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Link Posted: 3/13/2014 10:21:48 AM EDT
[#1]
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I replaced 3 cfl 60 watt bulbs in the past 3 months and none of them were older than 1 year. its a scam and theres mercury involved so its not exactly green.
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I cant help but wonder if some folks don't have underlying electrical problems where they live.  While I did have a couple of CFLs fail in my house before their time, most lasted their rated lifespan or longer.  And I didn't buy expensive ones either.  The cheapest shit I could find.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 10:22:26 AM EDT
[#2]
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Jesus H. Christ!  Page 2 on General Discussion on a fed. mandated issue and not one Fuck Obama yet?

FUCK OBAMA!

Now that's out of the way, the LED's have been a God send around my house. It seems I was replacing old bulbs about once a month in some of my light fixtures.  I first experimented with LED's in these areas and have not replaced them in probably 2 years now!  And less heat upstairs.  
Just the other day the wife was painting the kids bathroom and the heat from the fixtures over the sink was unbearable to work in the small area. All from the 6 incandescent bulbs.
A quick trip to Lowes and now the difference in heat in that area is unreal.  And considering the kids absentmindedly leave the lights on all the time, I'm going to be saving on light burning electricity, and the cooling system overcoming the heat also.
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The heat is a big issue for me,  We have little cans lights over our cabinets and hi hats in the ceiling.  The little cans were supposed to have halogens which burn hot as hell, but I found some LED bulbs on clearance - they're brighter and cooler.  The hi hats have incandescent floods and heat the room up too.  This summer they're getting swapped for LEDs as well.  Fuck having to dig the ladder out every few months to replace blown bulbs.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 10:23:23 AM EDT
[#3]
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Quoted:



The heat is a big issue for me,  We have little cans lights over our cabinets and hi hats in the ceiling.  The little cans were supposed to have halogens which burn hot as hell, but I found some LED bulbs on clearance - they're brighter and cooler.  The hi hats have incandescent floods and heat the room up too.  This summer they're getting swapped for LEDs as well.  Fuck having to dig the ladder out every few months to replace blown bulbs.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Jesus H. Christ!  Page 2 on General Discussion on a fed. mandated issue and not one Fuck Obama yet?

FUCK OBAMA!

Now that's out of the way, the LED's have been a God send around my house. It seems I was replacing old bulbs about once a month in some of my light fixtures.  I first experimented with LED's in these areas and have not replaced them in probably 2 years now!  And less heat upstairs.  
Just the other day the wife was painting the kids bathroom and the heat from the fixtures over the sink was unbearable to work in the small area. All from the 6 incandescent bulbs.
A quick trip to Lowes and now the difference in heat in that area is unreal.  And considering the kids absentmindedly leave the lights on all the time, I'm going to be saving on light burning electricity, and the cooling system overcoming the heat also.



The heat is a big issue for me,  We have little cans lights over our cabinets and hi hats in the ceiling.  The little cans were supposed to have halogens which burn hot as hell, but I found some LED bulbs on clearance - they're brighter and cooler.  The hi hats have incandescent floods and heat the room up too.  This summer they're getting swapped for LEDs as well.  Fuck having to dig the ladder out every few months to replace blown bulbs.

Replacing all 15 of the halogen 50W tracklights in my house has been amazing.  Dimmable, too.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 10:26:47 AM EDT
[#4]
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I agree with you.  Cree's made "made in America" claims are BS.  They make parts in China, and import them into the USA for assembly.  
  Most of Cree's manufacturing operations are in China.  http://www.gop.com/news/research/cree-chip-china-heart/



Anyone recognize this guy touring Cree's facilities?  
http://img.optics.org/objects/news/2/6/15/obamacree2.jpg

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Really cool. I love CREE.

I will buy some, but I  call BULLSHIT on the  'made in America ' claim


I agree with you.  Cree's made "made in America" claims are BS.  They make parts in China, and import them into the USA for assembly.  
  Most of Cree's manufacturing operations are in China.  http://www.gop.com/news/research/cree-chip-china-heart/



Anyone recognize this guy touring Cree's facilities?  
http://img.optics.org/objects/news/2/6/15/obamacree2.jpg


That is a cock sucking communist named Oboma.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 10:28:36 AM EDT
[#5]
I didn't see it in the article.  Will there be a TW Series variant of this 100w equivalent bulb?

When Cree first came out with their consumer home depot bulbs bulbs a year or two ago, I did not like the light quality.  When they came out with their TW series of High CRI bulbs shortly thereafter, I was sold.  I'd love some of these 100w bulbs but only if they are TW Series.

IIRC currently:
Standard = 80 CRI
TW Series = 93 CRI

The 40w and 60w come in either but the TW Series costs more.   I can personally tell the difference and will only by TW Series.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 10:35:47 AM EDT
[#6]
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 10:41:51 AM EDT
[#7]
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I've seen patent docs for a candelabra from them. I hope they get that out soon, the chandelier and hallway sconces are the last old-bulb fixtures I have left. Everyone else's LEDs suck.
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YES!

This is what I've been waiting for. Quite a few of my fans and chandelier are candelabra base.

I just hope they put out more than 25watt equivalent. I really need 40watt equivalents to make it worthwhile in the fans
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 10:46:35 AM EDT
[#8]
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Great to see a US company be able to compete on price while providing a superior product.

Going all LED in our new house, currently have LEDs in high use areas in this house and am very happy with them.
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Almost all the bulbs in our house are LED now.

It's kind of strange not having to change light bulbs actually.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 10:46:56 AM EDT
[#9]
Anybody out there have experience with replacing car headlight bulbs with drop in LED units?
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 10:48:56 AM EDT
[#10]
$20 light bulbs?

100 wat?'s more like it. That is fucking ridiculous.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 10:55:29 AM EDT
[#11]
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Quoted:
Anybody out there have experience with replacing car headlight bulbs with drop in LED units?
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Some auto makers are experimenting with it. No one I know makes one now that would be useful for driving. The off road LED lights kick ass, but aren't DOT legal.

Most now are only good for daytime running lights that have shown up in the last couple of years.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 11:01:05 AM EDT
[#12]
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The CFLs I put in my house lasted around an average of 5 years a piece.  Maybe you have some electrical issues with your home that aren't readily noticeable.
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$20 for a light bulb?



Yup, the LED light bulb will love you long time



no, it won't,  based on my experience with other "electronic" based lightbulbs. Mainly CFL's and a couple LEDs.  Those damn things have fragile circuit boards and with all the heat generated, the electronics fail. Sure, the LED might be good, and the poisonous mercury vapor mix in the little tube might be good for a millenia, but if the %@$@$@# bulb won't turn on, what good is it?


these new bulbs are a red herring. They are many many times the cost, don't seem to last any longer than good incandescents, and some of them are poisonous to dispose of.

I was  a HUGE proponent of CFL/LED lighting early one, but I got stung. I spent a crapload on lights that just die right away.  I'll wait til these bulbs can prove the actually last as long as they say they do.  Not based on estimates, but when these bulbs literally last ten years.


The CFLs I put in my house lasted around an average of 5 years a piece.  Maybe you have some electrical issues with your home that aren't readily noticeable.


I have a CFL in my house that is going on 8 years.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 11:02:41 AM EDT
[#13]
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Been slowly replacing all the bulbs in my house with LEDs.

Plus they're awesome outdoors. No bugs and I live on a lake.
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Why no Bugs? Serious question not a joke.
I live near a river.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 11:02:46 AM EDT
[#14]
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Quoted:


Some auto makers are experimenting with it. No one I know makes one now that would be useful for driving. The off road LED lights kick ass, but aren't DOT legal.

Most now are only good for daytime running lights that have shown up in the last couple of years.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Anybody out there have experience with replacing car headlight bulbs with drop in LED units?


Some auto makers are experimenting with it. No one I know makes one now that would be useful for driving. The off road LED lights kick ass, but aren't DOT legal.

Most now are only good for daytime running lights that have shown up in the last couple of years.


Thanks-I've seen some offered on Amazon; on paper, it seems like they'd kick ass.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 11:05:58 AM EDT
[#15]
I've replaced most of the bulbs in my house with LEDs. I like the "bright white" color (3000-3100k) and it seems like everyone makes the "soft white" (2700k) and "daylight" (5000k+), but very few companies make bulbs in the color temp I like. I run "daylight" bulbs in the garage, so I may look into these for out there.



I really wish someone would make an omni-directional LED bulb that would actually work in garage door openers, though. I've tried 4 different brands and they all interfere with the remotes if/when the lights are on.



For those of you looking for candelabra base LEDs, I have a bunch of the FEIT bulbs in indoor and outdoor fixtures, and they work well. They make them in 25, 40 and 60w equivalent versions, and they're dimmable.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 11:06:46 AM EDT
[#16]
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good plan.

I don't know why all these cfl and LED makers think that I want to replace 60 or 75 watt traditional bulbs with more efficient versions.

I want bright.

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This.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 11:12:54 AM EDT
[#17]

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yea but it will last 10+ years and burn 1/10th the power with a better light spectrum. i have been slowly replacing them in my house over the last year. i find them for under 10.00 on sale in the 60wt range. percieved light is brighter than standard bulbs imho.
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Quoted:

$20 for a light bulb?







yea but it will last 10+ years and burn 1/10th the power with a better light spectrum. i have been slowly replacing them in my house over the last year. i find them for under 10.00 on sale in the 60wt range. percieved light is brighter than standard bulbs imho.


Allegedly



 
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 11:13:42 AM EDT
[#18]
I've slowly replaced all my bulbs with LEDs. I love 'em... desktop lamp, closet, bedrooms, kitchen, everything. Soft whites and daylights.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 11:15:13 AM EDT
[#19]

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Get out of here.  Is that true?  You are on my short list for post of the year.  This is the kind of thing that makes GD worth being around.  
 
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Been slowly replacing all the bulbs in my house with LEDs.

Plus they're awesome outdoors. No bugs and I live on a lake.
Get out of here.  Is that true?  You are on my short list for post of the year.  This is the kind of thing that makes GD worth being around.  
 


Yes.  One of the reasons LED is teh way to go on motorcycles.


Quoted:
Quoted:
Been slowly replacing all the bulbs in my house with LEDs.

Plus they're awesome outdoors. No bugs and I live on a lake.



Why no Bugs? Serious question not a joke.
I live near a river.


I beleive it's to do with the wavelength of the light.  For example IR doesn't attract bugs either.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 11:15:27 AM EDT
[#20]
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Quoted:
I've replaced most of the bulbs in my house with LEDs. I like the "bright white" color (3000-3100k) and it seems like everyone makes the "soft white" (2700k) and "daylight" (5000k+), but very few companies make bulbs in the color temp I like. I run "daylight" bulbs in the garage, so I may look into these for out there.

I really wish someone would make an omni-directional LED bulb that would actually work in garage door openers, though. I've tried 4 different brands and they all interfere with the remotes if/when the lights are on.

For those of you looking for candelabra base LEDs, I have a bunch of the FEIT bulbs in indoor and outdoor fixtures, and they work well. They make them in 25, 40 and 60w equivalent versions, and they're dimmable.
View Quote


They also are a very cold surgical-theater blue-white. I need warm white for wood floors and brass fixtures.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 11:17:43 AM EDT
[#21]
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Quoted:
$20 light bulbs?

100 wat?'s more like it. That is fucking ridiculous.
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I don't how to say this without sounding like an asshole. It's the difference between $90-$100 per year, per bulb and $15-$20 per year per bulb. Add in the cost of replacing the old bulb yearly and that disparity gets even larger.  This isn't a case of waiting 8 or 10 for a new furnace to pay for itself. LED bulbs pay for themselves in months, provide the same or better light, and require far less maintenance.

If you don't see the value in that worth the upfront cost, I don't know how much simpler it can be made.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 11:18:06 AM EDT
[#22]

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What?  How's that work?  Never heard they will not attract bugs.  I need info on this and will have to get some of these lights if true.
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Quoted:

Been slowly replacing all the bulbs in my house with LEDs.



Plus they're awesome outdoors. No bugs and I live on a lake.




What?  How's that work?  Never heard they will not attract bugs.  I need info on this and will have to get some of these lights if true.
They don't produce UV

 
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 11:23:34 AM EDT
[#23]
The Cree home LEDs are awesome! I've got near 20 of the 40 and 60s in my house. Can't wait for the 100!
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 11:23:57 AM EDT
[#24]
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This.
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good plan.

I don't know why all these cfl and LED makers think that I want to replace 60 or 75 watt traditional bulbs with more efficient versions.

I want bright.



This.


This Cree 100W produces the equivalent light of a 100W incandescent. It just uses 18W instead of 100W. So, it's 82% more efficient at producing the same light. It's like making your car 82% more fuel efficient with the flip of a switch.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 11:24:15 AM EDT
[#25]
The CREE led bulbs at Home Depot kick ass.



My favorite is the 60w "Warm White" 2700k version. Unfortunately, the warm whites seem to be low in stock the last couple times I've went, mostly just soft white 2700k and daylight 5000k there.

The warm white is also not listed on the HD website, at least for my store.



I'm not sure what makes the difference between "warm" and "soft" since they're both 2700k. Different coating maybe?
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 11:30:21 AM EDT
[#26]

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LEDs can be dimmed with a process called pulse width modulation (pwm). It's basically turning the diode on an off quickly which through persistence of vision makes it appear to be dim.  Regular dimmer switches are big variable resistors that limit current to the bulb. An incandescent light glows due to the amount of current flowing through the filament. Dimmed LEDs still require full current to work so a standard dimmer has little to no usable effect on them.  I suspect we will see new dimmer switches for LEDs that communicate to a pwm controller in the bulb.



Three way LED bulbs don't require any special lamp/fixture hardware beyond what is required by a 3 way incandescent bulb. A normal bulb has two contacts. Current is either allowed to flow through or not. Three way bulbs have three contacts and two filaments of differing wattage. You can power the low watt filament, the high watt filament or both to get your three brightnesses. A three way LED bulb would work exactly the same way. It would have two constant current drivers and two discrete strings of LEDs. They even make units with many individual LEDs on one die.
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Quoted:

I hate CFL, hence the reason I hated the anti-incandescent legislation.



Thank you Cree, for kicking ass and offer something I would have bought regardless.



Now, you just need to figure out how to do a 3-way bulb.




LEDs can be dimmed with a process called pulse width modulation (pwm). It's basically turning the diode on an off quickly which through persistence of vision makes it appear to be dim.  Regular dimmer switches are big variable resistors that limit current to the bulb. An incandescent light glows due to the amount of current flowing through the filament. Dimmed LEDs still require full current to work so a standard dimmer has little to no usable effect on them.  I suspect we will see new dimmer switches for LEDs that communicate to a pwm controller in the bulb.



Three way LED bulbs don't require any special lamp/fixture hardware beyond what is required by a 3 way incandescent bulb. A normal bulb has two contacts. Current is either allowed to flow through or not. Three way bulbs have three contacts and two filaments of differing wattage. You can power the low watt filament, the high watt filament or both to get your three brightnesses. A three way LED bulb would work exactly the same way. It would have two constant current drivers and two discrete strings of LEDs. They even make units with many individual LEDs on one die.
Actually LEDs can be dimmed by current as well. I built a supplementary led fixture using Cree LEDs over my reef tank and have 1 ohm resistors that I use to measure current as I vary it at the potentiometer on the driver.  Running the chips at higher currents produces a lot of heat though so I used higher wattage LEDs running below their max current

 
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 11:35:41 AM EDT
[#27]
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Another real-world example -

I just replaced 4 65w hi-hats in my home office that run 16 hours a day.

I bought these bulbs - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4CPKT4/ that make the room brighter than the old bulbs ever did.

Total investment $83.88.

Old usage - 65w x 4 x 16 = 4.16 KWh per day @ $0.16 per KWh = $0.64/day = $242.94 per year

New usage - 10.5w x 4 x 16 = 0.672 KWh per day @ $0.16 per KWh = $0.11/day = $39.24 per year

Savings in electricity - $203.70 per year (plus about $15 in replacement bulbs)
View Quote


Your room will also be noticeably cooler than it used to be. I replaced the under cabinet xenon lights in my kitchen with LEDs and knocked the normal temp in the room down by 10 degrees.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 11:37:58 AM EDT
[#28]

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I want a 250 or 350 watt equivalent.  Why stop at 100?  I'd love a lamp that lit the whole room like daytime.
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We use some industrial 250watt equivalent fixtures.  Those things are bright, when I plug one in it cast shadows in the shop lot by overhead 1000w HPS

 
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 11:40:20 AM EDT
[#29]
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no, it won't,  based on my experience with other "electronic" based lightbulbs. Mainly CFL's and a couple LEDs.  Those damn things have fragile circuit boards and with all the heat generated, the electronics fail. Sure, the LED might be good, and the poisonous mercury vapor mix in the little tube might be good for a millenia, but if the %@$@$@# bulb won't turn on, what good is it?



these new bulbs are a red herring. They are many many times the cost, don't seem to last any longer than good incandescents, and some of them are poisonous to dispose of.

I was  a HUGE proponent of CFL/LED lighting early one, but I got stung. I spent a crapload on lights that just die right away.  I'll wait til these bulbs can prove the actually last as long as they say they do.  Not based on estimates, but when these bulbs literally last ten years.
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$20 for a light bulb?



Yup, the LED light bulb will love you long time



no, it won't,  based on my experience with other "electronic" based lightbulbs. Mainly CFL's and a couple LEDs.  Those damn things have fragile circuit boards and with all the heat generated, the electronics fail. Sure, the LED might be good, and the poisonous mercury vapor mix in the little tube might be good for a millenia, but if the %@$@$@# bulb won't turn on, what good is it?



these new bulbs are a red herring. They are many many times the cost, don't seem to last any longer than good incandescents, and some of them are poisonous to dispose of.

I was  a HUGE proponent of CFL/LED lighting early one, but I got stung. I spent a crapload on lights that just die right away.  I'll wait til these bulbs can prove the actually last as long as they say they do.  Not based on estimates, but when these bulbs literally last ten years.


I replaced 10 75-100W incans with CFLs in 2010 in fixtures that burn for hours every day. The only one I've had to change, the lamp got knocked over by the vacuum cleaner cord. YMMV
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 11:42:21 AM EDT
[#30]
100W equivalent or 100W LED?

100W LED would be on the order of 1000W incandescent equvalent!

I want 100W LED (Actual) for security floods.

ETA:
new 100-watt LED bulb, which will retail at Home Depot for $19.97.
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Article is mislabelled, that's a 100W equivalent
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 11:43:33 AM EDT
[#31]
I just saw this Phillips flat led bulb at Home Depot.  It's 10.5 W (60W eqv), 800 lumens, like the regular LED bulb they have.  It's designed for use in sconces and fixtures that are a little narrow for a traditional bulb.  I bought one to try it out and I'd have to say it's the same brightness.  


Link Posted: 3/13/2014 11:46:43 AM EDT
[#32]
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Quoted:
100W equivalent or 100W LED?

100W LED would be on the order of 1000W incandescent equvalent!

I want 100W LED (Actual) for security floods.

ETA:


Article is mislabelled, that's a 100W equivalent
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Quoted:
100W equivalent or 100W LED?

100W LED would be on the order of 1000W incandescent equvalent!

I want 100W LED (Actual) for security floods.

ETA:
new 100-watt LED bulb, which will retail at Home Depot for $19.97.


Article is mislabelled, that's a 100W equivalent


With a strobe mode in the frequency that can cause seizures.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 11:49:37 AM EDT
[#33]

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Thanks-I've seen some offered on Amazon; on paper, it seems like they'd kick ass.

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Quoted:

Anybody out there have experience with replacing car headlight bulbs with drop in LED units?




Some auto makers are experimenting with it. No one I know makes one now that would be useful for driving. The off road LED lights kick ass, but aren't DOT legal.



Most now are only good for daytime running lights that have shown up in the last couple of years.




Thanks-I've seen some offered on Amazon; on paper, it seems like they'd kick ass.

A buddy has several LED light bars on his rig.  When he lights them all the surrounding area is daylight bright for quite a way out

 
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 11:52:26 AM EDT
[#34]
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A buddy has several LED light bars on his rig.  When he lights them all the surrounding area is daylight bright for quite a way out  
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Anybody out there have experience with replacing car headlight bulbs with drop in LED units?


Some auto makers are experimenting with it. No one I know makes one now that would be useful for driving. The off road LED lights kick ass, but aren't DOT legal.

Most now are only good for daytime running lights that have shown up in the last couple of years.


Thanks-I've seen some offered on Amazon; on paper, it seems like they'd kick ass.
A buddy has several LED light bars on his rig.  When he lights them all the surrounding area is daylight bright for quite a way out  


I have a 650 lumen LED light for my bicycle(s)-it's quite a step up from the 1.25w halogen light I started out with 25 years ago, and even the 15W halogen light I had about 10 years ago.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 12:10:48 PM EDT
[#35]
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Actually LEDs can be dimmed by current as well. I built a supplementary led fixture using Cree LEDs over my reef tank and have 1 ohm resistors that I use to measure current as I vary it at the potentiometer on the driver.  Running the chips at higher currents produces a lot of heat though so I used higher wattage LEDs running below their max current  
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I hate CFL, hence the reason I hated the anti-incandescent legislation.

Thank you Cree, for kicking ass and offer something I would have bought regardless.

Now, you just need to figure out how to do a 3-way bulb.


LEDs can be dimmed with a process called pulse width modulation (pwm). It's basically turning the diode on an off quickly which through persistence of vision makes it appear to be dim.  Regular dimmer switches are big variable resistors that limit current to the bulb. An incandescent light glows due to the amount of current flowing through the filament. Dimmed LEDs still require full current to work so a standard dimmer has little to no usable effect on them.  I suspect we will see new dimmer switches for LEDs that communicate to a pwm controller in the bulb.

Three way LED bulbs don't require any special lamp/fixture hardware beyond what is required by a 3 way incandescent bulb. A normal bulb has two contacts. Current is either allowed to flow through or not. Three way bulbs have three contacts and two filaments of differing wattage. You can power the low watt filament, the high watt filament or both to get your three brightnesses. A three way LED bulb would work exactly the same way. It would have two constant current drivers and two discrete strings of LEDs. They even make units with many individual LEDs on one die.
Actually LEDs can be dimmed by current as well. I built a supplementary led fixture using Cree LEDs over my reef tank and have 1 ohm resistors that I use to measure current as I vary it at the potentiometer on the driver.  Running the chips at higher currents produces a lot of heat though so I used higher wattage LEDs running below their max current  


It's not the same variability which is why I said little to no usability. As soon as you cut current enough that your voltage drops below the LEDs forward voltage it cuts off completely. Usually LEDs are driven near their forward voltage rating meaning you can't vary it much. You have more room to dim it through current if you're overdriving the LED but that brings up other issues you don't want in a light you want to last a long time.

They currently make drop in LED bulbs that work with regular old light dimmers but it comes at a huge efficiency cost since they're building the voltage back up with a boost regulator. Maybe if they did it with lower voltage LEDs they wouldnt need the boost regulator.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 12:23:27 PM EDT
[#36]
Folks, look at a few packages.  Normal bulb ratings are 40, 60, 100W plus others in that general range.

The light output is around what an incandescent of that rating would generate and is listed in "lumens"

Both CFL and LED bulbs of this output range use in the order or 10-20W of power.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 12:29:21 PM EDT
[#37]
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I don't how to say this without sounding like an asshole. It's the difference between $90-$100 per year, per bulb and $15-$20 per year per bulb. Add in the cost of replacing the old bulb yearly and that disparity gets even larger.  This isn't a case of waiting 8 or 10 for a new furnace to pay for itself. LED bulbs pay for themselves in months, provide the same or better light, and require far less maintenance.

If you don't see the value in that worth the upfront cost, I don't know how much simpler it can be made.
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$20 light bulbs?

100 wat?'s more like it. That is fucking ridiculous.


I don't how to say this without sounding like an asshole. It's the difference between $90-$100 per year, per bulb and $15-$20 per year per bulb. Add in the cost of replacing the old bulb yearly and that disparity gets even larger.  This isn't a case of waiting 8 or 10 for a new furnace to pay for itself. LED bulbs pay for themselves in months, provide the same or better light, and require far less maintenance.

If you don't see the value in that worth the upfront cost, I don't know how much simpler it can be made.



The light from other-than-incandecents sucks. CFL obviously suck, but even LEDs suck, Less, sure, but nothing will replace the light a good Sylvania or GE incandescent bulb put out back in the good old days, when we lit our houses as we saw fit, and not as the government dictated.

The cost game is meaningless. I don't leave lights on for a year. I turn them on, and expect the spectrum and luminosity that is yet unmatched with these pale alternatives. If that costs me a whopping couple of bucks more over the course of a year, I don't care. The result is better.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 12:29:36 PM EDT
[#38]
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This Cree 100W produces the equivalent light of a 100W incandescent. It just uses 18W instead of 100W. So, it's 82% more efficient at producing the same light. It's like making your car 82% more fuel efficient with the flip of a switch.
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good plan.

I don't know why all these cfl and LED makers think that I want to replace 60 or 75 watt traditional bulbs with more efficient versions.

I want bright.



This.


This Cree 100W produces the equivalent light of a 100W incandescent. It just uses 18W instead of 100W. So, it's 82% more efficient at producing the same light. It's like making your car 82% more fuel efficient with the flip of a switch.

.....Your MATH is wrong.... Percent  does not mean you  what have referenced in above quote.
Typical 120 volt AC tungsten filament 100 WATT  bulb is around 2.6% efficient.
   Screw in 120VAC LED conversion are claimed around 12% luminous efficiency.
.
If the claims are correct,  12 % efficiency (divided by ) 2.6% efficiency =  460 percent MORE efficient.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 12:29:41 PM EDT
[#39]
I ordered bulbs from these guys http://www.newcandescent.com/ and I used them to replace the failed CFL bulbs my new house came with.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 12:30:29 PM EDT
[#40]

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It's not the same variability which is why I said little to no usability. As soon as you cut current enough that your voltage drops below the LEDs forward voltage it cuts off completely. Usually LEDs are driven near their forward voltage rating meaning you can't vary it much. You have more room to dim it through current if you're overdriving the LED but that brings up other issues you don't want in a light you want to last a long time.



They currently make drop in LED bulbs that work with regular old light dimmers but it comes at a huge efficiency cost since they're building the voltage back up with a boost regulator. Maybe if they did it with lower voltage LEDs they wouldnt need the boost regulator.

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I hate CFL, hence the reason I hated the anti-incandescent legislation.



Thank you Cree, for kicking ass and offer something I would have bought regardless.



Now, you just need to figure out how to do a 3-way bulb.




LEDs can be dimmed with a process called pulse width modulation (pwm). It's basically turning the diode on an off quickly which through persistence of vision makes it appear to be dim.  Regular dimmer switches are big variable resistors that limit current to the bulb. An incandescent light glows due to the amount of current flowing through the filament. Dimmed LEDs still require full current to work so a standard dimmer has little to no usable effect on them.  I suspect we will see new dimmer switches for LEDs that communicate to a pwm controller in the bulb.



Three way LED bulbs don't require any special lamp/fixture hardware beyond what is required by a 3 way incandescent bulb. A normal bulb has two contacts. Current is either allowed to flow through or not. Three way bulbs have three contacts and two filaments of differing wattage. You can power the low watt filament, the high watt filament or both to get your three brightnesses. A three way LED bulb would work exactly the same way. It would have two constant current drivers and two discrete strings of LEDs. They even make units with many individual LEDs on one die.
Actually LEDs can be dimmed by current as well. I built a supplementary led fixture using Cree LEDs over my reef tank and have 1 ohm resistors that I use to measure current as I vary it at the potentiometer on the driver.  Running the chips at higher currents produces a lot of heat though so I used higher wattage LEDs running below their max current  




It's not the same variability which is why I said little to no usability. As soon as you cut current enough that your voltage drops below the LEDs forward voltage it cuts off completely. Usually LEDs are driven near their forward voltage rating meaning you can't vary it much. You have more room to dim it through current if you're overdriving the LED but that brings up other issues you don't want in a light you want to last a long time.



They currently make drop in LED bulbs that work with regular old light dimmers but it comes at a huge efficiency cost since they're building the voltage back up with a boost regulator. Maybe if they did it with lower voltage LEDs they wouldnt need the boost regulator.

I can vary the brightness on my fixtures from just enough light to see the bottom of the tank to holy shit that's gonna fry something

 
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 12:33:03 PM EDT
[#41]
Incandescent bulbs are outlawed? Damn.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 12:34:38 PM EDT
[#42]
I just wish they would make a 3 way led bulb.

My lamps are all three way.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 12:36:30 PM EDT
[#43]
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I replaced 10 75-100W incans with CFLs in 2010 in fixtures that burn for hours every day. The only one I've had to change, the lamp got knocked over by the vacuum cleaner cord. YMMV
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$20 for a light bulb?



Yup, the LED light bulb will love you long time



no, it won't,  based on my experience with other "electronic" based lightbulbs. Mainly CFL's and a couple LEDs.  Those damn things have fragile circuit boards and with all the heat generated, the electronics fail. Sure, the LED might be good, and the poisonous mercury vapor mix in the little tube might be good for a millenia, but if the %@$@$@# bulb won't turn on, what good is it?



these new bulbs are a red herring. They are many many times the cost, don't seem to last any longer than good incandescents, and some of them are poisonous to dispose of.

I was  a HUGE proponent of CFL/LED lighting early one, but I got stung. I spent a crapload on lights that just die right away.  I'll wait til these bulbs can prove the actually last as long as they say they do.  Not based on estimates, but when these bulbs literally last ten years.


I replaced 10 75-100W incans with CFLs in 2010 in fixtures that burn for hours every day. The only one I've had to change, the lamp got knocked over by the vacuum cleaner cord. YMMV



as mentioned earlier,  I may have some electrical issues in my house that I don't know about. What kind of issues I have no idea. I wouldn't know what to look for...  our house was built in 97 and the only thing I've noticed is they used the cheapest, flimsiest light switches you've ever seen, I've had probably 12-13 of them fail. The case was cracked where they stabbed them in.  I think probably as they aged the side pressure on the wire cracked the case.

My suspicion is we jumped in HARD on the first round of CFL's. Bought for the whole house,  and maybe all the kinks weren't worked out. We bought a big lot on clearance at Costco or something and we worked through them for a long time. I have stopped used them.  I bought a boatload of normal lights when I knew they were going out of style. So we're on those.

the two LED lights I have are still running but noticeably dimmer.  they are not Cree.  We are not turn it on and leave it on people. our lights are constantly on and off on and off.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 12:39:26 PM EDT
[#44]

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Quoted:
The light from other-than-incandecents sucks. CFL obviously suck, but even LEDs suck, Less, sure, but nothing will replace the light a good Sylvania or GE incandescent bulb put out back in the good old days, when we lit our houses as we saw fit, and not as the government dictated.



The cost game is meaningless. I don't leave lights on for a year. I turn them on, and expect the spectrum and luminosity that is yet unmatched with these pale alternatives. If that costs me a whopping couple of bucks more over the course of a year, I don't care. The result is better.
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$20 light bulbs?



100 wat?'s more like it. That is fucking ridiculous.




I don't how to say this without sounding like an asshole. It's the difference between $90-$100 per year, per bulb and $15-$20 per year per bulb. Add in the cost of replacing the old bulb yearly and that disparity gets even larger.  This isn't a case of waiting 8 or 10 for a new furnace to pay for itself. LED bulbs pay for themselves in months, provide the same or better light, and require far less maintenance.



If you don't see the value in that worth the upfront cost, I don't know how much simpler it can be made.






The light from other-than-incandecents sucks. CFL obviously suck, but even LEDs suck, Less, sure, but nothing will replace the light a good Sylvania or GE incandescent bulb put out back in the good old days, when we lit our houses as we saw fit, and not as the government dictated.



The cost game is meaningless. I don't leave lights on for a year. I turn them on, and expect the spectrum and luminosity that is yet unmatched with these pale alternatives. If that costs me a whopping couple of bucks more over the course of a year, I don't care. The result is better.
Phillips has done some work with phosphors on led light bulbs that put out a light very similar to incandescent lights.  I've come to prefer the crisper light of LEDs

 
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 12:50:37 PM EDT
[#45]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



The light from other-than-incandecents sucks. CFL obviously suck, but even LEDs suck, Less, sure, but nothing will replace the light a good Sylvania or GE incandescent bulb put out back in the good old days, when we lit our houses as we saw fit, and not as the government dictated.

The cost game is meaningless. I don't leave lights on for a year. I turn them on, and expect the spectrum and luminosity that is yet unmatched with these pale alternatives. If that costs me a whopping couple of bucks more over the course of a year, I don't care. The result is better.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
$20 light bulbs?

100 wat?'s more like it. That is fucking ridiculous.


I don't how to say this without sounding like an asshole. It's the difference between $90-$100 per year, per bulb and $15-$20 per year per bulb. Add in the cost of replacing the old bulb yearly and that disparity gets even larger.  This isn't a case of waiting 8 or 10 for a new furnace to pay for itself. LED bulbs pay for themselves in months, provide the same or better light, and require far less maintenance.

If you don't see the value in that worth the upfront cost, I don't know how much simpler it can be made.



The light from other-than-incandecents sucks. CFL obviously suck, but even LEDs suck, Less, sure, but nothing will replace the light a good Sylvania or GE incandescent bulb put out back in the good old days, when we lit our houses as we saw fit, and not as the government dictated.

The cost game is meaningless. I don't leave lights on for a year. I turn them on, and expect the spectrum and luminosity that is yet unmatched with these pale alternatives. If that costs me a whopping couple of bucks more over the course of a year, I don't care. The result is better.


I disagree. The light from my Cree LEDs is indistinguishable from the incandescents I replaced. This is in regular table lamps with fabric shades. The led GU10s swapped in my kitchen track lighting are BETTER thasmn the 50w bulbs they replaced. My wife feels the same way.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 12:55:31 PM EDT
[#46]


Thanks OP.



I've been putting off replacing 100 watt bulbs because I couldn't find an LED 100w 5000k light. I just ordered from Home Depot and they will be here next week.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 1:03:12 PM EDT
[#47]
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I disagree. The light from my Cree LEDs is indistinguishable from the incandescents I replaced. This is in regular table lamps with fabric shades. The led GU10s swapped in my kitchen track lighting are BETTER thasmn the 50w bulbs they replaced. My wife feels the same way.
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Not sure on the brand, but the light in the nursery is some new-fangled LED I bought at Home Depot. It just isn't the warm light one gets from real bulbs. I'll give it points for longevity, sure, but outside of nightlight duties, I am unimpressed so far.

My flashlights? Sure. Weaponlights? Of course. Even certain low-use duties around the house (in the shed, for example), why not? But my living room? Not yet.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 1:06:52 PM EDT
[#48]
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Not sure on the brand, but the light in the nursery is some new-fangled LED I bought at Home Depot. It just isn't the warm light one gets from real bulbs. I'll give it points for longevity, sure, but outside of nightlight duties, I am unimpressed so far.

My flashlights? Sure. Weaponlights? Of course. Even certain low-use duties around the house (in the shed, for example), why not? But my living room? Not yet.
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I disagree. The light from my Cree LEDs is indistinguishable from the incandescents I replaced. This is in regular table lamps with fabric shades. The led GU10s swapped in my kitchen track lighting are BETTER thasmn the 50w bulbs they replaced. My wife feels the same way.



Not sure on the brand, but the light in the nursery is some new-fangled LED I bought at Home Depot. It just isn't the warm light one gets from real bulbs. I'll give it points for longevity, sure, but outside of nightlight duties, I am unimpressed so far.

My flashlights? Sure. Weaponlights? Of course. Even certain low-use duties around the house (in the shed, for example), why not? But my living room? Not yet.


The Cree bulbs in a different league than the others I've tried. Try one Cree 2700k bulb and I bet you'll change your opinion. Make sure you swap with the same comparable wattage. Depending on your locale they can be as low as $4.97.
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 1:11:05 PM EDT
[#49]
Link Posted: 3/13/2014 1:24:16 PM EDT
[#50]
yo, homie.  you didn't hear?  you can swipe yo EBT for LEDs now.  you're straight, cuz

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If I wanted to look it up I would have read the article.  I am on the FSA knowledge program, ain't nobody got time to read all that stuff.
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