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Posted: 6/17/2017 5:56:26 PM EDT
[#1]
One thing you can do to save some money is you dig the treach for the power line from the main breaker to the sub. If needed by code you can run the plastic conduit between the two. I personally like putting conduit in the ground, that way if something happens to the wires, you can just pull new wires through.
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Posted: 6/17/2017 7:14:01 PM EDT
[#2]
If you did the dirt work, and it was as straightforward as you say, 1200-1500 for a 50a sub and a 30a heater install. You buy the heater and lights.
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Posted: 6/17/2017 7:15:59 PM EDT
[#3]
And yeah, you want conduit . Dig a 20" deep ditch for it.
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Posted: 6/18/2017 8:40:29 AM EDT
[#4]
Thanks for the response. Also, is there any way I can get 240v to the shed without installing a sub panel? Again, I don't know much about home electrical. Not going to be doing it myself, just looking for some advice so I know what to expect when I have a pro out for an estimate.
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Posted: 6/18/2017 9:38:16 AM EDT
[#5]
The shed needs a sub-panel. The heater will have its own circuit and the lights and plugs will too. You can't get that on a single 240v line run to the shed.
So while you can run a 240V line to the shed off a newly installed 240v breaker, you still need a way to turn the power on and off in the shed and supply branches to the circuits there. |
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Posted: 6/18/2017 10:56:20 AM EDT
[#6]
Of you are wanting it done to code, you need the sub. I think.
The price break between just putting a single 20 or 30 amp 240 v heater circuit out there vs a 50a sub is pretty big, but then no lights/outlets....I think code lets you pull a single circuit out there with no sub required, but more than one needs a sub. If you are trying to save $, just have the sparky do the sub. You really could do the finish yourself. |
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Posted: 6/18/2017 1:13:17 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
And yeah, you want conduit . Dig a 20" deep ditch for it. |
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Posted: 6/18/2017 2:08:25 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Doesn't the NEC call for 2 feet? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
And yeah, you want conduit . Dig a 20" deep ditch for it. |
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Posted: 6/18/2017 2:58:36 PM EDT
[#9]
18 or 24 inches of ground cover. Thus a trench 2" deeper.
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Posted: 6/18/2017 4:53:03 PM EDT
[#10]
If the shed is NOT attached to the house it requires a sub panel, ground rods, etc. AND a 4-wire connection (Hot-Hot-Neutral-Ground)
If it IS attached you use a 4-wire run (Hot-Hot-Neutral-Ground) from the main panel in the house. 'Attaching' it with an exterior deck between the bildings makes it attached for most AHJs. |
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Posted: 6/18/2017 5:11:56 PM EDT
[#11]
That sound like a good plan. I do want to save money of course. When I have the electrician out, I will tell him I will do the trenching and outlet installation throughout the shed and I only want the panel intalled. Hopefully that will reduce the estimate a bit.
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Posted: 6/18/2017 5:14:14 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If the shed is NOT attached to the house it requires a sub panel, ground rods, etc. AND a 4-wire connection (Hot-Hot-Neutral-Ground) If it IS attached you use a 4-wire run (Hot-Hot-Neutral-Ground) from the main panel in the house. 'Attaching' it with an exterior deck between the bildings makes it attached for most AHJs. |
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Posted: 6/18/2017 5:24:37 PM EDT
[#13]
I did this for my main house upper floors and a detached garage. Basically put a panel in the garage, trenched for conduit, and ran a 100 amp feed with the aluminum service entrance cable you can get from Lowe's. The cable is rated for 100A, but I breaker'd down to 60A in my main panel. Get a 2-pole breaker for the main panel and some Na-Lox for the aluminum to copper connections. Drive a ground rod and get some copper cable to ground the new panel and that gets you just about there. Turn off the house power to make your connections and get a couple of NM/SE connectors for the panels.
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Posted: 6/19/2017 10:46:20 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
18 or 24 inches of ground cover. Thus a trench 2" deeper.  Attached File |
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Posted: 6/19/2017 3:01:49 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Refer to Table 300.5 - Minimum Cover Requirements in the 2017 NEC. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/293432/NEC-2017-300-5-234162.JPG |
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Posted: 6/19/2017 3:32:27 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Doesn't the NEC call for 2 feet? |
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Posted: 6/20/2017 2:26:09 PM EDT
[#17]
You can always use rigid metal.
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Posted: 6/20/2017 8:58:24 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You can always use rigid metal. |
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Posted: 6/20/2017 10:16:06 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That would get him out of digging much. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
You can always use rigid metal. |
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Posted: 6/21/2017 8:49:20 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You can always use rigid metal. |
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Posted: 6/21/2017 1:29:20 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Good idea. Like I said, it would only be about 14 feet, so I could run to H.D and prefab everything right in the store before bringing it home. |
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Posted: 6/25/2017 5:30:43 PM EDT
[#22]
Rent a manual threader.
You do need very good pipe clamping and a heavy thing to clamp to. I usually use my 700+ pound table saw. You can go up to about 2 inch with a new dies and plenty of cutting oil. The handles for my die holder are about 24 inches on each side. If HD sells it they may thread it. My old electrical supply house would thread any size they sold for a few bucks. If you plan correctly you can usually get away with a very few or even only one. One for the lateral run and one for the vertical to the meter box. [ETA 6/26: or service entrance on the building] |
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Posted: 6/25/2017 6:02:55 PM EDT
[#23]
Plan ahead - add a 240V wall outlet to your list for future needs. ( This is in addition to your heater power.)
A small welder, plasma cutter, serious air compressor etc. all sorts of tools you may only rent once in a blue moon, but its good to be able to power them when needed. |
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Posted: 6/25/2017 6:21:32 PM EDT
[#24]
I want to have about 6, 120 volt outlets in the shed plus the 240 volt outlet for the heater. |
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Posted: 6/25/2017 8:23:08 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Don't forget your lighting. They should be on a separate circuit from your outlets. |
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Posted: 6/26/2017 7:31:11 AM EDT
[#26]
Our climate is similar to yours, and I'd spring for LED's. I don't think I'll ever use fluorescents again.
BTW, good thread, as I'll be replacing a defective sub-panel in my shed and was wondering what to do! |
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Posted: 6/26/2017 1:12:04 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Don't forget your lighting. They should be on a separate circuit from your outlets. Quote HistoryQuoted:
I want to have about 6, 120 volt outlets in the shed plus the 240 volt outlet for the heater. It can be rather unnerving to having something spinning down right in front of you in the dark. |
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Posted: 6/26/2017 5:36:53 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Keeping them on separate circuits avoids standing in the dark while a tool spins down after a trip. It can be rather unnerving to having something spinning down right in front of you in the dark. |
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Posted: 6/27/2017 3:55:05 PM EDT
[#29]
Put in a larger conduit than you think you need.
It allows you to use Al stranded wire instead of copper. If you ever really needed to jack up the power you could pull copper in and go for more power. 14 feet is not bad. I had a single path to feed a 100 A sub-panel. It had an old galvanized steel water pipe and a black gas pipe running parallel at one end one inch apart. I had to order some copper cable to make the run since aluminum was to large to fit between the pipes. They also could not easily be altered without tearing up a lot of other stuff. 26 feet of 100 amp four conductor copper cable later. Over $100. At least the ground could be reduced size. A separate building requires a complete 'service entrance setup' with a pair of ground rods and still needs a 4-wire (Hot-Hot-Neutral-Ground) connection. |
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