My lower balljoints are pretty worn out on my 2000 Silverado 3/4ton. I'm looking to replace the entire lower control arm since it comes with new bushings and joint (I'm about to roll over 200k)  once the weather gets warmer and since I've never touched torsion bars before, I've been reading around to get some knowledge as too what to expect but coming up short on a good step by step. My understanding is I can remove wheel and disconnect shock and sway bar link and balljoint followed by removing tbar adjustment bolt. Then using a tbar tool tighten it up to remove keys and slowly release pressure. Once comepletely unloaded just pound it out from lower and unbolt the control arm and reverse with new part.
Now it seems that many have use c-clamps and balljoint presses instead of the actual tbar tool with success but it's been on half-tons and I'm sure it'd be pretty fricking dangerous on my 3/4 ton. The actual tool is something like $100 though and afaik none of the local shops have them to rent. Have any of you gone through this with any pointers or insight if I'm missing something? Being a plow truck it's pretty rusty under there and I'm sure it's going to fight me all the way so any help would be great

It'll take a damn stout c clamp to do it.   What usually happens is the frame of the c clamp twists or the screw bends and jams up in the crossmember.  BTDT at the shop I work at.  Now I use the right tool for the job.

Go to local GM dealer they will usually let you borrow the tool if you put some cash down. Spray with PB blaster for a few days ahead of time at both ends of the bar. Release tension on bars and whack the hell out of the bar. Chances are it is stuck as hell. Heat and a good air hammer make the shitty process much easier.

Just do the Ball Joints... got 241 k on my 94 in the Chicagoland area.  Still have one original lower ball joint. Replaced one upper and one lower cause they were loose, and one upper because someone already drilled out the rivets without me telling them too.  The bushings in the control arms don't go bad much, if at all(have a couple dozen plow truck costumers and probably 150 more with the same chassis from the early 90's into the 2000's and have yet to see a bushing go bad).  That all being said, rent the tool if you can, and snag a set of new bolts and nuts for the keys.  If they get seized or break off, drilling them is a bitch and most off the shelf bolts wont hold the tension of a loaded spring, let alone the weight of the chassis and a plow.

I made my own once, used a muffler clamp, piece of steel, and a hardened bolt. Wasn't pretty but it worked in a pinch.

That being said, go to Auto Zone or O'reilly's and see if they have a loaner.

If you're dead set on replacing the entire control arm, you don't need a tool to remove the torsion bars.  

Back out the bolt that puts the tension on the torsion bars until the key is resting on the part that the bolt threads into.  You don't need to take the bolt all the way out.  Make sure you count how many times the bolt turns so you can put it back to it's original setting.  Then take a floor jack, scissor jack, whatever you have and place it under the control arm near the ball joint, but make sure it's not touching it.  I use the scissor jack that came with my truck since there is better control.  You want it to be close, but not touching.  Then separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle. When you separate the ball joint from the lower control arm it will drop down onto the jack and then you can just lower the jack, and the control arm with it, which will take the rest of the load off the torsion bars.  If you want to use a tool anyway, you can probably rent one.

I would suggest just replacing the ball joints.  If they are press in, you can rent the ball joint press from Autozone (or most of the major parts places these days).  You'll still take the tension off of the torsion bar the same way I explained above, but you wont have to remove it.  To reinstall you just jack the lower control arm back up until the new ball joint is back in the steering knuckle.  Since you've taken most of the tension off the torsion bar you can lift the control arm up high enough without the whole truck lifting off the jack stands.

Seriously though, I replaced the bushing on my lower control arms back when my truck only have about 160,000 miles on it, and taking out the torsion bars was a pain.  They were rusted into the lower control arm.  And this is a Texas truck, not a truck driving in salty winters.

Best advice so far, I have done hundreds of ball joints in my 20+ years and only a handful of control arm bushings. If they are not bad don't make any more work for yourself than needed.