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Posted: 9/24/2010 6:45:11 AM EDT

[#1]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Tagged because my '01 chevy 5.3 is starting to smoke a little bit after 305K miles.

Well, a 5.3L from an '01 is a pretty different beast all together than a '66 Ford 289.

Run over to www.performancetrucks.net for info on building up the 5.3L.

Before I sold it, I was intending to do a basic engine overhaul, rings, seals, gaskets, bearings, 317 casting heads off of a 6.0L with a valve job, LS6 "yellow" springs, ARP studs, a 218/220 114LSA (Or maybe a 112 to be gentler on the springs) cam and a I-6 Trailblazer converter for a lockup around 2600-2800RPM, depending on HP. Support the mods with a Magnaflow muffler versus stock and a quality intake.

Throw that in front of a nicely built 4L65e (Hardened 5-pinion planetary, 'vette servo, deep pan, Raybestos Z-pack clutch packs, a 44,000GWV transmission cooler) and get a Blackbear Live tune from Justin @ BlackBear Performance and you'd have an extremely attitudinal 5.3L with great mileage and an extremely solid torque band.

Wait, you lost me.

What do I do if I drive like grandma and want something cheap to last another 300k?

Posted: 9/24/2010 6:49:51 AM EDT

[#2]

Quoted:
A 289 that is original to 1966 is going to have some very hardened valve seals especially from the years it drank leaded fuel.

More than likely, it needs valve seals. Burning that much oil is usually valves, not oil rings.

Eitherway, if oil rings are the only problem, buy a simple overhaul kit and rebuild it.

Let me say two things

A. Most mechanincs are no longer mechanics, they are parts changers whom upon occassion plug a car in to a computer to find out which sensor has gone bad. The art of overhaul, and even worse, diagnostics has been lost, especially electrical diagnostics. There are still guys out there that can diagnose and overhaul, but they are few and far between.

B. If you have a 66 small block Mustang, you should man up and learn how to do this. Buy a subscription to Car Craft and start hitting the books, there isn't much to this and the machine shop till do most of it.

Align hone, hot tank, cam bearings and freeze plugs for the block. Some new rings, grind the crank, mic it, then put in new rod and main bearings.

easy.

If kids were still playing with visible V8 models and not IPODS, going to your local parts store and buying a Fel Pro rebuild kit for a small block Motown motor would be common place again.

Easy job. Do it yourself. Feel the satisfaction of accomplishing something.

Sadly, you're very right.

Hell, it was lost even a generation ago.

I'm fortunate that my dad raised me under the hood of a car... I take it for granted sometimes, but when I have 3 grown men (one my age-ish, one slightly older, and another in his early sixties) who can only offer their cell phones as help when they saw the hood of my Mustang up––After peering in and offering to wiggle some wires, it makes me really appreciate the level of self-sufficiency that learning about something as commonplace as how to diagnose and repair and engine brings.

(For the record, at 10k feet the tired old 302 wasn't pulling in enough air. I had fuel, and I had spark; I let it breathe straight into the TB (removed the ram air configuration) and it was then able to start itself again and get us home.)

I'm only 21, but when my fiancee` and I decide to have kids, they'll be taught the same skills I was taught. I rely on no man.

Posted: 9/24/2010 7:01:01 AM EDT

[#3]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Tagged because my '01 chevy 5.3 is starting to smoke a little bit after 305K miles.

Well, a 5.3L from an '01 is a pretty different beast all together than a '66 Ford 289.

Run over to www.performancetrucks.net for info on building up the 5.3L.

Before I sold it, I was intending to do a basic engine overhaul, rings, seals, gaskets, bearings, 317 casting heads off of a 6.0L with a valve job, LS6 "yellow" springs, ARP studs, a 218/220 114LSA (Or maybe a 112 to be gentler on the springs) cam and a I-6 Trailblazer converter for a lockup around 2600-2800RPM, depending on HP. Support the mods with a Magnaflow muffler versus stock and a quality intake.

Throw that in front of a nicely built 4L65e (Hardened 5-pinion planetary, 'vette servo, deep pan, Raybestos Z-pack clutch packs, a 44,000GWV transmission cooler) and get a Blackbear Live tune from Justin @ BlackBear Performance and you'd have an extremely attitudinal 5.3L with great mileage and an extremely solid torque band.

Wait, you lost me.

What do I do if I drive like grandma and want something cheap to last another 300k?

Buy another 5.3L from a junkyard and run it?

Posted: 9/24/2010 7:04:38 AM EDT

[#4]

I rebuilt the 289 in my '67 Fairlane when I was 20. It's not hard. You may need to have the crankshaft turned down a little, probably hone the cylinders, replace the valves, seals and springs, etc. But seriouly, it's not rocket science. Good luck!

Posted: 9/24/2010 7:05:06 AM EDT

[#5]

Quoted:

Quoted:
What you have there is basically irreplaceable, if it is the original engine. The rebuild of that engine should be quite simple. Don't put many more miles on it. If the car is really nice or not it is important to keep the original engine in it.

THIS

A 289 non GT 2 barrel is not a big money car..
No different than a six banger...

Posted: 9/24/2010 7:05:41 AM EDT

[#6]

Quoted:

Quoted:
A 289 that is original to 1966 is going to have some very hardened valve seals especially from the years it drank leaded fuel.

More than likely, it needs valve seals. Burning that much oil is usually valves, not oil rings.

Eitherway, if oil rings are the only problem, buy a simple overhaul kit and rebuild it.

Let me say two things

A. Most mechanincs are no longer mechanics, they are parts changers whom upon occassion plug a car in to a computer to find out which sensor has gone bad. The art of overhaul, and even worse, diagnostics has been lost, especially electrical diagnostics. There are still guys out there that can diagnose and overhaul, but they are few and far between.

B. If you have a 66 small block Mustang, you should man up and learn how to do this. Buy a subscription to Car Craft and start hitting the books, there isn't much to this and the machine shop till do most of it.

Align hone, hot tank, cam bearings and freeze plugs for the block. Some new rings, grind the crank, mic it, then put in new rod and main bearings.

easy.

If kids were still playing with visible V8 models and not IPODS, going to your local parts store and buying a Fel Pro rebuild kit for a small block Motown motor would be common place again.

Easy job. Do it yourself. Feel the satisfaction of accomplishing something.

Sadly, you're very right.

Hell, it was lost even a generation ago.

I'm fortunate that my dad raised me under the hood of a car... I take it for granted sometimes, but when I have 3 grown men (one my age-ish, one slightly older, and another in his early sixties) who can only offer their cell phones as help when they saw the hood of my Mustang up––After peering in and offering to wiggle some wires, it makes me really appreciate the level of self-sufficiency that learning about something as commonplace as how to diagnose and repair and engine brings.

(For the record, at 10k feet the tired old 302 wasn't pulling in enough air. I had fuel, and I had spark; I let it breathe straight into the TB (removed the ram air configuration) and it was then able to start itself again and get us home.)

I'm only 21, but when my fiancee` and I decide to have kids, they'll be taught the same skills I was taught. I rely on no man.

I know droves of broke, unemployed men right now that have no skills. Highly paid for many years, for what who knows.

But it sucks when you have neither the skills nor the money to do anything for yourself.

When I was a kid, wild horses couldn't tear me away from cars, tools, guns, the woods. Now kids are useless as they have been raised by useless men.

You are right, we are going on multi-generational American male uselessness and it is scary and sad.

If the OP lived close, I'd do this overhaul for beer and company in my garage. I wouldn't even charge him if he promised to learn, and pass down to a youngster what he learned.

I am 37. The very last of the breed. I applaud you for being who you are at 21.

Posted: 9/24/2010 7:17:12 AM EDT

[#7]

If your not looking to upgrade the performance (perf mods will require a storm of other mods/rebuilds to maintain reliability), then just get a crate motor from Ford and stick it in there. Look in any Jegs or Summit book.

Keep the old motor if you think it will have any effect on future resale.

Simple really.

Posted: 9/24/2010 8:10:08 AM EDT

[#8]

Rebuild it yourself. It's a great learning exercise and very satisfying. I learned almost everything I know about cars and engines from rebuilding and restoring a 65 fastback.

Posted: 9/24/2010 8:30:26 AM EDT

[#9]

I rebuilt an engine once. If you don't have some apititude and/or a friend helping and some of the right tools, it could get really hard. But I think you could rent many of the tools are your local auto parts store. I would check around. My feeling is that if your Ferd is original and want to keep, it original I would rebuild the engine yourself, and keep the serial numbers the same.

Posted: 9/24/2010 8:38:16 AM EDT

[#10]

It's not your daily driver. You can afford to have it off the road for a while.

Renting (or even buying) a hoist and engine stand is pretty cheap.

The rebuild kit isn't a lot of money.

It's an EASY car to work on. Yanking the motor is a simple matter. They didn't stuff the engine compartment full of

garbage back in 66.

What's the resistance? Do the job yourself. You will take great satisfaction in doing it, too.

CJ

Posted: 9/24/2010 11:06:46 AM EDT

[#11]

If your looking to keep #'s origional, have it rebuilt If you don't care go for a crate engine ( 302, 351, etc,, )

Posted: 9/24/2010 11:25:35 AM EDT

[#12]

I have a full roller 351W from my '69 Mach 1 that I would sell you. I'd even swap it out for you in an afternoon. You'd have to come to my place though.

Posted: 9/24/2010 11:47:06 AM EDT

[#13]

Quoted:
First, FUCK JASPER.

Second, you should just do it yourself. Contrary to popular belief, rebuilding an engine is easy.

Posted: 9/24/2010 11:50:59 AM EDT

[#14]

Quoted:
$5000 for a Jasper rebuild? Fuck that noise!

Three words: Keith Craft Racing

http://www.keithcraft.com/ourengines1.html

My personal choice:
408/410 Street Crate Engine -
515HP/500 ft/lbs $8,175.00 Complete carb-pan

Pay the man his money and wait for Brown Santa's heavy lifting cousin to deliver it to your garage.

yeah?......so what about the rest of the drive train?

Posted: 9/24/2010 11:51:22 AM EDT

[#15]

Buy a new 302 and drop it in.

Posted: 9/24/2010 11:51:46 AM EDT

[#16]

Quoted:

First, FUCK JASPER.

Second, you should just do it yourself. Contrary to popular belief, rebuilding an engine is easy.

Why are you fucking Jasper Engines and Transmissions?

It's a very well run American company in Jasper, Indiana (about 30 miles from me). I know hundreds of people that work there.

They do quality engine and transmission work.

Posted: 9/24/2010 11:55:33 AM EDT

[#17]

Quoted:

Quoted:
First, FUCK JASPER.

Second, you should just do it yourself. Contrary to popular belief, rebuilding an engine is easy.

What's so funny? Rebuilding a small Ford IS easy. About as easy as it gets if you're not a fucking retard and can read a micrometer, a dial indicator and a torque wrench, perhaps a shop manual.

Buiding a race motor and drive train can be tricky, but a basic rebuild on a 289 can be done by any avearage pot smoking 15 year old.

Fuck Jasper is absolutely correct.

Posted: 9/24/2010 11:56:14 AM EDT

[#18]

Quoted:

Quoted:
First, FUCK JASPER.

Second, you should just do it yourself. Contrary to popular belief, rebuilding an engine is easy.

Why are you fucking Jasper Engines and Transmissions?

It's a very well run American company in Jasper, Indiana (about 30 miles from me). I know hundreds of people that work there.

They do quality engine and transmission work.

Jasper motors suck and always have. 50k mile motor.

Posted: 9/24/2010 11:56:55 AM EDT

[#19]

Quoted:
I have a 1966 Mustang, 289 engine, ~120k miles, that burns a quart of oil every 300-400 miles.
My local mechanic said it needs new rings. He doesn't want rebuild it –– he just wants to pull and ship the engine to Jasper Engines for a rebuild. The total of ~$5,000 seems too high for a stock engine.
The local Ford dealer doesn’t work on old cars.

In my younger days, it was easy to find a shade tree mechanic to rebuild an engine. Nowadays everyone I know goes to either a quick oil change place or a dealership.

This is a weekend car. Not a daily driver. But the burned oil smell is getting really bad.
Some smoke is coming from the oil filler cap. The engine also seems to be using some water.

Any recommendations for an engine treatment that will keep it going for another year or two? I’ve tried Restore Engine Treatment – didn’t seem to do anything.
Any recommendations for finding a local mechanic that will rebuild the engine?

Any other advice for dealing/fixing this?

I just rebuilt my 302 for my 72 Ford Bronco. Runs like a raped ape now much much more HP and torque than stock. You can rebuild it easily and much cheaper than you probably think. If you rebuilt it yourself the hard stuff is done by the machine shop. All you have to do is basically reassemble it and you can go from mild to wild.

Your next option might be buying a short block and if your heads intake etc are good to go use that stuff to finish off the motor and save a good bit of money.

5k seems a bit steep for stock engine stuff on an old 289.

Posted: 9/24/2010 11:58:12 AM EDT

[#20]

Quoted:
buy a new 289 engine and pop it in there....

thats about as simple of an engine / car to work on as you are going to find....

Link to a Long Block Motor

yeah but if it is a matching numbers mustang this decreases the value big time. I'd suggest that or a short block only if he had no other way or the block was shot.

Posted: 9/24/2010 12:02:09 PM EDT

[#21]

Quoted:

Quoted:
First, FUCK JASPER.

Second, you should just do it yourself. Contrary to popular belief, rebuilding an engine is easy.

Why are you fucking Jasper Engines and Transmissions?

It's a very well run American company in Jasper, Indiana (about 30 miles from me). I know hundreds of people that work there.

They do quality engine and transmission work.

If by "quality" you mean "three 350 SBC rebuilds that last about 4k miles" then sure.

Seriously, a 4 year old could rebuild a 350 SBC. There's no reason why they can't––especially for the price they charge, rebuild one that lasts for more than a few months.

Posted: 9/24/2010 12:05:57 PM EDT

[#22]

If you are building it back stock with all original stuff then rebuilding the 289 makes sense.
If you are just wanting a reliable daily driver then find a 302 to rebuild yourself or have it rebuilt and swap it out one weekend.

There could not be an easier engine to rebuild if you want to tackle it yourself.

You could rebuild it for $1000.00 ir so if you keep it stock.

I sold my '66 Mustang because I didn't have time to work on it to restore/rebuild it.
One of these days I will own another one though.

If you were close enough I would offer to help you rebuild it so the satisfaction would be yours.

BigDozer66

Posted: 9/24/2010 12:15:47 PM EDT

[#23]

Quoted:
Thanks for all the advice. As I feared, some oil additive ain't gonna fix it.
I'll look harder for a local mechanic.

How can I tell if the rings are shot? Seems like the symptoms would be the same for either valves or rings. This ain't my expertise.

I'll do little jobs like brakes and oil changes. But pulling or rebuilding this engine is over my head. I don't have the skills/aptitude required.
I did a timing chain on an old 302 Ford many years ago. I didn't get it back together properly and it leaked oil.

So I know that I want to get the timing chain replaced... anything else that the machine shop should do?

Is there any way to confirm this is the original engine?
This engine has an aluminum tag on the intake manifold that's stamped "289 C" "66 10" and a Ford logo.
When I bought the car, the guy was the 3rd or 4th owner. He was honest, and told me that he wasn't certain if the engine was OEM. I can't find a SN on the engine.

If you can do a brake job you can do a engine rebuild... I have rebuilt a lot of engines and for some reason brakes freak me out to work on.

If you have common mechanic's tools and a machinst you can trust you really can do it. There is a good mustang forum that I used when looking for ideas for my 302 build. I got most of my tips from Classic Bronco forum but the Mustang forum guys are really good people and you'll get tow things:

expert help on those small issues and you'll probably find someone willing to come help on weekends at least if not at night if they live close enough.

Posted: 9/24/2010 12:28:18 PM EDT

[#24]

Quoted:
$5000 for a Jasper rebuild? Fuck that noise!

Three words: Keith Craft Racing

http://www.keithcraft.com/ourengines1.html

My personal choice:
408/410 Street Crate Engine -
515HP/500 ft/lbs $8,175.00 Complete carb-pan

Pay the man his money and wait for Brown Santa's heavy lifting cousin to deliver it to your garage.

With 515 HP/500tq in a stock 60s mustang that had the 289 stock he'll need to rebuild more than just the engine. You put that motor in that car and it will leave 80% of the drive train at the first green light he comes across. A well built 289 will put out more HP and torque than he'd probably ever use as a weekend cruiser. And he won't have to strap a rubber gas bladder to the roof to enable him to go on a 100 mile drive.

Posted: 9/24/2010 12:43:49 PM EDT

[#25]

Quoted:

First, FUCK JASPER.

Second, you should just do it yourself. Contrary to popular belief, rebuilding an engine is easy.

This.

A 1966 289 should be a piece of cake to rebuild. No electronics or emissions bullshit.

Posted: 9/24/2010 12:44:54 PM EDT

[#26]

Quoted:

Quoted:
What you have there is basically irreplaceable, if it is the original engine. The rebuild of that engine should be quite simple. Don't put many more miles on it. If the car is really nice or not it is important to keep the original engine in it.

THIS

+1

I disagree. Unlike, say, GM, there is no inherent way of knowing which engine came with which Ford. The casting numbers on the block need to be the same, but there is NO way of telling if the engine has ever been replaced.

And 289s are super easy to rebuild.

Edit:
There is NO such thing as a numbers-matching 60s Mustang. And my last 1964-1/2 K-Code had a casting date of the month they switched from 5-bolt to 6-bolt bellhousings, which was about 8 months before the car was built.

I agree with this contrary to what I said earlier before I knew of the previous owners and possibility that the motor might already be non original. Were I the owner and I knew for sure that this were the original motor there are ways to show the provenance without matching numbers. And I'd want to be able to honestly say it is the matching motor. But I don't think the OP has any way to tell if it is in fact the original.

With all that said I'd still keep the 289 in it after a good rebuild. And depending on the body style yr the 289 is the perfect motor for the car.

Or the OP could go the route I have gone with my 72 Bronco and do a Resto mod. He could go to a pick a part place grab an engine out of a Explorer with a serpentine belt and with modern components and with a bit of metal work could toss the new motor in.

OP another route you could go is look on Craig's list in your area. there are always tons of Ford motors on there. You could go with a 302 block that has already been machined that someone was going to use on a project and get it cheap. I saw machine ford blocks in this area for as little as 150 bucks. Get an engine stand and take your time building it. If you got after market heads, aftermarket intake or whatever brand you like , forged pistons if you think you want to go wild later on.

If you have the patience you could probably get everything you need locally off craig's list for around 1K and than just put it back together. At least in this area there are always tons of people who either started a project and went a different route or started a project and can't afford it anymore and they need to dump the parts.

Posted: 9/24/2010 12:46:21 PM EDT

[#27]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Get some beer and a friend and pull the 289 and stick in the corner until you have the time/skill/$$$ to rebuild it properly. Find a low mileage junkyard 302 and throw it in there and drive it. As others have said, its not that complicated.

Ya right he is going to find a 302 that Ford quit building in '96 that has "low" miles

It can be done or with a bit of adapting he could get a 5.0 with a serpentine belt and pop it in there.

Posted: 9/24/2010 12:51:16 PM EDT

[#28]

Quoted:
I have a full roller 351W from my '69 Mach 1 that I would sell you. I'd even swap it out for you in an afternoon. You'd have to come to my place though.

How much you want for the 351W? I may be able to convince myself to put that in my 72 Bronco

Posted: 9/24/2010 12:58:20 PM EDT

[#29]

Quoted:

Quoted:
First, FUCK JASPER.

Second, you should just do it yourself. Contrary to popular belief, rebuilding an engine is easy.

What's so funny? Rebuilding a small Ford IS easy. About as easy as it gets if you're not a fucking retard and can read a micrometer, a dial indicator and a torque wrench, perhaps a shop manual.

Buiding a race motor and drive train can be tricky, but a basic rebuild on a 289 can be done by any avearage pot smoking 15 year old.

Fuck Jasper is absolutely correct.

Look I have been rebuilding engines of all types since some on this site were just a gleam in their daddy's eyes but I also understand a few things:

Not everyone wants to do this and it doesn't make them less of a man

Not everyone has a garage full of tools and the time to do a rebuild

Threads like this don't have to turn in to a I have a big dick and you too can be like me debacles.

Jasper is a good company that produces good motors for those who need them. Many other companies do as well.

I rebuilt my latest 302 because I wanted to do it but now that I am done I can safely say that it will probably be my last rebuild for more than a few reasons. And if I find a good project and want a high performance engine I wouldn't think twice about buying a motor from Jasper, Jegs, Ford Motor co racing etc.

Posted: 9/24/2010 1:07:47 PM EDT

[#30]

Quoted:

Quoted:
$5000 for a Jasper rebuild? Fuck that noise!

Three words: Keith Craft Racing

http://www.keithcraft.com/ourengines1.html

My personal choice:
408/410 Street Crate Engine -
515HP/500 ft/lbs $8,175.00 Complete carb-pan

Pay the man his money and wait for Brown Santa's heavy lifting cousin to deliver it to your garage.

With 515 HP/500tq in a stock 60s mustang that had the 289 stock he'll need to rebuild more than just the engine. You put that motor in that car and it will leave 80% of the drive train at the first green light he comes across. A well built 289 will put out more HP and torque than he'd probably ever use as a weekend cruiser. And he won't have to strap a rubber gas bladder to the roof to enable him to go on a 100 mile drive.

But his E-Penis would be this <––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––> big if he did.

BigDozer66

Posted: 9/24/2010 1:12:33 PM EDT

[#31]

Quoted:

Quoted:
First, FUCK JASPER.

Second, you should just do it yourself. Contrary to popular belief, rebuilding an engine is easy.

What's so funny? Rebuilding a small Ford IS easy. About as easy as it gets if you're not a fucking retard and can read a micrometer, a dial indicator and a torque wrench, perhaps a shop manual.

Buiding a race motor and drive train can be tricky, but a basic rebuild on a 289 can be done by any avearage pot smoking 15 year old.

Fuck Jasper is absolutely correct.

Look I have been rebuilding engines of all types since some on this site were just a gleam in their daddy's eyes but I also understand a few things:

Not everyone wants to do this and it doesn't make them less of a man

Not everyone has a garage full of tools and the time to do a rebuild

Threads like this don't have to turn in to a I have a big dick and you too can be like me debacles.

Jasper is a good company that produces good motors for those who need them. Many other companies do as well.

I rebuilt my latest 302 because I wanted to do it but now that I am done I can safely say that it will probably be my last rebuild for more than a few reasons. And if I find a good project and want a high performance engine I wouldn't think twice about buying a motor from Jasper, Jegs, Ford Motor co racing etc.

My "F*ck Jasper" comment is derived from poor experiences with a couple of their rebuilds, and similar experience by other wrench-turners who tried to save some time by having someone else do the rebuild, not crate engine builders all together.

Posted: 9/24/2010 1:14:12 PM EDT

[#32]

As with most project taken on at home, acquiring tools is an opportunity, not a cost...

STILL WANT PIC'S!!

Posted: 9/24/2010 1:18:10 PM EDT

[#33]

Unless there is a structural problem (crack), re-build it.
$5K for a engine rebuild is high.
Vocational/Tech school instructors do this on the side for way less.
You could probably find a shop yourself to do it for less than $5K.

By all means re-build it

Posted: 9/24/2010 1:26:01 PM EDT

[#34]

Quoted:
As with most project taken on at home, acquiring tools is an opportunity, not a cost...

STILL WANT PIC'S!!

Learned that the hard way...

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile

Posted: 9/24/2010 2:03:18 PM EDT

[#35]

Quoted:

Quoted:

$5000 for a Jasper rebuild? Fuck that noise!

Three words: Keith Craft Racing

http://www.keithcraft.com/ourengines1.html

My personal choice:

408/410 Street Crate Engine -

515HP/500 ft/lbs $8,175.00 Complete carb-pan

Pay the man his money and wait for Brown Santa's heavy lifting cousin to deliver it to your garage.

With 515 HP/500tq in a stock 60s mustang that had the 289 stock he'll need to rebuild more than just the engine. You put that motor in that car and it will leave 80% of the drive train at the first green light he comes across. A well built 289 will put out more HP and torque than he'd probably ever use as a weekend cruiser. And he won't have to strap a rubber gas bladder to the roof to enable him to go on a 100 mile drive.

It'll snap a u joint first, then the drive shaft or trans depending on how bad a shape they are in respectively. I doubt it would ever hook up well enough to trash the rear end, but at that age, maybe. The suggestion was more for the builder than that particular build, but I can attest to the quality of that combo.

Posted: 9/24/2010 2:14:52 PM EDT

[#36]

Quoted:

Quoted:
$5000 for a Jasper rebuild? Fuck that noise!

Three words: Keith Craft Racing

http://www.keithcraft.com/ourengines1.html

My personal choice:
408/410 Street Crate Engine -
515HP/500 ft/lbs $8,175.00 Complete carb-pan

Pay the man his money and wait for Brown Santa's heavy lifting cousin to deliver it to your garage.

With 515 HP/500tq in a stock 60s mustang that had the 289 stock he'll need to rebuild more than just the engine. You put that motor in that car and it will leave 80% of the drive train at the first green light he comes across. A well built 289 will put out more HP and torque than he'd probably ever use as a weekend cruiser. And he won't have to strap a rubber gas bladder to the roof to enable him to go on a 100 mile drive.

It'll snap a u joint first, then the drive shaft or trans depending on how bad a shape they are in respectively. I doubt it would ever hook up well enough to trash the rear end, but at that age, maybe. The suggestion was more for the builder than that particular build, but I can attest to the quality of that combo.

Those rear were tanks back in those cars. The trannies were likely pretty strong. My muncie can take a hell of a beating.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile

Posted: 9/24/2010 2:25:43 PM EDT

[#37]

Quoted:
EASY do-it-yourself job

ETA: don't forget to stab the distributor before you slap the oil pan back on. if you're anything like i was on my first build you'll drop the fucking oil pump shaft down there

22 fucking bolts

Posted: 9/24/2010 2:37:51 PM EDT

[#38]

Quoted:

Quoted:

$5000 for a Jasper rebuild? Fuck that noise!

Three words: Keith Craft Racing

http://www.keithcraft.com/ourengines1.html

My personal choice:

408/410 Street Crate Engine -

515HP/500 ft/lbs $8,175.00 Complete carb-pan

Pay the man his money and wait for Brown Santa's heavy lifting cousin to deliver it to your garage.

With 515 HP/500tq in a stock 60s mustang that had the 289 stock he'll need to rebuild more than just the engine. You put that motor in that car and it will leave 80% of the drive train at the first green light he comes across. A well built 289 will put out more HP and torque than he'd probably ever use as a weekend cruiser. And he won't have to strap a rubber gas bladder to the roof to enable him to go on a 100 mile drive.

It'll snap a u joint first, then the drive shaft or trans depending on how bad a shape they are in respectively. I doubt it would ever hook up well enough to trash the rear end, but at that age, maybe. The suggestion was more for the builder than that particular build, but I can attest to the quality of that combo.

Those rear were tanks back in those cars. The trannies were likely pretty strong. My muncie can take a hell of a beating.

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An original '66 could be either T10 or toploader. I'd trust the toploader more, but both are 45 years old and 500ft/lb of torque is more than I'd want to deal either.

Doing it right with 500+hp would require going through everything from the radiator to the tailpipe.

The OP would likely get his rocks off plenty with less than 300hp and it would require lots less work to do right.

Posted: 9/24/2010 3:03:59 PM EDT

[#39]

Quoted:
I have a 1966 Mustang, 289 engine, ~120k miles, that burns a quart of oil every 300-400 miles.
My local mechanic said it needs new rings. He doesn't want rebuild it –– he just wants to pull and ship the engine to Jasper Engines for a rebuild. The total of ~$5,000 seems too high for a stock engine.
The local Ford dealer doesn’t work on old cars.

In my younger days, it was easy to find a shade tree mechanic to rebuild an engine. Nowadays everyone I know goes to either a quick oil change place or a dealership.

This is a weekend car. Not a daily driver. But the burned oil smell is getting really bad.
Some smoke is coming from the oil filler cap. The engine also seems to be using some water.

Any recommendations for an engine treatment that will keep it going for another year or two? I’ve tried Restore Engine Treatment – didn’t seem to do anything.
Any recommendations for finding a local mechanic that will rebuild the engine?

Any other advice for dealing/fixing this?

Just out of curiosity, what oil are you running in it?

Posted: 9/24/2010 3:13:01 PM EDT

[#40]

Quoted:
What about pulling the heads, running a cylinder hone, and just doing new rings?

Is that do-able without a full engine pull and rebuild? (I'm thinking that taking out the cylinders and getting them off the camshaft might mean that you have to...)

Posted: 9/24/2010 3:25:07 PM EDT

[#41]

Quoted:

Quoted:
EASY do-it-yourself job

ETA: don't forget to stab the distributor before you slap the oil pan back on. if you're anything like i was on my first build you'll drop the fucking oil pump shaft down there

22 fucking bolts

I'm confused. The shaft comes up from the bottom and is sandwiched between a flange on the block and the pump. It won't fall out if you throw it off a cliff.

Posted: 9/24/2010 4:03:48 PM EDT

[#42]

Quoted:

Quoted:
EASY do-it-yourself job

ETA: don't forget to stab the distributor before you slap the oil pan back on. if you're anything like i was on my first build you'll drop the fucking oil pump shaft down there

22 fucking bolts

there is a trick to installing oil pump drive shafts from the top....

Posted: 9/24/2010 4:04:34 PM EDT

[#43]

Quoted:

Quoted:
EASY do-it-yourself job

ETA: don't forget to stab the distributor before you slap the oil pan back on. if you're anything like i was on my first build you'll drop the fucking oil pump shaft down there

22 fucking bolts

there is a trick to installing oil pump drive shafts from the top....

One can also do it right

Posted: 9/24/2010 4:16:38 PM EDT

[#44]

Quoted:

What about pulling the heads, running a cylinder hone, and just doing new rings?

Is that do-able without a full engine pull and rebuild? (I'm thinking that taking out the cylinders and getting them off the camshaft might mean that you have to...)

Posted: 9/24/2010 4:26:06 PM EDT

[#45]

$5000 is entirely to much to rebuild a stock sbf

Last 289 that went out the door of our shop all together cost $95x. Our cost not counting labor was probably $300-400.

Posted: 9/24/2010 4:46:18 PM EDT

[#46]

Quoted:

Quoted:
EASY do-it-yourself job

ETA: don't forget to stab the distributor before you slap the oil pan back on. if you're anything like i was on my first build you'll drop the fucking oil pump shaft down there

22 fucking bolts

there is a trick to installing oil pump drive shafts from the top....

One can also do it right

older ford oil pump drive shafts are a 1/4" hex....and are not held into the pump by anything the than the distributor shaft...they can be dropped in from the top.

Posted: 9/24/2010 4:57:32 PM EDT

[#47]

Quoted:

Quoted:
EASY do-it-yourself job

ETA: don't forget to stab the distributor before you slap the oil pan back on. if you're anything like i was on my first build you'll drop the fucking oil pump shaft down there

22 fucking bolts

there is a trick to installing oil pump drive shafts from the top....

One can also do it right

older ford oil pump drive shafts are a 1/4" hex....and are not held into the pump by anything the than the distributor shaft...they can be dropped in from the top.

Um no. The retainer will not allow it to go through the hole in the block from the top. You have to install it from the bottom before you put on the pump it if you want to do it correctly.

Posted: 9/24/2010 5:10:08 PM EDT

[#48]

Quoted:
I have a 1966 Mustang, 289 engine, ~120k miles, that burns a quart of oil every 300-400 miles.
My local mechanic said it needs new rings. He doesn't want rebuild it –– he just wants to pull and ship the engine to Jasper Engines for a rebuild. The total of ~$5,000 seems too high for a stock engine.
The local Ford dealer doesn’t work on old cars.

In my younger days, it was easy to find a shade tree mechanic to rebuild an engine. Nowadays everyone I know goes to either a quick oil change place or a dealership.

This is a weekend car. Not a daily driver. But the burned oil smell is getting really bad.
Some smoke is coming from the oil filler cap. The engine also seems to be using some water.

Any recommendations for an engine treatment that will keep it going for another year or two? I’ve tried Restore Engine Treatment – didn’t seem to do anything.
Any recommendations for finding a local mechanic that will rebuild the engine?

Any other advice for dealing/fixing this?

1. Check in the Cars & Bikes forum. I know Toiyabe66 has "some" experience with old Mustangs and a bit of a soft spot for them.
2. Is your PVC valve working correctly? I'm not sure a '66 will have one, you may want to add one yourself if it doesn't It will pull a small vacuum on your oil sump and pull the vapors into the intake manifold. You should even make a little more power.
3. If it's an original engine, you can still get the rebuilt motor and just pay the core charge. It's not like small block Fords are rare and expensive. Just put the 289 aside for later rebuilding.

Posted: 9/24/2010 5:40:33 PM EDT

[#49]

my advice is to give your car to me for proper disposal. and make sure you sign off onthe title.

pics?

Posted: 9/24/2010 6:17:11 PM EDT

[#50]

Quoted:

Quoted:
First, FUCK JASPER.

Second, you should just do it yourself. Contrary to popular belief, rebuilding an engine is easy.

To be fair, he didn't say anything about doing it right. There are many people out there that don't understand that there is a difference between have something like say a micrometer and being able to use it properly. Technique and experience do matter. I am an engineer. Though experience I have learned to let the people that measure stuff all day long, do the measuring.

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Fix an old Ford 289 engine that's burning oil? (Page 2 of 3)

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