown! Now you need to do a "watch me make a knife thread". With your photo skillz, I bet you can take um!
If you do one I'll offer up some exotic woods for the scales... oh I plan on doing something, I just need to get everything together. I would love to photograph some knives. If anyone has a really kick ass knife that they want me to photograph let me know, we can discuss how to get it done. I've got a whole studio and the best digital camera on the market waiting. Haha I suck at taking photos of my knives. I am using an older DSLR that my fiancee owns and no good place in my apartment to take photos. It's something that I probably need to put some attention into in the near future when I start selling my knives (in the process of creating some base models now). |
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Posted: 12/19/2014 11:54:01 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
what kind of metal should I buy or blanks or kits etc to just start practicing on? I'd like to have a simple pattern of say pairing or small kitchen knife that I can work on the basics. I'd say 1084, 1095, or O1 are good starter steels. 1084 being my all time favorite. Are you going to attempt your own heat treat or send it off? All three of those can be heat treated with a forge/torch if needed, you wont get perfect results but for your first few it'll be fine. Keep things simple for the first 10 or so knives, no wild blade or handle profiles, no wild steel types or handle materials, keep it simple. Learn the basics before you go and attempt something hard. A good learning knife design is the classic Kephart pattern. Its comfortable to use and has a lot of easy shapes to make on a belt sander. Just my 2 cents! |
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Posted: 12/19/2014 11:58:06 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'd say 1084, 1095, or O1 are good starter steels. 1084 being my all time favorite. Are you going to attempt your own heat treat or send it off? All three of those can be heat treated with a forge/torch if needed, you wont get perfect results but for your first few it'll be fine. Keep things simple for the first 10 or so knives, no wild blade or handle profiles, no wild steel types or handle materials, keep it simple. Learn the basics before you go and attempt something hard. A good learning knife design is the classic Kephart pattern. Its comfortable to use and has a lot of easy shapes to make on a belt sander. Just my 2 cents! Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
what kind of metal should I buy or blanks or kits etc to just start practicing on? I'd like to have a simple pattern of say pairing or small kitchen knife that I can work on the basics. I'd say 1084, 1095, or O1 are good starter steels. 1084 being my all time favorite. Are you going to attempt your own heat treat or send it off? All three of those can be heat treated with a forge/torch if needed, you wont get perfect results but for your first few it'll be fine. Keep things simple for the first 10 or so knives, no wild blade or handle profiles, no wild steel types or handle materials, keep it simple. Learn the basics before you go and attempt something hard. A good learning knife design is the classic Kephart pattern. Its comfortable to use and has a lot of easy shapes to make on a belt sander. Just my 2 cents! I plan to, I want to take my time and have fun but also learn how to do this. I have a lot of reading and watching ahead of me but should be fun. I'm in no hurry to start diving into my own creations. |
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Posted: 12/19/2014 12:09:54 PM EDT
[#41]
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Posted: 12/19/2014 12:15:31 PM EDT
[#42]
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Posted: 12/19/2014 12:26:00 PM EDT
[#43]
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Posted: 12/19/2014 12:29:04 PM EDT
[#44]
Priority one is the vice, drill press (low speed is the critical one, you want down to 300-350) and belt grinder. If you're willing to spend the coin, get a 2x72 direct drive with 1hp or a belt drive with 1.5hp. The craftsman isn't bad but they've gotten worse over the years. If you do go that route make sure to get a piece of thermal glass from one of the knife making vendors and secure it to the platen. The metal platen it comes with is just going to warp and flex under pressure.
Files are doable if you want to go that route, but they are a very different work flow and will require some additional hardware to go with the vice to be more practical. If you want to heat treat yourself, start with 1084 from Aldo Bruno. If you want to send it out you're going to want to do more at once and send them to Peters or Paul Bros. Both have excellent reps and have been around a long time. If you are using a "real" grinder not the little craftsman you can profile the blades, drill the holes and do a little prep work on them before sending them out for heat treating as a group, then finish them later to economize the shipping and heat treating costs. If you're sending it out you can use any steel you want, really. I like CPM154 as a general purpose steel but there are plenty of options. For self heat treat there's no beating 1084 as a new maker. |
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Posted: 12/19/2014 12:31:54 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
10 years ago, I started with a drill press, bandsaw and a belt grinder. A dremel is a big help too. I use a lot of 3m wet/dry sand paper to finish the blades. In the beginning just practice grinding the bevels. It will take time, but the more you do, the better you will get. As for heat treating, just send it off to get done at least in the beginning. I use Peters Heat Treating in northern Pa. I think it is somewhere around $14 per blade and you get a discount with 10 blades. Here are two of my more recent builds... http://techno-ruby.smugmug.com/photos/i-FVRsRT4/0/L/i-FVRsRT4-L.jpg http://techno-ruby.smugmug.com/photos/i-j268W4k/0/L/i-j268W4k-L.jpg that bottom knife is the most beautiful knife I've ever seen...Seriously...Amazing. I forged my first knife several months and I'm hooked. |
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Posted: 12/19/2014 12:45:03 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
ALWAYS WEAR YOUR SAFETY GEAR to include a QUALITY Respirator and NEVER WEAR GLOVE WHEN DOING YOUR GRINDING. Get some tool and die makers stones in 400 grit for cleaning up your bevels. They are way faster than 400 grit sandpaper and last longer. I use WD 40 as a lubricant when using the stones. After you have your bevels cleaned up with the stones you can switch to sandpaper for the final hand rubbed finish. This archived thread Building a folding knife with DKM shows a bunch of the tools I use to build folders and how I go about doing so. Could you elaborate on the die makers stones? any specific company you recommend? |
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Posted: 12/19/2014 12:48:28 PM EDT
[#47]
From those with experience what are some good drill presses, grinders etc...I don't want to hijack Ciraxis's thread but I'd love to see some low, mid and high range options for the essential gear. I've been trudging along with a forge, hot cut chisels and an angle grinder but I really want to get the proper tools.
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Posted: 12/19/2014 12:49:54 PM EDT
[#48]
Am I the only one that thinks learning to forge a blade is the step that comes before making a knife? All this grinding talk with jigs and fancy stones seems like it's putting the cart before the horse.
Quoted:From those with experience what are some good drill presses, grinders etc...I don't want to hijack Ciraxis's thread but I'd love to see some low, mid and high range options for the essential gear. I've been trudging along with a forge, hot cut chisels and an angle grinder but I really want to get the proper tools. |
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Posted: 12/19/2014 12:55:16 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
damnQuote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
10 years ago, I started with a drill press, bandsaw and a belt grinder. A dremel is a big help too. I use a lot of 3m wet/dry sand paper to finish the blades. In the beginning just practice grinding the bevels. It will take time, but the more you do, the better you will get. As for heat treating, just send it off to get done at least in the beginning. I use Peters Heat Treating in northern Pa. I think it is somewhere around $14 per blade and you get a discount with 10 blades. Here are two of my more recent builds... http://techno-ruby.smugmug.com/photos/i-FVRsRT4/0/L/i-FVRsRT4-L.jpg http://techno-ruby.smugmug.com/photos/i-j268W4k/0/L/i-j268W4k-L.jpg damnDouble Damn 
OP, I got friends who got into knife-making and you are getting some good advice here, believe me. |
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Posted: 12/19/2014 1:00:57 PM EDT
[#50]
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Am I the only one that thinks learning to forge a blade is the step that comes before making a knife? All this grinding talk with jigs and fancy stones seems like it's putting the cart before the horse. I have a 2 burner forge and a 360# anvil. A drill press from Lowes, 2 angle grinders and a vise. If anything, I would add a belt grinder, but that's it. But then again, I wanted to *make* knives, not grind metal. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Am I the only one that thinks learning to forge a blade is the step that comes before making a knife? All this grinding talk with jigs and fancy stones seems like it's putting the cart before the horse. Quoted:From those with experience what are some good drill presses, grinders etc...I don't want to hijack Ciraxis's thread but I'd love to see some low, mid and high range options for the essential gear. I've been trudging along with a forge, hot cut chisels and an angle grinder but I really want to get the proper tools. Honestly, I learned how to make a knife before I learned how to forge and I am glad I did it that way. Because I know what the final product is and the shapes and curves required to make a good knife. I would recommend people do the material reduction method way before the forging, but thats just my take. I am sure going either direction is fine. |
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