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Posted: 10/24/2014 9:54:22 AM EDT
This morning a woke up to a bit of water on the ground downstairs and a wet ceiling. I ripped open the dry wall and found a leaky copper elbow joint that was going to the upstairs bathroom.
How do I fix this? For reference the picture is point up at the leak. 
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Posted: 10/24/2014 9:56:31 AM EDT
[#1]
A bucket will work.
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Posted: 10/24/2014 9:58:08 AM EDT
[#2]
Re solder the joint
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Posted: 10/24/2014 9:59:03 AM EDT
[#3]
To re sweat the pipe it needs to be drained first. Pretty easy fix.
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:00:28 AM EDT
[#4]
So do I need to cut the joint off?
Forgive me for being a idiot but house stuff is new to me. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:01:07 AM EDT
[#5]
First make sure the copper is leaking and not the black drain pipe.
Then best way is to drain water from copper and solder back up. Probably me would cut out the L' and replace with new L' and a new coupling and pipe as needed. Or just JB weld it. 
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:01:25 AM EDT
[#6]
If it's on TV you know it has to work!
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:02:58 AM EDT
[#7]
First make sure that is the actual leak & water is not coming from somewhere above it.
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:03:03 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So do I need to cut the joint off? Forgive me for being a idiot but house stuff is new to me. No. Drain pipe. Then heat joint to pull apart. Then clean all connections well. Then flux paste and reassemble. then solder connections back up with as little heat as possible. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:03:24 AM EDT
[#9]
find the closest shut-off valve and drain the water out of the pipe. cant sweat copper if there's water in it, so you might have to turn it off at the street and use a hose bibb to drain the pipes. after that youtube 'how to sweat copper' and get all the required tools, torch, flux, sand paper, solder and get to it.
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:03:31 AM EDT
[#10]
Drain all water from the pipe. Get a torch, heat up the joint, put some of the paste stuff on there then melt some solder. The joint will suck in the solder.
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:03:38 AM EDT
[#11]
You can drain the system and cut out the joint and replace it with a sharkbite if you have never soldered before.
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:06:21 AM EDT
[#12]
re-solder it already.
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:09:25 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: So do I need to cut the joint off? Forgive me for being a idiot but house stuff is new to me. no. drain the water... heat the pipes about a foot away to dry the joints and do this. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:10:00 AM EDT
[#14]
Clearly the house needs to comes down and rebuilt with PEX.
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:10:15 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So do I need to cut the joint off? Forgive me for being a idiot but house stuff is new to me. Call a plumber before you; A. Flood your house. B. Burn it down. C. Get both. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:10:25 AM EDT
[#16]
Alright thanks guys. I'm gonna run to the store to grab some stuff. Car stuff I can do, I've just been fortunate to have easy houses in the past.
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:11:05 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Re solder the joint Take joint apart and clean and flux, then solder again. Don't just cap the joint in place.
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:13:42 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Don't do this. It'll leak again later. Take joint apart and clean and flux, then solder again. Don't just cap the joint in place. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Re solder the joint Take joint apart and clean and flux, then solder again. Don't just cap the joint in place. That's my plan. Gonna pick up some extra fittings and pipe if things go south though |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:15:26 AM EDT
[#19]
If you've never done it before, you might want to call a plumber. From what the picture shows, it looks like a very tight place with lots of wood close to the pipes for a novice to tackle.
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:15:29 AM EDT
[#20]
Screw all the DIY responses, if you don't know how to do this call a plumber.
What you screw up could cost more than the plumber. This is something I would do because I have done it before, good luck |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:15:33 AM EDT
[#21]
re-do the joint.
1. sand all copper pipe so that it's nice and fresh. get rid of all the old gunk/solder or just use a new piece of pipe and joints. You still have to sand it if it's new. 2) Apply flux to female side of things 3) put pipes back together 4) Heat the joint, remember, solder follows heat. Don't heat the solder, heat the pipe. THIS IS THE KEY, VERY IMPORTANT. Get the right kind of solder. The non-lead kind for plumbing. 5) Get solder close to joint and if it's hot enough, it will get "sucked" into the joint. Do this all the way around. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:15:49 AM EDT
[#22]
Use a piece of sheet metal as a heat shield so you don't torch your house
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:18:19 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That's my plan. Gonna pick up some extra fittings and pipe if things go south though Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Re solder the joint Take joint apart and clean and flux, then solder again. Don't just cap the joint in place. That's my plan. Gonna pick up some extra fittings and pipe if things go south though Just be careful not to burn the house down. Use sheet metal as a shield if necessary. After soldering wait around the house a couple of hours to be sure. In other words don't solder and leave un attended. eta: Looking how close the wood is I would take others advice and call a plumber. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:18:45 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That's my plan. Gonna pick up some extra fittings and pipe if things go south though Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Re solder the joint Take joint apart and clean and flux, then solder again. Don't just cap the joint in place. That's my plan. Gonna pick up some extra fittings and pipe if things go south though OP, just as the guy at home depot about shark bites |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:19:40 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OP, just as the guy at home depot about shark bites Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Re solder the joint Take joint apart and clean and flux, then solder again. Don't just cap the joint in place. That's my plan. Gonna pick up some extra fittings and pipe if things go south though OP, just as the guy at home depot about shark bites once you figure out how to use solder, you will kick yourself for suggesting that. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:19:44 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you've never done it before, you might want to call a plumber. From what the picture shows, it looks like a very tight place with lots of wood close to the pipes for a novice to tackle. This... I know what I'm doing and even I might consider calling a pro. Else, you're going to have to buy a solder heat blanket and put it between the joint and the wood. Old houses will light up like a box of matches if you're not careful 
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:20:37 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
once you figure out how to use solder, you will kick yourself for suggesting that. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Re solder the joint Take joint apart and clean and flux, then solder again. Don't just cap the joint in place. That's my plan. Gonna pick up some extra fittings and pipe if things go south though OP, just as the guy at home depot about shark bites once you figure out how to use solder, you will kick yourself for suggesting that. I know how to solder but OP doesn't and this is not exactly the job for a first timer. there is alot of flammable materials close by and I would hate to see OP burn down his house. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:20:48 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just be careful not to burn the house down. Use sheet metal as a shield if necessary. After soldering wait around the house a couple of hours to be sure. In other words don't solder and leave un attended. eta: Looking how close the wood is I would take others advice and call a plumber. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Re solder the joint Take joint apart and clean and flux, then solder again. Don't just cap the joint in place. That's my plan. Gonna pick up some extra fittings and pipe if things go south though Just be careful not to burn the house down. Use sheet metal as a shield if necessary. After soldering wait around the house a couple of hours to be sure. In other words don't solder and leave un attended. eta: Looking how close the wood is I would take others advice and call a plumber. The sheet metal is a good idea. you don't need to turn the torch up to 11. remember, the hottest part of the flame is the apex where it changes color. he could, you know, practice in the garage on some scrap pieces. helps to understand how things work. that's how I learned to do this, I did it a few times in the garage before I did it for reals |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:20:53 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
First make sure that is the actual leak & water is not coming from somewhere above it. +10 on this If you're sure that elbow is the source of the leak, shut off water and drain the line as much as you can. Heat up the ends with a torch to loosen the solder while pulling it off with pliers. Sand/clean the ends of the 2 tube ends and then use on of these (I'm assuming that's a 1/2" elbow - od of the tubing would be 5/8" if I'm right). Easier than trying to learn to solder a new elbow on if this is all new to you. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:24:34 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Use a piece of sheet metal as a heat shield so you don't torch your house Will do. I have to solder in some bad places (work for a power company) so sweating the joints isn't foreign. I'm just used to doing in on electrical equipment and not water. I'm going to heat shield the heck out of everything. With extinguisher handy. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:28:20 AM EDT
[#31]
As others have said, easy enough to fix but be very careful with the flame.
Oh and for the plumber fanboi's plumbers aren't immune from catastrophic mistakes. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:29:35 AM EDT
[#32]
A spray bottle full of water is good to have handy, too. Easier to clean up than a fire extinguisher on small flare-ups.
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:31:42 AM EDT
[#33]
In really tight spots I'd use one of these... http://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/rough-plumbing/pipe-tubing-fittings/fittings/copper-fittings/pre-soldered-copper-fittings/1-2-90-degree-elbow/p-1394425-c-9517.htm
Back in the day I used to be able to find pre-formed solder rings that were inserted into regular fittings and could be sweated with a heat gun. They were amazing in tight spots. I only have about a half dozen left. OP. If you've never worked with copper plumbing before you should just call in a plumber. It's a simple fix but since you'll have to replace the ceiling you want to be dead sure it's done right. If you insist on DIY, leave the ceiling open for a few days just in case... |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:38:01 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Don't do this. It'll leak again later. Take joint apart and clean and flux, then solder again. Don't just cap the joint in place. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Re solder the joint Take joint apart and clean and flux, then solder again. Don't just cap the joint in place. So in other words, re solder the joint? 
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:39:35 AM EDT
[#35]
Check with a mirror but I would guess the leak was above the elbow, make sure it is the top of the elbow and not running down the pipe from up in the wall.
Otherwise you are wasting a lot of time and effort. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:44:45 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: So in other words, re solder the joint? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Re solder the joint Take joint apart and clean and flux, then solder again. Don't just cap the joint in place. So in other words, re solder the joint?  |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 11:07:38 AM EDT
[#37]
If you don't know how to solder (which is easy on new pipe but much harder on water filled pipes in tight spaces). They make copper to CPVC fittimgs such as shark bite or compression fittings. New guys seems to be able to use CPVC and glue much easier. I would cut it out and solder in new copper but I am good at soldering and have done it hundreds of times. Especially in a sealed ceiling you need to do it right or you will now become a drywall expert as well (possibly a U boat commander).
Call a plumber if not 100% sure on what you are doing. The shark bite fitting switch to use CPVC may be easier for you in that tight space. I don't like or use them but they work. They are also pricey. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 11:15:41 AM EDT
[#38]
Quoted:
This morning a woke up to a bit of water on the ground downstairs and a wet ceiling. I ripped open the dry wall and found a leaky copper elbow joint that was going to the upstairs bathroom. How do I fix this? For reference the picture is point up at the leak. http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp343/jmanski/2014-10-24%2006.50.10_zpsyastzgwv.jpg turn off water, drain If you want to fix yourself get parts sweat in new junctions or call a plumber and let him deal with it. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 11:15:43 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You can drain the system and cut out the joint and replace it with a sharkbite if you have never soldered before. Given your lack of familiarity with soldering, this is not a good spot to learn. Just use the sharkbites on this one. Learning to solder in that spot is kind of like taking your first driving lesson on the expressway. Steep learning curve. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 11:18:01 AM EDT
[#40]
Snake (actually Sharkbite, snake bite is a type of screw head used in secure facilities) bite fittings and some new pipe. If you don't know what to do you have no business soldering pipes that will be covered with drywall.
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Posted: 10/24/2014 11:18:18 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So do I need to cut the joint off? Forgive me for being a idiot but house stuff is new to me. best way is to drain it, remove the parts replace the ones you a not sure about sand all the ends that will be resoldered, but hem back together solder them up I would suspect the joint that is green. Or call a plumber but you will pay big time for it. Looks like a bitch of a place to work. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 11:18:45 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So do I need to cut the joint off? Forgive me for being a idiot but house stuff is new to me. I'd highly advise against re-sweating. Get a copper pipe cutter(its a small device that you tighten onto the pipe and turn), a small section of pipe, and a couple of shark bite fittings. Sweating copper is a bitch. Shark bites are easy. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 11:19:24 AM EDT
[#43]
Soldering can be tough, best if new or leave the old as the male end so you can clean it better.
I'd go with sharkbites and pex, if the copper is thinning, be prepared for more leaks. I'd put in a pex section where the pipes come in the house so they can no longer serve as a perfect ground. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 11:38:29 AM EDT
[#44]
I would look closely and see if the 2 copper lines are contacting each other. Motion from the water being turned on and off may wear a hole in your plumbing.
If you are going to sweat the repair, stuff some white bread in the line if it is still dripping any water. shark-bites are really easy. I would change the routing or secure the lines so they cannot touch each other. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 11:45:50 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Screw all the DIY responses, if you don't know how to do this call a plumber. What you screw up could cost more than the plumber. This is something I would do because I have done it before, good luck I concur as as was helping a friend once in his bathroom project and he couldn't get a fitting to go with a MAAP torch so went and got the oxy-acetalyne torch (as in the whole setup on the cart) and brought it upstairs to finish the job. He nearly burnt the place down and this is a guy that rebuilds airplanes for a living. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 11:54:00 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
As others have said, easy enough to fix but be very careful with the flame. Oh and for the plumber fanboi's plumbers aren't immune from catastrophic mistakes. But plumbers carry insurance that will definitely pay to put it back right. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 12:43:32 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So do I need to cut the joint off? Forgive me for being a idiot but house stuff is new to me. Take it easy on yourself. You're not the idiot. The idiot is the plumber that did the job in the first place. Putting copper soldered pipe right next to plastic drain or supply lines is idiotic. EBR666 |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 12:50:32 PM EDT
[#48]
#1 water likes to run downhill
you may see the drip off that elbow when the leak could be further up I once saw a shower valve leak in a apartment complex that went down one floor and over 2 apartments before dripping off a elbow 
#2 although learning to solder/sweat is a great skill to have this is not the place to learn that skill your repair is surrounded by lots of wood that would love to have a fire party at your expense ETA: toilet valve supply line? you want your first experience to be a repair surrounded by wood and a plastic pipe hooked to your shitter?
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Posted: 10/24/2014 12:54:06 PM EDT
[#49]
OP....unless you've sweated pipe on a bench, call a plumber in.
Doing CP is different from electrical. Quite a bit. Either way, those pipes will have to be pulled apart, and either cleaned spotless (good luck with that) or have parts replaced. I'd pull them apart, get everything clean, flux well, and then sweat them. Then again, I've done thousands over the years. Other guys are also right in that...inspect that area for motion. Wear patterns and pinholes are a real bitch. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 12:55:56 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You can drain the system and cut out the joint and replace it with a sharkbite if you have never soldered before. This is how I did it. |
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